AAZ engine swap not cooling. Hose routing?

6erWebb

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As some may know I have an aaz engine swapped into my suzuki samurai. We just got it running and got moving down the road and it slowly but surely went on up to 250...

We shut it off let it cool and came home. Looked and decided maybe the hose routing isnt right.. Ive got hoses going everywhere. And when we removed the two going to the radiator nothing came out of the top one... so we have a huge bubble?

So two questions. What is the proper hose routing and how do we purge the air from the system?



The routing I have? Lowest hose on the water pump running from the bottom of the rad. Upper hose going to the side of the head. And the reservoir the little hose comes from the head and the larger one tee's into the one coming from the rear of the head and both go to the middle outlet on the pump. The upper outlet on the pump goes to the side of the head also.


Any help I reaaaaallllly appreciate guys I know Im at fault somewhere.

-webb
 

Alchemist

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Here's what I see in the Bentley drawing. From thermostat housing on bottom of pump to lower rad. Note the thermostat goes in with the sensor pellet up. Lower outlet on back of pump tees to oil cooler and metal tube to heater core, with tap to reservoir. Upper outlet on back of pump tees to oil cooler and flange on side of head, then to upper rad. Flange on end of head to heater core. This is all the drawing shows, but if it isn't enough to get you going, I can check one of the engines I have here tomorrow. Filling the system is a bit of a pain, but get as much in as you can and let the engine warm up til the fans come on and it should be good. Hope this works for you.

Paul
 
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6erWebb

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Well the bentley is what I went off of to route the system. But that small mention of the thermostat has me wondering if I may have flipped that over.

And as far as bleeding the air do I just raise the reservoir up (not solid mounted yet) and open the cap?
 

G60ING

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lets see a picture of the belts, maybe the water pump is being spun the wrong way.
 

G60ING

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Also its easy to get an air pocket in the system. I like to fill both sides of the coolant system by removing a hose on the radiator and pouring water into it and then down into the engine. Then squeeze the hoses to get air out.
 

ToyotaTDI

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The VW system is reverse flow, its actually a litte confusing. I posted some details and diagrams about it here.

Maybe sure you apply heat directly to the thermo or it wont open. I also spun my water pump the wrong way the first time I put my serp on :D. You should have heat in the heater core in minutes
 

6erWebb

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Dang I didnt think about that! I swapped it over to vee belts to use a specific alternator so its spinning the same way as the crank pulley.. is that the correct way?
 

6erWebb

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ALSO, in every other car Ive worked on the spring on the thermostat went towards the engine (thats how I had mine in) BUT since in the vw system coolant comes to the engine through the thermostat is the spring supposed to point to the radiator? Or the engine?
 

G60ING

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The thermostat can only be installed one way, I tested this to answer questions like this the last time I installed one.
 

Ski in NC

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Loosen up the highest hose on the cylinder head and vent out any air. Depending on how the hoses are run, there might not be any natural vent path for air to get out. Photos of compartment would help.
 

6erWebb

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Certainly, I should have posted them sooner.









I hope these shoddy pics are helpful enough. And I forgot to say theres no heater yet, and Im running two 1000 cfm fans on a rabbit radiator.

So I figured out that yes G60ing I did have that thing in there right, and Im almost positive the water pump spins correctly (short of pulling it off and spinning it).

SO Ive succumbed to the problem being an air bubble. So I poured coolant into the radiator AAANNND into the block ANND into the reservoir and followed a bleed proceedure entailing squeezing the upper hose. Well I couldnt get any bubbles out but the low hose stayed fairly cool and so did the far end of the radiator. And upon test driving it stayed around 190 200 UNLESS it got into a low rpm strain as in first gear slow up a hill... then it would creep up, not to 250 but..

So thats where we are now.
 
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6erWebb

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Okay bled a little (or tried to) and it seems to like about 190 until the egts get on up, good pulls or running hard brings those temps on up. keep bleeding?
 

DIESEL DAZZLER

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Aaz cooling

I see that the rad is upside down in the photo,thats ok but you need vent line from the top of rad to the coolant bottle .Thats what the original setup has.The vent hose at the coolant outlet on the head is lower then the rad so air and steam stay trapped in the rad.Nice install looks good.
 

6erWebb

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Thanks! We wondered that when we put it in and simply blocked it off, it has a small vent hose coming from the plastic flange on the left side of the head but I need one from the radiator as well? should I tee them together to the bottle?

Small update, Went for a drive and its still doing the same thing, under load gets hot cools down at idle.
And I did some looking and Im leaking water somewhere under the flange on the left side of the head. I can see water sitting on the lip between the head and the block which now has me worried I have a blown head gasket. The coolant doesnt smell anything like anything other than coolant though.

So any other way without some special tools to diagnose a blown gasket?

And Im sorry to keep piling on the questions but my number 4 injector seems to be weeping constantly around where it goes into the head...
 
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6erWebb

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Okay, Update. I dont think the head gasket is blown. What I was seeing at the head and the block was the fuel from the 4 injector.

I did find that the water leak I have seems to be coming from that neck on the side of the head and it seems to be broken... so. Then it occurred to me. Could the system be getting air from a leak?
 

Ski in NC

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Okay, Update. I dont think the head gasket is blown. What I was seeing at the head and the block was the fuel from the 4 injector.

I did find that the water leak I have seems to be coming from that neck on the side of the head and it seems to be broken... so. Then it occurred to me. Could the system be getting air from a leak?
Yep. Fix that and see what you get.
 

6erWebb

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Well I patched the small crack in that flange (also ordered a new one) and removed the thermostat.

Well did the ol water on the stove test (even though I keep reading its a bad idea with these thermostats... for whatever reason) and it didnt open until it was really boiling.

So I left it out. and went on a good drive. It sat at 150 and rarely got up to around where that thermostat was supposed to open... so. Who wants to give me a trail of ideas as to what this means?
 

6erWebb

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While Ive got this thing hot can some one shed some light on this?

This line coming from the fourth injector is weeping and has a hokey looking bolt holding in the diesel... which isnt working.

And the truck always takes a couple tries to start as if it is losing a bit of prime or something. Is there supposed to be a destination for this hose?


 

Alchemist

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That is a return line which should go back to the return line on the pump and then to the tank via the filter T. If the line to the pump is coming off the #1 injector that should be plugged, but one end of the return line has to connect to the fitting on the pump. There is a proper plug to block off the port on the last injector, but that line and bolt will do the job.

Paul
 

6erWebb

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Thats odd because the line is dripping wet and that line is new. And the one from the number 1 injector is going to that return.
 

rdkern

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The cap that is usually used to cut-off that path must have started leaking and was replaced with the tube/screw. Source a new cap for that side of the injector.
 
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