Finished installing the GENTEX AUTO DIMMING MIRROR GENK41A with HOMELINK & Wire Cover today. I wired it to the overhead console--wiring up around the headliner down the front left post next to the airbag was a non-starter.
The following link above was certainly useful but lacked the NEW 2010 wiring fidelity. Here's some notes and pics to help you on a 2010 install:
http://pics.tdiclub.com/showphoto.php?photo=61373&cat=4694. In order to disassemble the upper center console I used my iPod battery changing tool -- real hard plastic with a sharp edge to wedge between the upper console pieces. Start with the speaker section up top...be easy and it will pop right out by carefully wedging. After that section comes out the sunroof knob and map light section comes next. Once that is off there are two screws that must be removed. Now the entire assembly can be removed. The microphone wire harness, the map light harness, and the sunroof harness plugs will all need to be uncoupled so you can work. I spliced into the "hot" (RED/BLUE STRIPE) wire on the map light. For the ignition wire I used the (GREEN/YELLOW STRIPE) wire routed in the wire bundle forward and not associated with any of the connections disconnected (I found it by trail and error on another cannon plug). Regardless, worked perfect.
The supplied wire bundle I routed from the window aft (the two separate connections and the ground). You can easily see a gap in the headliner -- I had to wedge a pencil between the window and headliner to enable routing room aft. Once inside the headliner I used a tool to reach in and snare an end and pull it into the wiring area. After I wired it up I used wire ties and stored the excess wire away from the area immediately around the panel (nice little area tucked up and to the right). Ops checked to see if it works as wired then connected all the connectors. Next, I screwed/and secured the panels back together and in-place.
The mirror install was easy. Popped the old mirror off first. That leaves a beefy metal "L" bracket. Next, rotate the bracket clockwise that hooks to your windshield and it pops right into your hand. The $18 aluminum machined bracket comes with a rivet and allen tap screw (well worth the ALPHA PAPA or axx pain of potentially cracking/breaking your windsheild). The adapter slides over the existing window bracket and the rivet goes into the hole in the bracket. Too keep the rivet from falling out lay a piece of scotch tape across the adapter covering the rivet. Make sure you remove the Torq screw on your new rear-view mirror. Swap it with the allen head screw they provide---it has a blunt end vs the factory screw which has a point. You need a blunt end because as you tighten it down against the rivet it is more stable and secure. Slide the mirror down over the bracket, tighten the allen head screw, and then connect the square connection to the forward (non-mirror side) part of the rear-view mirror. You can add some shrink wrap from the wire bundle from the connection to the top of the plastic wire cover if you want. Wire tie it to the post, install the plastic wire cover from the window bracket to the headliner, and you are done except for programming your garage door opener.
It looks good and is fully functional. I ops tested the sensor to ensure it would darken and it worked as advertised. Since I had to chase down wires this project took longer than planned --- total 5 hours. With your knowledge of the wiring it should take no more than about 2 hours. Bottom line be patient cause you DO NOT want to bung up any of the new interior fixtures, wiring, etc. Let me know if this helps.