A/C Fix You May NOt Need A New Compressor

[TmpaFL2000Dsl]

Ive come across this scenario more than once now. I have a 2000 Jetta. I live in FL so A/c is important most of the time. I dont know if anyone else has posted this info, but here is what i experienced i hope it helps someone.

Here's the details:
-warm air from vents during the day & semi-cool at night
-Compressor engages fine
-high and low side pressures almost equal
-no leaks system has full charge

I came across an article a year ago(dont remember who wrote it, if i find it i will post it) that talked about the sanden sd7v16 compressor. It is a variable displacement pump. There is a control valve in to back of the pump that controls the displacement of the pump. My pump was pumping but just not enough. So i ordered a new control valve and some gaskets and a receiver/dryer(always recommended), and some r134a and oil.

After discharging the system, remove the back of the pump with the 7 or so bolts at the back of it. The reed valve plate will then come out and the control valve is bolted thru it with a nut to hold it. Replace the valve and reassemble with new gaskets. Then recharge system and BAM I have cold A/c again.

I ordered parts from Polar Bear Inc in ft lauderdale (helpful people there)
control valve PN# EX 10067
gasket set PN# GA 4567KP
PAG46 oil
Dryer PN# 10018

Anyone else have this problem or is it just me?

 

[Dave_D]

Mine went a few years ago and I wasn't as lucky as you were. The shop told me that the compressor had disintegrated internally scattering metal throughout the A/C system. Needless to say the compressor needed to be replaced. Symptoms were similar to yours, but of course pressures were equal.

Dave

 

[clintontull]

i have an 03 beetle my issue is.

fuses were check in cabin and on the battery all are good.
light on ac switch turns on.
compressor does not engague.
fans do not turn on
attached r134a to low side. (passenger side of car near headlamp) pressure read more than guage listed.

Any ideas?

 

[brons2]

Ive come across this scenario more than once now. I have a 2000 Jetta. I live in FL so A/c is important most of the time. I dont know if anyone else has posted this info, but here is what i experienced i hope it helps someone.

Here's the details:
-warm air from vents during the day & semi-cool at night
-Compressor engages fine
-high and low side pressures almost equal
-no leaks system has full charge

I came across an article a year ago(dont remember who wrote it, if i find it i will post it) that talked about the sanden sd7v16 compressor. It is a variable displacement pump. There is a control valve in to back of the pump that controls the displacement of the pump. My pump was pumping but just not enough. So i ordered a new control valve and some gaskets and a receiver/dryer(always recommended), and some r134a and oil.

After discharging the system, remove the back of the pump with the 7 or so bolts at the back of it. The reed valve plate will then come out and the control valve is bolted thru it with a nut to hold it. Replace the valve and reassemble with new gaskets. Then recharge system and BAM I have cold A/c again.

I ordered parts from Polar Bear Inc in ft lauderdale (helpful people there)
control valve PN# EX 10067
gasket set PN# GA 4567KP
PAG46 oil
Dryer PN# 10018

Awesome fix man! Great stuff!

 

[DanG144]

I was hoping to do the same last year, but the compressor was trash.

Look at post #77 here.

I still have the new control valve, if anyone needs it.

 

[clintontull]

I have fixed my ac.
I put a jumper power source on the compressor see if it would turn on! Bing it did!. Then i plug it in and it fail. Did this about three times just to see if it would automagically work. Well in the process of doing so i saw that the wire rubbed enough on the compressor from vibration it wore through both wires and corroded them. Spliced on two new wire and Im in business!!!

It was just on the inlet side of the compressor where the wires were rubbing against the housing. Almost missed it..

 

[Bayshore-TDI]

TmpaFL2000Dsl Excellent Jetta Mechanic

TmpaFL2000Dsl diagnosed and fixed this AC issue with my vehicle, when two other mechanics had advised me to get a new compressor. He was dead on and saved me hundreds of dollars on this repair. We opened the compressor and the oil, gaskets, o-rings were in pristine condition.

He took the time to show me how the compressor function internally and we were able to physically tell the "spring" pressure difference between the old adjustable valve and the new one. The new one had significantly more resistance, while the orginal spring was like a bad shock absorber.

Since replacement, I'm blowing 40F around town and 38F on the hwy, frigg'n beautiful! He called it and didn't gouge me on labor hours or over priced parts. Between refrigerant, oil and parts (valve, gaskets, orings, accumulator) spent $110 and labor was very fair. He's straight to the point and logically minded, no wishy washy crap.

I also had him adjust my fuel injection pump which he came out early on a Sunday morning and had my vehicle tuned perfectly.

Don't think I'm a slouch with the wrench either, before calling him I'd replaced my starter!

 

[WolfTDI]

Thank you TmpaFL2000Dsl!!!! I was having an intermittent loss of air conditioning for quite some time now. I put off the repairs as my commute is pretty short now. I bought a set of gauges and saw good pressures initially, but within a minute or two the low side would start to rise and the high side would start to drop. I was told I needed a new compressor. I just could not rationalize how the initial pressures could be good if the compressor was shot. I came across your thread and it all started to make sense. I ordered the parts from Polar Bear per your suggestions and got the system evacuated and charged. I have my ice cold air back!!!! Thank you so much for sharing your experience here.

 

[SheeB]

Whenever a system is evacuated, is it necessary to add the pag oil when recharging?

 

[PolitesTDi]

I've been told I need a new A/C clutch (there is a jingling in my A/C) to get it pumpin' again. Will this fix work for me? My folks live in Tampa. It's where I bought the TDI. Wish I would have had you look at it while I was there!

 

[TmpaFL2000Dsl]

WolfTDI great to hear your a/c is working. Its nice to have helped someone out.
TranscenDieselIst your clutch may be bad or it may just be loose. But either way the clutch is likely a problem.

As to weather or not to add oil to a system, that depends on how much was lost when evacuating it. If lines were taken loose or the compressor was taken out, then some needs to be added but the amount once again depends on how much was lost. If in doubt flush the system out and start fresh that way you know how much is in there.

 

[PolitesTDi]

Tmpa do you know where to find a clutch? Do I have to buy the entire compressor? I just saved a butt load on fixing a faulty vacuum seal that I thought was something more major (brakes) so, I'm willing to pay the $$ for the compressor, I just need to know what to buy. Thanks so much!

 

[TmpaFL2000Dsl]

Try Polar Bear Inc in ft lauderdale, FL. I dont know if they will have it but i tried all of my other sources and haven't come up with one. I have replaced a couple compressor clutches before but not on this particular pump, so maybe t is not available. The people at Polar Bear should be able to tell you if its available.

On a side not how much space is between the clutch plates on the pump, and is it loose at all?

 

[MAXRPM]

I'll try this fix in my car,, do you guys know around how much is to buy all these parts from polar Bear?

 

[TmpaFL2000Dsl]

For valve, dryer, and gaskets its around $70 I believe; less than $100 for sure. Of course you will need refrigerant and oil also.

 

[chrgnu]

compressor oil amount 2000 jetta

does anyone know how much oil goes into a new compressor. it didnt come with any instructions with oil amount.

 

[five7driver]

Chrgnu, Bentley manual says 4.6 oz +/- .5 oz (anybody chime in here and correct me if I'm wrong) total for system. The compressor holds approximately half of that total, and it's my understanding that new compressors are shipped filled with the total amount of oil needed in the system. You could verify this by pouring it out into an accurate measuring cup/cylinder.

 

[DanG144]

Do verify how much the compressor has in it. One guy bought one the other day and it only had 1.5 oz in it.

The volume is right on, 2.5 oz for the compressor. Half an ounce for the drier, and half an ounce if you lost all your freon - most leaks carry some oil out.

So I would add 3.5 ounces, all in the compressor, if I was doing it to mine.

 

[MAXRPM]

I am a noob when it comes to A/C systems and have a question for the A/C savy gurus, I just finished replacing the A/C compressor, drier and the valve, , I went to a shop to recharge the unit, and they put in 1.5 lbs, of 134 refrigerant, is this the right amount of 134? here in SF is always in the cool side so it is kind of hard to test it on the freeway,,, but I have a trip going south and would like to make sure they put the right amount, cause I would see temp over 100 deg on my future trip, and would like to make sure that I have enough 134 to cool the car. thanks in advance.

 

[DanG144]

26 +/- 1.8 oz. is the proper amount.

They put in 24 oz. Though it is on the low side of the spec, your AC will work fine. Typically these systems will work very well down to about 50% charge. Or so I have read.

 

[MAXRPM]

26 +/- 1.8 oz. is the proper amount.

They put in 24 oz. Though it is on the low side of the spec, your AC will work fine. Typically these systems will work very well down to about 50% charge. Or so I have read.

I went back and had them put in 3 more oz in the system so that is 1.8 lbs., hopefully now it will cool better, thank you so much.

 

[respond2us]

Could this be my problem too?

Ive come across this scenario more than once now. I have a 2000 Jetta. I live in FL so A/c is important most of the time. I dont know if anyone else has posted this info, but here is what i experienced i hope it helps someone.
Here's the details:
-warm air from vents during the day & semi-cool at night
-Compressor engages fine
-high and low side pressures almost equal
-no leaks system has full charge
I came across an article a year ago(dont remember who wrote it, if i find it i will post it) that talked about the sanden sd7v16 compressor. It is a variable displacement pump. There is a control valve in to back of the pump that controls the displacement of the pump. My pump was pumping but just not enough. So i ordered a new control valve and some gaskets and a receiver/dryer(always recommended), and some r134a and oil.
After discharging the system, remove the back of the pump with the 7 or so bolts at the back of it. The reed valve plate will then come out and the control valve is bolted thru it with a nut to hold it. Replace the valve and reassemble with new gaskets. Then recharge system and BAM I have cold A/c again.
I ordered parts from Polar Bear Inc in ft lauderdale (helpful people there)
control valve PN# EX 10067
gasket set PN# GA 4567KP
PAG46 oil
Dryer PN# 10018
Anyone else have this problem or is it just me?

My symptoms are exactly the same as above. Pressures are equal at about 150. I don't know a lot about ac systems, but since this sounds so familiar to my situation, I thought I'd ask. Any way to know for sure before ordering parts?

 

[respond2us]

Ok, update on my ac issue. I pulled the back off the compressor tonight, expecting a bunch of oil to dump. However, there was very little. What little oil there was had a gold metal flake in it...like the insides of the compressor were pretty jacked up. So, I'm guessing my compressor is toast. I assume it happened when my fan fuse blew a couple weeks ago, but not sure.

Haven't decided if I'm going to fix it right now or just endure the heat. At least I have a good idea what the issue is. Thanks for all the help.

 

[DanG144]

Not only is your compressor ruined, you must do a VERY good job of flushing the system if you are to avoid problems with your new compressor.

All it takes is one metal flake in the wrong spot, and your new compressor will not control.

 

[jaredaggie]

Great help here guys, really appreciate it. I believe my control valve is also likely the culprit for my decreased cooling efficiency. I opened my compressor up and it looks very nice and clean, everything moves freely, clutch functions well, etc. I ordered the discussed parts today to replace it, as noted above from PolarBear out of Florida. I also have to say what a great outfit they are. Very very helpful.

I do have a question for you guys who've done this already. I was able to remove the control valve from the compressor no problem, but I am not sure how to remove it from the suction valve reed and other gaskets, where it is secured.

Also, once you install all of these back together, is there a diagram where it should all be oriented? Specificlally, how do the discharge and vacuum reeds need to be aligned?

Thanks for the help.

 

[DanG144]

google sanden compressor pdf for exploded views and manuals. They are availble on the 'net.

 

[josh8loop]

Great help here guys, really appreciate it. I believe my control valve is also likely the culprit for my decreased cooling efficiency. I opened my compressor up and it looks very nice and clean, everything moves freely, clutch functions well, etc. I ordered the discussed parts today to replace it, as noted above from PolarBear out of Florida. I also have to say what a great outfit they are. Very very helpful.

I do have a question for you guys who've done this already. I was able to remove the control valve from the compressor no problem, but I am not sure how to remove it from the suction valve reed and other gaskets, where it is secured.

Also, once you install all of these back together, is there a diagram where it should all be oriented? Specificlally, how do the discharge and vacuum reeds need to be aligned?

Thanks for the help.

Just emailed you some photos-hope it helps. By the way you can post them here if you are able to. I am having trouble posting anything. Good luck

 

[josh8loop]

Ok, update on my ac issue. I pulled the back off the compressor tonight, expecting a bunch of oil to dump. However, there was very little. What little oil there was had a gold metal flake in it...like the insides of the compressor were pretty jacked up. So, I'm guessing my compressor is toast. I assume it happened when my fan fuse blew a couple weeks ago, but not sure.

Haven't decided if I'm going to fix it right now or just endure the heat. At least I have a good idea what the issue is. Thanks for all the help.

Just like DanG mentioned, you are not a good candidate for a compressor rebuild. Just go w/ a new compresor and be done with it. Take extra time flushing every sigle line and component you can. New expansion valve, and dryer are a must. Also do your best to replace every O ring you can-even the ones underneath the fill ports. Good luck!

 

[cheapsk8]

Hey Josh,

Would you email me those photos too?
I think I am having this problem too.

Thanks

 

[josh8loop]

Great help here guys, really appreciate it. I believe my control valve is also likely the culprit for my decreased cooling efficiency. I opened my compressor up and it looks very nice and clean, everything moves freely, clutch functions well, etc. I ordered the discussed parts today to replace it, as noted above from PolarBear out of Florida. I also have to say what a great outfit they are. Very very helpful.

I do have a question for you guys who've done this already. I was able to remove the control valve from the compressor no problem, but I am not sure how to remove it from the suction valve reed and other gaskets, where it is secured.

Also, once you install all of these back together, is there a diagram where it should all be oriented? Specificlally, how do the discharge and vacuum reeds need to be aligned?
Thanks for the help.

Jared,

I am away from my aol account, so I cannot email you right now-But to answer your questions....

I think I remember using an impact wrench to remove the control valve nut from the valve backing plate. You may have to counter hold the thick steel backing plate with an adjustable wrench, just be carefull like you mentioned not to damage anything.

Remember on the shaft seal, there are two types that were used on that compressor, and I have no way of knowing which you have. Mine used the black rubber one, but yours may be different. You could always order both, and just return the one, or pull the one you have and look at it. You will also need a shaft seal installation tool aswell(rounded bullet looking device). Basically it protects the new seal from being damaged when passing over the threaded portion of the compressor shaft. It also helps you to gently spread the hard seal material so it goes on the shaft. For me this was a bit tedious since I took my time so I didn't damage the new seal.

To answer your other question, I didn't replace my condenser since it was operating properly, and since the oil was very clean with no debris when I opened the system. I remember using compressed air, and brake clean to purge my lines and the condenser out. Basically I would fill the lines with brake clean, and use the compressed air to chase it out. They will dry pretty well-the hot weather will help you out with this. I did replace my evaporator, but that's because I was replaceing the heater core/blend doors, and while I'm in there....

Hope this helps you out!