'99 Audi A4Q/2.0TDI Conversion

TDIsyncro

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vwmikel said:
That tune was kind of designed for the original turbo....we'll have to massage the N75 values to smooth that out. :D
hahaha LOL I nearly cr&*^d my pants when it hit the first time. :p I was going down my 1km long gravel lane gracefully accelerating around a corner in second and hit 2800 RPM and in a blink I was running 4200 RPM doing a full power draft around a curve. :D :D

This would totally eat-up and spit out an Audi A4 V6!!

Yes the turbo upgrade wasn't planned for, my fault. hahaha I had also asked for some specific economy/performance characteristics that were amplified by the turbo swap. :)
 
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nytoy

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Where does one find an importer for 1/2 cuts, I have an A4 Avant that is dying for a nice 150PD swap! Also do the euro cars have OBDII like in the states?
 

Scott_DeWitt

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Texas USA
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2000 Audi A4 1.9TDI quattro
nytoy said:
Where does one find an importer for 1/2 cuts, I have an A4 Avant that is dying for a nice 150PD swap! Also do the euro cars have OBDII like in the states?
Considering the Audi A4 never came in 150pd format, you'd need alot more than a 1/2 cut. I can source half cuts, but they are about as much as bringing a whole car over, and US Customs are looking for them, so if your shipment gets inspected, say by by to your engine.

I've got a 130pd from a B6 A4 on the way it's advertised right now.

Also getting half cuts from Europe aren't like buying them from Japan, as the car values don't plummet after 10 years like they do in Japan. Plus with the euro still pretty high it ain't cheap.

Some cars used the OBDII protocol, but I'm not sure which ones.
 

TDIsyncro

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It has been too long since I have updated the project thread.
After the post from my last test drive, a page back, my turbo siezed the next day. This happened after an attempt to get a good WOT 3rd gear data log for tunning. What else has happend? I came to the realization that what I thought was limp mode was actually an injector balance issue. The engine sputters and misses something terrible if driven lightly.

see thread:
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=228098

SO to date, the car is still not running properly. I have replaced the injector harness, double checked the timing, evacuated the fuel system and re-filled with fresh diesel, checked the fuel supply for bubbles, verified pressure of fuel supply to tandem pump, tried different fuel supply pressures, re-adjusted the replacement turbo, and just two days ago, flashed the ECU with an updated injector map. The car became a lot more driveable after the update, but the engine still sputters because of a severe injector balance issue.

At this point, pretty much all that is left to do for solutions is to do a compression check, and to replace the injectors with PD150 units, or perhaps there will be some sort of software solution. I plan on driving the car this week, as its good on the highway if I pull onto the shoulder, turn off, restart and quickly go up through the gears to around 25-2600 RPM and stay with load on. Urban driving is very difficult, as it seems to turn off injectors frequently in that situation.
 
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TDIsyncro

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I have not checked the adjustment yet, I am waiting on some info so I know how to check and set properly if they need to be set. When I replaced the injector harness I did note that everything was set on the factory marks still and the cam lobes and roller looked in new condition, and with 40k on them, they should be I guess. I am going to have to modify my intake manifold so it does not have to be removed everytime I pull the valve cover.






Do you have any instructions on how to make these adjustments?


.
 
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DPM

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Mar 16, 2001
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2019 Rav4 AWD Hybrid, Citroen C4 BlueHDI
No, they're kicking around the site somewhere tho. It's a certain number of degrees of preload on the adjuster, if memory serves.
 

jsrmonster

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Apr 22, 2002
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Red Lion, PA
TDI
15 Golf SW DSG, RC3 piped, 99.5 Jetta Rocket PD150 6spd 4motion, 2000 ASV110 RC6 "Silverbullet" 5spd Race Car, 2003.5 Cummins QCLB 4x4 "Blue Monster" Jeep CRD juiced, MB Sprinter van juiced up
It's easy to adjust the lash on PD elements, see bentley. I remove glow plugs, valve cover and get dial indicator. Rotate motor until #1 PD-element rocker is fully depressed (dial indicator not necessary imho, you can see where it stops compressing). Hold the center bolt (torx) and loosen 18mm nut. Turn in center bolt clockwise until it stops/snug and remember how many degrees it has rotated. It helps to first position socket wrench/w-torx bit at 180deg vertical reference to engine/bay and you should get oem 222deg till it stops. Now use a new vertical reference (on socket wrench) and back out torx 180deg (ccw) from stop, and tighten lock nut. Repeat for each injector. I suggest you make sure to measure the old setting for reference. If they were all the same, it shouldn't run any different w/new adjustments, but if one was out it would explain some imbalance in that cylinder. I suggest the engine be cold, but I've done hot ones too. btw, the newer ceramic gp's are very delicate, so don't drop or bang around.
Jeff
 
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TDIsyncro

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thanks Jeff.

I did a compression test and leak down test today. The engine is very tight. :D 400psi in 5 strokes, 600psi in 8 strokes. Several minutes to leak down from 600psi to 400psi. All cyclinders were within 5 psi or so (hard to tell exactly with gauge resolution). So there is nothing mechanically wrong with valve train or piston rings.

Back to injector adjustment and ECU control.
 

TDIsyncro

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I have recieved a number of PM's related to the lobectomy that I did.

RIght now, when the car runs between idle and about 1400-1500 RPM, there is a fair bit of vibration - ie it jingles the keys in the ignition. I am really not sure at this point how much of that vibration is being caused by the injector issue. The other factors effecting this are the stiffer V6 motor mounts I am using and the 13.7lb flywheel. Both of these add to the vibration of the system. I would say the BS module mod did add a significant portion of the vibration and most PAssat B5.5 drivers would not be happy with this set-up. But for those more performance orientated, it is fine. Above the 1500 RPM level the vibrations fades as RPM increases.
 

Antsrcool

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MA Springfield
TDI
2010 Cup Edition
This is just a thought but maybe you can adapt an a couple of ACURA motor mounts. Ive replaced these hydraulic vaccum controlled motor mounts that supposedly make the motor smooth like butter......perhaps if you can somehow manage to get vaccum to these things at idle you can eliminate alot of the vibes? Just me thinking thats all
 

TDIsyncro

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Antsrcool said:
This is just a thought but maybe you can adapt an a couple of ACURA motor mounts. Ive replaced these hydraulic vaccum controlled motor mounts that supposedly make the motor smooth like butter......perhaps if you can somehow manage to get vaccum to these things at idle you can eliminate alot of the vibes? Just me thinking thats all
Thats an interesting idea. What year and engine option for the Acura?

Also, I just found out there has been breaking news on the B5.5 forum in the last two days. Sounds like VAG has come out with an upgrade for the BS module - replacing the frail chain drive with a proper gear drive. I will probably pick this kit up next summer, if its available, and have a much smoother ride.:D
 

TDIsyncro

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I was looking at the PDF of them in that link. Looks like they have a rotating collar of some sort to control the mount stiffness. Looks like an interesting option. I may try to find one at wrecker to see how it looks for mounting and strength. thanks antrcool. ...you know I use to have a collie that stared at ants for hours....:confused: LOL
 
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Antsrcool

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I have the collies cousin a sheltie....its because my name is Anthony. Anyways they look lieka viable option as they are round so it shoudlnt be too much maching needed
 

TDIsyncro

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VWMikel has been very kind in sending me his spare PD150 injectors and a spare ECU. I received the injectors yesterday. A test ECU will be showing up, hopefully on Thursday. I am going to first try the spare ECU. If that does not resolve the issue, I am then going to replace the injectors. Hopefully by Saturday evening there will be a big smile on my face.
 
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TDIsyncro

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leicaman said:
Lets hope not followed by any speeding ticket!
LOL I have no comments on how I have been currently driving, other than saying its difficult to drive a car that runs half decent only when floored and above 120kph. :D
 

TDIsyncro

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Installed the PD150 injectors today and went for a test drive. VCDS reading ver good and engine now runs great. :D :D :D

EMP levels are 1/2 of what they were with the BHW injectors, yet power is much better from 1900-3000 rpm.

I will do a write up on the injector install later tonight.
 

Rexking414

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That's awesome that it runs good now, It'd be interesting to know what's physically different about the ARL and the BHW injectors that would cause this.
 

vwmikel

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Rexking414 said:
That's awesome that it runs good now, It'd be interesting to know what's physically different about the ARL and the BHW injectors that would cause this.
The innjector nozzles are slightly smaller but that doesn't seem to have really been the issue so much as there was a problem with the injectors themselves.
 

TDIsyncro

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fishmando said:
I want to see some videos of this thing in action!

I want to do a project like this sooo bad! Great work!
thanks fishmando.

A general project update (and I appolgize on falling behind on some pics and write-ups..hope to find some time for that shortly):

I am getting closer to getting the engine tuned properly now. :cool:

Boost has been spiking around 32psi with N75 sitting at 94%. This was most likely due to the vanes not opening enough.

At VWMikels suggestion, I removed the turbo and played with the clocking of the housing a bit more to try and get control of the WOT boost levels.
I first compared vane location and range to my other GT2056 turbos. It was identical, so for some reason, this particular VNT20 model does not open the vanes vary much before the arm hits the internal stop. I decided to pull the housing dowel pin and see how much further I could rotate the bearing cartriage on the exhaust housing. I got about another 2mm (measured at the turbine flange) of movement, which does not sound like much, but seemed to add around 5-10deg on the vane angle. I then re-adjusted the closed vane stop screw until the lever did not reach it anymore. After determining that location, I turned it back in a touch for some contact. With this adjustment and the custom clocking, the little vane arms are able to travel from guide wheel to guide wheel (guide wheels on internal adjuster ring). Vanes will not close as much as I would like, but they are not too bad.
I then reinstalled the turbo and tested with data logging. Boost is now maintained at 26psi WOT and 75% duty cycle on N75.
So the tiny re-clocking movement corrected the problem and I am now ready to get a tune update to address spooling issues and full power limits. :D

Some youtube vids will follow..probably will show drive by under full boost, WOT Acceleration from rolling start, and dash view acceleration 2nd thru 4th gear. Any other specific request for vids? 1/4mile time etc may have to wait till next spring.

Tonight I will be trying to find a 2.4amp current draw that keeps killing my battery. Looks like I will need to do some more wire chop chop again..arg. I think I have installed and removed everything on my converstion 3-4 times now.
 
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TDIsyncro

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I think I found the current leak..but I popped my multimeter so I need to get another one to finish testing.

Received a new program with a MAF delete from VWMikel late Saturday night. I got it installed today and took it for a test drive. This is my full power no holds bar program..and it leaves a bat cloud in my wake.:D
Acceleration is very impressive in all gears. Boost spool starts at 2000 RPM and hitting 19 psi by 2400RPM and reaching 26.8PSI at around 3000RPM all the way to limiter. Did a boost log tonight on the way home, emailed to Mike, and half our later and I had another update file in my email. :D

We are also discussing a neat ECU idea that I think we can make work with a little ingenuity and I will talk about that more over the coming months when we get something concrete built.

I have to tell you VWMikel has been an absolute pleasure to deal with and despite his pressures with schooling and his own project issues, has put in a lot of time trying to help me trouble shoot things and swapping around different programs, and shipping out injectors & ecu's on just a proverbial handshake, etc. I have a deep appreciation for his commitment to TDIclub members and respect for his talents. :)
 

TDIsyncro

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Just anouther update. Ran anouther updated tune this morning. Going by my boost gauge only, I can now peg 28psi from 2100rpm to limiter. Initial smoke cloud is more faint but still visible and for this tune that is perfect. ;)
There is a bit more fueling we can go but I have to finish up my intercooler install first.
 

Rexking414

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Wisconsin
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02 jetta
How's that vibration been with the engine runnign good? It should be fine, the only difference is the lighter fly wheel, otherwise basically it's a BGW now.
 
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