NarfBLAST
Top Post Dawg
"Don't worry, this is only temporary...
...unless it works." - Red Green.
I blew my turbo and I decided not to replace it right away. Instead, I wanted to try natural aspiration:
All of the hard work is already done, I have:
- Removed most of the intake pipes, broken turbo pieces, intake manifold and exhaust manifold.
- Removed the oil feed line to turbo and replaced the banjo bolt with a shortened regular M12x1.5 bolt and one copper washer to seal the outlet at the oil cooler:
- Removed the VNT vanes and their backing plate from inside of turbine housing to allow free exhaust flow:
- Remove turbine shaft and replace with a lower control arm bolt, nut and an aluminum crush washer
- Reinstalled the center cartridge into the turbine housing and made a block off plate for the oil return flange on the bottom of the turbo:
- Reinstalled the exhaust manifold with block of plate between it and the oil return line.
- Finally, I reinstalled the intake manifold and connected it directly to MAF housing using a piece of shop vacuum hose:
I'd guess I have about 30 hp available now and the check engine light is on for boost control. I have Bosio Sprint 520 injectors and a RC3 tune. Zero to sixty takes 30 to 40 seconds, but I can putter around town no problem. Also, once up to speed on the highway, it is easy to forget there is a problem. Some torque seems to be available between 1500 and 2000 rpm but above that there is little to no power.
I will have to get some larger intake tubing: right now I am using 1" inside diameter shop vac hose and I just realized that if I upgrade to something closer to the 2" diameter of the race pipe, the cross sectional area would be almost five times larger!
Will post updates.
Update September 2021 still going strong! Adding simplified Vacuum drawing:
...unless it works." - Red Green.
I blew my turbo and I decided not to replace it right away. Instead, I wanted to try natural aspiration:
All of the hard work is already done, I have:
- Removed most of the intake pipes, broken turbo pieces, intake manifold and exhaust manifold.
- Removed the oil feed line to turbo and replaced the banjo bolt with a shortened regular M12x1.5 bolt and one copper washer to seal the outlet at the oil cooler:
- Removed the VNT vanes and their backing plate from inside of turbine housing to allow free exhaust flow:
- Remove turbine shaft and replace with a lower control arm bolt, nut and an aluminum crush washer
- Reinstalled the center cartridge into the turbine housing and made a block off plate for the oil return flange on the bottom of the turbo:
- Reinstalled the exhaust manifold with block of plate between it and the oil return line.
- Finally, I reinstalled the intake manifold and connected it directly to MAF housing using a piece of shop vacuum hose:
I'd guess I have about 30 hp available now and the check engine light is on for boost control. I have Bosio Sprint 520 injectors and a RC3 tune. Zero to sixty takes 30 to 40 seconds, but I can putter around town no problem. Also, once up to speed on the highway, it is easy to forget there is a problem. Some torque seems to be available between 1500 and 2000 rpm but above that there is little to no power.
I will have to get some larger intake tubing: right now I am using 1" inside diameter shop vac hose and I just realized that if I upgrade to something closer to the 2" diameter of the race pipe, the cross sectional area would be almost five times larger!
Will post updates.
Update September 2021 still going strong! Adding simplified Vacuum drawing:
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