A3/B4 Ignition Switch Replacement Procedures

Joined
May 24, 2011
Location
UP Michigan
TDI
98.5 Jetta
Hilljack,
I also put the glow plug relay in wrong spot. Smoked something. Now no cruise, horn or turn signal. Replaced switch. still nothing. Any other ideas? Thanks
 

rdkern

Top Post Dawg
Joined
May 21, 2004
Location
Humboldt Co CA
TDI
Passat 1997 silver (sold after 11 years), Jetta 2000 atlantic blue
Hilljack,
I also put the glow plug relay in wrong spot. Smoked something. Now no cruise, horn or turn signal. Replaced switch. still nothing. Any other ideas? Thanks
Fuses? 13, 15, 17 may or may not have anything to do with it.
 

MarsBar

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 28, 2008
Location
San Jose, CA
TDI
B4V#2 "Flash", 2000 Jetta GL, B4V#1 "PaTuDI" (2008-2018 RIP)
Having issues that may be ignition switch related, but would love the opinions of all you folks.

Relay 109 and Relay 18 getting hot (both brand new), as in almost too hot to touch, after maybe 10 minutes and the 109 is showing signs of failing again. Don't have any issues with turn signal or wipers, but I can make the radio turn off/on by wiggling the key when it's in the ignition.

What are your thoughts on the gremlin that's wreaking havoc on my car???
 

TonyJetta

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Sep 15, 2005
Location
Tucson, Az
TDI
'15 Jetta TDI SE / '06 Jetta TDI DSG Pkg0 / '96 Passat TDI
You may need a new lock cylinder. While you're in there, replace the ignition switch.

Tony
Sent from my e-diesel fleet
 

tigers2007

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 8, 2010
Location
Michigan
TDI
'97 Passat TDI Sedan (B4)
I have a question relating to the "Vise Grip" method -- do I clamp the VG around just below the collar (not too light as I'm assuming it needs to slide too) and then put the puller jaws around the vise grip? Anyone have a photo?
 

deezulmark

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 18, 2006
Location
Elizabethton, TN
TDI
96 Passat Wagon
Let's hear it for TDIclub and this sticky! Nothing like pictures and descriptions and even link to online video to take the fear and trepidation out of a job like this.

My symptoms were the starter not engaging sometimes. Would take an extra off/on cycle or three with the key. Quickly progressed to no start unless you held the key in the start position and put side pressure on the key, tilting it upward.

After reviewing all the info, I chose the "pull the entire wheel and column" method
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?2532481-new-ignition-switch-install

Removed the driver seat which made it easier to get under the dash.

One good thing about this method vs pulling the wheel and collar is that you can't put the steering wheel back off-center. The steering shaft HAS to be in the right spline when you put it back in the U-joint or you can't put the bolt back in. That was the trickiest part, but only took a couple of attempts. After watching the video of the puller method, and now that I'm done, I think I still would have chosen this method even if I'd had a puller tool available to pull the collar.

Started well after 9AM this morning and am already done (before 11:30) and totally cleaned up including vacuuming out the entire driver area while the seat was out, then cleaning and greasing the seat tracks. Part was $10 at NAPA.

Someone mentioned that there was a recall on the switches for the 96 Passats. Called the dealer with my VIN, but they didn't show anything.

Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread. VERY helpful!!
 

BKmetz

Administrator, Member #10
Staff member
Joined
Sep 25, 1997
Location
Illinois
TDI
2015 Passat, titanium beige, 6MT
The recall expired years ago. It was only on a certain range of VINs. After about 5 years and 100,000 miles VW's position is it's a wear item and replace as needed.

:rolleyes:
 

curtludwig

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 8, 2013
Location
Winchendon, MA
TDI
1998 Jetta, 2005 Golf
Heres something I didn't notice in any of the instructions, you MUST have the ignition unlocked when you go to pull it.

It didn't occur to me until AFTER I broke the ignition housing tabs off and then ruined the lock itself. Your puller will pull directly on the locking tab, not only can you never get the housing out it seems to cram something up inside the lock which will then never allow it to unlock again (well maybe not never but I got so frustrated I had to quit. I finally pulled the whole column.

BTW the big wrench technique for pulling the collar as in the German video works great. You need a 5 ton (or larger) 2 jaw puller, it can't be smaller and at least with my wrench can't be a 3 jaw.

Edit: Turns out the lock itself isn't ruined, just had to push it back in with a screwdriver and it works right again.
 
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johnastephens

Active member
Joined
Oct 21, 2003
Location
Florida
TDI
1997 Red Passat, 2005 Grey Jetta, 1998 Cummins Dodge Ram 2500 Crew Cab 975 HP 22 MPG
I just replaced my ignition switch. I was going to use a snap ring and a puller method but I couldn't find a snap ring so I welded flat iron on both sides of vice grips for the puller to pull on. everything worked out great. While I had it apart I saw that the turn signal and wiper switches could be dissembled so I took them apart and cleaned them out and put some noalox on all of the contacts. I couldn't get the cruise switches apart so I spread the plastic with a screw driver and put some noalox in in the cruise switches. My cruise switches haven't worked so good in 10 years. That Noalox is some great stuff.
 

Abacus

That helpful B4 guy
Joined
Nov 10, 2007
Location
Nobleboro, Maine
TDI
See signature for TDI's
I can't believe I haven't posted something on this thread yet. Here is my method, which is simple and takes about 1/2 hour total. I've done about a dozen so far without a single problem.

Originally from this post, as well as others:

I use a bearing splitter and a piece of Uni-strut. I bought the bearing splitter at a yard sale and the Uni-strut I pulled off the scrap heap. Ignition switches being a pain are a thing of the past with this setup and I always keep it in my tool box.




 

Jzallan

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 28, 2012
Location
Cambridge mn
TDI
2001 jetta TDI, 2002 jetta TDI, 1996 Passat TDI, 2004 Passat TDI
I saw a few symptoms from a bad ignition switch early in the post. I have a 96 passat I don't drive that often (want it to I last forever) and just recently the memory, like the clock and mileage shut off when I turn the car off? The odometer turns off also. I just wondered if this might also be a symptom of a bad ignition switch?
 

Abacus

That helpful B4 guy
Joined
Nov 10, 2007
Location
Nobleboro, Maine
TDI
See signature for TDI's
More like a bad cluster. Send it to Derek White at ChubsAuto and he can probably fix it for you.
 

Windex

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Apr 1, 2006
Location
Cambridge
TDI
05 B5V 01E FRF
I can't believe I haven't posted something on this thread yet. Here is my method, which is simple and takes about 1/2 hour total. I've done about a dozen so far without a single problem.

Originally from this post, as well as others:

I use a bearing splitter and a piece of Uni-strut. I bought the bearing splitter at a yard sale and the Uni-strut I pulled off the scrap heap. Ignition switches being a pain are a thing of the past with this setup and I always keep it in my tool box.




The first time I replaced my switch, I removed the column. I used this method the second time, and it is faster, as long as you have to tools (bearing collar and puller shown above).

Note, the switch and housing will not come off unless the KEY IS IN THE ON POSITION. I made the mistake of beating on the switch/lock housing a little too much until I realized that the ignition lock was still holding it onto the column.

When you go to remove the switch housing, insert your key and turn it to "run". :D
 

98fire

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 3, 2014
Location
anchorage alaska
TDI
96 passat tdi sedan
Ignition Switch. Hey everyone. I'm new to the site and saw posts about the ignition switch. I recently bought a 96 passat tdi and it has crazy headlight issues. I,m not mechanically inclined naturally so i usually have my repairs done at a shop (yea, I'm one of those guys) ,and they told me there is a recall on that switch which includes the screw and I just dropped it off last night up here in Anchorage. So they are installing it complimentary. I'm cautiously optimistic. The recall was from 2002. Thanks for the earlier posts explaining the fritziness of a bad switch. It helps me understand more of what's up. Also I'm looking into doing work on the car myself and would like to buy a factory repair manual if anyone has a line on one. Or suggestions of what other manuals are helpful. Maybe if anyone reads this they can take advantage of the recall as well and save a few.
PS: Shoot me a private message with manual info. Thanks
Sincerely 98fire
 

98fire

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 3, 2014
Location
anchorage alaska
TDI
96 passat tdi sedan
Just got off the phone with the dealer. They installed the new switch. That didn't fix the headlight problem. So after 3 hours of diagnosis they've informed me I need a new fuse box a load reduction relay and 2 connectors. And now my headlights don't work at all. Not too fun. Anybody got any info?
 

TonyJetta

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Sep 15, 2005
Location
Tucson, Az
TDI
'15 Jetta TDI SE / '06 Jetta TDI DSG Pkg0 / '96 Passat TDI
I would clean the chassis grounds near the battery.

Tony
Sent from my e-diesel fleet
 

98fire

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 3, 2014
Location
anchorage alaska
TDI
96 passat tdi sedan
Just got off the phone again and they said the plug that goes into the fuse box is melted in the white and green slots one of which is the headlights. they said they cant get the plug back in. Bummer. Is a new fuse box the only answer?
 

Abacus

That helpful B4 guy
Joined
Nov 10, 2007
Location
Nobleboro, Maine
TDI
See signature for TDI's
I doubt it. I'd have to see what they're referencing (pictures) but may have what you need. The terminals are easy to remove from the fusebox so unless the box itself is melted I doubt you need a new one.

Here is a handy electrical diagram you'll probably want to bookmark: CE2.




 
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98fire

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 3, 2014
Location
anchorage alaska
TDI
96 passat tdi sedan
WOW!! YEA!! That diagram rocks! On the pic the advisor sent me the affected part is either H1 or J. And of those 2 its the #1 slot. The part im confused about is in the diagram the position of the offset part at the bottom of the connector near the #9 position on H1 or the #10 position on J.
 

Abacus

That helpful B4 guy
Joined
Nov 10, 2007
Location
Nobleboro, Maine
TDI
See signature for TDI's
That is where the connectors lock into the center bar. To remove the connectors, you have to slide the center bar over so the terminals will be released. If you don't, then the terminals won't come out since the bar locks them into place. The bar is a single bar that goes the whole length of the fusebox and it slides to one side to release the terminal locking tabs.

If you look at the blue connector in my second picture you can see the locking tab on the lower right.

I can get pics tomorrow so you can see it better.
 

hip001

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 14, 2008
Location
Gainesville, Georgia
TDI
2006 Jetta TDI BRM DSG
Next time I'm in here I might try to rewire the wiper lever positions. Am I the only one who is bugged that the lowest lever setting is "intermittent," not "off"? =)

I want it to go off>int>low>high, which only makes sense.
I agree with you slam!
 

hip001

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 14, 2008
Location
Gainesville, Georgia
TDI
2006 Jetta TDI BRM DSG
New switch.....woohoo

Thank you guys for the info! I chose the pull the steering column and was very quick. Hardest part was the lil screw holding the switch in place and working in the Florida heat. I used a long flat blade screw driver and caught the edge of the Phillips slot. Works great! Now I'm deciding if I wanna tackle the blend door while I have it partially apart.
Thanks again for the info! Who knows what the Stealership would of charged for this repair! Time for a cold drink! :D
 

BigAndy

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 19, 2002
Location
Northern BC
TDI
99 A3
The first time I replaced my switch, I removed the column. I used this method the second time, and it is faster, as long as you have to tools (bearing collar and puller shown above).
Note, the switch and housing will not come off unless the KEY IS IN THE ON POSITION. I made the mistake of beating on the switch/lock housing a little too much until I realized that the ignition lock was still holding it onto the column.
When you go to remove the switch housing, insert your key and turn it to "run". :D
This is how I'm doing it next time.
 

Stromaluski

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 23, 2013
Location
Greenville, SC
TDI
'67 Deluxe Bus, '80 Rabbit Truck, '92 Corrado, '01 S8, '13 CC

laquerhead

New member
Joined
Jul 23, 2012
Location
Texas
TDI
1997 Jetta
I replaced my switch this morning. I tried using the clips with a puller and it didn't go well. The clips rode over the projection in the collar started to damage it. So I tried vise grips but it didn't work. This is the first time the collar had been pulled so it didn't surprise me. It was stubborn after 19 years. I pulled the shaft and then put the collar in a vise and used pullers attached to the vise to break it loose. Then I removed the switch housing. This made it easier to get the screw out of the switch and also without all the weight on the top end of the shaft it was fairly easy to line the shaft up at the bottom. If you get in the same situation there is always something that will work.
 

ZachdkingNH

Active member
Joined
Jun 1, 2014
Location
Prescott AZ
TDI
B3 Passat w/ 1z TD
Had to do this a few months back and figured I'd add my two cents- Removing the steering column was EASY! the puller method isn't worth it, at least not for me.
 
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