ALH #1 cam bearing wear, need advice

99.5blkjetta

Member
Joined
Jul 9, 2021
Location
East Tennessee
TDI
1999.5 Jetta Sedan, 2002 Jetta Wagon


Hello all. I have a 99.5 Jetta ALH with 301K miles. Just did the timing belt a few hundred miles ago, did it 20K early due to seeing a leaking cam seal. Went to replace it during the timing belt replacement and found what you see in the pictures. Its been this way since at least 220K untouched, which is when the last belt was done. I bought the car with 238K. Looks like the #1 bearing cap area starved for oil at some point before I owned the car. It's never run low on oil during my ownership, I've meticulously kept up with it, adding a few ounces every 1000 miles. So I assume the wear you see happened before I owned the car and has been that way all these miles. I used the PTFE cam seal (it had a spring seal), and it was working very well, no leaks. A short time after I replaced the belt I replaced the turbo oil feed line with a braided one (the hard line was starting to rust and swell due to a coolant leak at the flange area). Right after I replaced the line and primed the turbo and oil filter housing by cranking it over with the IP disconnected for a couple cranks, I started it up, and it had a lifter let go and start ticking pretty bad. Pulled the valve cover and don't see any valve stems poked through, but the lifters are kinda dished, so I am hoping I can just replace the cam and lifters and fix the problem. BUT, I'm concerned about reports of camshafts snapping due to wear at the #1 camshaft bearing area, so my question is how to fix this reliably. I'm aware that there's unfortunately no replaceable cam bearings for an ALH unlike a BEW engine. As you see in the photos, it appears the camshaft has some scratching but not near as severe as the bearing cap itself, which is really scored up. Don't know the condition of the head underneath since I didn't remove the cam when I did the belt. So my question is, would I be at risk to put a new cam and lifters in without replacing or rebuilding the head? Or could I get a #1 bearing cap that's in good condition and put it on with a new camshaft and be okay? Thanks in advance.
 

Nickmix

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 23, 2011
Location
Virginia
TDI
2003 Jetta GL TDI
I would talk with a local machine shop and see what they say. They may be able to machine some off of the bottom of the bearing cap and then align bore to the correct size. Of course you would have to remove the head and bring it to them. If you get another bearing cap I think you would still have to get it align bored to your head. With that many miles the cylinder head may be due for a rebuild anyways...valve guides, seals and valve job. I am no expert though. Hopefully someone else will offer advice.
 
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99.5blkjetta

Member
Joined
Jul 9, 2021
Location
East Tennessee
TDI
1999.5 Jetta Sedan, 2002 Jetta Wagon
I would talk with a local machine shop and see what they say. They may be able to machine some off of the bottom of the bearing cap and then aling bore to the correct size. Of course you would have to remove the head and bring it to them. If you get another bearing cap I think you would still have to get it align bored to your head. With that many miles the cylinder head may be due for a rebuild anyways...valve guides, seals and valve job. I am no expert though. Hopefully someone else will offer advice.
Thanks for the reply. After I posted I saw some threads talking about these heads and caps being line bored, so it definitely doesn't sound like a good idea to get a bearing cap from a different head. Keep the replies coming! Franko6, would love your opinion.
 

csstevej

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Aug 12, 2004
Location
north nj
TDI
2001 golf tdi 4 door auto now a manual, mine, 2000 golf 2 door M/T son's,daughters 98 NB non-TDI 2.0, 2003 TDI NB for next daughter, head repaired and on road,gluten for punishment got another tdi 2001NB,another yellow tdi NB
Yeah , I was gonna suggest getting ahold of Franko6. He would be the best place for advice.
But in all honesty you’re head probably could use a refresh at that milage. Again I would call Frank and see what he has available for a head swap …that would be the quickest and least down time…just my .02.
 

Abacus

That helpful B4 guy
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Nov 10, 2007
Location
Relocated from Maine to Dewey, AZ
TDI
Only the B4V left
Agreed. Definitely contact Frank, we've discussed stuff like this and he can line bore the heads, but it may be easier to just swap another one on and have that one refurbished. Frank is a good guy and works with people on stuff like this.
 

Nevada_TDI

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 17, 2008
Location
Reno, sort of...
TDI
2001 Jetta TDI
I too recommend Franko6, he is honest and forthright.
If your vehicle needs a part, he will tell you how to install it, even if you did not buy it from his.
If you get him on the phone, be prepared to talk for 30 minutes or more.
The majority of TDI stuff I know from Frank. Frank, once again thank you.
 

oilhammer

Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
Joined
Dec 11, 2001
Location
outside St Louis, MO
TDI
There are just too many to list....
That head needs to be rebuilt or replaced.

You can machine the ALH head for cam bearings (and lifter bore sleeves) if need be. But it would probably be less expensive to just find a different head and use that.
 

Mozambiquer

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
Mar 21, 2015
Location
Versailles Missouri
TDI
2004 VW Touareg V10 TDI, 2012 Audi Q7 V6 TDI, 1998 VW Jetta TDI. 1982 VW Rabbit pickup, 2001 VW Jetta TDI, 2005 VW Passat wagon TDI X3, 2001 VW golf TDI, 1980 VW rabbit pickup,
Summoning @Franko6
He's the expert on this. 😃
 

Prairieview

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Jul 9, 2017
Location
Too close to Sturgis 'ithole
TDI
Two 2000 Beetles, 2002 Jetta, 2002 gas avh Jetta, fleet of older 1.6 turbo and non's
"I'm concerned about reports of camshafts snapping due to wear at the #1 camshaft bearing area."

This is a problem with alh engines.......? I've not heard of such.
On the older 1.6 diesels, a too-tight cam belt would produce increased/unusual wear on the #1. But, an alh?
And, over-tightening the cam bolt can cause an eventual snap of cam on the older cars....but here?

Did the previous "mechanic" replace the front cam seal and use judicious amounts of spray carb cleaner to attempt to clean the hole for the new seal?
You know.....some people do drown in bathtubs.
 

Franko6

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Joined
May 7, 2005
Location
Sw Missouri
TDI
Jetta, 99, Silver`
Hey, there are several of my long-time allies pitching for me. Thank you... I am noted for taking the time to explain myself clearly if not excessively.

I'd pull the rest of the cam caps and take the cam shaft out to see what other damage there might be. The #1 saddle usually takes the worse hit. I would guess that at that age, the cylinder head would need some attention, but the bigger issue is trying to recover from that kind of damage usually means welding up the bottom journal and replacing the cam cap, then align boring the journals.

However, welding on a cylinder head that is over 250,000 old is a problem all by itself. The amount of oil that is absorbed into the molecules of the head make it very difficult to weld. Volcanoes of black come boiling out of the head, destroying the weld. Sometimes it works, but mostly, I spend 1 stick of filler rod before I give up. With the extra miles and years, I wouldn't think welding is a good option.

There are sets of journal bearings that can be installed into an ALH or AHU. The problem is, they never seem to work. Since it takes quite a big cutter to make the journal bearings fit and I've thrown away several heads using that technique that failed, I'm not spending the money on a journal bearing cutter the proper size to experiment with oil hammer is right. The cost to repair will probably outweigh the cost of replacement.

The greater force on the #1 journal is downward, from the pull of the belt on the cam sprocket. If you really think it's been running like this for 100k, who am I to argue? Maybe it will work. But I'm not a fan of the idea. Add to that, how the oil flows in this engine, that not only the #1 cam cap takes a hit when there is a loss of oil, but also the #1 rod bearing and the #1 main bearing usually are damaged.

I think I'd check the oil pressure at idle and at 2000 rpm to see exactly what you are running. I'm going to guess it's below 15lbs at idle and if it's not hitting 30psi at 2000rpm, you have more on your plate than you expected. I'd be pulling the oil pan to inspect the #1 rod and main journals.

Story: A customer went skiing in Breckenridge, Colorado and lost his keys somewhere on the slope.. Had to spend big $$$ to get his car towed to Denver VW dealership. The tow truck knocked a hole in his oil pan (Go figger...) The VW tech spent more of my customer's money for the replacement key started the car and let it run to warm it up, not knowing all the oil was gone. The car stopped all by itself...

This is like a Keystone cops segue.

The dealer told my customer they would replace the oil pan and it would be fine! :/

My customer called me... I got to talk to the tech and told him to pull the #1 cam cap and show that to our customer. It looked JUST LIKE YOURS. And as I have already indicated, the #1 rod and #1 main were also damaged. If I recall correctly, the tow truck company ended up paying for the installation of a replacement engine.
Fin

My guess is you may have bought it this way and the previous owner lost the oil pan and did like a VW dealership would do... patch it up and get rid of it. I'm also going to guess you are a passive driver, so you are getting away with it.

I do have replacement heads or you can drive it till it quits. Check the oil pressure. Remove the oil pressure switch that is on the passenger side of the oil filter housing. I still don't have the right size adapter, but I do have a 1/8" pipe plug adapter that I wrap up with wad of teflon tape and shove it into the hole. You aren't going to get 50lbs... it will stay put. If your idle oil pressure is less than 15psi, or it won't go over 25psi, you have an oil pressure issue and it's probably not just the cylinder head.
 

99.5blkjetta

Member
Joined
Jul 9, 2021
Location
East Tennessee
TDI
1999.5 Jetta Sedan, 2002 Jetta Wagon
Hey, there are several of my long-time allies pitching for me. Thank you... I am noted for taking the time to explain myself clearly if not excessively.

I'd pull the rest of the cam caps and take the cam shaft out to see what other damage there might be. The #1 saddle usually takes the worse hit. I would guess that at that age, the cylinder head would need some attention, but the bigger issue is trying to recover from that kind of damage usually means welding up the bottom journal and replacing the cam cap, then align boring the journals.

However, welding on a cylinder head that is over 250,000 old is a problem all by itself. The amount of oil that is absorbed into the molecules of the head make it very difficult to weld. Volcanoes of black come boiling out of the head, destroying the weld. Sometimes it works, but mostly, I spend 1 stick of filler rod before I give up. With the extra miles and years, I wouldn't think welding is a good option.

There are sets of journal bearings that can be installed into an ALH or AHU. The problem is, they never seem to work. Since it takes quite a big cutter to make the journal bearings fit and I've thrown away several heads using that technique that failed, I'm not spending the money on a journal bearing cutter the proper size to experiment with oil hammer is right. The cost to repair will probably outweigh the cost of replacement.

The greater force on the #1 journal is downward, from the pull of the belt on the cam sprocket. If you really think it's been running like this for 100k, who am I to argue? Maybe it will work. But I'm not a fan of the idea. Add to that, how the oil flows in this engine, that not only the #1 cam cap takes a hit when there is a loss of oil, but also the #1 rod bearing and the #1 main bearing usually are damaged.

I think I'd check the oil pressure at idle and at 2000 rpm to see exactly what you are running. I'm going to guess it's below 15lbs at idle and if it's not hitting 30psi at 2000rpm, you have more on your plate than you expected. I'd be pulling the oil pan to inspect the #1 rod and main journals.

Story: A customer went skiing in Breckenridge, Colorado and lost his keys somewhere on the slope.. Had to spend big $$$ to get his car towed to Denver VW dealership. The tow truck knocked a hole in his oil pan (Go figger...) The VW tech spent more of my customer's money for the replacement key started the car and let it run to warm it up, not knowing all the oil was gone. The car stopped all by itself...

This is like a Keystone cops segue.

The dealer told my customer they would replace the oil pan and it would be fine! :/

My customer called me... I got to talk to the tech and told him to pull the #1 cam cap and show that to our customer. It looked JUST LIKE YOURS. And as I have already indicated, the #1 rod and #1 main were also damaged. If I recall correctly, the tow truck company ended up paying for the installation of a replacement engine.
Fin

My guess is you may have bought it this way and the previous owner lost the oil pan and did like a VW dealership would do... patch it up and get rid of it. I'm also going to guess you are a passive driver, so you are getting away with it.

I do have replacement heads or you can drive it till it quits. Check the oil pressure. Remove the oil pressure switch that is on the passenger side of the oil filter housing. I still don't have the right size adapter, but I do have a 1/8" pipe plug adapter that I wrap up with wad of teflon tape and shove it into the hole. You aren't going to get 50lbs... it will stay put. If your idle oil pressure is less than 15psi, or it won't go over 25psi, you have an oil pressure issue and it's probably not just the cylinder head.
Thanks for the reply, Frank. Yes, you would be correct about my driving style, I do drive the car for mileage so it rarely sees past 2500 RPM. I have owned it for right at 3 years, and I have not had the oil pan break, engine has never been opened from 238K until just now at 301K when I did the belt. So unless there's currently an oil pressure problem like you mentioned (very possible), it probably has had an incident like the pan breaking and running out of oil at some point before I owned it. I'm planning on tearing into it likely this week and see what damage I find, and will report back. BTW, what is the cost of one of your rebuilt cylinder heads?
 

99.5blkjetta

Member
Joined
Jul 9, 2021
Location
East Tennessee
TDI
1999.5 Jetta Sedan, 2002 Jetta Wagon
Ordered a camshaft and lifters from Cascade German, going to replace them and hope for the best since it's made it this far. I really don't want to sink a ton of money into a cylinder head job if I don't have to. I guess I'll be the guinea pig.

Did pull the valve cover again yesterday and checked each lifter, a couple pushed up and down more than the others which barely moved vertically. So I'm guessing probably the source of the ticking was those two not pumping up properly. The ticking pretty much went away entirely when I let it warm all the way up to temp after checking the lifters. I had not let it run for any length of time after I heard the ticking the first time after changing out the turbo oil feed line, so that was encouraging. Started it up again after letting it sit several hours and same thing, was quiet and not ticking.
 

99.5blkjetta

Member
Joined
Jul 9, 2021
Location
East Tennessee
TDI
1999.5 Jetta Sedan, 2002 Jetta Wagon
Ha, I can't make up my mind. Started it up after a 30 degree night, no ticking at all, runs really good. I guess the lifters finally pumped themselves up. Thinking of saving the cam and lifters for when I actually have to replace the head due to a total failure of a lifter or the camshaft. I guess it's a game of wait and see how much longer it lasts. I would replace the cam and lifters now if I was confident it would not make things worse with the condition of the head and bearing cap.
 

BobnOH

not-a-mechanic
Joined
May 29, 2004
Location
central Ohio
TDI
New Beetle 2003 manual
I recommend following this advise-
That head needs to be rebuilt or replaced.

You can machine the ALH head for cam bearings (and lifter bore sleeves) if need be. But it would probably be less expensive to just find a different head and use that.
If you can source a good machine shop and you're willing to do the work, should not cost a whole lot more than that new cam+lifters.
 

99.5blkjetta

Member
Joined
Jul 9, 2021
Location
East Tennessee
TDI
1999.5 Jetta Sedan, 2002 Jetta Wagon
I recommend following this advise-

If you can source a good machine shop and you're willing to do the work, should not cost a whole lot more than that new cam+lifters.
It was approx 160 for the cam and lifters total, Cascade German had an incredible sale on the lifters.
 

fatmobile

Veteran Member
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Jul 16, 2019
Location
north iowa
TDI
an ALH M-TDI in a MK2, a 2000 Jetta, 2003 wagon
If you are going to run it without getting the #1 fixed,
then I wouldn't put the new cam or lifter in it either.
Save those for if/when you get a new head.
Just my cheap-ass opinion.
 

BobnOH

not-a-mechanic
Joined
May 29, 2004
Location
central Ohio
TDI
New Beetle 2003 manual
I think you're on the right track. You've had the car for roughly 60k miles, so it's possible there was previous damage.
Do a good assessment of the internals, even the crank and rod bearings, etc. Then get with Frank to explore your options.
 

Franko6

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
May 7, 2005
Location
Sw Missouri
TDI
Jetta, 99, Silver`
I suggested you remove the cam and show pictures of the journal saddles, and you buy a new cam and lifters set. It’s a cylinder head that’s torn up! Your cam was probably replaced when the cylinder head lost oil! based on the difference in wear from what the cam looks like and the cap, that makes sense. If you remove the #2 cam cap and there is no damage on the top, it gives more credence to being able to fix your cylinder head.

And you completely overlooked that the same damage could be on the number one rod bearings and the number one main bearings.

I don’t know what Nickmix got for a rebuild, that that hardly gets the job done. Maybe they pushed in some new valve guides and called it good. I can’t do 5-6 hours of work + parts on a cylinder head for $160.

To top it off, you’re not going to get a good cam follower that is below my wholesale price. That’s not going to happen. I have a strict rule about using high-quality parts. Ben Franklin had a quote about cost and quality. It’s not changed in 200 years. Incredible? Maybe. Not credible? Probably.

There is a method that the head possibly could be reworked by replacing the bad cam caps from the stock of take-offs I have from junk heads, but there is a limit to how effective that can be. The top caps are where the force of the cam is, mostly, so having a smooth cam cap does make a difference. Also, oil pressure from a worn cam cap does not only drop the oil pressure at the head, but throughout the entire engine. It behooves you to repair or replace the bad cam caps or the head for the overall life expectancy of the engine.
 
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Franko6

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Joined
May 7, 2005
Location
Sw Missouri
TDI
Jetta, 99, Silver`
I just saw something I didn't notice earlier. The engine is BLACK inside. There is either a LOT of blowby, you are doing very extended oil changes or you are using the WRONG oil. The engine should never show that sooty black. A well-maintained engine should have shiny aluminum under a light coating of oil that may carry some black, but would drip off for a clean finish. I'm thinking you might be using the wrong API oil, like SJ or SM. The correct rating would be at least the CJ-4, but preferrably the CK-4 rating and a 5-40wt oil.

Otherwise, if you are a real hyper-miler, you are lugging the engine all the time and that is super-hard on the pistons, rings and bearings.
 
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oilhammer

Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
Joined
Dec 11, 2001
Location
outside St Louis, MO
TDI
There are just too many to list....
He admitted that much, he said it rarely sees over 2500 RPM... that's not good. Heck, my ALHs run at nearly 3000 RPM most of the time cruising down the highway, and probably see north of 4500 daily.
 

Franko6

Vendor , w/Business number
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May 7, 2005
Location
Sw Missouri
TDI
Jetta, 99, Silver`
Brian, You and I certainly agree on that principle. Lugging an engines to create high mpg is a very poor practice.
 

99.5blkjetta

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Jul 9, 2021
Location
East Tennessee
TDI
1999.5 Jetta Sedan, 2002 Jetta Wagon
I have used Rotella T6 or Mobil Delvac 1 5W40 at 10k intervals for my whole ownership with mann or hengst filters. I noticed that too that the internals are black when I got the car. Apparently poor prior maintenance. It always struck me as odd since I have now owned a couple other alh cars that I have bought and sold, all of them were very clean under the valve cover.

I always keep the RPMs above 1500 on level ground, and always downshift to make sure its above 2000 when climbing any hill, but almost all of my driving is highway or interstate in 5th gear. I upshift at 22-2500 on level ground.

I don't know if this is any hint about blowby, but this car has always consumed oil at a rate of about 8 ounces every 1000 miles, been very consistent the 63k that I've owned it. I have to top off every 1000 miles because it gets to the bottom of the crosshatch area every 1000. I did check the turbo wheel after all this recently happened and don't feel any play in the shaft.

I have settled to save the camshaft and lifters for when I replace the head.

I bought INA lifters from Cascade German, so they're good quality. Camshaft is Febi or AMC according to Cascade German, it hasn't arrived yet so I don't know what brand they will send me.
 

99.5blkjetta

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Jul 9, 2021
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East Tennessee
TDI
1999.5 Jetta Sedan, 2002 Jetta Wagon
Oh I thought I should mention it, it's has some blue smoke at idle, and a little more on cold start. Haven't noticed any at highway speed.
 

99.5blkjetta

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Joined
Jul 9, 2021
Location
East Tennessee
TDI
1999.5 Jetta Sedan, 2002 Jetta Wagon
FYI, I got the car in February 2020, so have owned it 3 years. It was my first car, got it from a close friend who did a bunch of work to it (he bought it at 220K, did a timing belt, VR6 clutch, pp520 injector nozzles, RC3 tune, upgraded shifter box, several other things.)
 

Franko6

Vendor , w/Business number
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May 7, 2005
Location
Sw Missouri
TDI
Jetta, 99, Silver`
South Africa? I know of some lifters coming from South Africa that were stamped 'INA' on the underside, but ONLY 'INA'. There were pallets of 2400 pieces sold on the secondary market of 'overstock or obsolete' items. It's a lifter intended for the Mk 1, 1.6 NA IDI, 52hp engine. It is not intended for the 1.9 TDI. I've seen these lifters installed as replacement cam/ lifter kits that made 50,000 miles before they wore out. The part number is 034 109 309 AD and my wholesale price for them is $4.07.

But the CORRECT part # for a TDI is: 050109309H and will show INA F-46516-72 on the underside of the lifter.
 
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