Alternator Question

Ragdude

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 18, 2021
Location
Phx
TDI
2015 VW Golf SEL TDi
If there's anymore popcorn left go ahead and throw it at me maybe it'll stick to the egg on my face. Yeah I thought I needed to see the coils spinning. While adding gear oil yesterday I looked at the alternator and thought why is it charging the battery? Looking at the pulley I realized/remembered that the coil is stationary on an alternator and the magnets spin within the coil... I had wanted to see a type of motor/generator that as far as I know doesn't actually exist I guess. I hope I posted this in TDI 101...
No worries, everyone makes mistakes
 

tdihopeful

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 23, 2008
Location
California
TDI
03 2dr 5sp Golf
Well I am ready to install a new Clutch and Single piece flywheel. Installed new thane forward a arm bushings. New exhaust gaskets and nuts and cleaned EGR and Manifold. I have new tie rod ends to install. Would like to be installing new urethane subframe bushings and engine mount bushings but don't have them available. Want to get the car back together running and driving. I have one issue that isn't a real concern short term but it's this. When I ordered my Sachs solid flywheel conversion kit I thought it would be at least somewhat resistant to rust being that I was told there was a rust inhibitor coating that needed to be cleaned off of the flywheel face and or clutch disk. Well after sitting on the dirt floor in my house I was horrified to see the everything other than the flywheel with relatively huge quantities of rust. The rust seems to be surface rust and relatively superficial in nature but still a concern for longevity of the components I would imagine. Should I just run them or attempt to remove as much rust as possible with a product such as evaporust? I understand that vinegar or other acids are good at rust removal and if I use a rust remover should I then hit everything with a dusting of Rust-Oleum with the actual pads and contact surfaces masked off? I don't have evaporust at the moment and vinegar is the only option. Problem is the high content of water in the vinegar basically causes the rust to start to appear almost immediately after it's removed.
 

TurboABA

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 24, 2010
Location
Kitchener, ON
TDI
RIP-2010 Jetta 6spd 2014 Touareg Execline
Are you saying that you're all worked up about the metal part of the disk showing signs of oxidation? Who cares? Unless you run your clutch in a salt bath or something, you'll wear out the clutch long before that surface rust gets a change to corrode the structural integrity of your disk plate.
Post a pic so we can see what's causing you all this stress.
 

jmodge

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 18, 2015
Location
Greenville, MI
TDI
2001 alh Jetta, RC2 5speed daily commuter and 2000 alh Jetta 5spd swap, 2" lift, hitch, stage 3 TDtuning w/502's backroad cruiser
I’m curious about the Dirt floor in your house
 

jmodge

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 18, 2015
Location
Greenville, MI
TDI
2001 alh Jetta, RC2 5speed daily commuter and 2000 alh Jetta 5spd swap, 2" lift, hitch, stage 3 TDtuning w/502's backroad cruiser
I had started replying to that, but then I decided to restrain myself....
I was hoping you would so I wouldn’t have to . I have a hard time restraining myself from cheese, chocolate cookies, and sarcastic comments
 

jmodge

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 18, 2015
Location
Greenville, MI
TDI
2001 alh Jetta, RC2 5speed daily commuter and 2000 alh Jetta 5spd swap, 2" lift, hitch, stage 3 TDtuning w/502's backroad cruiser
I’m out of cheese and cookies
 

tdihopeful

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 23, 2008
Location
California
TDI
03 2dr 5sp Golf
I don't understand the need for sarcastic comments I was literally explaining the place where I stored the clutch kit. I actually have a dirt floor. I didn't realize I was "all worked up" or "stressing" thought I said in my post that it's not a real concern short term... JFC... Some metal corrodes extremely fast and is mechanically compromised in a very short time. I was asking if I should worry. It's not a concern on the flywheel but the clutch part with the pads is comprised of numerous rivets and some thin metal in places. Enough of that I'll deal with it how I see fit. Here is what should be an easier question(s) and should have a yes or no answer(s). Is it necessary to add a little oil to the turbo oil inlet before reconnecting the turbo inlet line after both the intake and return have been off for a while? Will oil pressure build and fill the line to the turbo in sufficient time after the engine is back together and started?
 

TurboABA

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 24, 2010
Location
Kitchener, ON
TDI
RIP-2010 Jetta 6spd 2014 Touareg Execline
You're not posting pic so I can't see how corroded anything is. Also, are you calling the oil feed a turbo inlet now?
 

csstevej

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 12, 2004
Location
north nj
TDI
2001 golf tdi 4 door auto now a manual, mine, 2000 golf 2 door M/T son's,daughters 98 NB non-TDI 2.0, 2003 TDI NB for next daughter, head repaired and on road,gluten for punishment got another tdi 2001NB,another yellow tdi NB
I wouldn’t worry about the rust…..if it makes you feel better use red scotch Brite to take off anything…..as soon as you engage the first couple of times it will clear off……similar to brake rotors on a car when not driven for awhile in damp weather…
As far as the turbo…..what I’ve personally done is with a squeeze bottle force some oil down the inlet fitting before putting line on…..afterwards I disconnect the power lead to the IP fuel shut off and crank the engine at least 2 or 3 times for about 15 seconds then reconnect the wire and fire her up…..but that’s how I do it…..
 

jmodge

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 18, 2015
Location
Greenville, MI
TDI
2001 alh Jetta, RC2 5speed daily commuter and 2000 alh Jetta 5spd swap, 2" lift, hitch, stage 3 TDtuning w/502's backroad cruiser
I don't understand the need for sarcastic comments I was literally explaining the place where I stored the clutch kit. I actually have a dirt floor. I didn't realize I was "all worked up" or "stressing" thought I said in my post that it's not a real concern short term... JFC... Some metal corrodes extremely fast and is mechanically compromised in a very short time. I was asking if I should worry. It's not a concern on the flywheel but the clutch part with the pads is comprised of numerous rivets and some thin metal in places. Enough of that I'll deal with it how I see fit. Here is what should be an easier question(s) and should have a yes or no answer(s). Is it necessary to add a little oil to the turbo oil inlet before reconnecting the turbo inlet line after both the intake and return have been off for a while? Will oil pressure build and fill the line to the turbo in sufficient time after the engine is back together and started?
Toward you it was actually curiosity not sarcasm. But when TbA quoted me....when in Rome, speak the language. Very rare in these parts, only recall seeing it once myself. Anyway, as stated, wire brush it or similar and blow it off good with air. Previous post covers it pretty good
 

tdihopeful

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 23, 2008
Location
California
TDI
03 2dr 5sp Golf
On the clutch release lever there are two thin metal clips that the release bearing rides on. These are not present in the Bentley Service Manual exploded view and parts description diagram. On my car these clips are broken. I don't have replacements. Can I polish the arm where these clips were and go without? I imagine it'll be fine for a while if I did. Also there is a small plastic piece that sits under the retaining spring for the clutch release lever not pictured or referenced in the Bentley. That was broken. I imagine same scenario as with the previously mentioned metal clips. Perhaps a slight tweak to the retaining spring to help it stay in place without the plastic retaining clip for the uhhhh (tired) retaining spring?
 

AndyBees

Top Post Dawg
Joined
May 27, 2003
Location
Southeast Kentucky
TDI
Silver 2003 Jetta TDI, Silver 2000 Jetta TDI (sold), '84 Vanagon with '02 ALH engine
I don't understand the need for sarcastic comments I was literally explaining the place where I stored the clutch kit. I actually have a dirt floor. I didn't realize I was "all worked up" or "stressing" thought I said in my post that it's not a real concern short term... JFC... Some metal corrodes extremely fast and is mechanically compromised in a very short time. I was asking if I should worry. It's not a concern on the flywheel but the clutch part with the pads is comprised of numerous rivets and some thin metal in places. Enough of that I'll deal with it how I see fit. Here is what should be an easier question(s) and should have a yes or no answer(s). Is it necessary to add a little oil to the turbo oil inlet before reconnecting the turbo inlet line after both the intake and return have been off for a while? Will oil pressure build and fill the line to the turbo in sufficient time after the engine is back together and started?
I would squirt or drip some oil into the Turbo oil inlet before re-installing the hard line. The majority of the oil will drain out the bottom of the Turbo. But, oil never hurts moving parts. The oil pump will fill the hard pipe and Turbo very quick upon starting of the engine. The Turbo will barely be spinning at idle compared to what it is expected to do!

Surface rust isn't going to hurt anything. I hope you will be satisfied with the SMF. I like a DMF much better. I actually installed one on the TDI engine in my Vanagon..... super quiet and very smooth shifting!

I would strongly consider replacing the clutch release lever!
 

PakProtector

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 5, 2014
Location
AnnArbor, MI
TDI
Mk.4 and the Cummins-es
Second Andy on replacing the lever. Those wee bits are harder so that crud pushed into the plastic body of the bearing does not start sawing through the softer stamping. Getting the gearbox out is too big a PITA for me to consider skimping on bits locked in between the engine and trans.
cheers,
Douglas
 

tdihopeful

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 23, 2008
Location
California
TDI
03 2dr 5sp Golf
I imagine that the small clips on the clutch release lever are not available separately from the lever. Also it appears to me that the "actuator" that is bolted to the transmission and is on the end of the lever with the clutch release lever spring retainer is available in different styles. Ok not an actuator it's a pivot for the clutch release lever. This is known as a clutch release ball pin. I'm seeing the one on my car seems to be made to ride against a single ball bearing. I suppose that the clutch release lever retaining spring retains the ball bearing? I didn't see this ball bearing on my car. Could explain what seemed to be excessive wear on the release lever pivot point and the clutch release ball pin. The clutch release ball pin on my car has a divot or dimple in the center that would not itself be an acceptable pivot point for the release lever pivot point. A version of the clutch lever ball pin I see available has a dome shape and seemingly eliminates the need for a ball bearing or other intermediaries for the pivot point. Available for Porsche and VW/Audi these ball pins look basically the same.
 

tdihopeful

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 23, 2008
Location
California
TDI
03 2dr 5sp Golf
Ok I think the little broken rubber/plastic piece on the clutch lever held a ball bearing and the retaining spring. It's going back together whatever the scenario. I think I'll order the lever and get as fast shipping as I can afford. To me removing the trans wasn't that bad other than the lack of a garage/flat and hard surface, transmission lift and engine brace... Exhaust gaskets replacement and Intake/EGR cleaning was worse to me but now that's completed. Another thing is I want to grease the CV's and replace the boots. Can I do this without needing to remove the axels from the wheel bearings/steering knuckles? I don't have new bearing not a press. If there isn't a viable or usual way I was considering cutting the new boots and then gluing the cut seam back together. Probably hasn't been done that way before and wouldn't necessarily be easy but could work.
 

tdihopeful

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 23, 2008
Location
California
TDI
03 2dr 5sp Golf
The old boots had only the large retaining band on and not the small band. I don't have the tool to do those bands. Would heavy duty cable ties suffice?
 

jmodge

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 18, 2015
Location
Greenville, MI
TDI
2001 alh Jetta, RC2 5speed daily commuter and 2000 alh Jetta 5spd swap, 2" lift, hitch, stage 3 TDtuning w/502's backroad cruiser
Order a release lever, pivot pin, and retaining clip
 

Tdijarhead

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Nov 10, 2013
Location
Lawrenceville PA
TDI
2003 TDI Jetta Daughters Car, 2001 TDI Beetle, Daughters car, 2005 Golf TDI Mine, all 5 spds
With out a new pivot pin and clip you’ll be doing this job again in a day or two. Likewise with out a new release bearing. Never skimp on parts when putting these back together. New pivot pin, clip, release bearing, clutch arm and I always do a rear seal in addition to a new clutch.
 

tdihopeful

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 23, 2008
Location
California
TDI
03 2dr 5sp Golf
I ordered the lever, ball pin and spring. I noticed there seemed to be quite a bit of gunk in the bell housing on the trans. I don't know how much would be considered normal. Obviously part of the gunk would be clutch pad particulate but the greasy component would that be from a bad "rear seal" and rear seal is the trans gasket? Or could it be from the engine crank seal? At this point I'm not going to be replacing anything other than the parts just ordered. My clutch kit came with a release bearing. Also is there a way to check transmission fluid while it's off of the car?
 

jmodge

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 18, 2015
Location
Greenville, MI
TDI
2001 alh Jetta, RC2 5speed daily commuter and 2000 alh Jetta 5spd swap, 2" lift, hitch, stage 3 TDtuning w/502's backroad cruiser
Another thing that may need replacing is the guide that the throw out bearing rides on. It’s thin steel that wears out. The input shaft seal will come already installed in it. If your throw out bearing hangs up on it you will have clutch function issues. Do your fluid after installation
 

tdihopeful

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 23, 2008
Location
California
TDI
03 2dr 5sp Golf
I don't know the procedure to check transmission fluid. I read or was told that it's a sealed transmission with lifetime fluid. The release bearing tube on my car seems to be good with very little wear. I did find a lavender o-ring randomly in the engine bay. It's approximately 3/4 in in diameter and 1/8 in thick round profile. I don't know where it was from or if it's even related to the car. I don't think my order ships until Monday maybe I can get that seal added.
 

AndyBees

Top Post Dawg
Joined
May 27, 2003
Location
Southeast Kentucky
TDI
Silver 2003 Jetta TDI, Silver 2000 Jetta TDI (sold), '84 Vanagon with '02 ALH engine
Drain the transmission and fill with Pennzoil Synchromesh Fluid..

There is one drain plug on the bottom near the Diff. The fill hole is on the front side behind the power steering black steel pipe. Both require the use of a 17mm allen style tool to remove.

 

csstevej

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 12, 2004
Location
north nj
TDI
2001 golf tdi 4 door auto now a manual, mine, 2000 golf 2 door M/T son's,daughters 98 NB non-TDI 2.0, 2003 TDI NB for next daughter, head repaired and on road,gluten for punishment got another tdi 2001NB,another yellow tdi NB
If your gonna do the transmission oil change, please make sure you remove the fill plug first before draining the trans oil..sometimes the oil fill plug can be a bear if someone before you muscled it on , it only needs to be snugged down , not torque to god knows what…….ask me how I know that one……
 

tdihopeful

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 23, 2008
Location
California
TDI
03 2dr 5sp Golf
I hate when things get cross-threaded and stripped out Allen key heads stripped and so forth. It shows lack of care and people who do such things should'nt have things. The previous owners of my car shouldn't have had they're hands on it in my opinion. I found a freaking socket behind the wheel well plastic along with a bunch of rust and sand that was covered up with cardboard and Bondo. Like a horror story of a surgeon dropping a scalpel in the patient and sewing them up.
 

Tdijarhead

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Nov 10, 2013
Location
Lawrenceville PA
TDI
2003 TDI Jetta Daughters Car, 2001 TDI Beetle, Daughters car, 2005 Golf TDI Mine, all 5 spds
2 quarts of Penzoil synchromesh (yellow bottle) will set you up with smooth shifts. Change the oil after you get the transmission reinstalled. You’re supposed to fill it with the car level however I fill it with the front slightly elevated like you do for a tire change. The transmission will take almost the entire contents of the 2 quarts if it’s somewhat elevated. You fill it till oil starts running out the fill hole.

The oil should be changed every 100k or so. Some change it when doing the timing belt.
 

Powder Hound

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Oct 25, 1999
Location
Under a Bridge, Crestview, FL, USA
TDI
'00 Golf 4dr White 5sp, '02 Jettachero 5sp, Wife's '03 NB Platinum Gray auto(!)
... I read or was told that it's a sealed transmission with lifetime fluid....
This was for the ill regarded 01M autobox and therefore does not apply to your transaxle. That the autobox should have regular fluid replacements for best performance anyway does not apply here.

For manual boxes, I like to replace mine every 100k miles. For the 02J box we have in the ALH, the 5th gear hanging out off the end the way it does, well, it doesn't ever get the fluid changed unless you either alter the transaxle by drilling drain holes back into the main box, or removing the cover when you drain the rest so you can refill it when you fill the main box.

I will leave the preferred fluid arguments to others.

Cheers,

PH

P.S.: When are you going to show the photos of the non-spinning alternator?
 

jokila

Vendor
Joined
Dec 3, 2004
Location
Houston, Texas
TDI
2003 Jetta GLS, Manual
I don't know the procedure to check transmission fluid. I read or was told that it's a sealed transmission with lifetime fluid. The release bearing tube on my car seems to be good with very little wear. I did find a lavender o-ring randomly in the engine bay. It's approximately 3/4 in in diameter and 1/8 in thick round profile. I don't know where it was from or if it's even related to the car. I don't think my order ships until Monday maybe I can get that seal added.

Lavender oRing is from the AC system. Someone lost it doing the work. It happens. If you work on them long enough you also will lose sockets and other things in the engine bay.
 
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