jimbote
Certified Volkswagen Nut
yes, just go into ecu>coding>enter 00001 > do itOkay, I'm interested, but I did some searches and couldn't find anything. Can this be done with VCDS?
yes, just go into ecu>coding>enter 00001 > do itOkay, I'm interested, but I did some searches and couldn't find anything. Can this be done with VCDS?
Sounds easy, I'm guessing I can just put the original value back in to get it back? Will have to sit down with VCDS when I have a few minutes alone and go for a test drive without kids in the car.yes, just go into ecu>coding>enter 00001 > do it
It might, but then I might have to re-do the crank case vent plumbing. This works, especially with all of the EGR and air conditioning stuff out of the way.I have a B4 TDI intake manifold and was thinking of drilling and tapping it for the pressure gauge I'm going to install then swapping it with mine until I realized the inlet points toward the driver's side fender, not the passenger's.
One of those would neaten your intake plumbing up considerably.
Fuel economy numbers are coming... I've done 400 more km this tank already.I wanna see more fuel economy numbers...
Maybe we can take up a collection to buy you a used turbo?
EDIT - did you ever get your timing belt done again?
I tapped my intake for a gauge.I have a B4 TDI intake manifold and was thinking of drilling and tapping it for the pressure gauge I'm going to install then swapping it with mine until I realized the inlet points toward the driver's side fender, not the passenger's.
One of those would neaten your intake plumbing up considerably.
So what happened to your turbo? Didn't you install a new Mahle VNT15 a couple years ago?
Yeah, I did install a Mahle VNT-15 a couple of years ago. I'm not sure why it failed, according to my VDO guage it would rarely spike over 20 psi and would sustain 18 psi up to 5000 rpm before boost was pulled back by the tune. I am burning oil and I may have let it run low. Also I was having an overheating problem, and I don't have an EGT gauage.Yes he did, I am also wondering how and why it blew? It didn't seem that long ago that he installed the Mahle turbo.
Narf, can you shed some light on this?
Hi, sorry I missed your post in the excitement near the start of this thread. Yes it was a new turbo but considering the way I drove the car, the RC3 tune, and the occasional lack of maintenance, I don't think I can blame the manufacturer. At least that is what I keep telling myself.So what happened to your turbo? Didn't you install a new Mahle VNT15 a couple years ago?
This is my mode when driving my 1982 MB 240D; 65 hp and 3600# makes for leisurely acceleration.Just before filling up today I snapped this picture at 775 km with 3/8 indicated remaining on the fuel gauge:
This is the first tank entirely driven without turbo. It inclued 110km of towning the lawn tractor, and other daily driving up and down the Niagara Escarpment with a mix of 60/40 highway/city as usual:
2nd tank, 100% naturally aspirated, some towing: Drove 777 km on 40.65 L achieving 5.22 L/100km or 45.0 mpg!
[recap from previous updates:]
1st tank, mostly no turbo: Drove 715.8 kilometers and used 37.908 liters so this tank calculated: 5.3 L/100km or 44.4 mpg!
Previous tanks with turbo and lead foot: 5.9 L/100km or 40 mpg.
Now that the tank is full and trip counters reset, I'm off to tow the trailer another 110 km today to start the next tank.
Its a fun challenge to drive an under-powered vehicle. It takes the fun of towing to the next level where you have to plan your moves on the road more carefully to avoid annoying other drivers. I really enjoy it!
3600# ??this is my mode when driving my 1982 mb 240d; 65 hp and 3600# makes for leisurely acceleration.
I drive it with my foot to the floor most of the time. I love that car:d
I believe its 3600 pounds. # = pound sign.3600# ??
That is correct.I believe its 3600 pounds. # = pound sign.
I was wondering if it was 3600 ft lbs of torque?I believe its 3600 pounds. # = pound sign.
Exactly, it doesn't hurt fuel economy that is for sure. You definetly need a little extra patience. I may have mentioned before, it does scoot confidently across intersections. In first, second and third gears between 1600 and 2400 rpm just tooling around you might forget that the turbo was missing. I think this is due to the RC3 tune and Sprint520 injectors.so it sounds like if you are patient and learn to use the momentum, you can get stellar MPGs out of this car..
After gutting the exhaust manifold of the VNT mechanism and its two sandwich plates, I am confident that I have more than doubled the flow potential of my current manifold. The exhaust gasses do have to do a back flip then exit out the hole on the left but there is more than twice as much space as before so I can't see a problem here. A picture here would really help I guess, I will try and get one soon. I haven't really checked for leaks, but the exhaust note did sound a bit different the last couple of days.I think you should look for a turboless manifold to put on there to smooth out the exhaust path. of course its working now (are you seeing any signs of leaks?) so why mess with success...
It has one tiny potentiometer screw that you can "turn up" but I don't think it really does anything. I'm not really surprised at the results since I get a slight haze at times without the tuning box, especially at lower rpms and higher throttle inputs.does your powerbox have any adjustments or is it just plug and smoke?
That is the problem, providing actual boost: my understanding is that those fans are only designed to move air, not pressurize it, and that is why they never work. Even if they can boost air pressure in a bench test, as soon as you connect them the an engine they fail to keep up with the volume demand.I bet you could hook up a system that provides needed boost on demand.