I appreciate this encouragement. I have a 2004 Jetta wagon manual with close to 300k miles, love that car and have done a fair amount of work on it. This 2011 I've only had a year and a half or so, and I ended up kind of regretting not holding out for a manual trans shortly after purchasing it. Especially when the starter died (replaced that), then the check engine light came on, then the DPF light came on... I wasn't thinking I'd have this car long, but since deciding to do this procedure that has changed. Now I'm excited to see what it's like after this, and I suspect that doing this will be another little plateau in my confidence/competence for more involved repairs.
Advice for DPF next steps
- Thread starter ferson206
- Start date
Ah the MK4 Jetta, my favourite. I know they got some flack, but I've had two, one was a perfect car that I bought new and drove it for 185k trouble free miles before someone totalled it, and another was a piece of junk that I bought used and super cheap that managed to total itself when the engine blew. But I lkove that era, they still look modern and managed to somehow be cheap and feel more premium. Definitely a nicer place to be than any Camry I've ever been in.
Yeah I found myself in the same situation when I bought my JSW, dealer told me loads of great stories about fuel savings, trouble free, totally fixed by VW, everything's great please give us your money etc, and once I really dug in (which was my fault for not doing first) I started seeing all the problems on the horizon. But it's been a learning experience that's made me a lot more confident in my ability to do things on cars, and I've honestly grown to love this car a lot more after all of the time I've spent on it.
Yeah I found myself in the same situation when I bought my JSW, dealer told me loads of great stories about fuel savings, trouble free, totally fixed by VW, everything's great please give us your money etc, and once I really dug in (which was my fault for not doing first) I started seeing all the problems on the horizon. But it's been a learning experience that's made me a lot more confident in my ability to do things on cars, and I've honestly grown to love this car a lot more after all of the time I've spent on it.
Hey friends,
I'm part way through this project, seems to be going well. I noticed that when I removed the DPF from the turbo, there's a thin little metal gasket that was between those two parts, inside the ring clamp. Do I need to replace that? I have a new ring clamp ordered I can pick up today, and the clamp I removed also seems reusable. If the gasket is needed, is the old gasket reusable? I have no experience connecting exhaust pipes so don't know if that gasket is always needed or only with certain connections. Thanks!
I'm part way through this project, seems to be going well. I noticed that when I removed the DPF from the turbo, there's a thin little metal gasket that was between those two parts, inside the ring clamp. Do I need to replace that? I have a new ring clamp ordered I can pick up today, and the clamp I removed also seems reusable. If the gasket is needed, is the old gasket reusable? I have no experience connecting exhaust pipes so don't know if that gasket is always needed or only with certain connections. Thanks!
turbodieseldyke
Top Post Dawg
Gasket is needed, and i'd go ahead and re-use it. Make sure it goes in the right way, and it has little tabs that help hold it in place while you clamp it. But if you can order one at the same place you're getting your clamp, it wouldn't hurt to have a spare.
Oooh thanks. Is there an easy way to tell what's the "right way," or is that determined by the little tabs?
turbodieseldyke
Top Post Dawg
It has a convex curvature, should be able to figure it out by look & feel.
Thanks!
Ok got the clamps I need and am reusing gaskets. Directions I'm following (from Rawtek -- my kit didn't come with any directions) says to apply a little high temp gasket maker to these before installing. I'm about to install the new pipes and may check back later to be sure I've correctly reconnected what needs to be connected and left off what's ok being left off. 
The physical install is pretty much done - just need to connect the O2 sensor and figure out which other wires get reconnected. My new pipes have no other bung, so I think all the lower end wires that were connected to lower sensors and mounted to that plastic connection holder under the car can just get tucked away. I've read conflicting info on the pressure sensors under the hood. Rawtek instructions (not my kit but used their instructions for the removal) say remount to remount these and reconnect them electrically, even though passenger side will have no hoses going to it and the one behind the engine will have one of its original two hoses. Another source indicated these could be discarded.
Thanks all for the immensely helpful tips and encouragement. Took the car out off-road today. Much better drive feel, clear improvement in power and shifting (I installed a transmission tune in addition to engine tune), and a substantive improvement in mileage. I think I was maybe getting high 30s before, and on my roughly 100 mile test drive today I was around 44mpg. And no error codes.
ksing44
Veteran Member
Is it normal to get rough engine shutdowns after a DPF delete and tune? My understanding is that the DPF delete also includes blocking off the EGR, although I think it can also be completely removed. Do these types of deletes and tunes also disable the ASV? If they typically do, is there also a way to keep the ASV functional with a delete and tune? Just wondering about maintaining smooth shutdowns and also not risking a runaway engine situation.
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ksing44
Veteran Member
Thank you for your comments @DrGERTol and @ferson206. I should add that I read it's not real rough or violent, they just noticed a difference. There was just a little extra something, kind of clunk. But I think I will ask about it just to know if maybe it can be eliminated easily.
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Darkside 1.9 8v PD105 & 2.0 16v TDI PD, PPD and CR EGR Delete / Race Pipe
This kit replaces the EGR Valve and fits neatly between the Anti Shudder Valve and Inlet Manifold. Retaining the ASV means the engine still remains smooth when switching off the ignition, Here at Darkside Developments we only own and work with TDIs, so you can be assured that you are dealing...
www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk
"This kit replaces the EGR Valve and fits neatly between the Anti Shudder Valve and Inlet Manifold. Retaining the ASV means the engine still remains smooth when switching off the ignition"
ksing44
Veteran Member
^^Thank you @Garrison! I also found that kind of thing when searching. I think I'd like it just like that, no EGR but ASV functional. I may ask about that the next time I go to the shop. I think I'm also going to replace all the rusty exhaust pipes and muffler to be sure there are no leaks. I'm thinking just new OEM for the rest of the exhaust.
tjg
Veteran Member
It should be noted that the metal EGR tube that goes from the exhaust to the valve after the ASV is really annoying to remove, so you can just zip tie it out of the way. Just make sure its not rubbing against anything or interfering with the shifter linkages on top of the trans.
