Aftermarket exhaust nuts? Worth it?

[storx]

I keep finding the exhaust manifold nuts loose some on my car and I'm getting tired of replacing them and torque to spec.... Should I upgrade to different nuts or use some kind of thread locker?

This is what I found Honda guys use a lot... And seems to work
http://www.ebay.com/itm/25-M8-1-25-...CI%2BUA%2BFICS&otn=21&pmod=120869971943&ps=54

 

[Fix_Until_Broke]

I've never had that problem or even heard of it actually.

What torque spec are you using?

 

[Ski in NC]

Lots of heavy duty diesels use a longer stud to secure exhaust manifolds. Between manifold and nut is a tube maybe 1 1/2" long depending on model. The purpose of this is to enhance the spring effect of the stud so tension is maintained under all sorts of thermal conditions. Longer stud means a better spring in tension. I don't have a pic handy but marine 3406/3408/3412/C18 use this design. I think there is space to do the same on VW's. On second thought, maybe too tight???

 

[storx]

The dealer told me 19ft lbs

 

[DPM]

you have no manual?

 

[Honeydew]

Here is a link to locking tabs: http://www.034motorsport.com/turboc...cking-tab-m8-or-516-stud-or-bolt-p-18953.html

 

[Fix_Until_Broke]

Storx - are you only having trouble on the new tubular manifold or were you having trouble on the OEM turbo/manifold as well?

 

[A5INKY]

The dealer told me 19ft lbs

Sorry, but I call BS on the idea that you actually put a torque wrench on each exhaust nut. I don't think torquing them is even possible without a special offset crowfoot wrench and the corresponding alteration of torque value.

The OEM copper nuts have a "locking" mechanism known as an "elliptical offset" already, and are not known for backing off. I think you are either way under tightening them for some reason. Or, you have over tightened them to the point the studs are starting to pull the threads out of the head.

 

[vwmikel]

Those nuts you link to are the stock ones. If you're not already using them then you probably should be.

 

[storx]

I used a crows foot with torque wrench... I didn't know you have to account for the crows foot... I can torque all but 1 and the one was done by hand... Actually it's only one I not had to retorque yet now that I think about it... I guess I'm under torquing them then so how much should I add for crow foot

 

[LNXGUY]

I've never had a exhaust nut come loose. Snug them down, give them a bit more and you're done. Don't go full retard on them, but definitely make sure they are tight.

 

[A5INKY]

I do it like LNXGUY.

I used a crows foot with torque wrench... I didn't know you have to account for the crows foot... I can torque all but 1 and the one was done by hand... Actually it's only one I not had to retorque yet now that I think about it... I guess I'm under torquing them then so how much should I add for crow foot

But if you want to torque them with a crews foot you have to recalculate. Here's the formula:

http://www.engineersedge.com/manufacturing_spec/torque_wrench_1.htm

 

[Vince Waldon]

Those nuts you link to are the stock ones. If you're not already using them then you probably should be.

This.

Copper nuts, locking mechanism built in.

 

[storx]

I've never had a exhaust nut come loose. Snug them down, give them a bit more and you're done. Don't go full retard on them, but definitely make sure they are tight.

I did this.. i snugged them down and then gave it about 10 degrees more extra.. hopely this will fix the issue cause since the install i have had 2 exhuast nuts come completely loose and fall off between all the times i checked them and retorqued them.

 

[burpod]

you really need to make sure the studs are in tight as well and not using too much anti-seize...

 

[storx]

you really need to make sure the studs are in tight as well and not using too much anti-seize...

I used the origional studs from when i took the OEM turbo off.. but new Nuts..

 

[Vince Waldon]

I used the origional studs from when i took the OEM turbo off.. but new Nuts..

Still not clear if what you were using were the OEM copper exhaust nuts, with the oblong hole that makes them self-locking?

 

[storx]

i was useing the ones that come OEM on 2009 VW jetta TDI

 

[Rub87]

do you have a pic? the 2.0 tdi biturbo found in amarok uses some new type of torx nut, which resembles a bit the effect of the bushings found on industiral engines.. when I was removing the turbo it wondered me how 'loose' they where in comparison to the PD or ALH style nuts

 

[kooyajerms]

These are your friend.

-copper
-locking
-12mm
-gutentight

And I believe that's what we found on the exhaust of the Common Rail we were working on.

 

[Rub87]

not really, imo the good ones have a sort of built in washer, exh manifold holes are 9 or 9.5mm, these ones don't have it, I have had some cars where someone used these type of nts and the manifold always leaked sooner or later.. planing the manifold and using oem nuts fixes the problem

 

[ak47tdi]

Those nuts you link to are the stock ones. If you're not already using them then you probably should be.

Yep, I use these nuts with parallel ground washers from a 1.8T just for good measure.

 

[storx]

Yep, I use these nuts with parallel ground washers from a 1.8T just for good measure.

Hmm, what are these haha.. never seen them or heard of them as my 2001 audi tt 225 only had studs and nuts..

 

[ToddA1]

The ones you linked look to be the early VW style lock nut with the horizontal slice that puts tension on the thread.

The later ones that Vince mentioned are 13mm and have an oval hole that grips more of the theads. I've seen these with and without the shoulder.

FYI, I've read studs are only supposed to be installed hand tight. ARP makes a point of this in their instructions and includes parallel ground washers for precise torque specs.

Most people (including myself) double nut and tighten them in. Supposedly, tightening them in defeats the point of using a stud over a bolt. Something about how the tension is transmitted against the threads....

-Todd