Another 01M running from Freddy

[sdeck]

So my 03 Jetta 01M has been driving a little "funny" for a couple of weeks. No problem going in or out of any gear. Just when it shifts, I seem to get a little bit of flare from the engine. No hard shifts or bumps or anything, just like if it slipping a hair during the shift.

I have noticed 3 times over the past year or so that after a long crawl in stop-n-go traffic (like 30+ minutes) and getting clear and on the highway, my rpms at 70 mph go up near 3000 instead of the usually 2560ish. small hills cause more rpms, downhill causes them to drop. Last one happened yesterday on the way to work. cleared the code with my OBDII and car ran finew on the way home, except for the little bit of "flaring" during shifts (Maybe my imagination)

It doesn't trigger the CEL, but if I scan it with my OBDII scanner, I get P0811 "Clutch slippage excessive". I finally borrowed a VCDS and scanned it and got:

01192 - Torque Converter Lock-Up Clutch
04-10 - Mechanical Malfunction - Intermittent

I graphed the TCC slip per CoolAirVW's directions in one of his posts, and only saw a couple of 15 blips while the car was acting "normal" on the highway. Can't seem to find the graph right now though.....

I have read a bunch of posts on this. Big kudos to CoolAirVW for being so methodical on this topic. It boils down to 2 questions:

1. It was 10K since the last big slippage issue. Do I get the VB rebuilt now, or wait to see if it gets worse?

2. Assuming a VB rebuild is recomended, where can I get the how-to for removal? I really don't want to break the ribbon cable clips.

I don't need Freddy yet (I hope), but want to keep him off-stage as long as possible. Oh yeah, please don't bother suggesting a 5-speed swap. I'd love to, but just had the head rubuilt, cylinders honed, and turbo upgraded due to my adventures in WVO. Thanks to aNut for doing a great job on that!

 

[CoolAirVw]

Freddy Mercury sucks.

The trick to not breaking the ribbon is to pry the connector up cocking it upwards. Sometimes when they are a little stiff I pry into the solenoid are where it latches. Exact technique is impossible to describe. I need to make some pics with how-to in order to understand.

I have the special tool but all it does is prys upward and cocking the thing away from the "latches".

I need to post the number of the special tool. Its not high but a guy could make it easy. I sell it for $13 shipped.

When your graphing it make sure you are "loading it up".

With regard to "should you do it now or wait"??? I think thats a common sense question.

I keep wanting to make how-to's and post more info.. but people keep bringing me their cars so I cant. I have 29 hours of work this weekend. (fortunatly I have help though!).

 

[sdeck]

3000 mile update

I now have 3000 miles since installing the valve body CoolAirVW rebuilt. At the risk of jinxing the whole thing, I figured I should report how its going.

The transmission has not thrown any codes since the VB install and I have noticed no instances of TCC slippage. The TCM was coded to 00012 and about 800 miles ago I changed it to 00011. Since changing the TCM coding to 00011, the shift points seem a little firmer and crisper and the frequency of "hunting" has gone down significantly.

The car definitely drives "tighter". The pedal response is much more "connected" and more direct. My wife even noticed the difference. Now, if I can keep my almost-16 year old learner-permit son from trying to tear everything apart at the stoplights, I'll be happy. I think he watches too much Top Gear......

 

[fnj2]

Do I get the VB rebuilt now, or wait to see if it gets worse?

Why would rebuilding the valve body do ANYTHING to help a worn out torque converter lockup clutch?

 

[rackaracka]

Why would rebuilding the valve body do ANYTHING to help a worn out torque converter lockup clutch?

It wouldn't - but chances are the torque converter lockup clutch is not the problem. It's common in these transmissions for the valve body solenoids to be worn and bleed by hydraulic pressure causing slipping, fluttering, and loping shifts.

 

[CoolAirVw]

Why would rebuilding the valve body do ANYTHING to help a worn out torque converter lockup clutch?

What makes you think the "torque converter lockup clutch" is worn out?

I'll tell you why rebuilding the valve body would fix his TCC code. The "clutch" part of a torque converter is applied by hydraulic pressure. The clutch is probably the most reliable part of the system. For that clutch to apply it must be provided with pressure from the valve body and solenoid. If the TCC valve is worn the pressure that should be applying the clutch just "falls" into the pan. These things are always worn.

I cant garentee that a valve body will fix every TCC code, because there are other places that can leak the same pressure that a worn valve body leaks. But I have fixed so many now, that I would try it in every instance of TCC cycling or TCC code. As of yet its fixed every instance of TCC cycling or TCC code that I've attempted to fix. This includes all the valve bodies that are shipped in to me.

 

[CoolAirVw]

It's common in these transmissions for the valve body solenoids to be worn and bleed by hydraulic pressure causing slipping, fluttering, and loping shifts.

Although it possible a stuck solenoid could cause a TCC code, its not nearly as common as wear in the valve bodies themselves.

If someone has time and not worried about the extra work they could change the TCC solenoid quickly when they have a TCC code to eliminate that as a possibility. Diagnosis of a sticky trans solenoid is difficult for a professional, and all but impossible for a layperson.

 

[rackaracka]

My 2002 Jetta Wagon is running strong, shifting better than new, with about 160k. I noticed minor loping around 40mph while maintaining constant speed the rpm would float a hair up and then back down. I pulled the valve body and had it rebuilt by CoolAirVW - and this was about 10k ago. I needed to also replace the ribbon cable as it was so brittle I couldn't remove it without breaking a couple of the clips. Thumbs up for Richard!

 

[UFO]

It is gratifying to see some folks sharing and supporting this transmission. I am losing my dread of having to swap in a 5 speed when my O1M starts acting up.

 

[simbolo]

had the same exact symptoms back in 2006, ended up dishing out $4500 on a new 01M. Drove it like that for 2 months, eventually i would barely make it up hills at 4000RPM. if i knew then what i know now i would have definitely looked into a manual swap...

good luck..

 

[Bugger]

sdeck,

The transmission has not thrown any codes since the VB install and I have noticed no instances of TCC slippage. The TCM was coded to 00012 and about 800 miles ago I changed it to 00011. Since changing the TCM coding to 00011, the shift points seem a little firmer and crisper and the frequency of "hunting" has gone down significantly.

Can you explain the TCM code change and how to do it? Do you change it with the vag-com? Any updates?

Thanks,
Ken

 

[sdeck]

yeah, you need to go into adaptaion in the VCDS and change it. Not hard, just don't remember the details. I searched this forum and found them when I did it.

Still no codes, but the shifts still flare a little bit unless I am pretty firm on the pedal. It's like it can't decide if it wants to be in 2nd or 3rd and only opens the valve part way or the line pressure isn't high enough to firmly shift it into the next gear. I really don't understand how this slushbox works, so this may be completely off the mark. Also, if I go from long highway speed to stop-and-go, it does a little bit of hunting on the speed-up/slow-down of the jam, if you know what I mean. A couple of times it has "chunked" into third a little harder than I would like, but only 2-3 times so far. The big imporvement is no more "no fourth" or slipping TCC on the highway.

 

[CoolAirVw]

To recode your TCM just go into auto trans computer in vag-com. Then click coding. If you have a late version of vag-com installed then a pop up "thought window" will guide you on what figures to put in for the various modes.

 

[CoolAirVw]

... but the shifts still flare a little bit unless I am pretty firm on the pedal. It's like it can't decide if it wants to be in 2nd or 3rd and only opens the valve part way or the line pressure isn't high enough to firmly shift it into the next gear. I really don't understand how this slushbox works, so this may be completely off the mark.

Did you reset adapts? Can you put a pressure gauge on it to check line pressure to make sure its high enough?

Flare on 2-3 is a common problem I hear alot on vortex but unfortunatly I've only ever worked on one. And I didn't get a chance to fix it becuase the customer didn't want to spend any money and just decided to live with it.

I guess based on your car, that we can say "normal" valve body work isn't gonna fix a 2-3 flare. (I'm not convinced this will be the case 100% of the time because if the pressure regulator or the solenoid regulator valve are worn, which they always are then line pressure could suffer and make a situation where line pressure isn't high enough).

Lets talk 2-3 flare. On the shift to 3rd the B2 clutch must release and the k3 clutch apply with "perfect" timing.

If the B2 releases before the k3 applies then you end up with a flare.

If the k3 applies before the b2 releases then you end up with a quick bind, which feels like a jerky shift.

If the k3 applies to slowly then you end up with a flare.

The B2 is "watched" by the G38 sensor. The G38 reads the sun gear shell which spins in all ranges but stops in 2nd and 4th, when B2 is on. So the computer should see the B2 coming off too fast, and according to what I know it should compensate accordingly, as it adapts, by either raising line pressure slightly to make the k3 apply faster, or by delaying the solenoid action that turns off the B2 clutch. Unfortunatly Vw doesn't release info on the exact adaptive strategy so I could be dead wrong. I suppose its possible the G38 is only used for ratio verification.


So we have to ask ourself.. What can make the B2 come off faster?

1. burned clutch material on B2 would make less holding power and it would release faster that the computer would expect.
2. Pressure leaks in the hydraulic circuit that applies the B2.

Also we have to ask what could make the K3 come on slower than expected.

1. Line pressure low (as you mentioned)
2. K3 Clutch material burned making clutch grab less aggressively than it should.
3. Pressure leaks in hydraulic circuit that applies k3.
4. Sticky solenoid that controls the apply of the k3. This isn't very likely because if it was sticky then at some point it would probably stick entirely and you would have no 3rd.

I got more I want to say, but I got to go for now.

 

[sdeck]

Richard,

I reset it by the key on, pedal down, key off method. Not any noticable change. I don't know where/how to check line pressure or even what kind of gauge to use. Any way to tell if the clutches are worn? (aside from dismantling the tranny?)

Do they get worse, stay the same, have to fix, live with it????

Looking forward to hearing "the rest of the story..."

 

[oilhammer]

I am thinking it sounds like something internal as well, but the fact that it is not as bad when you are accelerating harder also makes me think the line pressure may not be enough. Not saying the line pressure is somehow too low, but that even with it regulated as high as the TCM goes, something worn in the internals may be needing the higher possible pressure from higher engine RPM to make the shift more positive.

You may try and see if a manual shift from 2 to 3 under the same RPM/load has the same shift quality, because I *think* the fluid valving is a bit less "cushioned" in manual mode IIRC. Been a while since I learned about these in school.

 

[CoolAirVw]

I reset it by the key on, pedal down, key off method.

As far as I know that doesn't work on a Tdi. Anyone else know any different? I think thats a gasser thing.

I don't know where/how to check line pressure or even what kind of gauge to use.

There's this cool website (shameless plug follows) with lots of 01m info. www.kansascitytdi.com

Any way to tell if the clutches are worn? (aside from dismantling the tranny?)

Yes. If you have a flare and cant pinpoint any other problem (ie pressure control) then you automatically (pun intended) assume its clutches or a pressure loss to the clutch.

Do they get worse, stay the same, have to fix, live with it????

I assume they get worse till they fail. As I said only one with 2-3 flare has come through my doors. Wierd though cuz it seems to be common. I do have to say VW has a bulliten regarding updated TCM (meaning new software) to address this problem on a VR6. I havn't seen any such bulliten that applies to tdi. I would wonder if a NEW computer with updated last two digits on the part number might have some different (better) control strategy to address this. It would be very expensive to try that though. Someday maybe a tuner will hack the 01m TCM and make changes at will like they do with the ECM. Any tuners up to the task I would definatly work with them just PM me!

Looking forward to hearing "the rest of the story..."

Ok, back to the 2-3 flare.

So maybe can we do some mod or trick to try to fix the 2-3 flare?

Lets ask ourself

1. what can we do to make the b2 come off slower? Not much really, but maybe... I'll look at the oil schematic to see.

2. What can we do to make the k3 come on faster? Maybe we can do something here. But first we need to make sure eveything is working.

You'll need to find someone with vag-com then follow the instructions on my website for resetting adapts. Then drive it for awhile to make sure the flare is still there.

Get a gauge on that line pressure port and verify you have correct line pressure. I think this is on my website if not I'll update it with the specs.
Then you need to make sure it boosts correctly. Meaning put it in drive, left foot hard on the brake and floor the accelerator with right foot, taking note of pressure at MAX. Do the same for reverse. If pressure is a little low then we may want to Kerma mod it up some to see if it helps. This doesn't mean screw the adjustment in to max. Also drive the car and take note of what line pressure is when the flare happens. Do this cold and write down the numbers then drive the car and warm it up and do it again. Comparison of hot to cold shows integrity of hydraulic circuit sealing ability.

If we do end up pulling the pan you should swap the TCC solenoid with the pressure control solenoid or maybe we should try a new pressure control solenoid, while we're in there.

now if we go through all this, and still have a flare, then maybe we'll try some tricks.. Here's my ideas.

1. Stick a resistor in the pressure control solenoid wiring. Idea here is less amps = higher pressure. Its likely this will trigger a code but maybe we could pull it off.

2. Enlarge an oriface to the k3 clutch to get more apply pressure there faster.

3. Other ideas are floating around but I'll need to look at the hydraulic schematic before I throw them out there. My pride makes me not want to stick my foot in my mouth.

 

[sdeck]

Hi Richard,

A little more background and some observations.

1. the key/pedal method is quoted alot around here. Sure it is a gasser-only thing?

2. seems to "clunk" more when cold (i.e. first drive after sitting overnight or weekend). NOTE: it does it only occasionally, not every time or even a good percentage of the time. usually right after I start thinking maybe its OK now.

3. seems better when warm, but maybe 2-3 flares a little more instead of clunking when hot. i.e. drive 35 miles at 75mph then get stuck in traffic.

4. Been playing with it a bit (today). per Oilhammer's suggestion, if I start out with the gear select in 2, then wait to get the rpms up around 2K before moving to 3, it shifts fine. Haven't tried manual shifting at low rpms

5. car seems to lug a bit and the overall shifting seems early, especially when driving in town or up a hill. Could this be due to the 00011 coding? IIRC, that is DSP off-economy mode. maybe I should go back to 00012, 00002 or 00000? at least one thread (http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=94046&highlight=00012&page=2) has pointed to lugging as a problem with 00011.

6. Looked at your website, but only reference to a gauge was the picture on the 01M failure analysis page. How do you read that gauge while driving? I have no clue about gauges so if you know the type/fitting size/whatever else I need to know, that could be useful.

As always, thanks again

Steve

 

[CoolAirVw]

1. No, this is why I said, "anybody know any different" and "I think its a gasser thing". Next code I get on the trans module I'll see if that will clear it. See I never try the manual method because I have vag-com. Since I KNOW the reset works with vag-com, you can try it or not. Seems to me you would want to exhaust every option before you come to the conclusion your trans needs major work.

2. Are you saying the 2-3 clunks when it doesn't flare?

3. I'm confused. I thought we were dealing with just a 2-3 flare. Guess I missed something in the reading.

4. I'll have to review the oil schematics to see what hydraulic difference there is between manual 2-3 and auto 2-3. From what I know allready there's not much. But I dont know everything. Oilhammer has probably forgotten more about Vw's than I know.

5. The difference between Economy and vs sport is mainly the shift timing. Economy = earlier shifts (lugging) Sport = later shifts. This isn't a problem its a strategy difference. The first car I ever drove on sport setting I spent about an hour trying to figure out why it shifted so late. . Understand this is not what the trans is doing. It is how the computer is controlling the trans. sport mode is commanded later, and economy mode is commanded earler. In both these circumstance the trans is obeying/behaving/doing what its supposed to do. The trans only does what its told. Theres a inbetween mode if I recall correctly. I think its called "normal". Maybe you should try that. You'll need to understand though, you'll loose economy.

6. I seem to remember typing up a big long explanation of checking pressures. Either I lost it in the upload, or I never uploaded it. Lots of my webpage has been built between the hours of 10:00 PM and 2:00 am, because I'm working the rest of the time. I'll try to get the info together for you.

 

[oilhammer]

"Normal" mode, which is called Dynamic Shift Program (or 'DSP'), just allows the TCM to toggle between the 2 modes (Sport, Economy) based on driver behavior and conditions. If DSP is enabled, which it is by default, it is what causes some of the goofy erratic behavior these transmissions are known for, and why it is so important (I think) to clear the TCM memory at every service... or just turn it off completely. But if you disable DSP, then you MUST choose Sport or Economy, and one of those is sometimes too extreme one way or the other for some drivers.

Personally, I think if you drive a lot of city, the ALH works better with the 01M in Sport mode, and if you drive mostly highway, it does better in Economy mode. The gas non-turbo 4 cylinders work best in Sport mode all the time, IMHO. The few 1.8t cars that got bolted to the 01M seem to shift stupid no matter what you do, probably why they quickly started using the 09A after only 1.5 model years. If there was ever a transmission that would have benefitted from a button on the dash or console that allowed the driver to switch back and forth at will, the 01M is it. Even my mom's old Camry gives you that option.

But in any case, the DSP setting will not/should not cause flared shifts. That is generally a valve body issue or an internal clutch/hydromechanical issue.

 

[sdeck]

1. No, this is why I said, "anybody know any different" and "I think its a gasser thing". Next code I get on the trans module I'll see if that will clear it. See I never try the manual method because I have vag-com. Since I KNOW the reset works with vag-com, you can try it or not. Seems to me you would want to exhaust every option before you come to the conclusion your trans needs major work.

IDK if it is supposed to clear codes, but from what I have read, it is supposed to reset the fuzzy logic of the DSP. I will try to borrow a VCDS next week.

2. Are you saying the 2-3 clunks when it doesn't flare?

Sometimes clunks, sometimes flares, most of the time it is fine.

3. I'm confused. I thought we were dealing with just a 2-3 flare. Guess I missed something in the reading.

I get the occasional 2-3 "clunk" primarily when I start out in the morning. again, usually its fine. When it happens, it is during the first couple of 2->3 shifts as I drive through town to get to the highway. My observation is that when I get this event, it is while the tranny is trying to upshift 2->3 but the rpms are low <2000 for sure)

4. I'll have to review the oil schematics to see what hydraulic difference there is between manual 2-3 and auto 2-3. From what I know allready there's not much. But I dont know everything. Oilhammer has probably forgotten more about Vw's than I know.

I am working on the presumption (I know NOTHING about how these things work) that at higher rpms, there is more line pressure to move the valves in the VB. If I manually shift, I can wait to 2000+ rpms to go from 2->3. If I let the TCM do it, sometimes it does it at 1100 rpms or maybe a bit more and it sometimes flares and the engine starts lugging.

Oilhammer- in regard to your post, any thoughts on this assumption? wouldn't "sport" mode, which shifts later at higher rpms, result in shifting at higher line pressure, or is line pressure constant regardless of rpms? Just trying to get a base understanding of how these things work.

5. The difference between Economy and vs sport is mainly the shift timing. Economy = earlier shifts (lugging) Sport = later shifts. This isn't a problem its a strategy difference. The first car I ever drove on sport setting I spent about an hour trying to figure out why it shifted so late. . Understand this is not what the trans is doing. It is how the computer is controlling the trans. sport mode is commanded later, and economy mode is commanded earler. In both these circumstance the trans is obeying/behaving/doing what its supposed to do. The trans only does what its told. Theres a inbetween mode if I recall correctly. I think its called "normal". Maybe you should try that. You'll need to understand though, you'll loose economy.

Again, seems like later shift points would allow shifting with higher line pressure, resulting in more firmer shifting. Maybe I am way off on the assumptions here.

6. I seem to remember typing up a big long explanation of checking pressures. Either I lost it in the upload, or I never uploaded it. Lots of my webpage has been built between the hours of 10:00 PM and 2:00 am, because I'm working the rest of the time. I'll try to get the info together for you.

I may have just missed it. I'll look again when I have more time. There was a write up associated with the pic that talked about flooring it in drive and reverse (with brake engaged) and measuring MAX pressure and checking the pressure during the shift points while driving, but seems like you would need a long pressure line to do that without a dyno. iguess I could have one of my teenage sons hang out the door with his head under the car, might knock some sense into him

Its tough when work gets in the way of life, but better than the alternatives

 

[CoolAirVw]

Here's something......last night while I was rebuilding a valve body, noticed the n92 solenoid seemed sticky, and didn't flow correctly. So I replaced it and later I wondered if the customer was having a problem with it so I reviewed our correspondance to see if he mentioned any symptoms that would relate to the n92 solenoid. Anyway, in the course of this I realized that your complaint could relate to the n92 solenoid.

The n92 solenoids function is to cushion shifts, by dropping line pressure on each shift, as commanded by the TCM. The longer the solenoid is energized the more drop in line pressure you would have. The computer uses this function to adapt. This function can be seen on a gauge as you drive the car. Side note: Back in the day it was common for the computer to fail and stop doing this pressure drop causing harsh shifts. There's a bulliten for this.

Here is the theory... If you n92 sticks a little closed then you could get a flare. If it sticks a little open then you could get a clunk. If your up to a quick pan drop you could try the solenoid. No garentee's of course. It would be best to check pressures to really see what was happening, but honestly you could drain the fluid into a clean bucket, then change the solenoid and then pour the fluid back in and save the hassle of the check procedure, and be done less than an hour. This is of course assuming you did the check procedure correctly when you installed the valve body.

Also it's possible the pressure control solenoid could be sticking as well causing line to stay low when the flare is happening or stay high when your clunk is happening.

 

[oilhammer]

And (to add to what Richard just said) I *think* the ATF pump should have plenty of pressure under most circumstances that the N92 solenoid needs to lessen the pressure to cushion the shift. But, if the ATF pump is weak, or there is some leak somewhere causing a pressure loss, then perhaps there is just not enough window for the N92 to be able to do its job. I would think though that a pressure loss, from whatever reason, would remain a constant, and not come and go.

 

[sdeck]

This is the best part of this forum. Not only do I get to learn about how these things work, but I get rational courses of action suggested based on working theories. I'm a scientist, I love theories!

I just realized that one piece of info may be missing for some of you. Just prior to having the VB rebuilt by Richard, I exchanged the ATF with Valvoline MaxLife Synthetic ATF by 4X drain and fill. At least a couple gurus told me it was fine or likely to be fine. New filter then and another new one after the VB was rebuilt. Prior to this, I had been running the BG full syn ATF since ~100K after being flushed by a local VW/MB shop (yes with the full cooler hookups). It is currently running Valvoline MaxLife synthetic and I checked the fluid level per the instructions.

I don't have access to/know what kind of gauge is needed to measure the line pressure, so I will work with what I can do. Since Richard recently rebuilt the VB, I will work on the assumption that the seals and such are good. Of course sticky solenoids can be/are probably almost always intermittent until they get real bad, so I will bear that in mind as well.

I should have access to a VCDS over the weekend. I am going to be as methodical as i can be with this.

1. I will change the coding to 00002-sport mode, DSP off. I'll drive it next week and see what happens

2. If I still have issues, I will try to get a gauge to read the line pressures. Maybe a local guru would have one and could spend an hour on diagnostics. aNut, you there?

3. I will change out the N92 and possibly the pressure control solenoid. I would prefer one at a time to isolate the cure, but I hate to drop it twice.

4. If all else fails, 5-speed swap! OK, that is wishful thinking at this point, my wife is still getting over the engine rebuild/turbo bill.

Richard, Oilhammer, thanks again.
Out of curiousity

 

[oilhammer]

From my experience, anything that is not the correct OEM/Penstosin synthetic/mineral oil based ATF causes troubles. BUT, in most cases I have seen, the ATF was not really 100% changed out. And, there are certainly enough 01Ms having problems all by themselves without ever having been touched, so I cannot say ATF type is automatically (no pun intended) a fail point. But it is one more variable I would rather not ever be added in to the mix.

 

[sdeck]

oilhammer,

I understand completely. FYI, it was changed as completely as possible without the cooler fittings; dropped pan, change filter, replace pan, fill, run drain, fill, run, drain, fill, run, drain, fill.

I guess I should add flush ATF w/ OEM fluid to my list, but at ~$200 it will have to be after the VCDS adapt and solenoid change.

One nice thing about being stuck in traffic is it gives a mind time to wander. I was thinking about this issue and the points OH and CAVW brought up. I also realized that most of the time, when I get a 2-3 clunk or flare, it happens a few times in a row. For example, if I let the car sit 2-3 days and then drive it, I sometimes get a clunk on the first 2-3 shift and then I usually get one on the next and following 2-3 shifts. flares follow a similar pattern, but usually when hot. Sounds to me more and more like a sticking solenoid. Hopefully, I can get the VCDS tomorrow and play with it this weekend.

 

[rackaracka]

Sounds to me like the wrong fluid could be causing your issues. The fact that things change when it heats up would make me think you have an oil level issue, or the wrong viscosity fluid.

 

[CoolAirVw]

oil pressure tap is next to the fill tube. Its 8mm x 1.0 which is very similar to 1/8 inch pipe thread that is commonly on pressure gauges. It is possible to screw 1/8 inch pipe thread into the 8mm x 1.0 hole and not ruin it, if you just run it in with your fingers. You'll probably have a leak though which will throw off your readings a bit to the low side. If you screw the 1/8 inch pipe thread in too hard, your not gonna be able to get the 8mm x 1.0 plug back in when your done. Which would be a mess to fix. I have a 8mm x 1.0 fitting but it came in a set of about 20 trans fittings and I doubt I could get one individually. Snap on may have one they could sell individually.

I suppose you could run a 8mm x 1.0 die down the 1/8 inch pipe thread fitting to make it fit the 01m.

My snap on ATF pressure gauge set has long hoses that reaches from trans into passenger compartment.

 

[LurkerMike]

We bought "Whitey", a 2000 TDI 01M car in 2006 with 60k miles on it.

I could not live with the soft shifts and waiting forever to shift into reverse.

I did the KERMA line pressure mod and switch to Amsoil ATF. The change was dramatic, as it shifted like an old Turbo 350 or 400, the way I liked it. There was only a few metal chips inside the filter and the pan had that silver-black gunk coating it about 1/8" thick. The OEM fluid was dark brown like muddy water.

Add a VNT-17, 357 nozzles, an RC-II tune and the car has seen hundreds of spinning right wheel launches.

I have changed the fluid and filter every 20k miles and only metal sparkles in the filter and the silver-black gunk coating the magnet.

There was the one time about 30k miles ago that I idled in gear with my foot on the brake for 30 minutes and the transmission flared and slipped until I got on the highway for 20 miles. I think it was severely overheated. I changed the fluid and filter and got some burnt brown paper chunks in the filter. But it has been fine since then.

But this weekend when my wife brought it home reporting the same conditions at the OP did, flaring on the highway and code 01192 - Torque Converter Lock-Up Clutch.

It now has 161k miles on it.

That's 100k hard wheel spinning miles with many miles driven to the maximum indicated speed of 120 mph. I have cruised over 100 mph for ~3 hours or so and for shorter durations as well... all on off-road closed race courses of course.

So I guess Oilhammer would tell me that Amsoil non-VW wrong transmission fluid has done me in? Live and learn I suppose.

In any case CoolAirVW, would you like to take a crack at the VB to see if that will buy me some more time despite my insistence on using the wrong transmission oil?

 

[sdeck]

I can say that the original complaint, TCC slippage on highway, has not reappeared since the VB rebuild.

Borrowing the VCDS today, but left the laptop at home, so I will reset to sport mode tonight.