How will they perform with out head work. Ive got a stage 3 colt cam on order for my alh with no porting or polishing done yetHECK YEA, it will easily drop the temp 100F across the entire rpm range, provided you have head work already done (port polish etc).
highly suggest a DIY water injection. If your interested i can PM you a parts list and a few links to help with doing a water injection for under $200.
ThisAnything that opens the exhaust valve earlier up the expansion stroke will not reduce EGT but rather raise it. If there is a real reduction, it's due to some other factor(s), most likely the higher volumetric efficiency from the combination of cam and head porting that means effectively operating at a leaner lambda for a given amount of fuelling. Now that will materially reduce EGT.
What orifice did you run and what set up was it, i run a preturbo and post turbo 0.02" orifice off my auber gauges of distilled water and i can drive 60 miles each way to an autocross event, compete and get home on about .5 gallons of water. I hammer on it hard too driving home.Yea Im not doing water injection. Thats more for a short burst WOT track day car. I had a setup on a DSM back in the day before big cheap intercoolers. It did a keep the intake nice and clean though.
I want to keep my low torque down low for sure. The R520s are fine with the 11mm pump and a dodge 12 valve intank pump and no more than 26psi out of the BV43a at WOT.
Thanks for the input guys I will continue with a larger cooler install and go from there. It may be all im looking for.
It was a shurflow garden pump at 100psi. Caint remember anything else but Im sure its on dsmtuners somewhere.What orifice did you run and what set up was it, i run a preturbo and post turbo 0.02" orifice off my auber gauges of distilled water and i can drive 60 miles each way to an autocross event, compete and get home on about .5 gallons of water. I hammer on it hard too driving home.
So flat ground little to no load I measure 25 to 30 F IAT above ambient. no MAF and MAP sensor is mounted on the PD150 intake. I think if I can get 10 to 15 F above ambient it should make a noticeable difference especially in summer. my injection timing is just a hair above the middle line in VCDS. I havent played with moving it around yet.Larger IC will do squat for you as your high EGT is at part load where there should not be appreciable boost. Just ask for an ECU file that requests 10% higher MAP at part load.
Make sure also that the injection timing is not retarded.
Good info thats the real world comparison I was looking for. My main concern is also for the other components and longevity. The turbo is fine.Timely question, I wondered about this too with my swap. My truck is similar @ 4100lbs last time it was weighed, and I am running PP764s nozzles on an 11mm pump.
Since I already had a Franko6 stage 2 cam in my Golf, I decided to swap the cam and lifters between the truck and the Golf a few weeks ago when I had the truck motor out for my engine mount re-do.
I can't argue with TDIMeister's explanation - but the cam did result in slightly lower EGTs across the board, with the biggest decrease coming in the higher revs ~3000-3500 rpm. Steady state on flat highway we're only talking 25F lower, but up steep grades I noticed 50-75 degrees cooler EGTs that I was used to.
It's not earth shattering, and if I had spent $300 on a cam and $80 for lifters to replace a perfectly good stock cam I would be disappointed. However, since I had it already it made sense to put in in the engine with the bigger turbo, PD150 intake manifold, and the ported head (exhaust only) vs. the stock breathing in my Golf.
I also don't feel like my low end power has suffered appreciably in the truck, nor improved in the Golf now that it's sporting a stock cam.
I do wish there was better consensus on what is a safe sustained EGT for the motor, not just the turbo. I start to wonder when the head and pistons are going to change shape and cause bad things. Maybe they are not of concern since they're cooled with oil/coolant and the turbo will be the first thing to go?
Yea I am running the stock NV3500 with 32 inch tires with 4.56 gears. drives great and no lugging at all now. It was not that great when it had the stock 3.55 gears. 5th gear was unusable.I found that moving the torque up worked better for a heavier vehicle. Mine was in a loaded wrangler (bumpers, winch, full size spare, etc) If your Dakota has a NV3550 in it you have a close ratio first gear anyway. The key is to make sure its geared properly.
If your going to rely on the torque down low to move the heavier vehicles I strongly suggest you ad rod bearings to your maintenance schedule. If you think I am kidding and you have 10k on your fresh new bearings...pull one and you will see... or should I say you might not like what you see..
The low rpm torque is fun, it makes for giggles, smiles, you know... that giddy feeling... But in reality there is not enough bearing surface area to be lugging it around. Rpm adds the oil volume and pressure that is needed to keep those bearings alive when you consider the higher torque output weighed against the higher loads hanging on the back side of the crank. The tdi is more than capable of surpassing the shear limits of your oil at low engine speeds.