AC clutch coil replacement

[3800rpmDiesel]

So I measured the resistance on my clutch coil & it is infinite so I have to replace it. I searched for info on this but couldn't find much. For example, do I NEED a puller to get it off? Any particular do's / don'ts people have learned???

generally seems like a "un-bolt, re-bolt" kind of job... but I could be wrong.

 

[gforce1108]

No puller - couple snap rings and the nut in the center from what I remember. I did it on a 2.0 Beetle which had very limited access to the clutch, but it was doable.

The hardest part was holding the clutch from spinning while tightening/loosening the end nut. I'm sure there is a special took to do it, but I was able to hold one of the 'nubs' with pliers and get it tight.

 

[zzi2u]

Simple questions (I hope).
2004 TDI Jetta Clutch coil needs to be replaced
1- is there any posts that cover the entire process? (Looked can't find)
2- Can the coil be replaced with out disconnecting the coolant lines on the compressor?
3- Is there any required tooling or can it be done with standard equipment?

Thanks in advance

 

[3800rpmDiesel]

No full write-up on here that I could find. I had my mechanic do this last week - he did need a puller - it depends on how 'easy' the clutch wants to come off. And no you do not need to disconnect any refrigerant lines - but it's easiest to unbolt the compressor to make things easier to get at...

 

[zzi2u]

Does the alternator need to come off

 

[3800rpmDiesel]

Does the alternator need to come off

No it doesn't

 

[Nutsnbolts]

No- the compressor is on the bottom, so you can get to it from underneath without removing anything but the belly pan and side cover. Definately easier to do if you unbolt the compressor and drop it down (leaving the refrigerant lines connected!). Then you can get an impact gun on the nut if it's really stubborn, or loosen it as described above. You will then need to remove a snap ring, then tap on the pulley with a rubber mallet to get it to come off. After that, there is another snap ring that holds the electromagnet on.

Make sure you have a large piece of wood or a jackstand to hold the compressor up while it's unbolted so that you don't put too much strain on the refrigerant lines.

-Rich

 

[zzi2u]

Thanks
I am going to try tonight or tomorrow, time willing.

 

[zzi2u]

Status update
1- removed R/H front tire assy
2- removed wheel well cover
3- removed ~2 lbs of dirt stuck between the cover and the rear area of wheel well
4- removed R/H side cover (belly pan already off)
5- disconnect the turbo intake to gain better access to pulley
6- remove serpentine belt.
7- removed bottom Compressor mount bolt using 3/8 air ratchet
8- While holding the belt tensioner pulley back I loosened the top Compressor mount bolt using 3/8 air ratchet.(second person needed)
9- With a long pry bar dis-engaged compressor from mount point.
10- using 3/8 air ratchet undid pulley nut and removed front plate.
11- removed the cir-clip ring.
**Now the tricky part. Trying gently to pry the pulley off with opposing pressure points and tapping the pulley with small metal mallet I stopped the job as a thunderstorm came in and it was getting dark. (My 19yr old son was my second set of hands and the work is being done just outside of my small garage).

Now for question.
I would love to use a proper pulley but have two issues.
First, I don't have one.
Second, even if I had one there is very little room between the pulley and the metal wall (compressor is sitting horizontal just to the right of its mount points).
I'm not sure where a puller hooks on the compressor pulley wheel. Is it on the diameter that rotates with the belt area or is it the metal plate in behind?

Thanks for any ideas
Rich T

 

[PDJetta]

Someone once posted on this list the instructions from Sanden on removing the compressor parts, I think. I know at least the compressor diagrams were posted.

The serpentine belt tensioner has two holes in it to allow it to be locked in the "released" position with a pin, nail, drill bit, etc. That will free up a hand.

"Removed ~2 lbs of dirt stuck between the cover and the rear area of wheel well "

Yes, its amazing the amount of crap that can collect behind the front fender liners. Don't forget to clean out the driver's side.

Let us know if the clutch replacement is successful.

--Nate

 

[Nutsnbolts]

If you have a plastic headed hammer or rubber mallet, you should be able to tap on the back and side of the pulley to push it free. You shouldn't need a puller.

-Rich

 

[zzi2u]

Here is today's update.
Last Friday I decided to give the job one more try. I purchased about 4 pulleys of varies types from Princess Auto (none Fit) so I did what any frustrated male would do. (actually just followed your suggestion). Instead of a plastic hammer I used a very small metal hammer but with a 1"square 12" long teflon drift.
What I did was tap the backside of the pulley towards the left hand side of the car, then rotated the pulley ~ 180deg then repeated. Once I saw some movement I knew I had it. I continued the process until I was able to remove the pulley by hand.

Thanks for the help. Now I just need time to put it all back together.

RT

 

[Nutsnbolts]

Nice! Keep us posted...

 

[zzi2u]

Completed process
1- removed R/H front tire assy
2- removed wheel well cover
3- removed ~2 lbs of dirt stuck between the cover and the rear area of wheel well
4- removed R/H side cover (belly pan already off)
5- disconnect the turbo intake to gain better access to pulley
6- remove serpentine belt.
7- While holding the belt tensioner pulley back I loosened the top Compressor mount bolt using 3/8 air ratchet.
8- removed bottom Compressor mount bolt using 3/8 air ratchet.(stays with compressor until you complete step 9)
9- With a long pry bar dis-engaged compressor from mount point.
10- using 3/8 air ratchet undo pulley nut and removed front clutch plate.
****Caution, be aware of the spacer that the clutch plate sits against this sets up the running gap between the clutch plate and the pulley**** (looks like a washer and sits on the shaft behind clutch plate)
11- removed the retaining-clip ring for the Pulley.(see POC #4)

*Next step I Tried a few different things but to save you time just used the following process or your on version*

13- Using a very small metal hammer with a 1" square 12" long teflon drift. Tap the backside of the pulley towards the left hand side of the car, then rotated the pulley ~ 180deg then repeat, continued the process until you are able to remove the pulley by hand.
14- Fight with the Clutch coil retaining retaining clip (remove), then remove clutch coil.
15- If needed transfer the electrical connector to new coil. and pre-pair for re-assembly.
16- Get a heavy reworking flat stone and remove any raised material on the clutch plate and the pulley where they come in contact with each other. (re-dress)

Points of Caution (POC)
1- minimize force on AC hoses
2- Don't forget the clutch plate spacer
3- remove retaining clip holding pulley before trying to remove
4- remove retaining clip holding clutch coil before trying to remove,
(used a pair of retaining clip pliers similar to snap-on Stock#: SRPC4700) 45deg
the angle on the pliers is a pain but allow you to access the clip holes from under the car.
5- try to avoid any metal to metal contact when removing pulley as the material is soft.(ref step 13)









The final chapter
On the rebuild an extra set of hands goes a long way.
17- place the new clutch coil at the correct radial angle to allow installation of the wire clamp to the compressor housing
be sure to align the anti-rotation lugs on the back with the compressor
18- Have a variety of Retaining ring pliers (preferably with a very long nose and angled tips. I was never able to install the ring all the way with the pliers. I had to engage the ring as much as possible then complete the install by pushing the ring with a large screw driver to the final position. ** ensure ring is all the way home **
*** Important**** install the clutch plate spacer on the shaft now as this can be difficult after the pulley is on ***
19- coat the inner diameter of the pulley bearing with lubricant (thin) then install by hand.
20- Install retaining ring clip same as item 18 *(little easer)*
**If spacer was not installed after item 18 then follow this instruction.**
21- Because of horizontal installation: apply some sticky grease or compatible substance to the back of the clutch plate seat face, place the spacer on the grease and centralize with the spline diameter. Take note of the master spline orientation on both the compressor shaft and the clutch plate to simplify the install. Offer up the clutch plate carefully to the shaft as to not move the spacer. Once installed ensure there is enough threads for the retaining nut to confirm that the spacer did not get caught up on the fit diameter during the clutch plate install. If seated correctly install the nut and torque as tight as you can (air ratchet helps). If not seated try again.
22- Install electrical wire clamp to compressor body.
23- Engage the electrical connector and install on the mount clip of the compressor.
24- With the top bolt started in the compressor mounting hole. Position the compressor for installation starting with the bottom bolt. Once aligned start bolt thread finger tight, then pivot compressor moving the top bolt to align the installation. Start threads by hand on the top bolt. Apply final torque of both using sockets…
25- Using a large pry bar going from the top (two person process) jam the lugs on the clutch plate. At the same time from the bottom torque the 14mm retaining nut. Caution don't let the top person drop the LARGE pry bar on your head.
26- Install serpentine belt then release tensioner
27- Start engine remain at idle and check the function of the A/C system.
** ensure all is clear in the engine area before starting **
28- Assuming A/C is working (or your just fed up). Shut off engine then install items 1 through 5.

Again Thanks to everyone and hope this saves someone some time and $$.
**Stay Cool**

Caution I tried to be as detailed as possible but might have forgotten some items.
Please be sure to use caution when doing this of any other work and remember safety first.
**Also use this process at your own risk.**

RT

 

[zzi2u]

good luck

 

[JRedig]

Bump for an old thread, where did people source the A/C clutch? I've checked a number of places and all anyone has is the complete compressor for $350+. Part number handy?

TIA

 

[Lightflyer1]

I used this one with good results.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VW-JETTA-AC...Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ab84d3863&vxp=mtr

 

[JRedig]

Thanks for this thread guys, got my A/C clutch switched out and have cold a/c again! Just in time for a 95 degree day tomorrow.

There are a few things that are different for PD from the progression here...I didn't have to pull the wheel and going through the bottom isn't any fun because the power steering pump is there. Best option is to remove the intake pipe and the alternator, then it's right there. The angles for getting at the face of the compressor to do the swap are a PITA, but doable.

 

[Lightflyer1]

What clutch did you use?

 

[3800rpmDiesel]

For those of you in Canada, or those who don't mind ordering out of country; here is an excellent source for OEM caliber replacement parts:

http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/roseland/VWPartsA4.htm

Not the most sophisticated website, but quality parts at great prices, and a very nice guy to deal with.

Under 'heating & cooling' is the clutch coil - $98.

 

[ger164]

Thanks for the detailed and good humoured approach...much appreciated...