A4 Jetta Euro Trunk Latch

[squire89]

the difference is in the fact that there is no pocket to begin with. there is just a flat piece of metal between the license plate lights. he would have to cut a section to place the pocket into before he could even contemplate putting in the euro wiring and it actually doing something

 

[blizzard60]

Oh geez, I see!! I thought he was talking INTERNALLY the switch, etc was different... I understand now how this could cause issues!!

 

[JettaGetUpandGo]

Another slight issue is the wiring diagrams I've seen floating around are for the older 1J0 CCM. I haven't seen anyone add this to a newer Jetta with a 1C0 CCM (02.5+ ish)

 

[blizzard60]

My car is an '04 with a 1C0 CCM.

 

[squire89]

alright, so did you have to add anything to the car as far as wiring to get the popper to work? i ask because yes i understand that i'll have the complete euro wiring, but i'll still need to add something im sure to the car side of the trunk lid connector which i'm sure is similar to what you had to add for wiring on the car side...

 

[squire89]

that is unless i can piggy back power to the popper with some other power source.

 

[blizzard60]

Let me clarify a few things! First, I have a wagon. Second, my hatch doesn't "pop" open now. It is just that the switch is live when my doors are unlocked. I hope that makes sense?

Wagon owners have a huge advantage. In 2001 (and maybe 2002), the wagons sold in the states came with the EURO set-up stock! The emblem/lock in the hatch, and the associated wiring.

Now, AFAIK, there is NOT DIFFERENCE in the wiring from the front of the car TO THE TRUNK. That is certainly the case in the wagon. So ALL I had to do was buy the emblem/lock for the hatch (same p/n whether sedan or wagon, alexi posted it above), and the "wiring harness for rear lid" from the early wagons. Install. Done.

No splicing, or other wiring needed. No modifying of the car's "body" harness.

I hope that helps!
-Chris

 

[greekdubber]

straight from my Bora owners manual...applys for Sedan/Estate and there is a difference in the wiring too guys besides year to year sedan vs estate ...like I said before the lock cylinder is also different

 

[Fix_Until_Broke]

After almost 3 months, I've finally taken the time to actually work on this little project .

I read through all the posts in the linked threads above and spent a few hours with the Bently wiring diagrams and my multimeter tracking things down.

There's a few different ways that you can go about it and depending on how OEM you want it to be, it can be relatively simple or complicated.

I, being generally lazy, decided to go the relatively simple way .

Jumping right to the answer, you need to install the "euro" handle assembly with the microswitch on it. Picture and part numbers blatently stolen from tongsli's 1st and 2nd post.

Handle: 1J0 827 566 H
Microswitch: 1J5 962 104
Connector: 1J0 973 802 (optional)
Repair Wire: 000 979 132 (optional)

All of this was included in the handle assembly from ryanp (shown in the right side of the picture in Post 1 of this thread).

1) Remove the trunk lid liner
2) Remove the two screws holding the handle in (T25) and replace it with the "euro" one.
3) Take one of the two wires from the switch and ground it anywhere you can find a good ground
4) Take the other wire and run it to the front of the car using whatever path you choose.
5) This wire can be connected to one of two places
--5a) The wire from Pin 2 of the 23 pin connector in the Central Control Module for Comfort System (in front of your left knee as you sit in the drivers seat). If you use this location, the valet lock will not disable the handle switch when the car is unlocked.
--5b) The wire from Pin 1 of the 5 pin connector on the trunk switch (E188) in the drivers door. If you use this location, the valet lock will disable the handle switch when the car is unlocked.

This will function just like the switch in the door:

When the door is unlocked, the trunk will open with the switch in the trunk lid.

When the door is locked, the trunk will not open with the switch in the trunk lid.

When connected as in 5b - the Valet Lock will disable the trunk lid switch.

If you're really cheap and DIY, you could install any normally open momentary switch of your choice anywhere you want (presumably in the trunk lid grab handle), and wire it as described above and it would function the same. You're basically just wiring a switch to ground in parallel with the existing switch in the drivers door.

Now, I have not actually installed any of this yet, but I have tested it out with jumper wires and such and it worked for me. I need to get a longer piece of wire to run from the trunk latch to the door switch and another free afternoon to run the wire.

Hope that helps. I'm really looking forward to this new feature and I'll update this again when I actually get it working with scanned in pages from the Bentley manual and some pictures.

 

[blizzard60]

Honestly, don't you think it is easiest to install the Euro wiring harness so you don't have to run any wires?

 

[squire89]

but what he's doing makes sense. there must be some difference on the car side of the harness as well. because he does have the euro trunk lid harness, but on the car side of that connector, there should be some difference to make this function. i'm guessing

 

[squire89]

on another note, you should do this and help me once i get my euro trunk lid in my hot little hands


upon rereading what i wrote above, i guess it does depend on if he is using the us spec harness or the euro one...

 

[1tdi]

Now, AFAIK, there is NOT DIFFERENCE in the wiring from the front of the car TO THE TRUNK. That is certainly the case in the wagon. So ALL I had to do was buy the emblem/lock for the hatch (same p/n whether sedan or wagon, alexi posted it above), and the "wiring harness for rear lid" from the early wagons. Install. Done.

No splicing, or other wiring needed. No modifying of the car's "body" harness.

I hope that helps!
-Chris

Ok, so in order to do this, all that is required is the wiring harness, and the latch? So what is the estimated cost of this?

 

[Fix_Until_Broke]

Honestly, don't you think it is easiest to install the Euro wiring harness so you don't have to run any wires?

I considered that, however, either way I need to run a wire from the front of the car to the back of the car and I figured it would be easier to run a single wire rather than remove an existing harness and all of it's connections and replace it with the "euro" one.

Also, the "euro" harness does not have the same pinouts as the "us" one does on the 5 pin connector (for example) so I'd have to swap pins around on the harnesses anyway to make it work. I didn't check every wire, but I don't think there are any extra wires running through the existing "us" harness, and if there was, you'd still have to splice it into the above mentioned location either on the door switch or at the control module.

 

[Fix_Until_Broke]

Ok, so in order to do this, all that is required is the wiring harness, and the latch? So what is the estimated cost of this?

For a 2003 Jetta Sedan, you just need a momentary switch to ground that ties in to the existing trunk switch in the drivers door.

The part in the picture in my post above was ~$50 in 2003 when tonsli posted those pictures. You can check the dealer (not sure if they'd have the euro part available in the US?) or someone like ryanp who has a lot of euro parts and can ship them relatively cheaply to the US.

blizzard60 has a wagon and from what I've read, they operate differently for some reason or another than the sedan.

No need to change emblems, lock cylinders, etc. You can go through all of this (this was the "complicated" way I spoke of in my post above), but to get the basic functionality of the trunk handle switch that allows you to open the trunk when the car is unlocked, you don't have to.

If you want the trunk key switch to operate like the "euro" one (3 positions instead of 2 like in the "us"), and you want the car to be "just like a european car, in europe", then yes, you can get all the parts, the euro comfort control module, replace the entire wiring harness from the trunk lid to the front of the car, new "euro" door cards that don't have the valet lock, etc.

 

[squire89]

so based on what you were saying above, all you really need is the actual handle and the micro switch? and when you wire it to the switch on the door, is that like hitting the switch on the door to release the trunk?

 

[Fix_Until_Broke]

Yep - that's it.

If you're really cheap and a DIY'er, you can get any normally open momentary switch and drill a hole in your non-switch handle and install your own switch that you hit with your finger. Not as nice and clean as OEM, but it could be done.

 

[squire89]

well i have one euro trunk in my shed, and another one on the way(first was destroyed) so i'll have two to play around with

 

[79TA7.6]

I have never tried, but are you not able to open the trunk from inside the car at the door panel if you had pressed the lock button on the remote? If you were able to do so then I don't think would be correct, would it?

Just curious as I like this idea.

 

[JettaGetUpandGo]

Just buying a weatherproof switch and drilling a hole where the "pocket" is may be the best option for us with the 04.5+ trunk lid.

Matt, how bad is the bottom of the trashed Euro trunk lid? Too damaged to cut at weld above the plate and use the bottom half?

 

[squire89]

sent a message...

 

[Fix_Until_Broke]

I haven't forgotten about this - I have the wire, just need to take the time to it. Everytime I open my trunk I say to myself "Gotta run that dang wire and get this thing working".

 

[Fix_Until_Broke]

So I finally took the time to run the wire and put everything together - AND IT WORKS!!!

Follow the instructions in Post 39 and it will open the trunk when the car is unlocked (1 door or all 4) and it won't open the trunk when the car is locked.

Some pictures - the wire I ran to the door switch is purple, the ground wire I ran to the trunk lid is green.

A close up of the connector in the trunk lid - I used a pair of Fork style connectors and held them apart and to the mating connector with zip ties. Kind of ghetto but it will work. I didn't feel like cutting up the complete euro harness that RyanP sent me just for that connector.

Follow the purple wire...It was kind of a pain to fish it through the existing "tube" from the trunk lid to the chassis, but I didn't want a random wire dangling around.

Over the rear wheel arch - it's run through some of the OEM wraps, but not all of them.

On it's way up to the drivers door

Through the original wiring path at the hinge and then wrapped around the OEM harness down to the connector.

Bad close up of the connection to Pin 1 of the 5 pin connector for the trunk release switch. The purple wire is wrapped around the pin and then soldered.

And a picture with it complete and plugged into the door switch - The picture is looking up from the bottom at the back of the switch.

Of course, I can't find the fuzzy screws that hold the trunk lid liner on from a month ago when I took it off so I can't put that back in yet. I remember putting them "Somewhere where I'll be able to find them again" but now I can't.

The ground wire is just connected from the switch to a ring terminal and sandwiched under a convienent nut on the trunk lid nearby. The single purple wire was tough enough to get pulled through the tube and the ground works fine here. You could tie into another of the switches ground wires though if you wanted.

It took me ~5 hours to run the wire. None of it too complicated, but tedious work pulling a bunch of the trim off, pulling the wire through the existing loom, running a fish wire to pull it through the spots that you can't push it, soldering the connections, etc.

Special thanks to RyanP for sending over the Euro parts and tonglsi and everyone else's previous work. I don't think I broke any new ground here, just hopefully summarized it so it's easy for someone else to do.

Another modification that the car should have come with from the factory.

 

[mech644]

Congrats!
now sort out how to do this to MKIV Golfs and I'll pay you!

 

[JettaGetUpandGo]

Congrats!
now sort out how to do this to MKIV Golfs and I'll pay you!

Doesn't the MKIV Golf have a handle back there already that "unlocks" with the doors?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Fix_Until_Broke]

What is the issue with the Golf's? Don't the Golf's have a mechanical latch on the back to open the hatch? Never opened one personally.

Admittedly (and selfishly), I didn't pay much attention to anything "wagon" or "golf" when I was figuring out how to do this on my Jetta sedan. I do remember there being something different on the wiring diagram for a Golf though.

 

[mech644]

Same but different on Golf.
yes there is handle, but it only functions if it is "armed" by either pulling rocker switch in door or hatch button on key fob. Handle will only stay "armed" for set amount of time. Entire car can be locked then unlock it and hatch handle is dead unless you arm it.
Can't be altered via VCDS or VDS-PRO, I looked into it when I had my windows programmed to up/down via key-fob.
Difference is that I THINK the euro stuff you just installed is no workee for a Golf. I read it somewhere (here or on vortex). I've spent ALOT of time searching on both places for a proven mod, no joy in Mudville. 'Course I say that and then someone will respond with "you dope, I found this ,,,,, in .5 sec of searching". I truly hope someone does, absolutely willing to be called a dope if it brings a solution. After the OEM EGR/CCV system that hatch lock stupidity is top of my list of dislikes about VW.

 

[Fix_Until_Broke]

The only "euro" thing I installed was the handle switch where you lift the trunk lid up so nothing special there - it's just a normally open momentary switch.

mech644 - Just for something to try, sitting in the car with all the doors closed and the key in hand, lock the car with the fob and see if the rocker switch in the door will open the hatch or not? If it does not, then unlock the car and see if the rocker switch will open the hatch (I assume it will). Then, wait the "set amount of time" and see if the door rocker switch will still open the hatch.

Basically, if the rocker switch in the door will operate the hatch the way you want it to, then you can do exactly what I did on my Jetta sedan. Just a wild guess?

 

[JettaGetUpandGo]

Since the GLI never had the pocket like the older trunk lids did, I'm on the hunt for a normally open momentary switch. I'm certain it'd be easier to drill a small hole for a weather proof panel mount switch than to cut the opening and add the OEM rubber pocket.

 

[Mike_V]

Today I attempted to do the wagon hatch mod as described by blizzard60 et al. to my 2003 Jetta Wagon. I found a three-wire lock cylinder/microswitch assembly from a Bora via the forum, and bought the rear hatch wiring harness for the Euro/early US wagon (part 1J9 971 726A). Popped off the hatch paneling, swapped in the new lock cylinder/microswitch, and plugged in the new harness - only to find that the lock seems to behave exactly the same as before! When I unlock the car, the hatch isn't "live" until I also hit the door panel switch or remote button, and after closing the hatch, the hatch activation switch again becomes unresponsive until I hit the remote or door panel switch again. Obviously, not what I was hoping for! Is there something I need to do other than simply swapping out the wiring? Any ideas for any tests I could do on the Euro lock cylinder to troubleshoot whether that's the culprit? Thanks for any tips!