And yet another Toyota swap, but M-Tdi.

JaysinSpaceman

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 5, 2008
Location
Skull County, Ca
TDI
Golf
ID parts sells them. No idea what the VW part number is though. I've heard it called the mickey mouse clip before.
Thanx very much I have one on order.

I really like your air box and the fuel filter mount :cool:


Thanks for the info on the power steering pump. Since I am going to pushing around 37s with hydro assist I need to do something with my pump as well. My buddies 4runner project is at my house and he has one of the upgraded Trail Gear TC pumps so I will take it apart and see what they did to it

http://www.trail-gear.com/ram-assist-pumps
I would bet that TG just removed the shims and added a slightly heaver relief spring or added a heavier spring and then shimmed for the pressure they wanted. I have read about some problems with jacking the pressure of these pumps too high. Things like shafts breaking and pump bodies cracking but I have no personal experience with these pumps besides what I have read.

all the custom fab work is awesome...can't wait to see and hear the finished product....your work is inspiring me to get back on my tig and get better at welding aluminum....
Jim, Please do get back on the horse and kick out some good TIG practice. If you don't already know about it go to weldingtipsandtricks.com he has some of the best and simplest advice on the web for welding. And believe me when I say that you are not the only one that wants to see and hear this thing run, I'm about to lose my mind if I don't get it on the road soon.

Thanx all,
Jaysin
 

CopaMundial

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 30, 2011
Location
Southeastern PA
TDI
03 Jetta Wagon 5sp (New to me Oct 2014) 03 Jetta 5sp (RIP Aug 2014)
Awesome work. Inspiring even.

I think I have a lead on where you can get a bed for that truck cheap.
Bit of body work needed, but you've obviously got the skills the pull it off.


 

JaysinSpaceman

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 5, 2008
Location
Skull County, Ca
TDI
Golf
So I kicked out a bit more work.

I was not liking the fact that the CCV system on these engines dumps so much oil into the intake system. Since I don't have an EGR system I wasn't worried about the soot buildup that occurs on stock engines but I still don't like the idea of having an intercooler and plumbing full of oil. In the past I have made several crankcase vent systems on various hotrods and engine swaps so I thought that I would try something similar here. I removed the CCV puck and pulled it apart to see what VW had going on inside, which isn't much. There isn't any real baffling inside and the out let (while having a little lip that oil has to get over) is on the bottom of the puck where oil pools, it really make sense that so much oil makes it through.

I built a new aluminum breather puck with the engine venting into the bottom and the exit at the top. It is filled with stainless steel wool (I've had similar setups on several gas engines) to collect oil droplets and a baffle at the top as a final obstacle for the liquid to have to go around.

It looks like this...





Hopefully it will do what I want it to and stop most (hopefully all) of the oil from passing into the intake system.

I also installed the EGT Thermocouple into an existing hole in the turbine housing on my BV43 turbo. Thanx to Jimbote I found out that a 14mm x 1.5 thread oil drain plug would fit so I purchased one and chucked it in the lathe to shorten the head and drill and tap for the pipe thread on the thermocouple adapter. In other words I made an adapter for the adapter.





Lastly, I laid out the VNT control using basically the same setup that Westyman used. A dawes device with vacuum from the vac pump pulling the vanes closed and boost pressure limiting the vacuum and opening the vanes. Time will tell how well it works but it seems to work well on Westyman stuff as well as others that run VNTs on Nissan Patrol diesels. I mounted the dawes device to the timing cover so that it will be easily accessible for adjustments. The dawes device can be found at 3barracing and the install setup can be found HERE.



I am trying to get all my ducks in a row so I can pull the engine to install the clutch and paint the engine compartment (I hate yellow) and these are some of the last things on my to do list before I pull the engine.

Thanx for tuning in,
Jaysin
 

JaysinSpaceman

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 5, 2008
Location
Skull County, Ca
TDI
Golf
Remember that exhaust brake that I built for this project, well I needed a way to switch it on and off. For a while I thought about trying to make it automatic but for all intents and purposes automatic is overkill and just adds too much complication so I decided that manual was the way to go (K.I.S.S.). I wanted the switch to be in a super accessible place where my hand would easily reach. The dash is just too far away, the trans tunnel between the seats might get a center console, even thought about a foot switch (like an old headlight stomp switch) but the possibility of accidentally engaging it seemed too high. Then I thought about the High/Low shifter knobs in big rigs and this seemed the perfect answer, the shifter is always within reach.





The switch itself will be under the shifter boot so that it doesn't stick out like a sore thumb. All that will be visible is the rod and knob (HA that sounds dirty). It's the little details that count, right?

Pull up to engage, push down to disengage. Seems simple enough.

Thanx for playing along,
Jaysin
 

jimbote

Certified Volkswagen Nut
Joined
Jul 10, 2006
Location
spiral arm, milky way (aka central NC)
TDI
Tacoma 4x4 converted to TDI
dude that "E" brake setup is sweet !! can't wait to hear the vid of that thing choking it down :).... that's how i mounted the cruise control on my 82' westy... all big trucker like ;)
 

JaysinSpaceman

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 5, 2008
Location
Skull County, Ca
TDI
Golf
dude that "E" brake setup is sweet !! can't wait to hear the vid of that thing choking it down :).... that's how i mounted the cruise control on my 82' westy... all big trucker like ;)
Thanx Jim, I really like the big trucks and the way they do things. I've got a 37 Chevy pickup with stacks too. If I could find an old big rig tractor I would probably drive it to the grocery store.


why did i just jiz my pants when i saw this thread!? that truck is amazing!
Thanx for the compliment. If you ever see it in person please bring your own towel.

Thanx,
Jaysin
 

Bczuk

Veteran Member
Joined
May 21, 2012
Location
Mission, BC
TDI
LWB Samurai - 2001 Jetta
Your attention to detail is amazing. I really like how the breather puck was made. Interested in hearing how the exhaust brakes works out
 

vanbcguy

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2013
Location
Vancouver, BC
TDI
'93 Passat - AHU mTDI with GTB1756VK
I'm curious about the exhaust brake too! I've heard that you have to be careful on the TDIs as the valve springs are only so strong - too much back pressure and you can push valves open. Not sure about the reality of that though.
 

JaysinSpaceman

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Joined
Aug 5, 2008
Location
Skull County, Ca
TDI
Golf
As far as the exhaust brake goes... Yes you could make enough back pressure to lift the exhaust valves off of their seats and cause damage. But you can do this with any engine not just TDis. You can also apply too much boost pressure with a turbo and do the same thing to the intake valves. It is fairly simple math to make sure you don't do this though. Exposed area of the valve head, basically radius(squared) x pi will give you the square inches of valve area or close enough, it is actually a safe number because it doesn't subtract the area of the stem and the area covered by the valve seat. You need the seated valve spring pressure. Then you divide the spring seat pressure by the area of the valve and this gives you the maximum back pressure or boost pressure in psi that you can safely run without lifting the valve off the seat. Personally, I subtract 10% from that number to give me a little extra margin of error room. In the case of the 1.9 TDi this number comes to about 45 psi back pressure before the valve lifts (if I remember right the boost pressure is maxed at 36 psi because of the larger intake valve area, but I'm just going from memory here). I am starting with about 28 psi max back pressure and we'll see just how much that puts the brakes on and if I need more I'll turn it up.

In truth though, theory is great and all but I really can't wait to see just how it works in real life.

I hope that answers some questions,
Jaysin
 

vanbcguy

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2013
Location
Vancouver, BC
TDI
'93 Passat - AHU mTDI with GTB1756VK
Cool, I think 45 psi was the number I had heard before too, same reason that's the upper limit for EMP when tuning a VNT.

How will the exhaust brake pressure be controlled?

Thanks for answering!
 

JaysinSpaceman

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 5, 2008
Location
Skull County, Ca
TDI
Golf
Cool, I think 45 psi was the number I had heard before too, same reason that's the upper limit for EMP when tuning a VNT.

How will the exhaust brake pressure be controlled?

Thanks for answering!
The pressure will be controlled by a waste gate that gets it's signal pressure from the down pipe between the engine and the exhaust butterfly valve, if you look back a few pages it is all there.

Update:

I don't really have any pictures to show (I will try to get some later) but I finished all of the fabrication work in the engine compartment and so I pulled the engine to to get ready to paint the engine compartment. I spent today swapping the new timing belt and and installing the modified mechanical 4bt injector pump. As per info I have found in various places here and elsewhere I set the pump timing at 1.1mm at TDC. I did have to modify the back timing cover to clear the flipped and machined AAZ adjustable pump sprocket, I had to remove the little lip so the hub would seat on the tapered pump shaft, not really a big deal.

I still need to pressure wash the engine compartment before I can paint it but it is raining here and I dont really want to push the out into the rain so that will have to wait. I still have plenty to do before then.

I wanted to ask a question about the oil pan gasket. I relocated the drain plug, since the engine now sits vertical instead of at an angle, to the now bottom of the pan and I had ordered a standard pan gasket but I have since noticed that there is a gasket with windage tray built in and I was wondering what people's thoughts are on this. I know that gas engines can really benefit from a proper windage tray to control the oil on the crank. However I didn't know if the slower revving diesels really needed it. I do want to get all the efficiency that I can so I am leaning towards getting one but I thought it would be nice to get some input here on people's experience.

I'll try to catch up on pictures soon.

Thanx,
Jaysin
 
Last edited:

vanbcguy

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2013
Location
Vancouver, BC
TDI
'93 Passat - AHU mTDI with GTB1756VK
The windage tray gasket is a great way to go if you plan on spending much time above 3k RPM. Plus they're fairly cheap. I seem to recall that VW used them in a lot of their industrial engine applications too. There's definitely nothing negative about them apart from a slightly higher cost.

Sent from my HTC One XL using Tapatalk
 

JaysinSpaceman

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Joined
Aug 5, 2008
Location
Skull County, Ca
TDI
Golf
That's kind of my thinking. Cheap, can't hurt, could see some efficiency gains as windage losses can add up and better oil control is always a plus (keeping the oil in the pan instead of sloshing around keeps oil pressure more stable). I guess that all I really needed was someone that saw it the same way.

Thanx,
Jaysin
 

JaysinSpaceman

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 5, 2008
Location
Skull County, Ca
TDI
Golf
Finally the guy updates this thread.

I am still working away on the body getting it ready to paint. The doors are ready to prime as is the cab, I just need to finish fixing the third hood that I bought (the original and the second one I bought were really stretched from someone or something climbing on them).

I pulled the engine and everything else out of the engine compartment to finish up a few things and shoot some fresh paint inside.

Before.


After.


For whatever reason the color looks a little pinkish in the picture but its not in real life, it's a light beige. The majority of the truck will be a medium dark green and the engine compartment and the roof will be this beige color.

I also relocated the oil drain plug. As we know in the original car the engine came from the engine leaned back a bit and now it is vertical so it just needed to be done if I wanted to drain ALL the oil at oil changes. I also found a oil pan gasket that has a built in windage tray (I saw it on here somewhere) so that got installed with the modified oil pan.







I also welded on a few other bungs that I had kind of forgotten, like the radiator drain and the boost pressure sensor on the intake manifold. Although I don't have pictures.

Seeing as there isn't an after market supplier of many of the interior parts I have had to try my hand at a new process. I sewed up my very first headliner. In the picture it is just held in with some paper clips so it is not real evenly tensioned but I think it came out pretty nice for my first real sewing experience.



I will keep plugging away at it and hopefully I will have primer on everything early next week and color by the week after. Having the engine compartment painted means that I can start putting everything back (while waiting for bondo, primer and paint) and hopefully it will also be running very soon.

Thanx,
Jaysin
 

JaysinSpaceman

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 5, 2008
Location
Skull County, Ca
TDI
Golf
Well now. As I continue to do body work I have also been sticking the engine back into its rightful place. The flywheel and clutch are all in, new brake and clutch masters plumbed up, the exhaust is back together, still figuring out the wiring.

The engine compartment filled with engine. Notice that the new paint doesn't look so pink now.



Lift pump and plumbing. 4-5 psi fuel pressure to feed the injector pump.


Doors with their first coat of high build primer ready to be blocked out.




And the hood. The metal work is done. It needed a bit of torch shrinking to tighten it up and a few dings taken out and now it sits with a skim of filler waiting to be sanded. Next is primer time.


It's a good feeling to have the engine in for the last time (cross my fingers) and to know I am about 4 hours of wiring away from getting it started. I can't f'ing wait.

That's the update for today.

Tune in soon,
Jaysin
 

cumminsfromthecold

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2006
Location
HumCo
TDI
'84 Toyota 1Z 4WD x-cab
Clean!

The lift pump is a good idea. I am getting bubbly fuel at WOT and need to find some time to do the same. What pump did you choose? Did you go with Viton filler-neck gasket and fuel lines or...?
 

JaysinSpaceman

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 5, 2008
Location
Skull County, Ca
TDI
Golf
The lift pump that I got is a Facet-purolator Posi-flow. They seem to have a good reputation and are said to work very well with the Bosch VE pumps (as read on Diesel Bombers and 4btswaps). I heard that it is just easier on the VE pumps if they don't have to pull fuel from tank all the way to the IP. And the Facet pump I got is only 3.5-5 psi but can pump 30 gph, not that I need that much (90% sure it's part# 60301, I'd have to go look to be positive). The posi-flow pumps will also allow fuel flow should the pump or power circuit fail, I guess that's a plus.

I didn't (yet) go with viton lines. I wanted to get it all up and going, everything sorted before I go spend the $6-10 a foot for it. For now I just got diesel rated line. Where I live I don't have biodiesel available without driving 50 miles. But I do hope to eventually change all the lines and find a supplier of B-100.

Thanx,
Jaysin
 

Chkn

Member
Joined
Feb 24, 2014
Location
Orange
TDI
2013 JSW
Looks clean. Did you use the Toyota fuel tank, or the TDI tank? Do you have any more pictures with the tank under the flatbed, I mean other than the ones you posted a few pages back?
 

JaysinSpaceman

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 5, 2008
Location
Skull County, Ca
TDI
Golf
I am using the stock Toyota fuel tank right now. It is a 17 gallon tank so it should give me a fair range, even if I only get 30 mpg the 17 gallon tank gets me 510 miles total. Eventually I'd like to build a bigger tank, I took measurements and should be able to push the size out enough to get 24 gallons in the stock location. I don't really have any more pictures of the tank as it sits under the flatbed and the bed won't be going back on until the paint is done but I will get some pictures once it is assembled.

Thanx,
Jaysin
 

JaysinSpaceman

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 5, 2008
Location
Skull County, Ca
TDI
Golf
Time for another update in this saga. I have been slaving away at this project. F*@&ing paint and body work. I have turned more bondo and high fill primer into sanding dust then I thought was possible. I am on my sixth (and hopefully last) quart of primer and I can see the light at the end of the tunnel. The hood, doors and fenders are completely blocked out and ready for paint and the cab has it's heavy coat of primer and is ready for blocking the end of this week.

Some pictures...

Hood, doors, and fenders.
The dark spots on the hood are where I came close to sanding through to filler that had some high spots.





The parts are hanging so that they don't get F'ed up before they get paint on them.

The primed cab.


I have also been working with my father doing up all the wiring. There was a bunch that needed to be removed (old emissions stuff) and new circuits to be added (engine glow plugs, coolant glow plugs, fuel cutoff valve, alternator wiring mods, electric fan, etc...). Plus the dual battery wiring and solenoid. More pictures...



The little black distribution block came from VW jettas and golfs (and I sure other models as well). It has 5 large fuses (up to 150amp) as well as 3 smaller 30 amp circuits.

Glow plug relays.

The relay that says Engine Glow above it is triggered by a momentary button in the cab, simple and straight forward. The coolant glow plugs are controlled by a "time delay relay" (the one in the middle) which will turn them on for 10 minutes during warm-up, it controls the high amp relay on the right that supplies the actual power. And so that they don't come on after the engine is up to temp the trigger signal goes through a temperature controlled switch that breaks the circuit at 95 degrees engine temp. I could see the time delay relays coming in handy for many different automotive circuits, they can be found at www.wolstentech.com.

The fuel filter is all plumbed.


And the throttle linkage. I had to extend the throttle arm on the injector pump so that the throttle pedal had more then one inch of travel, it now has about 2 1/2" travel from idle to WOT, so it should be very easily controllable and not hurky-jerky.


The transmission, transfer case, and axles have all been filled with Amsoil gear lubes for long life and I am still trying to decide what engine oil to run, I will definitely be running synthetic but other then that I haven't decided. If anyone has suggestions as to what engine oil is the best to go with post it up.

I am sure there are other things that I am forgetting but I am making progress. All the little details take for ever. All the fabrication I did was really the easy part of this build.

Thanx for playing along at home,
Jaysin
 

JaysinSpaceman

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 5, 2008
Location
Skull County, Ca
TDI
Golf
A tiny update. As I said before I have been working on the wiring. I hooked up the battery this morning and cranked the motor over to get oil pressure (had one leak that is now fixed) and the wiring so far seems to be correct. I know it's not much of an update but it was sure exciting to me that I could turn the key and have the engine crank over. One more step closer to hearing the thing run. YEAH!!

Jaysin
 

Ky_0686

New member
Joined
Mar 28, 2014
Location
Tolono, IL
TDI
90 Jetta NA 1.6L
Subscribe. That's a great project you've got going on there. I've been thinking about a conversion, but I don't think I have the skill set. You've definitely put in a lot of work! Keep it up!
 

JaysinSpaceman

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 5, 2008
Location
Skull County, Ca
TDI
Golf
Hey there,

Well I hit a bit of a milestone and decided it was a big enough thing that I had to make a video.

Video Link.

Still more to get done but very exciting to me.

I'll just keep plugging away and soon enough I'll be singing "on the road again".

Thanx,
Jaysin

P.S. If anyone can tell me how to embed a Flickr video here I would edit this post to include it.
 

cumminsfromthecold

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2006
Location
HumCo
TDI
'84 Toyota 1Z 4WD x-cab
Re. m-TDI Yota runs!

Congrats Jaysin! I was all nerves when I first fired mine up. Was truly elated when it just kept running and nothing flew off or broke :D You are close!

We're finishing up the shed-roof-mounted PV array near the woodshop at the main campus this Wed. at 4:30. Drop by if you're around.
 

JaysinSpaceman

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 5, 2008
Location
Skull County, Ca
TDI
Golf
Thanx guys~

I am still busting a$$ on it. My father and I are still doing the wiring. I know it's taking a long time but I hate electrical problems so we are putting a bit of extra effort here. I had to redo the glow plug circuits that I had because the draw was just too much for the original wires that I had used. Mostly the coolant glow plugs are the problem, with an inductive DC current meter I found that the three coolant glow plugs draw 68 amps which was threatening to light a few wires up (the draw drops a little to about 58 amps as the plugs warm up). So I relocated the relays and whatnot to make the supply wires much shorter and also upped them to 8 Gauge wire. The circuit uses a time delay relay from www.wolstentech.com that is triggered when the truck is started, it waits 30 seconds to 1:00 minute (adjustable) to turn the coolant plugs on (this way the engine settles into an even idle before a load is applied to the alt.), then they run for 5-10 minutes (also adjustable and I need to see how fast the engine warms up before a final setting is made). So this large draw could really cook wires since it is such a long time running.

The boost and EGT gauges are now functional along with the electric fan and fan controller.

I should receive my new spray gun Thursday and hopefully have it painted by the end of next week. Then it's time to install the interior, flatbed, compressor and house battery, etc... but it is getting closer to being on the road.

Thanx Again,
Jaysin
 
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