ABS light on after brake job. Bad pump?

[BeetleDragon737]

I've got an ABS problem. My dash light is on, and with a VCDS scan, I get:

01276 - ABS Hydraulic Pump (V64)
16-00 - Signal Outside Specifications

From the ross-tech site:
Possible Symptoms

• Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) ON

Possible Causes

• ABS Hydraulic Pump (V64) Connector to Control Module faulty
• Wiring and/or Connector(s) faulty
• ABS Hydraulic Pump (V64) faulty
• Brake Electronics Control Module (J104) faulty

Possible Solutions

• Check ABS Hydraulic Pump (V64) Connector to Control Module
• Check Wiring and/or Connector(s)
• Check/Replace ABS Hydraulic Pump (V64)
• Check/Replace Brake Electronics Control Module (J104)

I'm not finding many people discussing this problem. Most people mention checking fuses on top of the battery, etc, but that's not a listed cause for this specific code. Reseating the fuses also did not help. I took a look at the connector between the ABS module and the pump, and it looks fine. No chafing or other damage. When it says "Wiring and/or Connector(s) faulty" which wires and connectors could it be talking about? Not the wheel speed sensors, right?

I recently did a bunch of brake and suspension work on the car and I'm expecting the light to be related, but I don't see how it could be. After the job, the reservoir had been bled dry, so I ran the brake bleed procedure a few times in addition to a standard bleed. Could running the pump dry have caused it to fail? If so, wouldn't that have been a mechanical failure rather than what appears to be an electrical failure here?

Do the pumps actually fail that frequently? Or is it more likely that it's just a coincidence this issue popped up now? Should I dig in there, pull the connector plug, clean it, and plug it back in? Any ideas?

 

[Stupendous60]

Did you disconnect the battery before repairs?

 

[BeetleDragon737]

I did not disconnect the battery.

How would that affect things?

 

[Stupendous60]

three of mine have done what you described after repairs involving disconnecting the battery -two timing belts and one booster.
Although the booster in mine necessitated removal of the ABS module. I cleared DTCS and they did not reset.
I suspected ABS saw low voltage at some time and threw the code.
If yours will not clear, disconnect the battery, disconnect/check/reconnect ABS connector and try to clear.

 

[BeetleDragon737]

I'll try that tonight, thanks.

When you mention checking the ABS connector, do you mean the two-wire piece between the module and the pump?

 

[tgray]

I went through this with one of mine. Put a straight pin through the wire close to the abs module. Check voltage with the car turned on at the pin. You should see the same volts as at the battery post or you have a bad connection up by the battery fuse block. I have never seen a pump fail but only the connections get corroded. Maybe some have but these modules are pretty reliable. Also, don't try to just randomly stick another one in just to try it out. They need to be programed and the right one for your car.

 

[tgray]

It also can be a bad ground wire going to the pump.

 

[BeetleDragon737]

Disconnecting and reconnecting the battery did not work unfortunately.

Put a straight pin through the wire close to the abs module.

Which wire is this? And could you guide me to the location of the ground wire for the pump?

 

[BeetleDragon737]

Just a couple other notes.

When I clear the code, it comes back immediately.
And earlier when I tried removing + re-inserting the fuses, the light went off for maybe 50 feet of driving, then came back on.

 

[Stupendous60]

Bad connection somewhere, not faulty module at least..

 

[tgray]

There you go. You messed with the fuses and it seemed to go away. If you take that fuse block apart you will see the problem most likely. They are a grade above junk from the factory. Once you get corrosion in there they are ruined. Look at your fuses and see if they seem corroded. Iike I said earlier. Take a pin and stick it through the power wire to the ABS and then test the volts and see what you find - with the key on. IF this is the problem then I think the best solution is to buy a quality new fuse holder to match the amps and solder it direct and by pass the VW factory mess.