I used a 470uf 25v cap when I replaced mine. If you're going to do the one I would think it wise to do the other as well.
The 470uf is a Nishicon cap, the 220uf 6.3v cap was Fcon. You may not find these brands though, but I don't recall if I specifically looked for these brands either. You will have to buy a few more than you want but that just means some backup for another cluster down the road too.
I just searched on e-bay to find the ones I needed. It was 50k miles and 5 years ago and I've had no problems. When I got the cluster it squealed like a pig, so even before I powered it up I replaced the caps in hopes of salvaging the cluster...and it did.
I changed both capacitors, and I think the caps are keyed to the stripe on the plastic cover. The 0 on the stripe IIRC means ground.So when it was mentioned to change BOTH capacitors in the top right corner. That is incorrect? Really it is changing ONE capacitor? I am confused.
Post a photo the object you removed from the smaller mounting, that will be the easiest way to determine what needs to go there.Well hopefully I can get this inductor back on, are those polarized? I dont see any indication on it that it is, just a semi opaque plastic housing with a copper coil wrapped around inside it.
Inductors are not polarized. The 2 caps in his pic are polarized.I’m no electronics expert, but I thought this style cap, is definitely polarized….
You do have two caps, but the second smaller one is in a slightly different location.I put it all back together it was an inductor there, my board looks like the photo above only 1 capacitor the C970 (furthest space on the right) did not originally have a cap also like the picture above.
The cluster in my wagon got dismantled in order to replace the caps, but I never had to remove the stepper to do it, only the housing / lens and the white bits that surround the stepper.So, those caps can be swapped, without removing the tach stepper? Doesn’t appear to be too hard, if so.
Without looking at it, I'd say they affix the board to the plastic housing. Nothing electrical + or - is running through the plastic. The metal tabs are probably acting as washers for the screws.I would like to know what the two screws that affix the board to the plastic housing and subsequent metal tabs in the top left corner do? Power? Ground?
That sounds like progress to me....Status update: I flipped the middle gear on the speedo and tested each gauge by hand and verified the sweep manually. I would like to know what the two screws that affix the board to the plastic housing and subsequent metal tabs in the top left corner do? Power? Ground? CLuster plugged in, key on, gear whir sound, clocks turn on and display properly. Replaced a blown fuse 21 so now I have clocks with vehicle off. No response from fuel gauge now. Drive around the block, tach works, clocks and mileage counters work. No speedo, no fuel gauge didnt give it a chance to warm up to test thermostat. As slow down I can hear clicking from the speedo gear. is there a way to ensure the gears mesh? What more can we rule out at this point?