88 4runner - ALH

[Danielg42]

It's official... After a few months of planning and plotting, I've started my conversion.
Currently, the plan is to make my own adapter plate and drill the flywheel. The engine mounts will be done similar to jimbote here: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=293577

So here's where we really begin....

Introducing the 1988 4runner 4x4 V6 3.0...

Featuring no front bumper and not quite aligned fenders/hood since the previous owner had rear ended someone.

As a whole it's in ok condition, but the V6 has 90psi on cylinder 4 and is netting me 13 mpg. This will not do!

All right, so we need an engine, well.... I was gonna just buy one like a normal person, but unfortunately, before I quite had the 4runner on the road (from the PO's accident), I managed to crash/roll otherwise total the body of my daily driver.

Here she is:

After quite a lot of parting out, this is what I'm officially starting with.

Running Engine: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B_LDbqyVv58

Not so running truck:

Here's the R150F bellhousing... I'll be getting the starter/flywheel/clutch lined up off the truck, then just bolt the bellhousing back onto the transmission.

And here's a picture of the flywheel I'm going to have to figure out how to drill.... I'm thinking to weld all the holes up and start from scratch.

 

[Seatman]

Brings a new meaning to being your own worst enemy lol, good luck with it though

 

[imtryin]

haha YES!!!!!! more yota tdis. Man this is great. so with the flywheel, recently i found out that the 22re has a few years where the flywheel is the same size as the v-6. the 22re only has 6 bolt holes to contend with instead of 8. the flywheel ring gear is the same and the clutch splines are the same. Since a brand new flywheel from napa is only like 70 bucks i think it would be way better to get the bigger 22re flywheel and have it drilled. then use a 22re clutch. I went down this road a while back with the flywheel issue and everyone i talked to, and i mean everyone; Said not to try and weld the cast iron flywheel. Also if you dont like the idea of using the 22re flywheel, McLeod racing will cut you a brand new billet steel flywheel with the vw crank pattern for about 350$.
-Sam

 

[Danielg42]

Nice! I'm glad to hear about the 22re flywheel... Definitely wasn't looking forward to welding up the V6 one. Probably will need a new clutch kit to go with that though, right?

I'm a bit annoyed at the ambiguity of the clutches available. Shouldn't a 1200lb pressure plate be able to hold the torque of the TDI? I know quite a few people say to go to the 1600lb clutch though, so I'm thinking I'll try to line one of those up, with a 22re flywheel.
I'll still need to make a flywheel spacer to properly space out the flywheel right?

ETA: Are you sure you don't mean the 22RTE flywheel? A bit more googling seems to imply that the 22RE one takes a smaller clutch?
EATA: Yep... 22RTE flywheel and clutch is gonna work with the R150f transmission. Thanks for the lead!

 

[jimbote]

ha ...just found this out the hard way myself!! ...I have two acme kits at home and both take the smaller clutch!! now my truck is on the lift waiting for the right flywheel to be machined for the new 1600lb clutch! dang...hard lessons abound!!

 

[Danielg42]

22re turbo flywheel on order from napa.. 70 bucks... I'll pick it up tomorrow morning.
If it's the same as my V6 flywheel, I'll put an order in for that 1600 lb clutch kit to match.

I have the VW side of my adapter nicely laid out in solidworks, but my bell housing side isn't looking so hot. I measured everything out as close as possible, but I'm still off a couple mm here and there depending on which spots I measure from.
Anyone have any nice CAD sketches of the R150 transmission or the 3vze/5vze engine?

I had this to work off, for the VW, and now I'm spoiled... <--turns out this ain't so correct xD

 

[imtryin]

hey so i have realized an error in my ways. after much more reading and calling around to some aftermarket parts places, the 22ret and v6 flywheel are different sizes. it wasn't the flywheel size that was the same, it was the clutch disc size. i got confused i suppose. i wonder if we can find somewhere to make us a few for a discounted price if we do a group buy. I called marlin crawler today and left a message to see if they might be willing to put the vw bolt pattern in one of there flywheels that they make. Yeah i had a very hard time coming up with the the bellhousing bolt pattern for the v6. i think the thing to do is find someone with a laser scanner to scan the face of it and give you the dimensions. The hardest part is finding center on the v6 bellhousing because none of the holes seem to be on the same radius plane. I used the method of trial and error and laid it all out by hand. also another trick i did was use a piece of 3/8 inch plexiglass and a bottom baring bit for a palm router. i clamped the plexiglass to the face of the bellhousing and ran the router bit inside each hole. then you can use transfer punches to transfer the middle point of each hole to a piece of aluminum or steel. then you can drill your holes. But honestly it took me probably 60 hours of figuring and fussing before i found a layout i was happy with.
-Sam

 

[Danielg42]

Couldn't find it... so I made it... Just realized I didn't center it on the crank, necessarily.
Still, after I put it all in Solidworks, I can figure out where the crank center is from the pilot holes in the block, and shift it around from there.

 

[Danielg42]

Here's the flywheel pattern I sent to my friend with a mill. I'd give credit to the person I found it from, but I have no clue who they are... If you know... let me know...

He's going to get it done by Saturday I hope. The price is free, so I can wait.
I'm still working on my adapter plate, but I have it all drawn up in solidworks and just finished generating the toolpath, so hopefully I can cut a demo plate out of thin plywood sometime before Saturday and see how much I missed when transferring real life into the computer.

 

[LukeWilson]

You might want to double check that flywheel pattern. I remember the person who posted it on the yotatech forums added a note later about saying the angles were flipped on the offset hole. It would suck to drill a new flywheel wrong because i don't think you could drill it a third time.

Looking forward to seeing your V6 adapter, i think there would be lots of demand for them because of all the blown up 3.0's.

Luke

 

[Danielg42]

hoo snap... great catch there!
That really would have been annoying. I notified my buddy and it's going to be done right...
Image going down for now, but I'll replace it with an updated version.
There's my version... not as elegant, but I'm getting better and better with Solidworks.

 

[Danielg42]

Oh man... what a night... I have some pretty productive results despite the comedy of errors. I drew up my plate in solidworks, ran the tool paths in master cam... had some issues cause I drew it in metric and converted to inches and then had to convert it back to metric for the mill.
Then I toolpathed it, but my brother's the 'expert' so I asked him to double check my work... he said it was fine, fixed a couple finishing cuts... but missed the fact that I put the cutter comp on the wrong side, so I didn't have enough clearance for the holes in my dummy adapter plate...

Anyway, I got to find out which Toyota bolt holes were slightly off, and I'm correcting the diagram.
Gonna have to find a way to counter sink my VW bolts too.

Pictures are worth a thousand words right?

 

[RBX]

I know this is a few months old, hows the progress?

Would you mind sharing the adapter drawing? I too am going to use the R150 trans on back of a TDI.

Thanks,
RB

 

[Danielg42]

Well after a few ages of slacking off and a summer of fun, I've started working on the project again.
VW, meet Toyota!

Sporting a 1600lb 22RTEClutch kit from TrailGear, with the flywheel drilled to fit... as well as an oilite pilot bushing purchased from McMasterCar. I had to cheat a bit and order 1 large one with the proper outer diameter and a small one with the inner diameter.

Turbo clearance is lacking...

I kinda adjusted the dimensions of the block to get this bolt in.

 

[Kraiger]

Very nice. Ill be watching this as im about to start a tdi to ax15 with a r150 bell. All in a samurai.

 

[Danielg42]

Just in from my garage... aluminium isn't really the best thing to make adapter plates out of, if you plan on tapping the plate for bolt holes. Even with helicoils installed my aluminium adapter plate wasn't up to par, so I've remade it out of steel.

Pulled the transmission out of the truck, to work out some clearance issues, which turned out to be the length of my pilot shaft bushing. Anyway, everything is nice and bolted up now.

The starter had to be clocked slightly, due to the 22ret flywheel having a slightly smaller ring gear diameter than the VR6 flywheel. I'll take a couple more pictures of how I managed to get it working tonight. Another clearance issue to work out is gonna be the downpipe. The flange I cut won't quite clear the starter without being ground down a bit first.

 

[Danielg42]

Clockable starter

Problems with the aluminium.... I probably could have given the bolt more meat to grab onto, but why take the risk again.

Here's a laggy phone video of the motor cranking/transmission moving: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FBPwVM4olyo

 

[Danielg42]

Here's some night pictures... from my mobile communication device.
They're mostly for my own record, but I figured I might as well share, even if they're not beautiful.

Working on the front motor mount.

Gotta clear the steering box thingy...

This side is open

C-clamps for now... welding it up tomorrowish? maybe...

Engine in the bay... not looking forward to figuring out those vacuum lines.

drivers side

Oilpan clears with a 2 inch body lift....

 

[Danielg42]

Made quite a bit of progress in the last month... the only thing really missing is ELECTRICAL!
oh, and power steering, fuel lines, vacuum lines, and AC... dear me...

If anyone has any tips on which pins from the engine harness need the switched 12 volts/ground, I'd greatly appreciate them.

I have a 2001 ECU and engine wiring harness all plugged in, but can't figure all the wires that need power despite the massive amounts of documentation on the forum. :/

 

[Lone Ranger]

I might be able to help you here. After transplanting an ALH into a Ranger, having a valve drop. And now buidling another one in a 2008 Ranger I have intimate knowledge of the wiring, I think! HA ha....

pin 1 and 2[red/vio](30amp)hot in start/run.
pin 37 [blk/vio](10a) hot in run/start
pin 88 [blk/grn](5a) hot in run

 

[Danielg42]

wow... so just 4 wires then!
Thanks for the info! I'm going to get on this again. Hopefully I'll get it at least idling by next week.

 

[Danielg42]

hmm... checking the wiring diagrams, it seems that pin 1 is supposed to be grounded and pin 2 is no where to be found....

Would you mind clarifying? Should I find the wire going from pin 2 in the harness and connect it directly to switched 12 volts?

 

[Lone Ranger]

Well I did assume this was a 99.5-2003 Jetta? or ALH
Is this not what you have? If its the 2004 and up Jetta then yes
pins 1 and 2 are grounds and I can give you the wires that are hot for that too if needed

 

[Danielg42]

yes it's an alh from a 2001 jetta... I am currently looking for the hot wires and the ground wires.

Basically, the wires that need to be connected to the battery in order to for the ECU to run.

 

[Lone Ranger]

Yeah ok, then my original private message to you is correct, involving pins 1, 2, 37, 88.

 

[Lone Ranger]

Grounds are pins 4 and 5 btw

 

[Danielg42]

Thanks for the starting point Lone Ranger!
I have voltage going to 1, 2, 37, and 88... 4 and 5 are grounded, but my engine refuses to start.
There is fuel at the injectors. I hear the solenoid on the IP click when I power up the ecu. I guess that's good?

 

[ToyotaTDI]

Hey Dan,

Are you using Relay 109 or a Toyota Relay in lieu of?

I believe the ECU needs a signal coming from the coil side of the relay, not sure what it is on the ALH but my AHU its T68/42. I believe it wont run without communication with the relay.

Got your OBD hooked up yet?

 

[Danielg42]

Right now I'm just hooking up the power manually with a jumper wire.. OBD2 is a ways away.

Relay 109 just allows 12 volts to flow through to the ECU. I ran my dad's 1Z via a jumper wire for a while when his relay 109 failed.

I'm pretty sure my problem lies with which pins going on the ECU should be receiving power.

Just realized it could be a timing issue... I'll try and advance the IP tomorrow.

 

[jimbote]

there is one small wire on the ALH that has to be connected to the coil side of R109 or the engine will NOT start ...I don't know how the 1Z's operate but the ALH has to see R109 or similar....it's not just a matter of "jumping" a wire.... do you have a diagram?