Alh compression questions

[TOPH R]

Ladies and gents I need some help.
I have an 03 tdi with 280000kms on it...bought used...bit of a turd lol.

In the cold she always started and blew a bit of smoke...and ran rough for a few seconds till she cleaned up.

Now that its warmer...does the same thing...so I thought...let's see what's up.

Buy a POS amazon compression tester...
290 300 310 310
Tried a few times...
But she still starts and once going...drives fine and still gets over 1000km per tank. And has good pickup.

I thought...I wonder the gauge is wrong...because that's pretty even.

Test my buddies 04...(I know...pd but similar)
320 340 340 320

I cant help but think my gauge is a piece of ****...and both engines are likely higher.

Wondering if my injector nozzles have eaten it...have a set of .205s on my desk...but I didnt wanna throw them in if my engine was pooched.

Thoughts?

 

[thompsoncustom]

My thoughts are your gauge is junk

 

[Nero Morg]

I think your gauge is junk. Usually running rough at cold start is either a nozzle bleeding down, or air in fuel at cold start (return line letting air bleed in) my car does it too. With a good gauge my car reads 440 across all four. If suggest getting your fuel return lines replaced, then perhaps injector rebuild.

 

[burn_your_money]

Does the compression tester have a schrader valve installed? Those are about the types of numbers I got when I didn't have one installed in mine.

 

[befarrer]

I bought one of those Amazon tester, said my ALH had 125psi in all 4 cylinders, but it ran fine. I ended up returning it. Didn't bother getting a different one.

 

[jettawreck]

With a cheap gauge the numbers aren't to be taken too seriously but mostly look at consistency. Numbers are showing low (of course) but rather consistent on both engines. Lower on yours...especially #1,2.
Miles/km are too low for real internal normal wear issues.
Methods of testing compression make a lot of difference. Cranking speed matters-a lot. Tired/worn starter will result in poor/slow starts and low numbers. Battery should be fully charged prior to each test. All GPS removed.
I would remove the valve cover and look for lifter damage (exhaust valves) as a clue to a prior timing belt "event". It's relatively common for some folks after a non-fatal occurance to replace the belt and sell the vehicle before really bad things happen (valve breaks off and destroys engine). Vehicle/maintainence history, if truthfully known, is a big help always.