HoneyBadger
Veteran Member
center console wiring, coolant routing
A heat wave came through so I decided to push off the welding until it cools down again. So I got to make some more progress on the truck.
1. Body mounts and spacers are installed. I did have to play with washers to get my driver door to shut without rubbing, but that's all done! Only took 2 weeks for a 4 hour job. That's never happened before...
2. I put the rats nest in behind my center console. Sorry I mean I wired up my center console switches and started verifying the ones that I could. I haven't fully figured out how I'm going to do the low coolant alarm, so I left that switch alone for now. It's about as pretty as it can get for trying to fit so many wires in such a small space.
The box on top of the fuse panel is a signal converter for the fuel level of the tank I'm adding. i could find a gauge to read the right resistance range, but not a sender. So it's hooked up between the sender and the switch and should work nicely with both gauges.
3. I did some fiddling with the coolant lines going to the heater core. They got real bent up in my adjusting it a little bit this way and a little bit the other way, but they turned out well enough. I'm curious how well they hold up to being cycled with the engine moving since they are pretty soft aluminum. But that's what the low coolant alarm is for right?
This is the best picture I could get to show both lines. You can see the one leads down to the back of the engine. The other goes down below the washer tank and up into the EGR cooler.
For making a bead on the tube so that the hose doesn't slide off. I found a video that showed me how to make them, so if you're interested here's the video and picture of the ones I made. I ground mine down a bit more so that they would fit in the 5/8" tube for the coolant and power steering lines. But they worked well on the intake tubing as well.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JVDUM2ZxoW0&list=LLP6BuVXOabvMN5SBojqTAPQ&index=23&t=0s
A heat wave came through so I decided to push off the welding until it cools down again. So I got to make some more progress on the truck.
1. Body mounts and spacers are installed. I did have to play with washers to get my driver door to shut without rubbing, but that's all done! Only took 2 weeks for a 4 hour job. That's never happened before...
2. I put the rats nest in behind my center console. Sorry I mean I wired up my center console switches and started verifying the ones that I could. I haven't fully figured out how I'm going to do the low coolant alarm, so I left that switch alone for now. It's about as pretty as it can get for trying to fit so many wires in such a small space.
The box on top of the fuse panel is a signal converter for the fuel level of the tank I'm adding. i could find a gauge to read the right resistance range, but not a sender. So it's hooked up between the sender and the switch and should work nicely with both gauges.
3. I did some fiddling with the coolant lines going to the heater core. They got real bent up in my adjusting it a little bit this way and a little bit the other way, but they turned out well enough. I'm curious how well they hold up to being cycled with the engine moving since they are pretty soft aluminum. But that's what the low coolant alarm is for right?
This is the best picture I could get to show both lines. You can see the one leads down to the back of the engine. The other goes down below the washer tank and up into the EGR cooler.
For making a bead on the tube so that the hose doesn't slide off. I found a video that showed me how to make them, so if you're interested here's the video and picture of the ones I made. I ground mine down a bit more so that they would fit in the 5/8" tube for the coolant and power steering lines. But they worked well on the intake tubing as well.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JVDUM2ZxoW0&list=LLP6BuVXOabvMN5SBojqTAPQ&index=23&t=0s