Anyone install the Auto-Dim Rear View mirror?

av8r

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2010 Jetta TDI (#23rd in prod), Black. 2014 Audi Q5 TDI, Black
Sweet! Ordered mine tonight. $169 + $18 bracket. Great post.....will let you know how the install goes when I get it.
 

av8r

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2010 Jetta TDI (#23rd in prod), Black. 2014 Audi Q5 TDI, Black
Rear-view mirror install notes/pics on 2010 Jetta TDI

Finished installing the GENTEX AUTO DIMMING MIRROR GENK41A with HOMELINK & Wire Cover today. I wired it to the overhead console--wiring up around the headliner down the front left post next to the airbag was a non-starter.

For the install, I was going to refer to this thread on another forum http://www.golfmkv.com/forums/showthread.php?p=655901, minus pulling the factory windshield button. I'll also use a bit of heat shrink to hide the exposed part of the wiring (white stripe on the wiring that is).
The following link above was certainly useful but lacked the NEW 2010 wiring fidelity. Here's some notes and pics to help you on a 2010 install: http://pics.tdiclub.com/showphoto.php?photo=61373&cat=4694. In order to disassemble the upper center console I used my iPod battery changing tool -- real hard plastic with a sharp edge to wedge between the upper console pieces. Start with the speaker section up top...be easy and it will pop right out by carefully wedging. After that section comes out the sunroof knob and map light section comes next. Once that is off there are two screws that must be removed. Now the entire assembly can be removed. The microphone wire harness, the map light harness, and the sunroof harness plugs will all need to be uncoupled so you can work. I spliced into the "hot" (RED/BLUE STRIPE) wire on the map light. For the ignition wire I used the (GREEN/YELLOW STRIPE) wire routed in the wire bundle forward and not associated with any of the connections disconnected (I found it by trail and error on another cannon plug). Regardless, worked perfect.

The supplied wire bundle I routed from the window aft (the two separate connections and the ground). You can easily see a gap in the headliner -- I had to wedge a pencil between the window and headliner to enable routing room aft. Once inside the headliner I used a tool to reach in and snare an end and pull it into the wiring area. After I wired it up I used wire ties and stored the excess wire away from the area immediately around the panel (nice little area tucked up and to the right). Ops checked to see if it works as wired then connected all the connectors. Next, I screwed/and secured the panels back together and in-place.

The mirror install was easy. Popped the old mirror off first. That leaves a beefy metal "L" bracket. Next, rotate the bracket clockwise that hooks to your windshield and it pops right into your hand. The $18 aluminum machined bracket comes with a rivet and allen tap screw (well worth the ALPHA PAPA or axx pain of potentially cracking/breaking your windsheild). The adapter slides over the existing window bracket and the rivet goes into the hole in the bracket. Too keep the rivet from falling out lay a piece of scotch tape across the adapter covering the rivet. Make sure you remove the Torq screw on your new rear-view mirror. Swap it with the allen head screw they provide---it has a blunt end vs the factory screw which has a point. You need a blunt end because as you tighten it down against the rivet it is more stable and secure. Slide the mirror down over the bracket, tighten the allen head screw, and then connect the square connection to the forward (non-mirror side) part of the rear-view mirror. You can add some shrink wrap from the wire bundle from the connection to the top of the plastic wire cover if you want. Wire tie it to the post, install the plastic wire cover from the window bracket to the headliner, and you are done except for programming your garage door opener.

It looks good and is fully functional. I ops tested the sensor to ensure it would darken and it worked as advertised. Since I had to chase down wires this project took longer than planned --- total 5 hours. With your knowledge of the wiring it should take no more than about 2 hours. Bottom line be patient cause you DO NOT want to bung up any of the new interior fixtures, wiring, etc. Let me know if this helps.
 
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HeAvYfUeL

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Oct 7, 2005
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Gatineau,CAN
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2009, Golf Variant, DSG
I was driving a Dodge Grand Caravan this week, which is basicly a cheaper version of an vw routan. This van also has an auto-dimming mirror. Now, this makes me think. Will this fit on a 2009-2010 jetta or golf ? It's a vw right ? Let me know what you think guys.
 

D-Cell_Mekanick

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Joined
May 23, 2009
Location
Sandwich, IL
TDI
2015 Honda Civic SE
Well the wife got me the mirror for X-Mas! It showed up yesterday, now just have to wait till after X-Mas to install it. I'm excited that I will be able to get rid of that darn garage door opener!
 

D-Cell_Mekanick

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May 23, 2009
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Sandwich, IL
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2015 Honda Civic SE
Damn it! She spent $10 more than she had to. Oh well, I'm over it. Especially since I'm not suposed to know about it yet. She ordered it online, but forgot I get our email via iPhone. So I saw the invoice, even though she thaught she would delete it before I could see it. Silly woman, lol.
 

gpraceman

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Joined
Nov 18, 2009
Location
Highlands Ranch, CO
TDI
2010 Jetta TDI
D-Cell_Mekanick said:
Damn it! She spent $10 more than she had to.
Seems to always happen once you buy something. I doubt they have a price guarantee.

HeAvYfUeL said:
Will this fit on a 2009-2010 jetta or golf ? It's a vw right ? Let me know what you think guys.
These mirrors will work in any of the VW's, as far as I know. You do need the VW mounting adapter, unless you want to risk removing the bracket glued to the windshield and glue on the regular bracket for this mirror. To me, $18 for the little metal adapter is more than worth it not to have to deal with that. The other hurdle is powering the unit. You can tap into the overhead console or run a wire down to the fuse box.
 

10TDI

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Dec 14, 2009
Location
Westminster, CO
TDI
2010 Jetta TDI
PoundSand said:
$159 right now for those interested...
Sweet! Just picked this up. Hopefully it's an easy installation. I'm kind of worried about routing through the headliner, so we'll see how that goes.
 

gpraceman

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Joined
Nov 18, 2009
Location
Highlands Ranch, CO
TDI
2010 Jetta TDI
I just got the wife's mirror installed. It looks and works very good! The following is a bit of a repeat of av8r's install description, but I wanted to summarize how I got it installed for our TDI, which doesn't have a sunroof.

The old mirror popped off the post with a bit of a pull. Then a twist clockwise on the post removed that, leaving the button on the windshield. I spray painted the horseshoe shaped VW/Audi adapter black and then slipped it over the windshield button. A little piece of scotch tape secured the "rivet" that came with the adapter into the hole of the windshield button. The head of this rivet later serves as a surface for the allen head screw from the adapter (replaces the screw that came with the Gentex mirror) to secure the mirror to the windshield.

I used a credit card to pop out the speaker portion of the overhead panel. Then used a Torx T20 bit to help remove the map light panel. I was only able to release one of the wiring connectors going to the map light panel. I couldn't figure out how the second one released, so I carefully popped the little microphone unit out of the map light panel.

Trying to get the wires into the headliner was a bit of a pain. I used a pencil, like av8r, to help give some space between the windshield and headliner to feed the wire ends in. The annoying part was trying to get the wire ends in without catching on the metal lip supporting the top of the windshield. I then used a little hook tool that I got as part of a set of probe tools from Harbor Freight, http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=1816 to help pull the wire ends through the rest of the way.

I was afraid the wiring in the overhead panel would be a lot different than av8r's photos, since we don't have the sunroof. But, other than there being one less wiring harness, it looks the same. So, I wired it up just the same as he described. It means that homelink is always active, but we actually use our garage for parking our cars, so that shouldn't be an issue. It looks like av8r drilled a new hole to secure the ground wire to. I just used one of the existing torx screws holding the rest of the overhead console to the roof.

I plugged in the wire to the back of the mirror and then slid the mirror over the adapter piece. It secured on with a 3/32" allen head wrench. I pulled out most of the slack in the wires (leave a little slack so the mirror position can be adjusted), zip tied the excess and shoved it in the void to the right side of the overhead panel. Then I pulled the two pieces of the wire cover apart and put the mirror end on first. The little wings hook into the opening in the top of the mirror mount. Then I popped on the top piece of the wire cover and slid it all the way up. I then buttoned the overhead panel back up.

Programming homelink wasn't too difficult. So now, we can get rid of the clicker and my wife gets the auto dimming mirror that she also wanted. Killed two birds with one stone.
 
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av8r

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2010 Jetta TDI (#23rd in prod), Black. 2014 Audi Q5 TDI, Black
gpraceman, outstanding...glad it worked for you too.
 

10TDI

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Dec 14, 2009
Location
Westminster, CO
TDI
2010 Jetta TDI
Thanks to both av8r and gpraceman, I should get my Gentex w/ HomeLink in pretty soon and I have a feeling it'll be much much easier with the instructions they posted here. :)
 

k2curt

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Joined
Sep 8, 2009
Location
Cleveland, Ohio
TDI
2010 Golf TDI!
I just ordered the auto dimming mirror with home link and with these helpful instructions should have no trouble installing it. Thanks to all. If you use the coupon code 5off when checking out you will get 5% off the order and currently there is free shipping.
 

ddurandd

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Joined
Mar 29, 2009
Location
Roswell, GA
TDI
Former owner of 2009 Jetta TDI - Blue Graphite Metallic w/ Factory Navigation
2009 Install

I just installed the Gentex mirror on my 2009 Sedan. First of all, thanks av8r and gpraceman for your write ups. They were a BIG help. I think I am going to really like this mirror. I did notice a couple of differences in the wiring on my 2009 versus the 2010's that I think would be helpful, too.

My car did not have a switched Green/Yellow striped wire - at least I couldn't find it. Also, my Red/Blue stripe wire did not stay hot all the time. After about 5 mins or after I used the remote to lock the car, the Red/Blue went to 0 volts. So in essence, my Red/Blue actually was a good switched source. (There are two 12V wires on the mirror because one is for the dimming of the mirror itself and the other is for the Homelink feature.)

I never could find a permanent "hot" source and I also did not want to run a wire down the A pillar. I ended up attaching both wires to the Red/Blue wire. I tested the car overnight and it did not "forget" the garage door codes without power. So hopefully this will work out.

One more thing, I had some trouble getting a good ground connection from the existing screws (yes, I did try the ones that looked like they are going into metal). I ended up drilling my own ground connection to some exposed metal in the overhead console.
 

gpraceman

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Nov 18, 2009
Location
Highlands Ranch, CO
TDI
2010 Jetta TDI
That is interesting on the wiring. I found two hot leads on the map light harness, one of them being the Red/Blue wire. I assume one hot for each of the map lights. Not sure if they shut off eventually like you describe. But maybe that is to keep you from leaving a light on accidentally and draining your battery. I might test this out on my wife's 2010. If the power does go off after a time, then maybe the homelink programming is saved in flash memory, so a loss of power will not cause it to forget. Probably so, if you are not losing the homelink programming.

On the Green/Yellow wire, on the 2010, it was a dark green color but I really could not tell the color of the stripe. I did use a tester to verify that it was a switched wire before tapping into it. It was on a different wire bundle than the map light harness. I'm not sure what that harness really goes to, as I could not see where either end terminates.
 
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D-Cell_Mekanick

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Sandwich, IL
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2015 Honda Civic SE
What a pain in the butt. I got it installed, just need to program the door opener. ddurandd you are correct about the wiring, my '06 is the same as your '09 in regards to the timeout feature of the red w/blue stripe wire. It timed out right around 5 minutes as well. One thing I did do was use the red w/black stripe wire for the sunroof for my constant hot. Now when I wait for the time-out for the auto dim function, then hit the door opener button the auto dim will return to active for another 5 minutes or so. If that makes any sense?

To recap, use the red w/black stripe wire of the sunroof for your constant hot feed. Then use the red w/blue stripe wire of the dome lights for the switched feed.

Knowing that in the begining, would have saved me about 30-45 minutes of carefully probing wires with a tiny needle and my Fluke 87. Start to finish took me bout 2 1/2 hrs. Next install should be less than 2 hours easy.

EDIT: just programmed the door opener, works like a charm, now to see what kind of range it has????? maybe tomorrow!

EDIT EDIT: tested out the range on the way back from Target, had to buy some formula. Anyways, range is much better than the standard garage door opener! I'm a happy camper, at least for now.
 
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D-Cell_Mekanick

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2015 Honda Civic SE
gpraceman said:
I just checked on my wife's 2010 and after 5 mins homelink still had power to it. It seems strange that the 2010 would be different than the 2009 in that respect.

As an aside, you mention using your multimeter to test out the wires. I used a circuit tester like the one linked below. It is very inexpensive and handy for such projects. The sharp point sticks into the wire and clamp goes to the car's body. If the wire is hot, the tester lights up. Maybe this tip will help those without a multimeter.

http://www.amazon.com/Advanced-Tool-Design-ATD-5513-Circuit/dp/B000M5ZWBA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1262675079&sr=8-2
Do yourself a favor and throw that test light away! Or atleast dont ever use it on your car. They pull to much power and can set off your air bags if probing the wrong wire, or damage electronics.

My old boss told me, as I unloaded my tool box into the shop, when I first started working on cars. " If I see you use that test light on a car newer than 1986(?) it will go in the garbage, buy a meter". Well I bought one, and have used one ever since.

By the way I still have my nice SnapOn test light, hardly ever been used. Don't get me wrong, there is a time and place for a testlight. But probing unknown wires trying to find a switched and a constant hot, isn't one of them.
 

gpraceman

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Highlands Ranch, CO
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2010 Jetta TDI
D-Cell_Mekanick said:
Do yourself a favor and throw that test light away! Or atleast dont ever use it on your car. They pull to much power and can set off your air bags if probing the wrong wire, or damage electronics.

My old boss told me, as I unloaded my tool box into the shop, when I first started working on cars. " If I see you use that test light on a car newer than 1986(?) it will go in the garbage, buy a meter". Well I bought one, and have used one ever since.

By the way I still have my nice SnapOn test light, hardly ever been used. Don't get me wrong, there is a time and place for a testlight. But probing unknown wires trying to find a switched and a constant hot, isn't one of them.
I learn something new everyday. Never knew about the airbag issue. That would be quite an unpleasant surprise.:eek:
 
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maloosheck

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D-Cell_Mekanick said:
Do yourself a favor and throw that test light away! Or atleast dont ever use it on your car. They pull to much power and can set off your air bags if probing the wrong wire, or damage electronics.

My old boss told me, as I unloaded my tool box into the shop, when I first started working on cars. " If I see you use that test light on a car newer than 1986(?) it will go in the garbage, buy a meter". Well I bought one, and have used one ever since.
Do yourself a favour and get the service manual with wiring diagrams. All the wires are colour coded and there is no need for a meter at all. Plus you will not end up connecting anything to the wire that is hot at the moment when you connected the meter just because you had the doors open at that moment.

Do not get me wrong: meter is ok, but it does not give the insight you need when messing with wiring of contemporary vehicles.
 

D-Cell_Mekanick

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2015 Honda Civic SE
maloosheck said:
Do yourself a favour and get the service manual with wiring diagrams. All the wires are colour coded and there is no need for a meter at all. Plus you will not end up connecting anything to the wire that is hot at the moment when you connected the meter just because you had the doors open at that moment.

Do not get me wrong: meter is ok, but it does not give the insight you need when messing with wiring of contemporary vehicles.
I will retract part of my statement above you quoted. The part being about the testlight. Apearently with the introduction of the L.E.D. testlight, an L.E.D. testlight can be used. But usig a DVOM is the way to go, has its own power source.

As for investing in a manual, well I do have one. At the time I was using the information that was provided by ddrandd and graceman, I was also verifying the wire voltage and timeout features. After further reviewing what I found I consulted with the VJ06 and after 10 minutes of trying to figure out the way they have thier prints set up, I gave up and went with what I had. If I get some time in the future I will go through the book, all is good for now.
 

bulldog321

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Aug 19, 2009
Location
Florida
TDI
2010 Jetta TDI
I just ordered the mirror. :)

I noticed in the install pictures, there is "wire taps" that clamp onto the existing wires. I was wondering if those taps came with the mirror or if I need to buy them separately.

Thanks
 

gpraceman

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Joined
Nov 18, 2009
Location
Highlands Ranch, CO
TDI
2010 Jetta TDI
bulldog321 said:
I noticed in the install pictures, there is "wire taps" that clamp onto the existing wires. I was wondering if those taps came with the mirror or if I need to buy them separately.
Those come with the mirror. They have two red ones and two blue ones. Each color is meant for a different wire gauge. I used the red ones like shown in av8r's photos. Put the taps on the appropriate overhead wires and then just plug the mirror's wires onto the taps.
 

bulldog321

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Aug 19, 2009
Location
Florida
TDI
2010 Jetta TDI
In the 2010, I noticed the map light will turn off about 15 minutes when the ignition is turned off or the map light is turned on without the car running.

I always found it weird that VW decided to shut off the maps light off, but allows the headlights to stay on indefinitely.
 

D-Cell_Mekanick

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May 23, 2009
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Sandwich, IL
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2015 Honda Civic SE
I believe I read that the controllers are fed power for 15 minutes then are shut off. If anything is touched, like unlocking the door, they will power back for another 15 mins. That's how I read it, but do admit I did not read it completely, so I may has missed something.
 

gpraceman

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Joined
Nov 18, 2009
Location
Highlands Ranch, CO
TDI
2010 Jetta TDI
bulldog321 said:
In the 2010, I noticed the map light will turn off about 15 minutes when the ignition is turned off or the map light is turned on without the car running.
Whether the "hot" wire turns off after 5 or 15 mins, homelink is still retaining its programming. That is good for the folks that park their cars in their driveways instead of their garages.

bulldog321 said:
I always found it weird that VW decided to shut off the maps light off, but allows the headlights to stay on indefinitely.
I concur with that. My wife has complained about not having auto off headlights. she had it on her base model 2000 Toyota Sienna. Seems like that should be a standard feature these days.
 

10TDI

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Dec 14, 2009
Location
Westminster, CO
TDI
2010 Jetta TDI
av8r said:
Finished installing the GENTEX AUTO DIMMING MIRROR GENK41A with HOMELINK & Wire Cover today. I wired it to the overhead console--wiring up around the headliner down the front left post next to the airbag was a non-starter.


The following link above was certainly useful but lacked the NEW 2010 wiring fidelity. Here's some notes and pics to help you on a 2010 install: http://pics.tdiclub.com/showphoto.php?photo=61373&cat=4694. In order to disassemble the upper center console I used my iPod battery changing tool -- real hard plastic with a sharp edge to wedge between the upper console pieces. Start with the speaker section up top...be easy and it will pop right out by carefully wedging. After that section comes out the sunroof knob and map light section comes next. Once that is off there are two screws that must be removed. Now the entire assembly can be removed. The microphone wire harness, the map light harness, and the sunroof harness plugs will all need to be uncoupled so you can work. I spliced into the "hot" (RED/BLUE STRIPE) wire on the map light. For the ignition wire I used the (GREEN/YELLOW STRIPE) wire routed in the wire bundle forward and not associated with any of the connections disconnected (I found it by trail and error on another cannon plug). Regardless, worked perfect.

The supplied wire bundle I routed from the window aft (the two separate connections and the ground). You can easily see a gap in the headliner -- I had to wedge a pencil between the window and headliner to enable routing room aft. Once inside the headliner I used a tool to reach in and snare an end and pull it into the wiring area. After I wired it up I used wire ties and stored the excess wire away from the area immediately around the panel (nice little area tucked up and to the right). Ops checked to see if it works as wired then connected all the connectors. Next, I screwed/and secured the panels back together and in-place.

The mirror install was easy. Popped the old mirror off first. That leaves a beefy metal "L" bracket. Next, rotate the bracket clockwise that hooks to your windshield and it pops right into your hand. The $18 aluminum machined bracket comes with a rivet and allen tap screw (well worth the ALPHA PAPA or axx pain of potentially cracking/breaking your windsheild). The adapter slides over the existing window bracket and the rivet goes into the hole in the bracket. Too keep the rivet from falling out lay a piece of scotch tape across the adapter covering the rivet. Make sure you remove the Torq screw on your new rear-view mirror. Swap it with the allen head screw they provide---it has a blunt end vs the factory screw which has a point. You need a blunt end because as you tighten it down against the rivet it is more stable and secure. Slide the mirror down over the bracket, tighten the allen head screw, and then connect the square connection to the forward (non-mirror side) part of the rear-view mirror. You can add some shrink wrap from the wire bundle from the connection to the top of the plastic wire cover if you want. Wire tie it to the post, install the plastic wire cover from the window bracket to the headliner, and you are done except for programming your garage door opener.

It looks good and is fully functional. I ops tested the sensor to ensure it would darken and it worked as advertised. Since I had to chase down wires this project took longer than planned --- total 5 hours. With your knowledge of the wiring it should take no more than about 2 hours. Bottom line be patient cause you DO NOT want to bung up any of the new interior fixtures, wiring, etc. Let me know if this helps.
I'm trying to do this install right now, but have run into a few problems. After getting the piece that has the sunroof dial and all that out, I saw the other two screws you talked about to remove the rest of the stuff in the way and removed them. However the whole assembly isn't coming out. When I say whole assembly, I mean all of the plastic up there. Not sure if those screws are supposed to remove that.

Anyways, even though nothing came out when I removed the last 2 screws I went ahead and figured out how to run the wires through the headliner to that wiring area so that's all set, however now I can't find the green/yellow wire you were talking about. I think I see the red/blue one in that main bundle that goes around, but am afraid to splice into that until I find the green/yellow one. Do you have any pics to better illustrate where the wires you specified are?

I think after I get these wires spliced it should be done as I've already pulled the old mirror off and just need to attach the new one and get it plugged in.
 
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