Anyone have any personal experience with Liqui Moly Diesel Particulate Filter Protector?

Lightflyer1

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If the car is operating properly I don't see where this helps much if any. The most it can do is help it burn the soot (which the regen cycle does anyway), but the ash produced from this will still be the same as if you didn't use anything at all. When it is full of ash it needs replacing or cleaning. As long as everything is working why suffer the expense? If it isn't working you should really get it repaired and not this. The Extended Emissions Warranty should handle any emissions items like this.
 

ApriliaNut

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Understood and agree somewhat. After perusing some YT videos about the subject, it's for those of us who do more in town driving as opposed to long freeway jaunts. Evidently the system doesn't get up to optimal temps in town, so what this does is give it a "boost" to get to the temp quicker where the regen process starts, so the regen process will be more optimal in around town driving.

BTW you're in my old neck of the woods, as I went to UTA back in the Jim Bertelson, Steve Wooster days when the Longhorns ruled the roost in the national standings. Since I've been gone nigh on over 40 years I'd venture a guess Round Rock is now a suburb of Austin??
And boy do I miss that Texas BBQ!
 

Lightflyer1

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Round Rock, Texas
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2015 Beetle tdi dsg
It can help it burn soot but the regen will do that just fine, even in town if you let them complete as needed. In town they will happen more often due to more soot loading. If this stuff can lower the temps it burns at then maybe passive regens can happen or help. Nothing a good drive won't take care of though. I monitor mine with VAGDPF and let them complete when started.
 

ApriliaNut

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What is VAGDPF?
Does it tell you the percentage of capacity used in the DPF???
Can you manually do a DPF regen with it?
 

Lightflyer1

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Round Rock, Texas
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2015 Beetle tdi dsg
It is an android app that lets you monitor the dpf status. It will show used capacity and when in a regen or not. It will not allow you to do a manual regen. You can look but don't touch, so to speak.
 

Mongler98

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98 Jetta TDI AHU 1.9L (944 TDI swap in progress) I moved so now i got nothing but an AHU in a garage on a pallet.
Snake oil. Its not needed at all. A solution in search of a problem that was already solved from the factory. Save your $
 

johnsTDI

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I would not bother with using it. what i think can help though is running a few tanks of Shells V-Power Diesel. i have noticed from using V-power that when it regens i dont get that nasty sulphuric smell anymore from the regen is it due to using V-Power? im kinda thinking Yes bought my TDI used and the other guy im guessing ran plane jane diesel in it all the time. also seems more pepy on performance. Good stuff.
 

CleverUserName

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Eventually DPF will get clocked up with oil not with fuel , So I do not see any good effect of this .
That's actually a myth. In a healthy engine that doesn't have an oil consumption problem, 99%+ of the ash captured in a DPF comes from the fuel itself. Typical ULSD is 0.010% ash, so burn 1,000 Lbs of fuel will create 1 lb of ash.

Unless you have an oil burner, use whatever oil you want. I use CJ-4 10w30 in my 2.0 TDI because I know the extra ash in the oil isn't a significant factor in the DPFs lifespan. The reward is better performance and lower engine wear vs. low ash 507 oils.

 

CleverUserName

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I deal with DPFs constantly. What you posted there is incorrect.
Jetta 97 is correct.

To clarify its actually the oil additives and detergents that cause cause the ash, the base oil doesn't contribute much. Fuel ash and large micron air particles that get past the air filter contribute a small fraction.
Main ash chemical is Calcium sulfate (CaSO4) which makes up roughly 3/4 of of all ash. This is from the Calcium antiwear/detergent compounds in oil, this is why VW507 oils have lower calcium levels and higher boron compound levels.
VWs use small DPFs and they fill quickly hence why they use oil with low ash requirements.
You can use any oil you want, it's your car. Just going to fill the DPF quicker.
I know what causes ash, contrary to what you believe, all common metallic anti-wear and detergent oil additives contribute to ash formation, not just calcium sulfate.

What I posted is the ASTM and EU ash properties of Diesel and common Bio/Renewable diesel blends. How can this be incorrect? Are you saying the ASTM specifications showing that Diesel is up to 0.010% ash is false or "fake news"?

Burn 1,000 lbs of fuel (multiply by ash content %) = total ash captured in the DPF. For the fuels listed in the chart above, it is 1-10 lbs of ash per 1,000 lbs of fuel.

507 is 0.6% ash and CJ-4 is 1.0% ash. As I said before, there is no additive carryover from oil vapor through the CCV. Explain how this is significant in a vehicle that does not have an oil consumption problem? it's basically a simple math problem: 1.0% ash X (zero oil consumption) vs. 0.60% ash X (zero oil consumption). Both equal zero.
 

Mongler98

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1 lb of ash in anything is a LOT OF ASH. like Volume wise that would be the entire volume of the DPF
 

turbobrick240

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That .01% ash content is the maximum allowed under ASTM D975. That doesn't indicate that all D2 sold in America contains .01% ash. Much like .08% may be the maximum allowed blood alcohol content to operate a vehicle legally- but that does not indicate that everybody is driving around with .08% bac all of the time.
 

CleverUserName

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According to this this the ash limit for ULSD is 100 ppm. 100/1,000,000 is 0.0001%. I guess that table has a typo in it.

That would mean 1000 lbs of fuel would be up to 0.1 lb of ash.

Also interesting to note that Biodiesel ASTM limit is 2x as much ash as ULSD or 0.2 lb/1000 lbs. If you are running a blend it will be probably contain more ash than pure ULSD.

I don't have any oil consumption problems, oil vapor is ashless as well. With my normal driving cycle of < 25% engine load, I don't see how any significant amount of lubricant based ash can enter the DPF from the combustion chamber. That is the point of what I was saying.

For you guys who are paranoid about ash from your engine oil, have you considered the new Delo 600 lubes? They have a synthetic 10w30 which has even lower ash than VW 507. It's 0.4% https://cglapps.chevron.com/msdspds/PDSDetailPage.aspx?docDataId=590652&docFormat=PDF
 

Mongler98

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I still don't see the point. it's like arguing over how much radioactive material is in a potato. it's actually a fair amount. more than what is deemed acceptable by the FDA by almost 1,000 % , in Whey Protein powder. BUT YET WE STILL EAT THEM and its one of the best foods you can live on . (thanks slickdeals)

the amount of ash in a diesel fueled car whatever is pointless. they already get 2 to 3 times the mileage that a gas engine powered car usually gets and sometimes past 30% more fuel mileage. if that means i have 1 lb of ash in my motor oil or fuel, i could not give 2 winks winks of a care at all if im getting less better fuel econ and the car goes for twice the distance. Stop bickering and drive more and stop wasting your $ on meaningless bottles of random reptile lubrication.
 

GlowBugTDI

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I still don't see the point. it's like arguing over how much radioactive material is in a potato. it's actually a fair amount. more than what is deemed acceptable by the FDA by almost 1,000 % , in Whey Protein powder. BUT YET WE STILL EAT THEM and its one of the best foods you can live on . (thanks slickdeals).
The interesting and somewhat random information you have always makes for an engaging read:).
it's been a while Mongler!
 
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