99 Jetta TDI Glowplug and all other relay locations.

Notthejet

Member
Joined
Sep 3, 2023
Location
Billings MT
TDI
1999 Jetta sedan
This is my first time owning a VW and first time writing a post. Be gentle... anyway my a/c isn't working and my glowplug indicator light is only on for maybe a second. Replaced all glowplugs and still doesn't seem to be cycling. The manual says that #12 is the fuel pump or glowplug location. Another place I found that #22 is the glowplug relay with a 50amp fuse above it. Anywho, I bought a new relay, (not cheap), put it in # 12 and when I turned the key, instant smoke show from the relay. How many different configurations are there and which do I have?
 

STDOUBT

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 30, 2007
Location
Portland, effing Oregon
TDI
dos jettas
Welcome to TDI Club!
Does the car run and drive?
What manual are you using, and do you have access to any kind of OBDII scanner or better yet VCDS?
There is very little point in replacing parts unless you first identify the faulty part. Waste of money otherwise.
If you intend to keep this car, spending $200 on VCDS will pay for itself.
What is the build date of your car (sticker on the inside driver's door jamb)?
 

AndyBees

Top Post Dawg
Joined
May 27, 2003
Location
Southeast Kentucky
TDI
Silver 2003 Jetta TDI, Silver 2000 Jetta TDI (sold), '84 Vanagon with '02 ALH engine
I agree with STDOUBT. You should invest in a quality OBD scanner. Vag Com Diagnostic Systems (VCDS) is the jewel most TDIer's go to.
Look on https://www.ross-tech.com/ for the version that applies to your model.

The GPs light doesn't remain on very long......... the warmer the engine coolant is the shorter the period the light will be on, which is only for few seconds anyway. However, the GPs continue to receive current after the light goes out.

STDOUBT has given you good advice and posed excellent questions..

Yes, welcome to the TDI Club..
 

jayb79

Top Post Dawg
Joined
May 20, 2000
Location
Exeter,NH
The search function works well on this site, I use advanced search titles only.
 

Notthejet

Member
Joined
Sep 3, 2023
Location
Billings MT
TDI
1999 Jetta sedan
This is my first time owning a VW and first time writing a post. Be gentle... anyway my a/c isn't working and my glowplug indicator light is only on for maybe a second. Replaced all glowplugs and still doesn't seem to be cycling. The manual says that #12 is the fuel pump or glowplug location. Another place I found that #22 is the glowplug relay with a 50amp fuse above it. Anywho, I bought a new relay, (not cheap), put it in # 12 and when I turned the key, instant smoke show from the relay. How many different configurations are there and which do I have?
Welcome to TDI Club!
Does the car run and drive?
What manual are you using, and do you have access to any kind of OBDII scanner or better yet VCDS?
There is very little point in replacing parts unless you first identify the faulty part. Waste of money otherwise.
If you intend to keep this car, spending $200 on VCDS will pay for itself.
What is the build date of your car (sticker on the inside driver's door jamb)?
I have a Innova code reader. I will be getting one of these vcds units though. The car came with a Haynes 96018.
1999 thru 2002 jetta golf GTI and Cabrio. Gas and diesel. I bought a Chilton before I realized the Haynes was in the car
Seems to be identical inside.
My manufacturer date is 06/98. I figured out the location of the GP relay #16 and 50 amp fuse #22. Not sure what #12 is but I do know it does not like a GP relay in it. Lol. I put a test light on the connector at the glowplug and there is no voltage to it. On the a/c issue, I do have power to the temperature switch on the radiator and fans work on hi and low with a jumper. Could it be another pressure switch somewhere?
 

AndyBees

Top Post Dawg
Joined
May 27, 2003
Location
Southeast Kentucky
TDI
Silver 2003 Jetta TDI, Silver 2000 Jetta TDI (sold), '84 Vanagon with '02 ALH engine
On the a/c issue, I do have power to the temperature switch on the radiator and fans work on hi and low with a jumper. Could it be another pressure switch somewhere?
The Bentley Manual is far better than any Chilton or Haynes Manual......... Haynes spends too much time keeping you safe and not enough on how-tos which results in frustration, in my opinion.

The AC system will not function if the Refrigerant is low. The High Pressure Sensor/Switch located on the High Pressure pipe is what monitors the residual pressure........ and if it is too high during operation. Also, there is an Ambient Temp Sensor that's located below the corner on the left side of the windshield behind the cowl. The windshield wiper blades will need to be removed to access it. Generally the problem there is mice chew the wires.

Below the battery case is the Fan Control Module (FCM). The connectors are below and the bolts to remove are above under the battery case. The FCM operates the Fans out front and current to the AC Compressor Clutch. But, if there is no Refrigerant the FCM does not provide current to the Fans or AC Compressor. A good way to test the Fans and Current to the AC Compressor Clutch is, with engine not running, ignition On, Fan in dash On speed 1 or higher, and the AC button pressed in which should light-up. Then, check out front to see if the Fans are running. If not, check voltage on the positive wire going to the AC Compressor Clutch (5 volts or more is fine). Next, on top of the Battery there are three Green Fuses (30 Amp). The one to your left facing the battery is for the Fans.. current to the FCM. That fuse is known to overheat and melt the plastic... losing contact. If all this checks out okay, then, likely the System is low on Refrigerant, the FCM is bad or the Ambient Air Temp Sensor is bad or has broken wires.

Everything I stated above applies to the 2000 model and likely to your 1999 model. The early 99 models used a different FCM than the 2000 model but operational purposes are basically the same.

The Coolant Temp Sensor/Switch located in the Radiator operates independently from the AC System... So, even it if it a brand new made in Germany switch, it will not help or hinder the AC function.... totally independent.

There are some good Threads on AC operational trouble shooting. Look under the How-Tos. Dan has posted a lot of stuff down thru the years.

Others will chime in in due time.
 

P2B

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Jan 11, 2006
Location
Toronto & Muskoka, Canada
TDI
2002 Jetta, 2003 Jetta, 2003 Jetta Wagon
Based on a 6/98 build date and a manual covering the Cabrio found in the car I wonder if the OP has an MK3 Jetta?

Is the valve cover black painted steel or cast aluminium?
 

Notthejet

Member
Joined
Sep 3, 2023
Location
Billings MT
TDI
1999 Jetta sedan
The Bentley Manual is far better than any Chilton or Haynes Manual......... Haynes spends too much time keeping you safe and not enough on how-tos which results in frustration, in my opinion.

The AC system will not function if the Refrigerant is low. The High Pressure Sensor/Switch located on the High Pressure pipe is what monitors the residual pressure........ and if it is too high during operation. Also, there is an Ambient Temp Sensor that's located below the corner on the left side of the windshield behind the cowl. The windshield wiper blades will need to be removed to access it. Generally the problem there is mice chew the wires.

Below the battery case is the Fan Control Module (FCM). The connectors are below and the bolts to remove are above under the battery case. The FCM operates the Fans out front and current to the AC Compressor Clutch. But, if there is no Refrigerant the FCM does not provide current to the Fans or AC Compressor. A good way to test the Fans and Current to the AC Compressor Clutch is, with engine not running, ignition On, Fan in dash On speed 1 or higher, and the AC button pressed in which should light-up. Then, check out front to see if the Fans are running. If not, check voltage on the positive wire going to the AC Compressor Clutch (5 volts or more is fine). Next, on top of the Battery there are three Green Fuses (30 Amp). The one to your left facing the battery is for the Fans.. current to the FCM. That fuse is known to overheat and melt the plastic... losing contact. If all this checks out okay, then, likely the System is low on Refrigerant, the FCM is bad or the Ambient Air Temp Sensor is bad or has broken wires.

Everything I stated above applies to the 2000 model and likely to your 1999 model. The early 99 models used a different FCM than the 2000 model but operational purposes are basically the same.

The Coolant Temp Sensor/Switch located in the Radiator operates independently from the AC System... So, even it if it a brand new made in Germany switch, it will not help or hinder the AC function.... totally independent.

There are some good Threads on AC operational trouble shooting. Look under the How-Tos. Dan has posted a lot of stuff down thru the years.

Others will chime in in due time.
Thank you so much. This car just threw a p0605 code and when I pulled the cowl there have been some squatters living in there for some time. This car was last plated in 2015 so there has been a lot of time for chewed wires and rotted vacuum hoses. I am learning a lot about these cars thanks to all of you. Totally appreciated. I will definitely be looking for the wires on the ambient Temp Sensor.
 
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