86 Jetta TD DIED

[ottomatic]

I was driving along about 60mph and the timing belt broke. Car 86 TD Jetta with unknown miles. I need a how to on replacing belt. What to align ,etc. + where to buy??
Plus could the engine be toasted????
I just towed the car home. ...........................thanks

 

[AndyBees]

First, you will need to remove the head. Even at an idle, there will be damage to one or more Exhaust valves. So, besides a TB kit, count on rebuilding the head. Next, inspect the condition of the pistons that kissed valves. Hopefully, there will only be a "valve" imprint with virturally no damage...... could be worse.

Surely someone has a link where you can pick-up the TB, tensioner, etc.

 

[ottomatic]

Thanks for reply. So much for a simple fix. Well I guess I'll look for a Factory service manual or a Chiltons.
BTW I have had Porsches, MB's and a host of of other vechicles. The Jetta is the BEST and most fun car I ever owned.

 

[turbocharged798]

I am not too familiar with IDI engines but isn't that a solid lifter head? If so, a lot of damage can be done to the lower end if there is no hydraulic lifter to help take up the space.

 

[AndyBees]

I'm thinking the '86 come with hydraulic lifters. They were introduced in '85.

My first experience with a TB break in a 1.6 diesel with solid lifts did not damage anything in the lower end......rods or crank. Two pistons recieved stamps from exhaust valves. However, in this circumstance, 60 mph that engine was buzzing pretty fast. That's why I said it could be worse!

Also, with unknown miles, in my opinion, if the car is in pretty condition otherwise, I'd consider a complete rebuild of the engine!

 

[PDJetta]

I am not too familiar with IDI engines but isn't that a solid lifter head? If so, a lot of damage can be done to the lower end if there is no hydraulic lifter to help take up the space.

1986 was the first year of hydraulic lifters. Some say it was a split year, but I never saw an '86 Jetta diesel/turbodiesel with mechanical lifters.

There is a fix for the odometer. The drive gear in the speedometer housing splits and slips on its shaft and prevents the odometer from working. It does require disassembilng the speedometer, but it is pretty easy. There is a write up on the internet about this. VERY common on the A2 VWs.

--Nate

 

[ottomatic]

Who would br a good source for all the parts I will need . Preferably a supporting or a vendor of or on this site with fair pricing and fast shipping??
Sorry for the lack of posts but I never needed to as car has been trouble free.

 

[bhtooefr]

86 was a split year, and I owned a car that originally had a solid lifter engine, despite being a MY86. However, it was a Golf. (And, I put a solid lifter engine out of an 85 Jetta in.)

So, this car has become a project. You'll want to drive your other vehicles to work for now.

You'll need a manual from Bentley Publishers, the 1985-1992 Golf and Jetta manual. That's the best one you can get for this car.

The minimum damage is to the valves, and if it's a solid lifter engine, the lifters and cam will be damaged as well. I would contact Franko6, he does great work with these heads. If anyone can salvage the head, it'll be him.

You may also need pistons and possibly rods. You'll need to inspect the pistons and their protrusion to see what's needed there.

As for the timing belt components, I don't have a parts list handy, but in my experience, Autohaus Arizona is a great place to get parts for these cars. Look at an A3/B4 timing belt kit for what KINDS of components you need - the setup is very similar - and then look for the versions of those parts for your engine. I can look up the part numbers this evening, I don't have access to ETKA right now.

 

[ottomatic]

The head has 2 " humps" or oil drain galleys facing forward so I am assuming it has hydralic lifters. Awhile back i remember seeing a pic of the difference between the engines.
Thanks for the info and link.

 

[bhtooefr]

The mandatory timing belt parts:

068 109 119 E - timing belt
068 109 243 F - belt tensioner
026 103 085 E - cam seal
026 198 025 C - set of gaskets for cylinder head cover

Recommended parts:

N 902 127 02 (for non-AC cars) or N 014 707 4 (for AC cars) - bolt with hex. socket hd. (for crank pulley)
037 121 010 C - water pump (if you want to cheap out, 026 121 005 JX is the wear part, but if the previous owner did something wrong, and you break a bolt trying to remove it, you have to remove the entire housing anyway.)
Replacement V-belts - search for a post by oilhammer on that

 

[PDJetta]

When I had my '85 Jetta TD I always replaced the water pump front half only when I replaced the timing belt. It is WAY easier to replace just the half (has the pump impeller, bearings and seals) if the car has air conditioning, as opposed to replacing the whole pump. They come both ways. Just use an OEM one. The back half is just a casing and does not need replacement. If the timing belt is off there are seven 10 mm bolts that hold the pump half on. And if you bust one off, you can turn the nub out with vice grips. Not too bad at all.

Make sure you hve the dial indicator, holder, tensioner spanner and cam lock bar for this engine if you replace the head/timing belt

--Nate

 

[oilhammer]

'86 is a split year for lifters. If it is the early (solid) lifter engine, it is very possible the rods and pistons are trashed.

 

[ottomatic]

I really appreciate all the tips. I gave $900 for car 2 years ago. I got my $ out of it.
The engine has either been replaced or rebuilt before I got it. So it's hard to say wether its hyd, or soild. AC does not work, no passenger seat. I will probably trailer to to TN. and let my son take care of it . He is a mechanic & welder. Also we have been talking about pulling the motor and building a "Moon Buggy" with it any way. Something like this http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2987545460065744046WvuPxh
Both my sons build & have Rock Crawlers.
Thanks again

BTW I will part out rest of the car here in future, It is rust free with no rot. But interior is trashed

 

[oilhammer]

You can tell in 10 seconds by looking at the block if it is solid or hydro. But that really at this point makes no difference, the head has to come off anyways to see what damage has been done.

 

[PDJetta]

I really appreciate all the tips. I gave $900 for car 2 years ago. I got my $ out of it.
The engine has either been replaced or rebuilt before I got it. So it's hard to say wether its hyd, or soild. AC does not work, no passenger seat. I will probably trailer to to TN. and let my son take care of it . He is a mechanic & welder. Also we have been talking about pulling the motor and building a "Moon Buggy" with it any way. Something like this http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2987545460065744046WvuPxh
Both my sons build & have Rock Crawlers.
Thanks again

BTW I will part out rest of the car here in future, It is rust free with no rot. But interior is trashed

"I will probably trailer to to TN. and let my son take care of it . He is a mechanic & welder. "

Make one of these out of it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTfiAmuOp5c

--Nate

 

[ottomatic]

"I will probably trailer to to TN. and let my son take care of it . He is a mechanic & welder. "

Make one of these out of it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTfiAmuOp5c

--Nate

We were talking about finding another and welding the front halves together, So if one motor went you could still drive it .
http://www.streetfire.net/video/romanians-weld-2-cars-together_691254.htm
The jetta would be perfect because its a 4 door ;
Anyone have an 86 that's has been rear ended