Alternator Re & Re 'How To'

[Genesis]

Yep.

Unclip the wire to the AC compressor, unbolt the AC compressor but do not open the lines. Move it out of the way (get a piece of coat hanger or similar to hang it from so you don't damage the hoses or wiring.) This is easy as it's right "in your face" (from the bottom.)

Remove the pax side fan by unscrewing the spider and unclipping the connector. It will come out.

The alternator will now come -- it's tight, but it makes it.

 

[oldpoopie]

I just did another one. 45min from start to finish.

 

[Tom Brown]

I just did another one. 45min from start to finish.

No poopie?

I'm not a professional mechanic but I've restored two cars and worked on a whole lot of others. I wouldn't pretend to be the fastest but I doubt I'm the slowest. There must be some variance between cars. Specifically, I suspect the A/C line position varies. My fan wouldn't fit between the rad and the line. The engine has been out of the car for a rebuild, before my time as owner. Maybe they repositioned the line a bit with some bending.

It sounds like either my car was the exception or I'm just not on the ball. Either way, this how-to and this group have been exceptionally helpful.



I'm currently motoring through Minnesota on a voyage from Western Canada to Florida and my old Golf is running like brand new. These cars are a treat on the highway. I particularly like how it drives. The ride isn't the most evolved but there is something about the handling that leaves me relatively unfatigued after 14 hours on the road. The range is unbeatable, too.

 

[oldpoopie]

No poopie?

I'm not a professional mechanic but I've restored two cars and worked on a whole lot of others. I wouldn't pretend to be the fastest but I doubt I'm the slowest. There must be some variance between cars. Specifically, I suspect the A/C line position varies. My fan wouldn't fit between the rad and the line. The engine has been out of the car for a rebuild, before my time as owner. Maybe they repositioned the line a bit with some bending.

It sounds like either my car was the exception or I'm just not on the ball. Either way, this how-to and this group have been exceptionally helpful.

.

LOL

I still want to see a photo. snap one the next time you do an oil change!

 

[vwlogue]

Wow, 14.1 volt never looked so good on the multimeter! Excellent howto and plenty of great tips on this thread!

Been limping around for short trips for a few months, no wiper, no heat, no stereo, no driving at night and charging the battery when the car comes home. Finally had the time to R&R on Xmas day, now that my frozen shoulder feels much better. Dennis at Metalman Parts/Marquette got a reman Bosch 120A with pulley to my house in 1 day with free UPS shipping for a very reasonable price.

I tried both top and bottom approaches, but could only get it out from the bottom. Had to gently knock the AC comp out from the top with a long extension, as it was stuck much harder than the alternator. No problem getting the alternator back in once I could snake and finagle it through those damn coolant hoses. As with the AC compressor, before putting it back on, I sprayed penetrating oil on the bushings and slowly tapped them all the way back toward the back.

The whole thing took a lot longer than everyone else here, but I had fun letting my 9 yr-old wrenched some bolts out and helped me get things removed. Couldn't remove the AC compressor without his assistance from the top.

If anyone in Northern VA/DC Metro needs assistance with this job, let me know and I'd be happy to assist.

 

[climbtheplanet]

I just came across this, a site with a NEW Bosch or Valeo alternator with pulley for $289 and no core charge.

http://www.germanautoparts.com/productdisplay/59193

I emailed them to ask if they were really selling new, not reman units at this price and this is there response:

"Thank you for your inquiry. These alternators are brand new per the description. They will be either Bosch or Valeo brand, both were original equipment. We have either brand in stock depending on availability (sometimes one brand or the other is on backorder from the manufacturer so what is on the shelf is always changing but we will always have at least one of them).

If you have a preference we can do our best to accommodate it depending on availability. Both are equal in quality."

I don't have any information on the company, maybe some members have experience with them and I am curious to know if it is a good source of parts. If it is and anyone is wanting a new and not reman unit, this may be a good source. And at that price, without a core charge, if you have a good pulley you can keep your old one and use it down the road if you have a failure, saving another 60 bucks. Same with the voltage regulator I suppose.

 

[climbtheplanet]

Are there any major issues with replacing the alternator pulley with a clutch pulley or non clutch pulley system? Are there any pros or cons about doing such a thing??/
Thanks!

I too had this question and someone posted this in another thread where we were discussing it. It turns out there is a good reason NOT to replace a clutched pulley with a solid one. Here is the post:



This video explains the reasons for clutched pulley and the reason they are used in engines with inherent vibration or power spikes (for example, diesel engines):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rXehC...utu.be&t=1m42s

Basically the belt will bounce more with a solid pulley. This will cause additional noise as well as faster wear on your alternator, the belt and tensioner.

 

[vwlogue]

Good find on germanautoparts.

Here's an excellent video on ALH serpentine belt replacement, courtesy of ExoVCDS. It will give you a pretty clear idea on how to get started from the bottom:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aUuV44vgeTw

 

[POWERSTROKE]

Good find on germanautoparts.

Here's an excellent video on ALH serpentine belt replacement, courtesy of ExoVCDS. It will give you a pretty clear idea on how to get started from the bottom:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aUuV44vgeTw

Wrong amperage....

 

[ymz]

Wrong amperage....

Really? They're selling a 120 amp unit... they say it replaces the 70 and 90 amp units...

Yuri

 

[Jakobicev]

Different alt connectors,old vs new type

Hello there

Long story short,my OEM 120A Hitachi alternator died last Saturday,it's impossible to find parts here in Croatia so I replaced it with a used (worked good on previous car so said the seller) 120 A Bosch unit but apparently a older type that has a square type connector.

The square connector one has "D+" and "DF" terminals and a "one side oval" connector has "L" and "DFM" terminals.
I know that "D+" is same as "L" pin but since unsure about "DF" (digital field connector) and "DFM" (digital field monitor connector) pin's I leaved it unconnected cause the wires go to the ECU and I'm afrait to fry something.

The alternator has a charge now but not instantly after start up,a little bit of throttle is needed (1100-1200 rpm) to get the charge voltage right.
Could that be the problem or maybe internal fault like voltage regulator or some diodes are bad.

I posted here since almost all work is done and I apologize if this is not the right place to post this question,in that case I'l open a separate thread in appropriate subforum

 

[Ron 33]

Thanks for keeping these old threads around.

Just changed out my alternator (they don't last as long as they used to) on my 2000 Jetta. 339,400 miles.

Time to donate to Fred.

 

[takiman]

Hello there

Long story short,my OEM 120A Hitachi alternator died last Saturday,it's impossible to find parts here in Croatia so I replaced it with a used (worked good on previous car so said the seller) 120 A Bosch unit but apparently a older type that has a square type connector.

The square connector one has "D+" and "DF" terminals and a "one side oval" connector has "L" and "DFM" terminals.
I know that "D+" is same as "L" pin but since unsure about "DF" (digital field connector) and "DFM" (digital field monitor connector) pin's I leaved it unconnected cause the wires go to the ECU and I'm afrait to fry something.

The alternator has a charge now but not instantly after start up,a little bit of throttle is needed (1100-1200 rpm) to get the charge voltage right.
Could that be the problem or maybe internal fault like voltage regulator or some diodes are bad.

I posted here since almost all work is done and I apologize if this is not the right place to post this question,in that case I'l open a separate thread in appropriate subforum

I don't know the answer but maybe these links can help you?

http://apps.bosch.com.au/AAExtranet_TechSearch/docs/servicebulletin/A0022.1.pdf

http://www.ktr-sa.co.za/docs/doc.cfm?fileName=175_Alternators_-_KTR.pdf.

http://www.qxcomponents.co.uk/tech.pdf

 

[brotha bran]

Figured instead of starting a whole new thread I'd just tag along to this one.

After struggling mightily to get the original out of the car, my gut sunk a little when I pulled the reman'd one out of the Bosch box and saw that it is labelled a 90A. According to my order from IDparts though, I ordered a 120A, the correct model for my 2003 Golf 5spd. Any input on what's up? Could it be Bosch used a 90A case when remanufacturing it or something? Before I put this one in I want to make double sure it's what I need, as I never want to have to do this job again. I have emailed the guys at IDparts but it's the weekend so I am not sure when I'll hear back for sure. Here's some photos of the two for comparison sake:

Old:

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New:

 

[RacerTodd]

Automatics got a 90A, manual trans cars the 120A. The extra amperage is due the the manual cars having three coolant glowplugs that need extra juice.

 

[brotha bran]

Right, but I guess my question is, and maybe I just need an answer from idparts, but is it possible they either shipped me a 90a instead by mistake, or what? Because my original was 120a, and this remanufactured one has 90a on it.

 

[takiman]

If you selected the alternator and did not put a note in comments to indicate you have a manual - maybe a mistake did happen in shipping. In any case - I have no idea why you would debate this here and instead - call idparts and have it exchanged. You know you need a 120A so might as well get it done.

 

[brotha bran]

Not really debating it I guess, just looking for help on a forum, a place where that is the main purpose. I said in my original post it's the weekend so my contacting them hasn't yielded results yet. I am going to call first thing tomorrow (Monday) morning, but until then I didn't know if any of the numerous people on here who have no doubt had to do the alternator job had any input. Also said in my original post that I am well aware of the model I need for my vehicle, but was curious if there was any possibility of it actually being a 120A even if it doesn't say that. Guess one shouldn't ask questions on a forum anymore?

 

[Windex]

Guess one shouldn't ask questions on a forum anymore?

No, not at all, ask all the questions you want, I think the suggestion was more toward this particular thread, which is intended as a how-to for alternator replacement, not really meant to be an open discussion thread on other alternator related issues.

Feel free to create another thread in 101 or the MK4 forum, you may get more opinions.

 

[takiman]

Not really debating it I guess, just looking for help on a forum, a place where that is the main purpose. I said in my original post it's the weekend so my contacting them hasn't yielded results yet. I am going to call first thing tomorrow (Monday) morning, but until then I didn't know if any of the numerous people on here who have no doubt had to do the alternator job had any input. Also said in my original post that I am well aware of the model I need for my vehicle, but was curious if there was any possibility of it actually being a 120A even if it doesn't say that. Guess one shouldn't ask questions on a forum anymore?

Brotha - I didn't mean to sound cross. I meant - debate in this how to thread but the general guidance would still be to call and have it swapped.

My apologies. Having asked some really simple and dumb questions myself - I do not ever intend to pretend like the forum isn't the right place to do so.

Have a better week!!!

 

[jnkyrdfourd]

just took off my alt using this thread as a guide, it wasn't that bad, the po had replaced the alt before I bought the car and beat up the radiator pretty bad and broke one of the ears off the alt, looks like an autozoo alt, it was working ok just the pulleys didn't line up correctly, it has the clutched pulley but it was about 1/4in out to far and eatin up belts.

 

[goosehead]

Thanks for the help

This thread was much more helpful than the Bentley manual. Just swapped the alternator on my 01 nb in a little under four hours. Still not easy, but it was nice to see what I was getting in to ahead of time. I wouldn't have thought the alt would fit between that bracket and the radiator on my own!

 

[SgtPete]

Today I replaced my clutch pulley for second time. First time, three years ago, around 145K the pulley self destructed, so back then I removed the alternator and had it rebuilt locally. It was cheaper to have a local shop rebuilt it than to purchase a rebuilt. However they put on a Brazilian built clutch pulley. If you go this way, have the shop put a German built pulley on it.

All was well till 172K when heard that intermittent groans and observed the tensioner jumping. I first thought I could replace it on the car, but I could not develop enough force (hard to install cheater bars in this space) to break the pulley off the shaft, see other post that use a modified shaft key. The a clutch pulley removal kit was purchase from IDparts for $29. I remove the alternator the hard way as explained above. But I removed the clutch pulley using my air impact wench, counter clockwise, 22 mm deep socket on the 32 tooth sprocket tool that came with the removal kit. There was no need to us the shaft tool to prevent movement. It just spun off using the air impact wench. Much more effective than fighting with two wenches with cheater bars.

 

[loudspl]

Just an FYI if anyone didn't already know...

MKIV cars can also fit the 140 amp alternator off the commonrail.

It has a bit larger stator, 6-groove clutched pulley, and is slightly heavier vs. the 90A or 120A

You can get it from Peter here:

http://www.idparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=123_129&products_id=2400

Or from AutoZone here:

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/_/N-93xme?itemIdentifier=88017_0_0_


I'm currently running this on my MKIV and it works great

 

[cidades]

Just an FYI if anyone didn't already know...

MKIV cars can also fit the 140 amp alternator off the commonrail.

It has a bit larger stator, 6-groove clutched pulley, and is slightly heavier vs. the 90A or 120A

You can get it from Peter here:

http://www.idparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=123_129&products_id=2400

Or from AutoZone here:

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/_/N-93xme?itemIdentifier=88017_0_0_


I'm currently running this on my MKIV and it works great

Good to know
Does the belt align perfectly?

 

[loudspl]

Good to know
Does the belt align perfectly?

It did on my car so it should work on most/all MKIVs. No guarantees though!

 

[cheezy]

99 NB, 210K, got into town late last night to cruise the Subaru lot before going home....the car caught me looking at WRXs and started to emit the weird noises of small bearings/light grazing of parts that should not be touching/holy crap get it home quick noises. In the driveway this morn started her up and got the same weird noises worthy of a click n clack phone call.

Could not see noticeable jump in the serp belt, occasionally I could/would imagine smelling a burning rubber stink in the recent past, but not yesterday or today. Noticed very small silver wire-like shavings on the serp belt exterior, just about 1/4" long. I HAD noticed that my headlights had seemed a shade bit dimmer last night on the freeway.

Did this job in the driveway this aft., feeling good with self-reliance BS, and remembering that tomorrow my old man body will ask me ..." *** are you doing spending afternoons laying in the driveway again...".

So, the alternator will go to a local re-build shop for bench testing, and I'd like to just replace the pulley no matter what. Is it normal to replace the wheel on the tensioner as well? That part looks the most beat and abused of all the lot.

Ordered the tool set from MetalNerd, who to order the pulley and wheel from? Why does this stuff always seem to happen in November?

Thanks for any feedback.

 

[Ricosuave]

Just wanted to say thanks for the detailed post OP

 

[franklin]

Just finished my alt change. Never could have done it without this.. Thanks!

 

[gsnascar.nut]

Thanks for all of the great help. My $.02 worth. I made a tool to help remove the A/C compressor. I used a bolt, a piece of 1/2" conduit, and some large nuts to make up spacers and used ot on the back side of the front AC compressor mount. Here is a picture of the tool and the orientation of the tool and how to use it.

Once the compressor is loose, I laid it on a milk crate which gave me plenty of room to get the alternator out. I left the lower alternator mounting bolt on and used a hammer to tap the sleeve back to help get the alternator out. I had to replace the alternator pulley and the tensioner due to the alternator pulley locking up. I checked the alternator bearings and the regulator/brush assembly and they are still in good shape after 350k miles.