ALH pump leaking, fix of replace?

[MATPOC]

Installed turbo last night, started the car and saw this, looks like it only leaks on start up because it was dry before I cranked it over. I was smelling it before but could not see because of the engine cover.

I know there is a reseal kit for those pumps but I'm not sure what it actually seals and how complicated is this process, should I rebuild or replace? (upgrade to 11mm?) I spent years working in the shop and also building bikes and engines, got tools and access to more tool of needed, just don't want to waste time if rebuild is just a bandaid.

 

[Mozambiquer]

I did the top seals on my pump, and it wasn't very difficult. Normally, as i understand, theyoften start leaking there. I'd fix it, but that's my opinion.

 

[MATPOC]

Full seal kit is $20, nobrainer...
I also just noticed a coolant leak, bottom of crank pulley, guessing Water pump (belt and seals) is next?

 

[Lightflyer1]

Water pump would require complete timing belt replacement with a complete kit. Go look at one of our vendors to see what is needed. Need all the proper tools and instructions to do it correct. Plus VCDS. Or find a trusted mechanic near you.

 

[Shenandoah]

If you're going to do the timing belt/water pump, you can always pull the injection pump out at the same time and re-seal it on your workbench. A little easier to work on.

 

[MATPOC]

Water pump would require complete timing belt replacement with a complete kit. Go look at one of our vendors to see what is needed. Need all the proper tools and instructions to do it correct. Plus VCDS. Or find a trusted mechanic near you.

I have VCDS, also pretty handy myself and probably can borrow tools. ID has pretty comprehensive belt kits and I'm just wondering which one I need since their high mileage kit includes things like intake cleaning kit and thermostat which I already replaced.

 

[300D]

The high mileage kit is pretty complete. The intake kit and the thermostat aren’t very expensive, so having them as extra wouldn’t be the deciding factor here. I think it is more about if you want to really go deep and replace everything on that side of the engine. I would if you don’t know the history that well. The front seal can be tricky to come out. IDParts has it setup to add even more with the hydraulic tensioner and such as well. Getting all the tools is pricey too. I rented from a vendor on here and the quality of tools was hit and miss. If I had to do again I would just buy the right ones.

In case you haven’t found it: https://pics.tdiclub.com/pdf/a4timingbelt.pdf

And final bit of advice is to be nitpicky and follow all the steps perfectly. Don’t try any shortcuts. Death of engine can result from shortcuts on the timing job.

good luck.

 

[AndyBees]

Before embarking on such a job (TB replacement and IP re-seal), I'd take my car to the car wash and pressure off the engine. I've pressure washed all of my TDI engine and the same for the MK1 forward diesels. I always cover the Alternator as the brush end contains the voltage regulator which is not sealed for high pressure water! ...................A clean engine is much more enjoyable to work on and lifts spirits too!

In the link below, scroll down to Post #770 and on down to see my first IP re-seal ... lots of pics and narrative! Runobeer has a good video how-to on IP resealing...

ALH TDI engine transplant into '84 Vanagon

Head seal I thought you were gonna have Matt put seals in it at TDI fest. Wish I could do it. Well, the leaks stopped in a day or two after I got the engine running in the garage. I just assumed that it would do better with use.... and, actually, there were times it would start almost...

forums.tdiclub.com

 

[MATPOC]

Before embarking on such a job (TB replacement and IP re-seal), I'd take my car to the car wash and pressure off the engine.

Got pressure washers at work and at home, rinse off my dirt bikes after most rides. Usually very careful, too much pressure will push water in to sealed bearings (belt tensioners, alternator) and it can get ugly.

One of my mentors told me to wear clean clothes when I'm building engines to avoid contamination, I tend to take all advice, can't hurt...

 

[MATPOC]

Also noticed today that pump is pissing at start up from the cover that has injector lines, fuel comes out fast then stop, guessing the seal just gets expanded with pressure

 

[AndyBees]

Also noticed today that pump is pissing at start up from the cover that has injector lines, fuel comes out fast then stop, guessing the seal just gets expanded with pressure

Yeah, likely the big O-ring behind that "nut" in the center of the pump head is leaking...

The socket below is a 15/16" (24mm) 6-point socket. Every other flat face must be ground out to be round to fit the nut. I used a Drimel and about 30 minutes time to re-make the socket.... worked great and the O-ring seal comes with the kit.

 

[MATPOC]

Yeah, likely the big O-ring behind that "nut" in the center of the pump head is leaking...

I could be wrong but seems leak was coming from here, see pic

 

[KLXD]

There are destructions to be found for replacing that seal without disassembly of the pump. I agree with cleaning the engine and removing the pump for changing the big o-ring you suspect. Follow the instructions very carefully.

 

[jmodge]

Clean it off good and locate the leak, common fail point are the rubber seals at this age. If you are doing the belt I would also suggest taking the pump out and changing seals in a vice, makes the head o-ring a lot easier, you need to be clean for that. You can also access the coolant tube o-ring seal much easier with the pump out as well as thermostat.

 

[MATPOC]

Clean it off good and locate the leak, common fail point are the rubber seals at this age. If you are doing the belt I would also suggest taking the pump out and changing seals in a vice, makes the head o-ring a lot easier, you need to be clean for that. You can also access the coolant tube o-ring seal much easier with the pump out as well as thermostat.

which o-ring? I did t-stat a week ago...

 

[jmodge]

There is one where the coolant tube is inserted into the block. Follow the tube that runs parallel to the block that slips in behind the pump above the stat

 

[MATPOC]

There is one where the coolant tube is inserted into the block. Follow the tube that runs parallel to the block that slips in behind the pump above the stat

is that "hard coolant pipe o-ring" add on ?

High Mileage Timing Belt Kit (ALH)

The high mileage timing belt kit includes extra components and hardware that typically are worn or need replacing, but aren't part of the normal timing belt replacement interval. The timing belt ki...

www.idparts.com

 

[jmodge]

Yes, there are two styles, one is like a doubled O-ring. Apparently one style of pipe necessitates the single, but I don’t know which one it is. I upgraded to the double on both my 2000 ALH and Donna’s 2001 ALH

 

[jmodge]

I would think that Peter at IDparts would know the difference

 

[jmodge]

Sometimes the pipe sticks in the block and a pry bar on the back of the head while twisting the pipe pops it out. A round wire brush cleans the hole in the block well

 

[MATPOC]

I would think that Peter at IDparts would know the difference

Yeah, we met, I just don't want to bug the guy with million questions, he has a business to run

 

[BobnOH]

Yeah, we met, I just don't want to bug the guy with million questions, he has a business to run

I doubt he'll mind, being as he's in the parts business.
But this may help-
VW TDI Search Engine