ALH engine without injection pump, timing belt or flywheel- how to time while adding an 02M transmission, etc?

TDI Jim

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1996 Passat, 1996 Passat Variant (RIP), 2002 Jetta Wagon, 1995 Passat Variant TDI conversion brought back from the dead, 1997 Passat Variant project, and returned 2014 Passat
I purchased a used ALH longblock engine and it does not have a timing belt due to no injection pump on the engine, which is not at TDC based on the #1 cam lobes pointing down, and also there is no flywheel or transmission (I am upgrading to an 02M transmission with a Sachs PD dual mass flywheel/clutch assembly from Dutch Auto Parts, and have it on an engine stand derusting, painting, and replacing the hard coolant line seal, etc.

This is a new experience for me (though done a number of timing belts and have all the tools). Do I transfer my 11mm Injection pump along with the accessory bracket from my old ALH engine to the new to me engine, add a Timing Belt and turn it to TDC once I attach the flywheel, clutch and 02M transmission? I have only had single mass flywheels in the past, so also need to be sure I am following the correct procedure for that installation as well, such as in my Mk4 Bentley Manual, assuming all the details are in there? Also, should I replace the input and output shaft seals on the 02M as well and anything else to do before installing the 02M tranny? Thanks for your help, just don't want to screw anything up as it has been a 3 year journey to start this project.
 

KLXD

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I'm sure others who know what they're talking about will answer but I've seen lotsa threads about aftermarket flywheels not having timing marks.

I'd remove the #1 glow plug and use some sort of indicator, a real indicator if you have one, or maybe a clean dowel or wire to find TDC. Approach TDC in both the CW and CCW directions marking the flywheel at the point the indicator stops moving up. Do it several times for accuracy. TDC will be centered between the two marks. You don't have to go far to either side, 15 degrees is plenty.

Obviously you have to wait until you have the flywheel in place. I'd do it even if the flywheel has a mark to verify it's correct. I've read there are marks on the front of the engine but doing this will be more accurate due to the bigger diameter of the flywheel and the belt system isn't installed yet anyway.

Be careful maneuvering the crank to get it to #1 TDC since the cam won't be turning and you don't want hard contact with valves. Might have to maneuver the cam too if the motor wasn't at TDC on #1 when the pump and belt were removed. You could remove the cam to make things easy.
 

Nuje

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Why not just remove the camshaft until you have the IP and transmission installed? That'd probably be what I'd do - totally removes the "valves getting in the way of the pistons" problem from the equation while you things apart.
 

Zak99b5

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2003 Jetta TDI
I'd find TDC as above with a dowel in cyl #1, rotate the crank 1/4 turn ccw, and install the cam. Turn the cam to TDC, then turn the crank back to TDC (cw this time). Then you can continue with the IP and belt.
 

TDI Jim

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Thanks guys, will start on it tomorrow after another full day's work on this project. IP and accessory bracket are finally off on old engine and cleaning them up tomorrow before installing on the new to me engine. Email sent to Frans as well to see if he can add anything. Your advice of loosening the camshaft makes sense since that would pull all the valves up out of harms way.

For a plan B I see the dimple on the front crankshaft sprocket, just not sure what to line it up with as it is currently at about 3:30 while both cam lobes for the number 1 piston are both down.
 

ghohouston

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Just unbolt the cam. Set #1 to tdc, there is a mark on the flywheel, harmonic balancer, and the little tin metal cover just above the balancer. Mark from the balancer lines up with the tin cover at #1 tdc. Re install cam with the lobes in the correct rabbit ear position.
 

noob_tl

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Central Indiana
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2003 NB
If you don't need to remove the cam for another reason, I would put the #1 piston in the middle of travel using a wire or dowel in the GP hole as an indicator, then rotate the cam to the proper position and install the timing tool. Then you can bring #1 piston to TDC safely.
 

TDI Jim

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1996 Passat, 1996 Passat Variant (RIP), 2002 Jetta Wagon, 1995 Passat Variant TDI conversion brought back from the dead, 1997 Passat Variant project, and returned 2014 Passat
I finally got the engine timing belt on and a valve was up against its piston, so am going to do what ghohouston suggested and remove the cam, set #1 piston to TDC with the mark on the harmonic balancer and on the lower timing belt cover. Metalman (Dennis) sent me a picture of both as I did not know what the marks looked like, which is a great help, so not only a great Vendor I have used for years, but a great help after the sale! I will report back on how it goes. I have been rebuilding/replacing/improving everything to get another 300,000 miles out of her so that is why it is taking me time to get to the business end.
 

KLXD

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'98, '2 Jettas
One wonders about the provenance of an engine obtained without a timing belt.

Pump removed because needed or engine trashed so pump was salvaged?

If you're removing the cam examine the followers closely for cracking. Maybe replace them and cam while you're at it since they aren't too spensive. Not because you find damage but because they have 300k on them.
 

TDI Jim

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1996 Passat, 1996 Passat Variant (RIP), 2002 Jetta Wagon, 1995 Passat Variant TDI conversion brought back from the dead, 1997 Passat Variant project, and returned 2014 Passat
The new to me low mileage engine is from Dutch Auto Parts, a respected vendor here, same for the 02M tranny and VNT 17 turbo, and Bosio PP 764 nozzles on flow tested rebuilt injectors. This project has been waiting for me crated and boxed up in the garage while I rebuilt my ill brother's home the last couple years, to help him out, so finally getting to do something for me, so really appreciate you guys helping me out!

I went over the camshaft/lifters carefully yesterday and they look to have very low mileage, with no evidence of damage or hits anywhere and the steel looks to be in excellent shape as you would expect from original VW parts, which I confirmed.

I lined up the crankshaft with the marks on the harmonic balancer and lower timing belt cover, locked the cam in place for cylinder #1 (lobes up), and locked the IP and did 20 full revolutions to stretch/break the belt in a bit with no issues, then reset everything at TDC. What a relief to get everything timed and the belt on!

Thanks so much for your help everyone, you guys are the best!
 
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