Anyone fixed a pump leak at the distributor?

[John Beyer]

My pump it leaking badly between the distributor head and body. Has anyone replaced a seal here? I've done the seal for the quantity adjuster on another pump but never taken the distributor off a pump. I'm afraid of hearing I have to get a Bosch shop to do it.

(I started a search but ran into the shut down times.)

Thanks

 

[John Beyer]

Thanks KERMA for the drawing of the pump and part numbers.
Looks like I'll be finding out what's involved.

 

[cudabnu]

did the part #'s include the oring seals? Mine started leaking all over the place!

 

[John Beyer]

Yes. It's 1 900 210 154.
I'll email you the pdf if your address is in your profile. If not, email johnandcherylbeyer@yahoo.com and I'll send it back.

 

[cudabnu]

Thanks John, I ordered 2 set today! I should have them tomarrow, then see if it works!

 

[dosma]

I've discovered my injection pump is leaking either at the gasket where the distributor is bolted on or at a plastic part on the distributor with tan and black leads exiting it. I've burned B-100 for about a year and 15,000 miles and the leaking B-100 is disolving at least one water hose below the pump. My Passat has 80,000 miles on the odometer.

I'm very interested in your fix for this problem. I'm hoping I can repair the pump without sending it out for a rebuild. At this point I have not removed the pump.

Two questions: Have either of you burned biodiesel in your TDI's and are the gaskets and o rings mentioned in this thread available through VW? I'd also be interested in receiving a pdf of the pump drawing and part numbers. My email is dosma@pacbell.net. Regards

 

[KERMA]

The o-ring is a standard part and it is very widely used. You should be able to find it at any Bosch franchisee quite readily.

If someone could find a Viton o-ring of the same dimensions that would be a better solution.

When you pull the pump head out, be sure to hold the cam plate in place so all the roller bits don't spill out. It makes everything a lot easier that way. And keep track of the shim between the plunber foot and cam plate.

 

[BioDiesel]

I've replaced the distributor head O-ring on my A3.

directions and p/n's can be found by a
search for 'leak' near the bottom of the page
linked by the first line in my signature.

 

[cudabnu]

Just recieved my kit today, I'll see how it goes tonight when I get home. Wish me luck!

 

[dosma]

Thanks all for the suggestions. Dave sent me a PDF of the pump with part numbers. I'll get a gasket kit and go from there. Good luck Dave with your fix tonight.

 

[John Beyer]

KERMA, I was under the impression that all the seals in TDI pumps are Viton. I'll try to test that and find a Viton replacement.

dosma, I have been using biodiesel for a year and a half in both our TDIs (15-20k/yr) at B20-B100. I don't think, but I could be wrong, that biodiesel caused the leaks (the passat pump has leaks also). The o-ring was flatened and brittle, probably from age and heat. I think biodiesel causes buna-n orings to swell and soften. Just what has happened to the coolant line under the pump.

 

[dosma]

For what it's worth, I talked to a local rebuilder of non-electronic injector pumps. He told me that he thought the o-rings in the TDI pumps were Viton. It's my understanding that VW warrents VWs in Europe running biodiesel so it makes sense that Viton or similar would be used. This local rebuilder sends TDI pumps out to a rebuilder which he did not name but said they were the only Bosch authorized rebuilder for their pumps in the U.S. Can anybody add to this? If true, does anyone know their name and telephone number?

 

[cudabnu]

just gotta re- prime the pump, and check my timing. Car starts after cranking for a bit, then dies. BUT NO MORE LEAKS!!

 

[John Beyer]

Did you take the pump off to change the o-ring or do it on the car? How'd the old o-ring look?

If you have a Mighty-Vac, or someting similar, you can prime the pump by hooking it up to the injector return connection.

 

[cudabnu]

The o-rings were still soft, but flat. I cahnged a total of 3 o-rings, and did it on the car. I may still have air in the pump because the car will crank, then start to fire-up, run for a few seconds then die. I'll also have to see if the timing belt is off a tooth from me previously messing around!

 

[dosma]

Cudabnu, Congratulations on changing three O-rings while still on the car. Which O-rings were changed? Was it difficult keeping the internals; springs, shims, etc, in place when chinging the O-rings? Also, from what I've read, some dissasembly requires resetting fuel quantity by positioning a main housing via slotted assembly bolt holes. You probably didn't get that deep into the assembly but thought I would mention it.

I'm on the way out for a few days but will check back in on return in preparation for my leak repair.

Good luck with the finishing touches.

 

[cudabnu]

I replaced the top 2, and the rear ones. I ended up jacking up the drivers side of the car to get it at an angle to put the 4 rollers back in, veerything else went back in the way it came out, I was careful not to mess with anything! It was still a pain in the tooky! But I got it all back together and just have to align the timing marks to put a new timing belt on.

 

[John Beyer]

If you replaced the lower rectagular shaped seal on the top, then you have to get the quantity right again. Did you get it back on just where it was? Very small adjustments in this cover make a big change in quantity.

 

[cudabnu]

Good question, looks like I'll have something else to look at!

 

[cudabnu]

Hooked up a fuel pump in line to prime the pump, then she fired right up, no more leaks!

 

[rdkern]