Yes, all the wires on the new harness matched up fine (I didn't test the plug for the rear window defroster wires, but that shouldn't matter, right?) - everything plugged in the same except the connector for the lock cyinder microswitch being a black three-wire plug instead of an orange two-wire plug.
I don't have a key for the Euro lock cylinder, but it's possible to reach the little white toggle switch that gets activated by turning the key and I tried pushing it both ways - it did indeed operate the locks of the other doors in the car, though I didn't try holding it to operate the windows (whoops, would have been a good test).
When I hit the keyfob trunk button or the door switch with the Euro setup installed, the hatch doesn't "pop," it starts listening to the rubber door handle switch, and when that is pressed, *then* the lock pops open.
Thanks for the help - other then checking whether the windows can be rolled down via the hatch lock, anything else to try? Or is it time to track down VDS-Pro and start comparing EEPROM? I don't have any other components I'm looking to install the require CCM recoding at the moment, but as long as I'm going to hack the CCM I might as well activate the remote-operated windows!
