AHU no boost

[Mongler98]

Your in some sort of supper limp mode lol
Like your definatly not making boost and your in a low fuel map for sure.
I am very close to limp mode lol on a personal level!
You can drive a stock AHU in limp mode or with the boost pipe disconnected and both and still be able to get into all gears. It's just enough to get going but definatly not up hills or merging speeds.
There is definatly something else going on.

 

[Abacus]

You don't need a tune to run performance unless you delete things.

What do you think this means?

...the EGR is quite literally welded shut at the exhaust manifold.

Instant issue without having a tune, no matter how much the ECU is adjusted. The car can’t reconcile the MAF numbers when the EGR should be providing part of the flow.

 

[Kikto]

What do you think this means?



Instant issue without having a tune, no matter how much the ECU is adjusted. The car can’t reconcile the MAF numbers when the EGR should be providing part of the flow.

Thank you, I am at the point where I guess I have two options, either find a new exhaust manifold that isn't welded shut at the EGR, or buy a tune. I'm going with the chip tune, added HP/torque and I don't have to mess with EGR? (Even though I would rather have it) guess it's a win/win?

 

[Abacus]

There is zero reason to weld or block off or stop in any fashion the function of the wastegate valve on any and all turbos forcing more boost at a small level is fine with a mechanical boost controller. $10.
You must have a tune . And you must not push a turbo past its boost map or you will grenade it
Get a tune and fix the stupid welded shut issue.

He never said he did anything with the wastegate, where did you get the idea he did?

This is what he said:

...I know the n75 was swapped for this square box thing, the EGR solenoid is the same...

He said the EGR was welded shut, not anything having to do with the wastegate. If anything, I’l bet the square box thing is a manual boost controller, or some type of controller.

Kikto: remove the square box thing and get a stock N75 and N18 (controls the EGR), then get a tune to rule out the EGR issue and gain some more power at the same time. No need for a new exhaust manifold. It’ll be a win-win for sure.

 

[Mongler98]

man, i gotta lay off the late night posts after flying dog!

 

[Kikto]

So, here's a little tricking I did to my MAF. Before when I was blocking the MAF a little with my fingers, I noticed I could manipulate the numbers it threw depending on where my finger was, I wasn't really understanding how or what I was doing but now I understand. So first, I want to clarify, I know this isn't a fix at all, just manipulating the MAF I need to save up for the chip tune and I now have max boost and I can get up to 60 mph, probably have crappy mileage, can't tell. So I started with a piece of paper covering the MAF and the actual of MAF numbers started moving around, if it was more near the center it got lower and out edges it was higher. I took about 30 mins and I cut a hole in a square piece of paper and put it over the MAF and basically narrowed the amount of air that can get through. It now constantly reads 848 mh/H idk what that means but I get around 10 psi of boost now (maybe can actually get full boost if I fixed it). I can drive it, i do have a leak, right at the turbo and intake plastic, where the o-ring is, it's cracked and is old, got one coming in tomorrow from metalman. If I replace that o-ring and it still goes into limp mode, then I know I NEED the tune, even though I will be getting it anyway since it just doesn't make sense not to. Just thought I share that, I also made a ghetto intake leak tester for like $20 that really worked well, can't take credit, found a video that helped me.

 

[Kikto]

So, tune is in, EGR officially deleted, still have the same problem, I notice my manifold pressure is not increasing to specified with the MAF but my paper cheat still allows it to go as it should but over a couple mins it will go into limp mode for 00575 is it possible the map in the ECU is bad maybe I should search in the intake?

 

[Kikto]

So, upon further research of driving while having the MAF tricked, I have learned my boost steadies out at 15psi instead of 12, I don't know if this is a big issue but it does need to be fixed. I can also drive a lot longer without hitting limp mode if I keep it below 14psi. Not really sure what exactly the computer is controlling but I know when I adjusted the actuator arm, I shortened the rod all the way so... I think I should go back and make it so 15 psi makes the wastegate fully open and it just barely cracks open at 12-13 psi.

 

[Kikto]

I have checked all the MAF pins, everything seems right, where it should be,voltages correct, no high resistances... I went back to base with this one, stopped restricting the MAF and see what kind of data I could pull. Basically Map and MAF specified and actual never meet, even at idle. Injection quantity however is good until about 35% throttle where it's stuck at 17/18. Only other thing I see is boost valve duty cycle is stuck at 35% which looks normal but it stays there even at full throttle, until I let GO of the throttle does it snap to 50%+ and then go down... I'm kinda loosing hope at this point... Not sure what I should do at this point.

 

[Kikto]

So, I've been messing with just about everything but the map, map is NEVER on point with actual vs requested when at low rpms, it takes about 2-2.5 rpms to even start moving but its off, I see how it works, wondering if I should attempt to see if anything is wrong inside but there's a glue or ATV around the plastic case of it I don't remember it leaking or any of the sort but that's the only data I can't really manipulate to "working" hoses have all been replaced.

 

[ToddA1]

I’ve just been along for the ride. You seem to have your head wrapped around this VCDS stuff, much better than I do. You’ll get it figured out…

-Todd

 

[Steve Addy]

So, I've been messing with just about everything but the map, map is NEVER on point with actual vs requested when at low rpms, it takes about 2-2.5 rpms to even start moving but its off, I see how it works, wondering if I should attempt to see if anything is wrong inside but there's a glue or ATV around the plastic case of it I don't remember it leaking or any of the sort but that's the only data I can't really manipulate to "working" hoses have all been replaced.

Before I would start dissecting the MAP sensor inside my ECU I'd check to see if anyone close to me had a spare ECU you could use as a test unit.

Steve

 

[Kikto]

Before I would start dissecting the MAP sensor inside my ECU I'd check to see if anyone close to me had a spare ECU you could use as a test unit.

Steve

I had a buddy of mine come down with a spare good working ECU... Unfortunately, no change. The only other thing that's wrong with this car is that the fuel filter drains when it's shut off, which I got new check valves, but even so, it's not starving for fuel at all... Turbo or exhaust manifold is my last guess.

 

[Mongler98]

i have yet to see a VCDS log file... clearly this is the only option left other than throwing parts at it but you have been doing that fruitlessly.

 

[Kikto]

i have yet to see a VCDS log file... clearly this is the only option left other than throwing parts at it but you have been doing that fruitlessly.

Unfortunately I don't have VCDS but I do have Obdeleven, I figured out how to make a graph yesterday with any values I want in them.

 

[Kikto]

part 1

part 2
Heres some youtube videos of my graphs I got, I still have the files too, no idea how to post stuff like this on the forums, whatever info or testing you want me to do, let me know.

 

[Kikto]

So, ordered a MAF-less tune, guess my new and old MAF sensor were bad, I still got limp mode, pretty sure something with the speed that the turbo spools it's pretty slow (although I'm trying to find a good baseline to compare mine with) when it stops raining time to take the exhaust manifold off and the turbo to see for cracks or something otherwise I'm in the market for a new turbo, might as well get one with the manifold too just to rule all that stuff out, not hearing a boost leak at all but might as well set up some sort of leak testing device like I did for the intake side. Any brands I should avoid? These are expensive and might take me awhile to save up for.

 

[Kikto]

3 out of 4 gaskets for the exhaust gaskets were installed, this would be my slow spool, unfortunately the turbo is blown or a seal is out, when idling if I floor it smoke comes out of the passenger side under the hood and there's a whistling sound, not a boost leak but more like my turbo is scraping on the side of the housing. I'll probably find out where it's coming from just to be 100% sure and maybe I will just need a seal but most likely it's the turbo.

 

[Kikto]

Okay so, I messed up, turbo was okay, smoke was just coming from me not realizing there was a 4th gasket and it being oblonged, new gasket with the thick mesh installed, went ahead and installed a new turbo from kermatdi the ko3/ko4 hybrid, same thing. Everyone is telling me I should be blowing a little smoke (which I kinda don't want) at stage 1 especially with my adaptation maxed out... Starting to think fueling is my culprit. Going to look up how to clean injectors and look at my pump pressure and pick up if I have one. I don't think anyone's still following but I hope this helps someone else out there.

 

[Steve Addy]

Still watching, not sure where or what the '4th gasket' is in reference to...exhaust manifold?

I wouldn't think a Malone 1 tune would do much of anything smoke wise, unless other settings were modified, like IQ being cranked way up?

Steve

 

[Kikto]

So, there's two different types of gaskets for the exhaust manifold, for this car, individual gaskets for each port of the exhaust or one big one that covers all 4. I bought a new MAF and put the old stage 1 maf included chip in and it's slower than mafless so I'm not going to keep testing with mafless just so that's eliminated. I do have my IQ maxed via obdeleven, I have tried lowest and stock settings, I'm not really sure if it does all that much difference, can't really tell. I guess my next step is to send it to the dealer to have them properly boost leak test it. If that comes out good then I'm going to go for injectors, I've touched just about everything I can think of besides inside the engine (unless timing counts which a TDI guru did for me) if I do go for injectors I really don't want smoke but the biggest I can go before smoke happens just for power. My end goal is to get to the 1000 miles per tank club and travel a bit.

 

[Kikto]

Well, finally the search is over, injectors were worn out, the only one that was doing anything worth while was the third injector. I hope this helps someone else out in the future. Now I can enjoy my car finally, and time to upgrade my shifting and start getting this car ready to be owned by me forever.