silverbox
Veteran Member
Air lift users do you tee them together or have seperate lines?, I'm leaning toward seperate lines.
Air Lift Installed!!! Lift Pic Added
- Thread starter DIESELprogrammer
- Start date
uberdiesel
Veteran Member
I T'd my lines and brought the single piece to the back and secured it with the schrader air valve extending downward out of the rear passenger side valance. At the top of this thread dieselprogrammer shows a clever way of putting the valves in the fuel filler area.
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Resurrecting a dead thread..uberdiesel said:
Anyone install one in an A3. Or anyone have experience with both A3 and A4s? I just got a trailer for my birthday and my rear end is a little low to begin with (I think I might need new springs). When I add a trailer or load up the rear I definitely sag...
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Slave2school
Top Post Dawg
You basically have a strut in the back of the MK III IIRC, not going to happen unless Airlift makes a "O" version
DPM
Top Post Dawg
Was there ever a Nivomat option for the A3? Otherwise, you're looking at the rubber donut assistors, or an add-on. Dunno whether they'd be concentric with the strut or separate attached to the trailing arm.
These guys list a kit for the A3, don't know what style it is tho. Might be worth asking?
http://www.mad-suspension.co.uk/home.htm
These guys list a kit for the A3, don't know what style it is tho. Might be worth asking?
http://www.mad-suspension.co.uk/home.htm
cbass94
Veteran Member
Has anyone looked into setting up a small air compressor with this kit? It seems that an ARB air compressor like the kind that is used for air lockers in differentials would work perfectly. I just wonder if it would pump enough air though.
.15ktotheairport
Active member
I have a target lead acid compressor that would handle this and does the tires quite nicely. Cost $35 with metal valve and generous battery life, sometimes those chinese products hit the mark as much as I hate to admit it. My Jetta has a charging plug in the trunk for it... It won't handle handle 80 PSI in the truck in any sort of reasonable amount of time, though nor is it as cool as having a dash switch.cbass94 said:
I'm clueless about how to lift the front end with air for intown/dirt/ranch roads. Had been thinking about upgrading/replacing the suspension anyway +tie rods and bushings. Maybe I'll make it to a central Texas GTG and see what people have to say there.
jackbombay
Top Post Dawg
Air lift makes one that has a low pressure regulator so the bags will never drop below 5-10 PSI, you can set it (hobbs switch) to what ever you want.cbass94 said:
I have one, but it seems to leak at low pressure, above 15-20 PSI it doesn't leak at all, but at 7.5 PSI the compressor kicks on for a second or 2 every morning :-/ No leaks at any of the connections either...
jackbombay
Top Post Dawg
Are any of you guys having issues with the fitting leaking at the air bag
with cold weather? I sure am, the compressor runs every 30 seconds or so :-/ I pulled the fuse to stop it.
with cold weather? I sure am, the compressor runs every 30 seconds or so :-/ I pulled the fuse to stop it.
uberdiesel
Veteran Member
I haven't used mine under pressure in the cold; sorry I can't help.jackbombay said:
jackbombay
Top Post Dawg
Do yours hold 5 to 10 PSI through the winter? I'm reluctant to drive around with them at zero PSI, but don't want to wear out the compressor either, plus driving with no pressure in them is supposed to make them get holes in short order :-/
DPM
Top Post Dawg
I lost two airlift bags; they both hardened and then cracked. Both failures were at around freezing temps, nothing extreme. The first was replaced under warranty and I went to a different spring setup after the second.
c362137
Active member
Beetle vs Golf Springs
Does anyone know if the Beetle and the Golf have the same rear springs?
Does anyone know if the Beetle and the Golf have the same rear springs?
jackbombay
Top Post Dawg
What brand did you go to?DPM said:
DPM
Top Post Dawg
a revised coil spring and ARB setup, Mark. Too much hassle having to get stuff shipped internationally, warranty or not...
NarfBLAST
Top Post Dawg
Is this to say that the Air Lift 80753 kit can not be used below freezing temperatures? That would be a bummer... I was really interested in ordering it from Summit Racing.DPM said:
Also, it is possible to install the kit without removing the springs?
jackbombay
Top Post Dawg
Mine leak like giant holes in the winter, I have yet to use them this summer as they were leaking SOOO BAD last winter that I can't believe they could possibly hold air now, it does get COLD here, -30*F. Airlift says there should be no cold weather issues, fwiw.NarfBLAST said:
Without removing the springs you would need a giant pile of beer and swear words to get the air bags installed, it is really a lot easier and quicker to just remove the lower shock bolt and remove the spring, support the axle with a floor jack when you remove the spring as the shock does hold the spring compressed a bit.NarfBLAST said:
NarfBLAST
Top Post Dawg
Got my Air Lift Kit # 80753 installed today!
edit: I have switch to Jetta Wagon rear springs for a 2" lift, details here: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?p=3051671#post3051671
Finally the stance is perfect! Here are some pictures. I aired them down to 20psi and drove around and the height is slightly lower that when first installed at 50ps (edit: actually more like 30psi in these pictures because I was using a screw on type inflator that let out 20psi while unscrewing! I've since switched to a flip to clamp type pump and a found a digital gauge that works). I can't wait to drop the trailer on the back!
before:
after:
The Mity-Vac made the job if inserting the bags into the springs EASY!
So did a spray bottle of soapy water and the hint in the instructions about trying to roll the bags into hot dog bun shapes:
I put in the spacers top and bottom, with the car in the air the bags had about one inch of space to move up and down:
After that I did the most time consuming part, deciding where to run the air lines! I went with right about the tow hook to keep things simple and visible in case of leaks I can get at almost all parts of the hoses without removing anything:
From the rear...
Final picture... with 50psi, aired it down to 20psi and it went down to where there is just a little more space in the rear wheel well than the front. Instructions say to air up before applying heavy load then air down to taste. Will see!
Here is the quick link to the kit at Summit Racing: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/A...&part=AIR-80753&N=700+400054+115&autoview=sku
edit: Here is another thread on "Air Lift" brand products http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?p=2861420#post2861420
edit: I have switch to Jetta Wagon rear springs for a 2" lift, details here: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?p=3051671#post3051671
Finally the stance is perfect! Here are some pictures. I aired them down to 20psi and drove around and the height is slightly lower that when first installed at 50ps (edit: actually more like 30psi in these pictures because I was using a screw on type inflator that let out 20psi while unscrewing! I've since switched to a flip to clamp type pump and a found a digital gauge that works). I can't wait to drop the trailer on the back!
before:
after:
The Mity-Vac made the job if inserting the bags into the springs EASY!
So did a spray bottle of soapy water and the hint in the instructions about trying to roll the bags into hot dog bun shapes:
I put in the spacers top and bottom, with the car in the air the bags had about one inch of space to move up and down:
After that I did the most time consuming part, deciding where to run the air lines! I went with right about the tow hook to keep things simple and visible in case of leaks I can get at almost all parts of the hoses without removing anything:
From the rear...
Final picture... with 50psi, aired it down to 20psi and it went down to where there is just a little more space in the rear wheel well than the front. Instructions say to air up before applying heavy load then air down to taste. Will see!
Here is the quick link to the kit at Summit Racing: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/A...&part=AIR-80753&N=700+400054+115&autoview=sku
edit: Here is another thread on "Air Lift" brand products http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?p=2861420#post2861420
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Thorne
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2006
- Location
- SF Bay Area
Looks like a great solution for the rear, but what about the front? I need the clearance there also, particularly if the rear is raised...
I'm guessing my options for front lift are either the Metalnerd setup or possibly later-model Jetta VR6 springs?
I'm guessing my options for front lift are either the Metalnerd setup or possibly later-model Jetta VR6 springs?
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NarfBLAST
Top Post Dawg
I've had some rubber blocks crammed in the front for a while now and I'm very happy with the firmness and 1" lift they provide: see the link to in my signature under 2" lift in front
Update regarding the bags: I have them at 34 psi and they make the rear suspension noticably firmer than the front. When I go over speed bumps for example it feels as if the rear goes over the bump twice as fast as the front if that makes any sense? I suspect is has to do with the small volume of air being compressed. I wonder if there was an extra external volume of air connected to the hoses if the springs would feel softer at the same psi and ride height?
Update regarding the bags: I have them at 34 psi and they make the rear suspension noticably firmer than the front. When I go over speed bumps for example it feels as if the rear goes over the bump twice as fast as the front if that makes any sense? I suspect is has to do with the small volume of air being compressed. I wonder if there was an extra external volume of air connected to the hoses if the springs would feel softer at the same psi and ride height?
NarfBLAST
Top Post Dawg
Update: reduced air pressure to 15 psi and the rear only came down about an inch from the pictures and the ride feels right again, allthough a bit firmer than stock, which I like!
NarfBLAST
Top Post Dawg
Canadians ordering from Summit Racing...
Got my credit card statement today and thought I should post the real cost of this kit:
79.88 for this http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=AIR-80753
+9.75 special Canadian handling fee
-----
89.63 USD total converted by Mastercard Aug 15 to...$98.08 CAD
+24.75 USD for shipping converted by MC Aug 18 to...$26.95 CAD
Canada Post charged for taxes and handling..........$15.89 CAD
---------------------------------------------------------------
............................................Total: $140.92 CAD
Totally worth it.
Got my credit card statement today and thought I should post the real cost of this kit:
79.88 for this http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=AIR-80753
+9.75 special Canadian handling fee
-----
89.63 USD total converted by Mastercard Aug 15 to...$98.08 CAD
+24.75 USD for shipping converted by MC Aug 18 to...$26.95 CAD
Canada Post charged for taxes and handling..........$15.89 CAD
---------------------------------------------------------------
............................................Total: $140.92 CAD
Totally worth it.
I have a metalnerd 1" front lift kit you can have. I reduced the front lift to the 10mm ring sold by TDIParts b/c my VR6 springs made the front a little higher than the rear.
I user VR6 springs in the front and combined w/ the 1" lift kit it gave me 2", which a little too much in comparison to the rear.
P
I user VR6 springs in the front and combined w/ the 1" lift kit it gave me 2", which a little too much in comparison to the rear.
P
Thorne said:
McBrew
Top Post Dawg
BUMP!
I just bought the Air Lift 1000 #80777 kit for my Golf. I installed a Curt hitch last year and am in the process of building a teardrop camping trailer (approx. 900 pounds when finished). I will also occasionally be towing a cargo trailer.
I have the Air Lift bags in the front springs of my RV, which is a Workhorse P32 chassis. They make a HUGE difference in how it handles. Of course, they are pumped up to 85 pounds for that job! One of the original Air Lift bags leaked after about 4 years... so I replaced both of them. Originally (from the factory), you had to crawl under and fill them directly at the bag... but I added a remote setup with the fill points just under the front bumper.
For the Golf, I was thinking of running the air lines up into the space on the passenger side of the trunk... where you have to open the little hatch to get at the rear lights and the back of the 12v power outlet. As I'm working on it, I'm sure I'll change my mind for some reason. Since I have a bunch of the sitting around, I'll probably install a pressure gauge near the fill points so I don't have to use a tire gauge to check them all the time.
I just bought the Air Lift 1000 #80777 kit for my Golf. I installed a Curt hitch last year and am in the process of building a teardrop camping trailer (approx. 900 pounds when finished). I will also occasionally be towing a cargo trailer.
I have the Air Lift bags in the front springs of my RV, which is a Workhorse P32 chassis. They make a HUGE difference in how it handles. Of course, they are pumped up to 85 pounds for that job! One of the original Air Lift bags leaked after about 4 years... so I replaced both of them. Originally (from the factory), you had to crawl under and fill them directly at the bag... but I added a remote setup with the fill points just under the front bumper.
For the Golf, I was thinking of running the air lines up into the space on the passenger side of the trunk... where you have to open the little hatch to get at the rear lights and the back of the 12v power outlet. As I'm working on it, I'm sure I'll change my mind for some reason. Since I have a bunch of the sitting around, I'll probably install a pressure gauge near the fill points so I don't have to use a tire gauge to check them all the time.
nicklockard
Torque Dorque
Update from post #18:
I was having leaking problems with my air bags, so at our last local GTG in Salem I re-routed mine.
This time I routed the lines
1. From the airbags up through the upper spring perches, which required drilling a small hole at the top of each perch out toward the side (the perches are angled out somewhat.)
2. I then routed each line toward the torsion tube.
3. I ran a segment through the torsion tube.
4. I connected these 3 segments with quick-disconnect, 90 degree, plastic couplers like used for 1/4" drinking water lines. Cost ~$4.25each X 2
5. I tapped a quick-disconnect plastic "T" like used for 1/4" drinking water lines and connected another segment to join to the shraeder valve fill port which is located in my fuel filler door. "T" coupler cost ~$4.00.
I still have a mild leak because I chose to use higher pressure rated PE lines which don't seal as well to barbed nipple fittings. I chose these because they aren't prone to pinching like the PU lines were. I intend to soften the plastic at those points with a heat gun and apply an Oettiker clamp to get a good seal.
Nevertheless, I was able to sneak in a few psi and even that makes a huge difference when towing.
I am thinking I want to re-route the fill port to be inside the cabin in my center console with a "T" to connect one leg to a remote bourdon type pressure gauge so I can keep an eye on it, and the other leg to a 12V compressor mounted in the trunk. If you're doing much towing, I'm thinking the remote auto-fill system is probably worth it.
I was having leaking problems with my air bags, so at our last local GTG in Salem I re-routed mine.
This time I routed the lines
1. From the airbags up through the upper spring perches, which required drilling a small hole at the top of each perch out toward the side (the perches are angled out somewhat.)
2. I then routed each line toward the torsion tube.
3. I ran a segment through the torsion tube.
4. I connected these 3 segments with quick-disconnect, 90 degree, plastic couplers like used for 1/4" drinking water lines. Cost ~$4.25each X 2
5. I tapped a quick-disconnect plastic "T" like used for 1/4" drinking water lines and connected another segment to join to the shraeder valve fill port which is located in my fuel filler door. "T" coupler cost ~$4.00.
I still have a mild leak because I chose to use higher pressure rated PE lines which don't seal as well to barbed nipple fittings. I chose these because they aren't prone to pinching like the PU lines were. I intend to soften the plastic at those points with a heat gun and apply an Oettiker clamp to get a good seal.
Nevertheless, I was able to sneak in a few psi and even that makes a huge difference when towing.
I am thinking I want to re-route the fill port to be inside the cabin in my center console with a "T" to connect one leg to a remote bourdon type pressure gauge so I can keep an eye on it, and the other leg to a 12V compressor mounted in the trunk. If you're doing much towing, I'm thinking the remote auto-fill system is probably worth it.
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NarfBLAST
Top Post Dawg
Update. Mine are holding perfectly at 10psi. I never used any clamps, I just used the parts from the kit to two separate shrader valves from the kit as in my pictures. Simpler the better I believe. No leaks. Still smiling. I use a 12V pump to adjust and don't mind checking manually when I check my tires.
McBrew
Top Post Dawg
I received my Air Lifts yesterday and installed them when I got home from work. It took about an hour to install them (on the lift), and everything went well. I decided to "tee" the lines together and routed the fill valve to the unused hole in the rear bumper cover to the left of center. For now, I have not installed a pressure gauge. I have to see what if going to happen in the next month or so... I may be trading the TDI in on a new car... so I'll keep the installation simple for now.
McBrew
Top Post Dawg
Helpful hint for those installing Air Lift bags:
Squeeze the air out by laying the bag on its side and pushing the top and bottom inwards. When flat, the circles that make the top and the bottom of the bag should be on the same side of the bag. Put the black cap back on without letting any air back into the bag.
Here's the thing that really helped: When inserting the bag into the spring, put the BOTTOM in first (that should be the end with the air connection). Stick it into the second full-sized gap in the spring (from the bottom). Once the bottom is in, it is pretty easy to push it down until you can push the top in. This is MUCH easier than trying to push the top in first. Once I figured this out on the first one, I got the second one in with little effort (and without soapy water).
Once it is in, you can take the cap off to let it take in air and return to its normal shape. You can still move it around after it is back to normal.
Squeeze the air out by laying the bag on its side and pushing the top and bottom inwards. When flat, the circles that make the top and the bottom of the bag should be on the same side of the bag. Put the black cap back on without letting any air back into the bag.
Here's the thing that really helped: When inserting the bag into the spring, put the BOTTOM in first (that should be the end with the air connection). Stick it into the second full-sized gap in the spring (from the bottom). Once the bottom is in, it is pretty easy to push it down until you can push the top in. This is MUCH easier than trying to push the top in first. Once I figured this out on the first one, I got the second one in with little effort (and without soapy water).
Once it is in, you can take the cap off to let it take in air and return to its normal shape. You can still move it around after it is back to normal.