ALH mk1 swap won't start

[ColdRice]

You are absolutely positive both lobes of cyl #1 are pointing up when the cam is locked at TDC? Cam sprocket was loose and able to spin as you tensioned the belt with everything locked at TDC?

Double-checking 'cause those are the two most common oops that keep an engine from starting due to static timing issues.

I'll double check, yes I had the IP and cam pulley loose, I did all the torquing by the book and in the correct order. Can the cam be 180 out and not have valve to piston contact?

I also bought a single mass flywheel setup off IDparts. Is the mark for TDC pretty acurate on those? I'll check that as well.

 

[ColdRice]

Good news! Finally got it running! I put a little electric pump between the tank and filter to push fuel to the IP. I pushed it with the supply line off the IP until it was clear fuel. Then pushed it through the IP with the return banjo loose until I got fuel. Cracked the nuts until I got fuel at the injectors and it fired up and idled! I was afraid to run it to long as none of the cooling is hooked up yet. Unfortunately it didn't start up again after, probably because I didn't let it run very long?

It seems the problem was the IP all along. I'm also questioning if the inline pump having a check valve has anything to do with it as well? Seems unlikely though as these don't have check valves from the factory?

Eirher way it gives me peace of mind that the engine is good so I can finally continue with the build.

Really appreciate everyones input.

 

[Nevada_TDI]

I am glad you got it figured out...I know how demoralizing a no-start condition can be.

 

[dieseldonato]

The factory sending units for the alh has check valves built in it. You will need some sort of check valve to keep fuel from bleeding back.