Any BRM's make it past the 100K mile mark?

oilhammer

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There are just too many to list....
ssamalin said:
Ok tdt or delvac 5w40 at 5k oci. Is there a filter I need to have? My plan is to take the oil and filter to a jiffy lube or a station who'd do the oc with my oil and filter. What do I need to do my own oil change?
Your car needs other service, and you only need to do your oil changes every 10k miles.

Your upper engine cover just pops up and off on the BRM, no tools required. The cover is in 2 pieces.

Then a suitable socket for the oil filter cover (1 1/4 " will work, GM ECOtec tool, or similar).

Ramps or jacks to get the front end up (but like I said, the car needs other services such as a tire rotation at this time anyways).

A T-25 Torx bit to remove the lower plastic shield side parts or whatever tools necessary to remove the skidplate if equipped. Then a T-30 bit for the rear 3 screws for the plastic shield.

A 19mm wrench for the oil drian plug.

A pick tool is helpful to R&R the o-ring on the filter holder.
 
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ssamalin

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Thanks. Is there a special oil filter?


oilhammer said:
Your car needs other service, and you only need to do your oil changes every 10k miles.

Your upper engine cover just pops up and off on the BRM, no tools required. The cover is in 2 pieces.

Then a suitable socket for the oil filter cover (1 1/4 " will work, GM ECOtec tool, or similar).

Ramps or jacks to get the front end up (but like I said, the car needs other services such as a tire rotation at this time anyways).

A T-25 Torx bit to remove the lower plastic shield side parts or whatever tools necessary to remove the skidplate if equipped. Then a T-30 bit for the rear 3 screws for the plastic shield.

A 19mm wrench for the oil drian plug.

A pick tool is helpful to R&R the o-ring on the filter holder.
 

abarns

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Oilhammer-

Out of sheer curiosity, what is the max and mean mileage of your 'Pento HPII' fleet? You've about got me convinced to switch after I run out of Excellium- I was going to use TDT. I saw on a forum dedicated to oils (who knew such a thing existed...) that it's not exactly full synthetic, but that clearly hasn't caused any problems for you (and it was synthetic enough to get the 505.01 cert).
 

oilhammer

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There are just too many to list....
I think there is a LOT of gray area with regards to the term "synthetic" and I do not really care to even use that as a determining factor for the oil I use.

I use, and have always used, oils that meet both the prefered weight and the specific VAG spec that is called for. Synthetic, semi-synthetic, Group 3, Group 4, does not contain dolphins, does contain dolphins, may contain peanuts, I don't care. :rolleyes:

We switched to the Pento HP2 a few years ago because it covered the widest variety of cars that we would use it on. It carries most of the VAG oil specs for cars sold here (both gas and diesel) as well as MB's newest spec, BMW, Porsche, etc. I was always a Castrol guy, and continue to run it in my '91 Jetta, my '82 Vanagon, and my Japanese vehicles. But with the newer VAG specs, Castrol really messed things up by not making the stuff widely available nor even keeping their American branch up on what is what. Doesn't help that the dealers, so often clueless about oil specs anyways, get even more confused by the Syntec/TXT/SLX/LL03/5W40/5W30/etc. nonsense that Castrol has been feeding them over the last 10+ years. No wonder they can't put the correct oil in, it keeps changing and they [Castrol] will not sell the stuff in bulk! :mad:

My own PD has (so far) been fed a steady diet of 5w40 TXT since new, and that supply has run out (I bought a bunch when the car was new, enough to get me to 100k miles). And once again, I have tried several times, as a jobber and an authorized Castrol reseller, to get it in bulk with no luck, or to get ANY 5w40 Castrol product meeting the 505.01 spec in ANY container and again met with failure. I've even called all the local retailers of Castrol's new 'Edge' line, and nobody can or will get 5w40 in.

So I too will be switching it to Pentosin in a few thousand miles, and I feel safe doing so because of so many customers' cars that have been running it without troubles for so long. And the only reason I did not switch sooner was because, as I said, I bought enough TXT when the car was new to get me for a while.

As far as a median Pento HP2 mileage, that would be tough to say. Lots of VEs with 250k+, especially some of the older ones. Much of the PD fleet has been hitting 100k lately (I know this because I have been doing just as many if not more PD timing belts than VEs, and that is not including the BHW engines due to the BS upgrades).

Also a boatload of gas VAG cars, Sprinters, etc. that we run it in. And every one of them with the exception of some sludge-prone 1.8t cars are running 10k mile intervals.
 

gpshumway

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oilhammer said:
There are 2 Mobil 5w40 oils sold here, one is the TDT type (used to be Delvac?) then the MB dealers sell one that is MB-specific 229.51. They might be the exact same oil, just a different bottle, I do not know. If I were going to run a Mobil 5w40 product in my PD, I think I would go to MB and buy their stuff over the 'generic' stuff sold in the stores. I doubt the price difference could be that much.
Just to add a little info here, there are three 5w40 diesel oils now available from Mobil. Turbo Diesel Truck, Mobil 1 ESP Formula M (MB 229.51) and Delvac 1 ESP. All three are different formulations. Up until API CJ-4, TDT and Delvac 1 were the same product in different bottles. ESP Formula M is a recently introduced product.
 

MyAvocation

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jasonTDI said:
The majority of the failures I have seen were 5w30 SLX and/or short trip cars.
Adding my .02: Broke-in BRM in Jan/Feb '07 & wondered if my wear is extreme temp break-in related. Very few short trips & used Elf DID until unavailable.
Jason, I'll be calling soon for a TB job (or trading-up to 2010).
 
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hid3

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abarns said:
I saw on a forum dedicated to oils (who knew such a thing existed...) that it's not exactly full synthetic, but that clearly hasn't caused any problems for you (and it was synthetic enough to get the 505.01 cert).
I accidently found that info too. I thought that everything >VW505.00 is pure synthetic. And I thought that VW 505.01 was something really special! It seems I was wrong. Indeed it is just syntetic enought to get a cert. Now I've found out that Motul Specific 505.01 is Group 4 oil which means it's 100% syntetic. This is what I use in my PD. Don't get consufed with older Motul. The Group 4 Motul is called 'Motul Specific 505.01 5w40 100% syntetic (not Technosythese!!)' and it meets VW 502.00/505.00/505.01 and some Ford standart (the same VW PD engines just fitted to Ford Galaxy). Hope this info helps you.
 

Sweeps

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None currently. MK4/5/6 Jetta's in the past.
jerry_m said:
I accidently found that info too. I thought that everything >VW505.00 is pure synthetic. And I thought that VW 505.01 was something really special! It seems I was wrong. Indeed it is just syntetic enought to get a cert. Now I've found out that Motul Specific 505.01 is Group 4 oil which means it's 100% syntetic. This is what I use in my PD. Don't get consufed with older Motul. The Group 4 Motul is called 'Motul Specific 505.01 5w40 100% syntetic (not Technosythese!!)' and it meets VW 502.00/505.00/505.01 and some Ford standart (the same VW PD engines just fitted to Ford Galaxy). Hope this info helps you.
Since I got mine at 113,000km, it gets Motul Specific 505.01 5w40 as well.
 

TDI 4 RD

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I hit 103500 miles today. 200 mile/day commute. No real problems so far, except a front wheel bearing may be going bad, and I have a small oil leak near the turbo. I usually add about 1 qt over 10K miles. I used Elf Excellium 505.01, and now mainly use Motul Specific 505.01, or Mobil TDT. Averaging about 46 mpg highway, on 225 tires.

Hope to keep the car until I hit 250K, then I'll go for the Golf GTD with the 170hp engine. :)
 
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ErikR

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I've got just under 110,000 miles on my 2006. I used Elf Excellium DID since the second oil change and then switched to the analogous Total-brand oil.

I never inspected my cam and I don't intend to. I also don't worry about it. I did get a magnetic drain plug at 80K miles and at my last OC I did notice some prominent metal shavings attached to the magnet but I'm not loosing any sleep over this either. Performance-wise the car operates like the day I got it.

Oilhammer's post based on his experience makes me think that maybe a 40wt oil like the Pento might be a good choice so maybe 'll try that next time.
 

bombero

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ErikR said:
I've got just under 110,000 miles on my 2006. I used Elf Excellium DID since the second oil change and then switched to the analogous Total-brand oil.

I never inspected my cam and I don't intend to. I also don't worry about it. I did get a magnetic drain plug at 80K miles and at my last OC I did notice some prominent metal shavings attached to the magnet but I'm not loosing any sleep over this either. Performance-wise the car operates like the day I got it.

Oilhammer's post based on his experience makes me think that maybe a 40wt oil like the Pento might be a good choice so maybe 'll try that next time.
"prominent metal shavings"....I'd be afraid to look at my cam too!
 

*ME

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125,xxx on my 2006 manual transmission BRM. I performed all services, except TB (dealer), with World Impex kits. So far so good.
 
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Mach1

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I have 101,000 miles..I have over 150hp and generate some serious heat here in Texas..

I checked my cam at 95000, I had one..the #3 exhaust has wear on it...just a weeee bit..

I get 47 mpg every tank...

I went against the grain and have my own beliefs about the cam failures..

I can state this though..I am running a 20000 mile OCI..using...oh NO..not 506.01 0-30W oil...(your car is going to self destruct with that light weight oil)..ELF CRV..

OA...You ask...last OA showed 37ppm FE on a OCI of 15000 miles..

I am trying to make mine fail so that I can do some mods to correct it..FOREVER..Frank and I have been kicking around some ideas...

I believe in S9000 and TDT..this Will help prolong failures..



DH...I have been saying you have wear on yours...You might check some day..
 

05_new_jetta

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just turned 125k changed the oil with pento 5w 40, I think I might actually just switch back to rotella 5w40 just because it didn't hurt my last cam from what I am reading, plus I can get it locally.. also changed my oci to 8k because its cheap insurance IMHO
 

ErikR

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bombero said:
"prominent metal shavings"....I'd be afraid to look at my cam too!
I'll have to post a picture so you can judge for yourself. My approach is that is may very well fail but then I'll replace it and in the meanwhile I will just drive it and not fret over it.

http://pics.tdiclub.com/showphoto.php?photo=59262&cat=500&ppuser=41237

when II cleaned these shaving off they did not feel like metal to the touch, just like pasty sludge
 
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hid3

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A general question: after 10k OCI, should there be some metal on the magnetic drain plug or should it be absolutely clean? I mean, what is considered 'normal'?
 

TwoTone

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Well I finally broke down and order a valve cover gasket with LOF supplies.

I'm glad I did, No visible wear on the cam at 80k.

We have an extended warranty, so I'll check again right before it ends.
 

jasonTDI

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bombero said:
"prominent metal shavings"....I'd be afraid to look at my cam too!
Head in the sand....:rolleyes:

Just causing more damage. When it wears through the lifter and destroys the top of the valve and the repair cost tripples....well....
 

jasonTDI

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Jerry, what you should see is a tiny, tiny bit of super fine filings if anything at all. It'll look like a bit of Anti seize paste.
 

hid3

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Jason, thanks for info. I recall my oil change shortly after replacing the cam (flushing the break-in oil after a 300 mile run). I found something that looked like a grease in silver colour on the drain plug. The film was really thin but it looked silver. Also I found a stick of metal (like paperclip). I believe it was part of the oil pump's strain since my mechanic was cleaning the strain after he cleaned the oil pan.

My next oil change is in 2k miles. I'll report back what I found on the plug.
 

hid3

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I guess that stick came from an edge since it was about 1.5 cm long. There might be a hole but I doubt the strainer does much job: there isn't such a big contaminants in my oil. Besides, oil filter tries to catch tem, if any. When replacing the filter, they get thrown out with it. While those stuck in the strainer might sit there for ages or release some day and ruin some component. Let's expect for the best :)
 

dhdenney

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Mach1 said:
DH...I have been saying you have wear on yours...You might check some day..
Naw, I've checked it two or three times and decided I was wasting my time. My last UOA on TDT was very respectable at 15K miles. I was in Memphis this weekend for the LSX Shootout and was wondering if a man could send a PD cam to Comp Cams and say "Grind me one of these." :confused:
 

ssamalin

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I just got a 4-1 gallon case of delvac from avlube.com for $162.82 including $33.90 shipping. How much do I put in a 6.5 5m per oc? I thought it was 5 quarts? I'm getting wheel stands and changing it in a parking spot, possible?
 
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hid3

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I guess it takes 4.5 quarts. If I were you, I'd start by putting 4 quarts and then top up while observing the dipstick.
 

jasonTDI

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Drain from the pan and filter replacement without emptying the oil cooler is 4 qt's to the middle of the hatch marks. I usually fill 4.25 since customers don't check....ever.
 

hid3

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Jason, is 4 quarts what Bentley (or other manual) says?
Do you know what oil capacity is for BEW?

The reason I'm asking is that 4 quarts is quite low. Here in Europe (almost) all PD engines with flat tappets take at least 4.5 quarts per book. However, BKD engine (which is 2.0 TDI-PD 16v and use roller type followers [and of course doesn't suffer the cam wear problem although have others]) take exactly 4 quarts.

Might that be one of at least few factors why BRM suffers cam failure?
 

kcfoxie

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I'm on my original cam at 99k miles.

//switched to TDT to retain the 10k OCI
//it's cheaper than the 505.01/506 stuff
 
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