The standard 4cyl cam locking tool (1.6, AHU etc) works fine on the 2.0L and 2.4L motors. Just remove the two rear valve cover studs. No need to modify the tool. The special Volvo locking tool has its "ears" slightly farther apart so that they clear the shoulders on those rear studs but that is the only difference. Depth and thickness are the same. The studs are easy to zip out.
Make sure you get enough torque on that front crank bolt. There's a reason that wrench extension bar is so long. Many of these engines wrecked by a front bolt not quite tight enough. Aside from the huge fastener torque there is not much that keeps that crank sprocket on there.
Smart plan to measure piston protrusion, you don't want the headgasket any thicker than it has to be. Many of these were put together with too thick a gasket straight from the factory. Too much gasket and they are quickly way down on off-boost pep and hard to start when warm. Layered steel headgaskets are available for the 2.4L and worth using. Haven't ever tried to find one for a five.
Those notches on the IP and its bracket are worth paying attention to -- be sure to line the pump up with the bracket, or even rotated towards the outside of it, when reassembling. The pump sits tighter against the motor on the fives and sixes than it does on the fours, not a problem with the NA motors, but on the turbos the aneroid on the top of the pump is tall and wide enough that if the pump is rotated inward towards the engine beyond those marks the rear two injectors become impossible to remove. No fun to have to retime the motor just so that you can get a couple of injectors out. Best way to set timing on these is by rotating the rear cam sprocket in relation to the cam, rather than changing the position of the pump a la 1.6/1z/ahu. Much faster and easier and allows you to put the pump in exactly the place you want it while leaving the timing as a separate concern.
While you are there good idea as well to check the thermostatic cold start device before getting it on the road, pretty good guarantee it is inop and when they fail, they fail in the cold (advanced) position and stick there even when the engine is warm -- not what you want if you're hoping to have the motor last. Don't forget to disengage it and spin the pump a few times before setting static timing, or it won't run too good!
Nice build, should be fun! I have never seen one with that rear-mounted vacuum pump. Looks like a better setup than the cam-driven type...
Make sure you get enough torque on that front crank bolt. There's a reason that wrench extension bar is so long. Many of these engines wrecked by a front bolt not quite tight enough. Aside from the huge fastener torque there is not much that keeps that crank sprocket on there.
Smart plan to measure piston protrusion, you don't want the headgasket any thicker than it has to be. Many of these were put together with too thick a gasket straight from the factory. Too much gasket and they are quickly way down on off-boost pep and hard to start when warm. Layered steel headgaskets are available for the 2.4L and worth using. Haven't ever tried to find one for a five.
Those notches on the IP and its bracket are worth paying attention to -- be sure to line the pump up with the bracket, or even rotated towards the outside of it, when reassembling. The pump sits tighter against the motor on the fives and sixes than it does on the fours, not a problem with the NA motors, but on the turbos the aneroid on the top of the pump is tall and wide enough that if the pump is rotated inward towards the engine beyond those marks the rear two injectors become impossible to remove. No fun to have to retime the motor just so that you can get a couple of injectors out. Best way to set timing on these is by rotating the rear cam sprocket in relation to the cam, rather than changing the position of the pump a la 1.6/1z/ahu. Much faster and easier and allows you to put the pump in exactly the place you want it while leaving the timing as a separate concern.
While you are there good idea as well to check the thermostatic cold start device before getting it on the road, pretty good guarantee it is inop and when they fail, they fail in the cold (advanced) position and stick there even when the engine is warm -- not what you want if you're hoping to have the motor last. Don't forget to disengage it and spin the pump a few times before setting static timing, or it won't run too good!
Nice build, should be fun! I have never seen one with that rear-mounted vacuum pump. Looks like a better setup than the cam-driven type...