ALH Injector Pump Swap Details from dieselgeek

corrado tdi

TDIClub Enthusiast, Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
Oct 3, 2000
Location
San Antonio, Texas, U.S.A.
TDI
2016 Golf TDI
Hey Y'all:

Recently I’ve been asked about the details required to swap in an ALH injection pump into the older 1Z and AHU engines found in 1996-1997 B4 Passats and 1997-early 1999 Jetta III TDI cars. Dieselgeek.com used to sell a kit to do such a swap but we no longer offer such a kit as all operations can be done locally by a machine shop near you.

The injection pumps in the earlier cars are getting older and are hard to find at salvage yards. The newer ALH engines were sold in all of the 1998-2003 New Beetles and mid-1999 through 2003 Golf and Jetta TDI cars. The ALH engines are much more plentiful and a good used injection pump is easier to find since these engines were produced in much greater numbers than the earlier 1Z/AHU. By using a later pump there is the added benefit of higher injection pressure that accompanies the newer ALH pump in comparison to the older pumps. This may reduce smoke and increase power, especially if you are able to source an 11mm pump from an automatic-equipped ALH engine. Please note that you may reduce your timing belt change interval if you chose to use an 11mm injection pump as it puts more stress on the timing belt. I cannot say what the interval should be in this case.

If you find that your 1Z/AHU injection pump is leaking to the point of losing its prime and failing to start the engine you do not have to replace the pump! Seal kits are available to stop the leaks. But if your pump is knocking or if multiple diagnoses point to a bad pump then you can source a good used ALH pump and with a little extra effort your car can be fixed and modernized at the same time.

Please note that dieselgeek.com no longer sells the kit to install the ALH injection pump into the older engine but I am making public the general details of this swap. Post all relevant questions to this thread. I will not answer PMs in reference to this thread. Also, Id like this thread to be a FAQ on the subject so I will only answer relevant questions and ignore any that are not moving this thread forward. Please refrain from posting anything if it does not act to clarify what I have written.

Unfortunately, I have no pictures.

Here's a simplified rundown:

1. Cut the cast iron 1Z/AHU pump bracket hole to 60mm at a machine shop. Test fit the new pump to the bracket before the bracket leaves the machine shop. You will need to source some longer 8mm bolts to bolt the ALH pump into the newly cut cast iron 1Z/AHU pump bracket. These are available at Home Depot or Lowes, etc. The thread pitch is 1.25. Your machinist should be able to measure the bolt length that is required to secure the pump to the bracket.

2. Cut sheet metal timing belt backing plate pump hole to 2.5” with hole saw. First use a 2" hole saw on a piece of hardwood to cut a 1/4" deep groove ONLY. Then set the sheetmetal ring in this 2" diameter groove in the wood and then use a 2.5" hole saw to cut sheetmetal to 2.5" where the pump protrudes through it. Your machinist may be able to do this job for you on his/her mill.

3. Machine down beveled side of ALH injection pump pulley (PN: 038 130 111A or 111B) to fit under the 1Z or AHU timing cover. Cut down the beveled side to the level of the edge of the timing belt teeth which means that the beveled side should be completely flat after machining. Attach pulley to pump with three pulley adjustment bolts N 903 285 04. The torque specification on these bolts is 18 lb/ft.

4. Swap all 10 of the electrical pins from the two plugs that are currently feeding your injection pump to the single ALH electrical plug (PN: 1J0 973 735) which is available at your dealer for around $9.00. The female receptacles can be removed from terminal housings with a medium sized safety pin but be careful not to bend barbs before they are fully depressed to release receptacles from plastic housing. There are special terminal tools to do this job but they are expensive and hard to find. Be sure to remove violet retainer on 1J0 plug before trying to insert pins. Replace it after pins are installed completely. You may want to practice on a junk yard plug before you attempt pin extraction on your wiring harness! You will be a more patient person after you practice;)

The equivalent terminal/pin numbers are as follows:

Terminal Position/Wire color-ALH/ Wire color/Terminal position1Z & AHU

T10/1 Lilac/black Lilac/black T8/1 (Ex: remove #1 wire on your 8-pin plug and insert into the #1 position on 10-pin 1J0 plug)
T10/2 Grey/green Grey/green T8/2
T10/3 White/green White/green T8/3
T10/4 Brown/blue Brown/blue T8/4
T10/5 Red/Lilac Black/Yellow T8/5
T10/6 Brown/red Brown/yellow T8/6
T10/7 Yellow/red Yellow/black T8/7
T10/8 Black/white White/black T3/1
T10/9 Brown/black Brown/black T3/2
T10/10 Yellow/black Black/yellow T3/3

You may use any ALH pump, 10 or 11mm. You will need to buy a pump pin for setting the pump to TDC from a fine vendor such as www.metalnerd.com (Tool PN: MN3359). Check start of injection after starting car for the first time. If necessary, adjust timing with three pulley adjustment bolts N 903 285 04 just like you would with any ALH engine.
 
Last edited:

tomo366

TDI Lifer, Member #131
Joined
Jun 30, 1997
Location
Kensington, Maryland USA
TDI
2015 Jetta SEL TDI
The incidence of leaking pumps on 1Z's are growing daily.......
My is leaking now you might want to consider markerting these again!
 

corrado tdi

TDIClub Enthusiast, Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
Oct 3, 2000
Location
San Antonio, Texas, U.S.A.
TDI
2016 Golf TDI
I want to reiterate to everyone that leaky pumps can be fixed. The only time anyone should be looking for a new pump is when there is an internal problem that cannot be remedied by a bolt-on fix such as a fuel temp sender, seals, cold start solenoid, etc. (Tomo: I know that you know this I just wanna be sure everyone else does...)

The critical details of the pump swap are in the first post. When I sold the kits (5 total) I charged about $150 in parts and labor for the kit. I think that most people might be able to save some money and time by doing these few things locally at a machine shop. The part numbers for the connectors, bolts and tool are above. The only really tricky part is the actual removal of the electrical pins. Practicing on a plug obtained at a salvage yard is highly recommended to move up that learning curve. My kit had no special tool included for this task so the relevant details are now public.
 

Warthog

Veteran Member
Joined
May 16, 2004
Location
Clemson, SC
TDI
see Bio
Help from D-geek, pls.

Seal kits from Dieselgeek are easy to use if you have tools for working on metric things.
I successfully replaced the top and middle seals and only needed to buy the 3-sided socket...
Now I have replaced the pump head seal. Everything went fine until I got the head about 3mm from seating during installation. It wouldn't go any further. I finally took the top (and middle) sections off the pump to SEE what was going on in the insides.
It seems that the shaft in the pump (the shaft that the collar-with-the-pin-socket)doesn't want to go into the boss that is part of the 'head'. I'd like to know what the end of the shaft looks like. If anyone has a photo or a good drawing (from a parts manual) they can post it would be very nice. I thought I'd seen one on the forum before, but now I cannot find it. This is a 1Z engine with a O (or zero?)-460-404-990 pump. The end of the shaft seems to have a small chamfer on it, so I think it ought to find it's way back into the boss center hole OK, but it doesn't want to. I took-up the screws very slowly and evenly when re-installing the head and it went pretty smoothly until the last little bit. Then I loosened them and retightened them over and over but never could get that last small gap to close.
Then I took the top parts off. Nothing is out of place that I can see, only the apparent misalignment at the junction where the shaft and the boss 'meet'.
Any ideas or suggestions? Pictures of internal parts?
edit later: Whoops. I apologize for posting this HERE. I failed to notice the admonition about additional posts to THIS thread.
 
Last edited:

tdibeliever

Veteran Member
Joined
May 2, 2003
Location
Urbana, IL
TDI
None currently- just pieces
The hole needed in the bracket actually needs to be 68mm to fit the injection pump. I had my machinist add another .03mm to the dimension to ensure a clean slip fit. Spot on!
 

tdibeliever

Veteran Member
Joined
May 2, 2003
Location
Urbana, IL
TDI
None currently- just pieces
I just mounted my pump yesterday and found I needed to shim the pump back towards the transmission approx. 2mm. The belt was running off the inside edge of the pulley by about 1mm. I used 3 hardened washers. between the bracket and the pump. Now I have about 1mm of exposed pulley behind the belt. I also noticed that after having removed the clipped nut at the 2 o'clock position from the rear timing cover (to make way for the bolt that now holds the pump) the rear timing cover flaps loose. To solve that I trimmed the ring from the nut clip so the nut fell off and reattached the remaining clip to the cover.
 

sdturbo

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 12, 2006
Location
san diego
TDI
none
Just did this aswell. I ended up putting a washer/spacer in aswell. All and all it went pretty smooth. Thanks for the writeup!
 

G60ING

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 5, 2001
Location
Alexandria, VA
TDI
No TDIs Currently, I have an R36 Corrado. I've had an ALH Corrado swap, AHU Corrado swap and 2003 TDI Jetta
I have done this upgrade on a friends car. I chose to keep the wiring stock and converted the IP's Mk4 plug to the Mk3 style plugs.
 
Last edited:

VW97JettaTDI

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 10, 2008
Location
Wisconsin
TDI
VW97JettaTDI
chittychittybangbang said:
I did this as well, pics and my notes here: http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q_how_to/a3b4/injpumpswap.htm

I found that a little shim would have helped but after starting the engine and occasional checks afterwards, it's right on the edge and not over. No unusual wear on the edge of the belt. I also used some washers to clamp down the TB cover.
I like it! In the process of looking for pump and sprocket. Is there any foreseeable problems that can occur from a novice installing a pump by there self? ex: can a screw up horribly and like grenade the engine :eek:

here is just the rotor... wonder if you can just install this on a AHU 10mm pump? http://www.dieselvw.com/11mmRotor.htm
here would be a ALH pump http://www.dieselvw.com/ALHTDIInjectorPump.htm
Oh and here a AHU 12mm pump http://www.dieselvw.com/1ZAHUTDIInjector12mmPump.htm :D
You know i kinda feel that someone should of posted this stuff already, i hate spending hours researching for this stuff, i wish more people would do like this thread does and just lay out the process and facts instead of just saying "o hits easy".. :)
 
Last edited:

VW97JettaTDI

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 10, 2008
Location
Wisconsin
TDI
VW97JettaTDI
oh, and i have a stupid question, why couldn't some one just cut the wires to the plug, strip then and then solder them back so they don't have to deal with the pins? is this possible.
 

G60ING

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 5, 2001
Location
Alexandria, VA
TDI
No TDIs Currently, I have an R36 Corrado. I've had an ALH Corrado swap, AHU Corrado swap and 2003 TDI Jetta
five of the wires are all black and uncut wires is way better the solder. removing pins from plugs is easy once you know how to do it.
 

G60ING

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 5, 2001
Location
Alexandria, VA
TDI
No TDIs Currently, I have an R36 Corrado. I've had an ALH Corrado swap, AHU Corrado swap and 2003 TDI Jetta
Find me an OEM VW 12mm pump and then I'd consider using it. That guy sells crap.

Personally I'd recomend you send your 10mm pump to Giles and let him work his magic. Thats what I intend to do someday.
 

VW97JettaTDI

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 10, 2008
Location
Wisconsin
TDI
VW97JettaTDI
yeah, i just talked to charlie at kerma, he was telling me about all the cheap Chinese parts out there :( I was all excited. ho do i get a hold of giles?

Hey i did a while back order some 520 injectors a couple years ago that i think could be knock offs. would there be any harm in installing them and pulling them out once i get the rest of my setup and some real bisio injectors and have my injectors cleaned?
I figure no ones gunna want to buy knock off so i might as well use them right?? what could go wrong.. seriously i want to know!
 
Last edited:

tdibeliever

Veteran Member
Joined
May 2, 2003
Location
Urbana, IL
TDI
None currently- just pieces
An update:
With an 11mm pump, a larger K03/K04 turbo boosting to around 20lbs, stock intercooler, PP520 injectors, TT downpipe and exhaust, and a factory JB ECU with the IQ set to about 5.4 the car runs quite well. I have yet to see any smoke from the tail during the day. When I leave work there's never anyone behind me to see what's there. I'm going to advance the timing a bit more and raise the IQ a bit and see what happens.
 

honda_vtec2

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 16, 2008
Location
Toronto
TDI
2000 Golf ALH tdi, 1997 Jetta 1z tdi
tdibeliever said:
An update:
With an 11mm pump, a larger K03/K04 turbo boosting to around 20lbs, stock intercooler, PP520 injectors, TT downpipe and exhaust, and a factory JB ECU with the IQ set to about 5.4 the car runs quite well. I have yet to see any smoke from the tail during the day. When I leave work there's never anyone behind me to see what's there. I'm going to advance the timing a bit more and raise the IQ a bit and see what happens.
Hey sounds like you got a nice setup. Would it be possible for you to send me a log of your car with VCDS, groups 15, 11, 4 and 3. I'm doing some logging/tweak tests and would be nice to use your setup as a comparison. When you are WOT, do you have puffs of black smoke?.
 

tdibeliever

Veteran Member
Joined
May 2, 2003
Location
Urbana, IL
TDI
None currently- just pieces
No puffs at all. I can get some data for you in the next day or two. I have to swap to the tuned ECU and get logs for Kerma as well. I guess I can do it all in the same morning. PM me your Email and I'll send 'em to you directly once I make them.
 

honda_vtec2

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 16, 2008
Location
Toronto
TDI
2000 Golf ALH tdi, 1997 Jetta 1z tdi
tdibeliever said:
No puffs at all. I can get some data for you in the next day or two. I have to swap to the tuned ECU and get logs for Kerma as well. I guess I can do it all in the same morning. PM me your Email and I'll send 'em to you directly once I make them.
pm sent, thanks
 

kooyajerms

grocery getter
Joined
May 5, 2004
Location
Pomona, Southern California
TDI
97 B4V (mine), 11 x5 35d (hers) 04 V10 (that one you want), 2014 Q7 (mom's) 74 Shasta 1400
pump installed. Wasn't very fun going to the bolt shop twice. Guessing the lengths and all that. Timing the sprocket is SUPER sensitive. A bit of a frustration TB job, but it's fine.

-I blistered my fingers getting the electrical pins out, had a pin tool even, still not fun.
-The way the stock bolts go into the pump and through the brackets are opposite to the way I did it. I found my long bolts could not thread through the pump starting from driverside. (1z/ahu pumps are not threaded, alh is)

-I used a 1.5mm hardened washer for the shim. Bolt shop didn't have a 2mm. I tried 3mm but the shimming brought the sprocket WAY too close to the rear timing belt cover. Especially because the cover needed the washer and the clamp (top front which I removed the nut and put the bolt in) to be attached. If I didn't have to clamp down the rear cover, I would have been happy, but it stuck out too much.

-belt is tracking with maybe less than 1mm on the edge of the sprocket. Not my favorite place to be, but if I spaced it the 2mm, I would have been rubbing against the rear (sheetmetal) timing belt cover. Wierd.


These are the pieces I had to get other than the machined parts and the alh plug.

2 8x1.25 35mm hardened bolts (top front with a flanged nut and the bottom without a flanged nut (no way to get that on)
1 8x1.25 40mm hardened bolt (top rear with a flanged nut) longer because of the fender washer.
3 1.5mm hardened shims (the picture shows 3mm which I changed out)


1 fender washer with 3mm washer under it)to keep the rear timing belt cover (the sheet metal) from rattling. Tried two but the bottom one was rubbing against the sprocket.




 

jjordan11

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 5, 2008
Location
Lehi, UT
TDI
1988 Audi 80 quattro PD130, 1982 Westfalia TDI
We did this for our Westfalia project, I'm running into a problem though. I have injector lines for the ALH and they don't seem to fit. Has anybody done this with ALH lines, if not does anybody have a set of AHU/1Z injector lines for sale :)?

Jon
 

G60ING

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 5, 2001
Location
Alexandria, VA
TDI
No TDIs Currently, I have an R36 Corrado. I've had an ALH Corrado swap, AHU Corrado swap and 2003 TDI Jetta
You need AHU/1Z lines. Get them used because new they are $70-$100 each
 

G60ING

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 5, 2001
Location
Alexandria, VA
TDI
No TDIs Currently, I have an R36 Corrado. I've had an ALH Corrado swap, AHU Corrado swap and 2003 TDI Jetta
After learning about the AHH's injector pump being 11mm and the block being the same type of external waterpump block as the AHU I began poking around www.vagcat.com 's parts catalog. The injector pump's part number started with 038 just like a mk4 11m pump. This lead me to start looking at the cog gear, bracket and backing plate and these are all different part numbers.

The bracket: 028130147M
The gear: 028130111H 22 Euro
The Injector pump: 038130107J 2300 euro or 038130107JX 1105 euro most likely with a core charge

The site lists a different upper and lower timing belt cover but uses the same backing plate which has me a little puzzled. No matter as the backing plate and bracket are easy enough to have enlarged by a machinest.

The site also lists a different timing belt
 

G60ING

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 5, 2001
Location
Alexandria, VA
TDI
No TDIs Currently, I have an R36 Corrado. I've had an ALH Corrado swap, AHU Corrado swap and 2003 TDI Jetta
Fortunatly we have an AHH Passat in the USA with an enthusiast for an owner:
JFettig's Passat & pictures:







I'm betting that they used a wider belt to get a long enough belt life and all the cogs and associated parts are wider too.
 

kooyajerms

grocery getter
Joined
May 5, 2004
Location
Pomona, Southern California
TDI
97 B4V (mine), 11 x5 35d (hers) 04 V10 (that one you want), 2014 Q7 (mom's) 74 Shasta 1400
Looks tasty, thicker everything! What do you think Frank, 11mm pump on a 1Z, stick with the 60K TB changes?
 

G60ING

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 5, 2001
Location
Alexandria, VA
TDI
No TDIs Currently, I have an R36 Corrado. I've had an ALH Corrado swap, AHU Corrado swap and 2003 TDI Jetta
If I had an 11mm pump on a 1z/AHU I would drop down to 50k belt changes or switch to the wider belt setup.
 

kooyajerms

grocery getter
Joined
May 5, 2004
Location
Pomona, Southern California
TDI
97 B4V (mine), 11 x5 35d (hers) 04 V10 (that one you want), 2014 Q7 (mom's) 74 Shasta 1400
If I had only known about that AHH setup... Just wonder what the cost of the parts are. Hopefully it's not too bad being such a rare setup.
 

G60ING

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 5, 2001
Location
Alexandria, VA
TDI
No TDIs Currently, I have an R36 Corrado. I've had an ALH Corrado swap, AHU Corrado swap and 2003 TDI Jetta
Use www.7zap.com and look up the parts on the 1998 Passat. I used the site to look up parts for my turbo upgrade.
 
Top