'84 Toyota Truck 1Z TDI Swap

[cumminsfromthecold]

The truck is for sale. Time for the next project : ) Please PM if interested.

 

[cumminsfromthecold]

The truck is no longer for sale. It is too rad and runs too strong. It is too perfect for deep off-grid construction work and general remote area exploration. It starts whenever I need it to and runs like a champ. I thought I skipped some things that would bolster its longevity, and I probably did, but it's overll reliable and capable, and that's all I was going for. Thank you all again for your help. We're here, on the Trinity River, happy to help. I will soon be having someone do a Hi-Steer kit and shock hoops, as I have milked the stock set-up and drop-drag link long enough and am sensing the imprecise turning that the truck features when I am in high speed corners on the highway. Off-road, though, the bump steer phenomenon is very mild and quite tolerable. I do have one rear Rancho 9000 shock that is leaking and has a 9-way adjustable dial that no longer turns.

 

[jmodge]

Glad to hear you are keeping and using it Ronnie, you put a lot of work into it. Hope you have fun with it for years to come. Best of health to you and the Mrs.

 

[cumminsfromthecold]

In the last year +, the truck's been running without issue except for the hi-Torque clockable starter going out. Got a neat little story about it. Like to hear it? Here it goes.

This was between Thanksgiving and Winter Solstice. The starter, for a couple of months, had been firing on the 2nd or 3rd twist of the key, and finally the contact at the point of the battery cable connection wore out before the three others. I called Hi-Torque, from whom I purchased it in 2011. A real human named Rob immediately answered the phone there in Whittier, and I asked him if I could speak to someone about having the starter rebuilt. He said he could answer any questions I had. I explained that I had an 11 year old starter from them that had worked swimmingly until right then. Could they and would they rebuild it? He said probably, but first, I needed to pull it and see what was up. He walked me through it and said to call him back when I had it out and apart. About an hour later, I called him back. Rob again. Send me pics, he said, giving me his personal cell number. I did. He got the pics as we talked on the phone. Yep, that looks standard, he said. Ship it to us, we'll rebuild it for $100 and ship it back. Wow, ok, I will. I shipped it (insured for $400) for under $20. A week and a half later, I called them. Different guy but right there, just as responsive. Starter had just come back rebuilt. Ok, $85 and about $15 to ship it and it'll go out tomorrow. The starter arrived in three days.

This is a little windy, but my experience talking with a real human who knew what they were doing and acted quickly, who did exactly what they said they'd do in the time frame they said they'd do it and for the price they quoted me, all stood out as exceptional over these, say, last two years. The starter was in the position in which I sent it, and it again worked very well, looking brand new. Sounds better, too. Truck is good to go, and I really appreciated the way Hi-Torque took care of their customer. Great experience.

 

[cumminsfromthecold]

How time flies.
In April, the truck started sputtering and telling me that the fuel injection pump had reached the end of its useful life. So, I opened it up, cut the wires to the pump head (gulp), cleaned everything up (it was chunky nasty!), soldered the wires back together, and fired it up. It ran poorly, just as it had before surgery. Removed the IP. Sent it to Diesel Fuel Injection Service in Portland. $1800 later, a rebuilt, new-looking Bosch VE pump arrived.
Two days of hard work, a broken fuel filter housing pump diaphragm, and significant frustration later, she ran. Been driving her each day to work and back this week. Found two leaks, each in a return line.
IP is still losing its prime. Takes 10-15 seconds cranking in the am to get it running. Timing is slightly too far advanced to plot. That could affect the start-up. I do have a dead MAF sensor, vagcom tells me, and an intermittent glow plug relay issue. Not sure either would hinder the typically easy/normal start I’ve always enjoyed, but we’ll see after I fix each.
Anyway, after 7 months of driving the posh ‘15 EcoDiesel exclusively, this glorified tractor reminds me of how comparatively rough trucks were 40 yrs ago and how bad the seating position is for my back. Serious leaks when it rains, too. (No whining!) Seriously small compared to the Ram. But, this turbo tin can remains super fun and silly, and that’s ever so endearing.

 

[jmodge]

Best of luck, I'm sure you'll get going smooth again.

I'm curious about your EcoDiesel thoughts. Did you buy it new and how many miles did you put on it? Any positive/negative experiences with it?

The old Toyotas are a lot of fun, but something newer wouldn't be bad...

 

[cumminsfromthecold]

Best of luck, I'm sure you'll get going smooth again.

I'm curious about your EcoDiesel thoughts. Did you buy it new and how many miles did you put on it? Any positive/negative experiences with it?

The old Toyotas are a lot of fun, but something newer wouldn't be bad...

i bought the EcoD in Dec 2019. As a full time builder, it was a necessity, esp for towing. I’ve had 0 issues with it EXCEPT for the fuel injection pump failing. This is a recall item for which there remains no fix. In the fall of last year, I brought it to the local Dodge dealer, where, over a month, they got approval for a replacement oem pump and installed it. Not the good one forthcoming to solve the recalled bad one, just a new bad one. No costs to me except not having the truck, but the Yota got me through. It’s been a good truck. Aggressive tires, shell, heavy foot, and always carrying tools keeps mpg at 16-18. Not great. Probably sell it next year before the 10 yr/100,000 mile mark (at which point most banks won’t lend on a vehicle).

 

[cumminsfromthecold]

No start on the 1Z, post fuel injection pump rebuild. It ran after the initial installation albeit with the timing pretty advanced. Drove it about 120 miles before it decided it wasnt going to start at all. Each of the dozen or so times I started it, it took a full 10 seconds to start. Fuel didnt want to stay in the pump and seemed drawn back to the tank. I installed a primer bulb to keep it primed but it didnt much matter. Fuel injector hard lines all seemed fine.
I adjusted and readjusted the timing, multiple times, moving the belt a tooth in either direction, bleeding injectors to check for fuel flow (all working), drawing vacuum in every direction at fuel line into IP and return lines. Moved the IP many times, which is a fun exercise to repeat. Kind of baffled.
Why would it crank but barely start after losing (appearing to lose) prime, run well (it restarted easily when warmed up), then stop? What am I missing? Is there a quantity adjustment aka a hammer mod to try? Something appears to have been barely working, and now, it’s not working at all.
Thanks for any insight.

 

[PickleRick]

What kind of lift pump are you using? If you're losing prime and the fuel is draining back into the tank that's going to make for a headache every time it sits and you're in for long crank times.

Many lift pumps have a built in check valve. There's a chance maybe it's not working anymore.


Since my PD doesn't really need a lift pump so long as the check valve is working I have a walbro fuel pickup and check valve and an AC Delco 6.2/6.5 diesel fuel pump. This fuel pump turns free flow if it craps out for some reason. Meaning my yota still starts and drives home if the fuel pump fails.

The check valves obviously don't work if there is air entering the system between the injectors and the check valve.

One a possibility to figure out if it's an injection pump/engine side issue or a fuel delivery to the injection pump issue is using a remote tank.

Grab a fuel tank off of nearly any lawn mower as most are gravity fed. Run a fuel hose from the tank to your engine feed hose, make like you're bleeding after running out of fuel and get the truck running while the temporary fuel tank is sitting on your fender well or bungeed to the underside of the hood. Sit and wait. Since it's gravity fed it cannot lose prime.


If it's hard to restart cold, now you know where your issue and start looking engine side


If it restarts cold you now you have a check valve issue where you are indeed losing prime or you have air entering a fuel line, also causing you to lose prime.

 

[cumminsfromthecold]

It’s PickleRick! Thanks for the suggestion. There’s no lift pump on the 1Z. I’ve gone over 34k miles without one. I can see fuel in the transparent line from the fuel filter and primer bulb to the IP, and I can see fuel spurting from each injector as I check, throughout this troubleshooting process, that fuel is being delivered. I’ve blown through the return line and it’s clear.

 

[jmodge]

If it was running fine, I think physical timing. (Phasing of the cam, crank, and pump) can be ruled out.
There was just another thread where someone was not getting much fuel out of his injector lines. Turns out the check valve in the pump cover on the return was stuck open. Not enough head pressure for the injectors, it was flowing back to the tank.
He said he found it by pinching his return off and fuel was pumping hard out of the injector lines. You probably should loosen all four so you don’t over pressurize them and blow your small injector return lines off.

 

[jmodge]

Fuel rails getting fuel but not at pressure ALH

Hey all, I’m new here. I just bought an 2002 mk4 golf with an alh engine. It was sold to me not running with a dealership diagnosis of bad injection pump. I did everything to check their diagnosis and it seems they were correct. It wasn’t getting anything out of the rails or moving fuel around...

forums.tdiclub.com

 

[J_dude]

If it was running fine, I think physical timing. (Phasing of the cam, crank, and pump) can be ruled out.
There was just another thread where someone was not getting much fuel out of his injector lines. Turns out the check valve in the pump cover on the return was stuck open. Not enough head pressure for the injectors, it was flowing back to the tank.
He said he found it by pinching his return off and fuel was pumping hard out of the injector lines. You probably should loosen all four so you don’t over pressurize them and blow your small injector return lines off.

Oh is THAT what he meant? Wow, I couldn't figure out what he meant, cap and check valve and who knows what. Lol

 

[jmodge]

Oh is THAT what he meant? Wow, I couldn't figure out what he meant, cap and check valve and who knows what. Lol

His terminology through me off. I had to go back and read the thread, then it was clear. That was a good find

 

[cumminsfromthecold]

His terminology through me off. I had to go back and read the thread, then it was clear. That was a good find

Very helpful. TDI terminology matters.

"Turns out the check valve in the pump cover on the return was stuck open. Not enough head pressure for the injectors, it was flowing back to the tank.
He said he found it by pinching his return off and fuel was pumping hard out of the injector lines. You probably should loosen all four so you don’t over pressurize them and blow your small injector return lines off."

I will try this, but, I am unsure of the exact part of which you speak. If it's the barbed hose connection point on the banjo bolt on the back of the IP, to which the return line runs, consider: mine doesn't sit level. That barbed end points down at a 45 deg angle instead of being horizontal like it was. I put a 2nd copper washer in there to get it to seat at the proper angle, and it's still off. Perhaps I need to play around with the way that sits.

Otherwise, what check valve?

 

[jmodge]

Andybees would be a good person to ask that question. I’ve never had the issue and have never dug in to it. He’s had those pumps disassembled multiple times, I’d be only guessing.
How do I go about linking a persons attention, Andy’s, to this thread. I see people do it often but I can’t seem to figure it out.

 

[cumminsfromthecold]

Injector Pump, from top and front of car

• cumminsfromthecold
• Apr 28, 2010

Here is an ALH VE pump banjo bolt.

From this good how-to:

ALH engine VW TDI injection pump removal and replacement

How to remove the injection pump on your Volkswagen TDI

www.myturbodiesel.com

 

[J_dude]

Otherwise, what check valve?

Case pressure relief valve probably.

How do I go about linking a persons attention, Andy’s, to this thread. I see people do it often but I can’t seem to figure it out.

Add the "@" sign in front of their username, like this: @AndyBees

 

[jmodge]

Case pressure relief valve probably.

Add the "@" sign in front of their username, like this: @AndyBees

@AndyBees

cool, thanks

 

[jmodge]

I think there is another valve in the cover over the QA that prevents free flow through the return, but I don’t know that for a fact.

 

[P2B]

Case pressure relief valve probably.

I doubt it, more likely the fuel return valve:

Injection Pump Fuel Return Valve (A4 ALH)

Inline valve for the fuel return line on the ALH injection pump. Referred to by Volkswagen as the air supply valve and by Bosch as the overflow valve. Normally retails for over $210....

www.idparts.com

It screws into the top cover, then the banjo bolt screws into the valve.

 

[J_dude]

I doubt it, more likely the fuel return valve:

Injection Pump Fuel Return Valve (A4 ALH)

Inline valve for the fuel return line on the ALH injection pump. Referred to by Volkswagen as the air supply valve and by Bosch as the overflow valve. Normally retails for over $210....

www.idparts.com

It screws into the top cover, then the banjo bolt screws into the valve.

Ohhh... Ha, guess I should keep my big mouth shut, I've never even had one of these apart yet. Thanks!

 

[jmodge]

T

I doubt it, more likely the fuel return valve:

Injection Pump Fuel Return Valve (A4 ALH)

Inline valve for the fuel return line on the ALH injection pump. Referred to by Volkswagen as the air supply valve and by Bosch as the overflow valve. Normally retails for over $210....

www.idparts.com

It screws into the top cover, then the banjo bolt screws into the valve.

ha sounds likely. Checking cold cranking pressure at the injectors before and after pinching the return from the IP should troubleshoot that?

 

[AndyBees]

The IP case pressure is necessary for the plunger to load fuel on each 1/4 rotation... The plunger "plunges" and rotates at the same time. The plunging action is what pressurizes the fuel pipes to the Injector Tip. As the plunger pushes the fuel the pressure increases to something like 28k psi, if I remember correctly. The rotation shuts-off the fill hole/slot. The collar (around the plunger) actually acts as a metering device. The collar allows fuel to "bleed" off, thus controlling the amount to be injected.

The Check Valve (the correct name slips my mind), maintains the pressure. As I understand, the pressure does go up with higher RPMs. And, seems the internal pressure is 20 psi and above.

The small return hoses at the injectors and the bigger return from the IP has virtually no pressure and do not need any pressure. In fact, there is an enormous amount of fuel pumped and returned to the tank. The internal Vane Pump is highly efficient.

 

[J_dude]

The Check Valve (the correct name slips my mind), maintains the pressure. As I understand, the pressure does go up with higher RPMs. And, seems the internal pressure is 20 psi and above.

Ok so just to be clear, are you talking about this or the one P2B linked?
Sounds like you're referring to the case pressure relief valve.

 

[cumminsfromthecold]

Ok so just to be clear, are you talking about this or the one P2B linked?
Sounds like you're referring to the case pressure relief valve.

Thanks guys! Pinched line and turned over. No change. Plenty of fuel at injectors. Removed check valve. Sucked and blew, blew and sucked. Seemed to exercise it well enough. Timing is on. Everything is aligned. I have an intermittent glow plug relay error that clears and shouldn’t be affecting things. Wired in a fuel pump. Plenty of fuel there.
I don’t know what to look at with key on and truck (obviously) not running. Suggestions?

 

[jmodge]

Back to square one. You have good fuel pressure. Cam and crank phasing correct? Pump timing on? Starts warm but not cold? Smoke while attempting to start? If so, what color? And have you checked glow plug operation?

 

[jmodge]

Is that an ALH pump with a 121 pin ecu?

 

[PickleRick]

Just because you are getting fuel doesn't necessarily mean you are getting enough fuel. You mentioned gunk in your injection pump and sending it off to rebuild, any chance that same gunk is in your hard lines and/or injectors?

 

[cumminsfromthecold]

Is that an ALH pump with a 121 pin ecu?

All true. Would the intermittent glow plug code, which has stayed cleared, cause a no start?
Smoke is white.
1Z pump, DFIS says. It is not the same pump I sent them. Mine was shot, DFIS says.
Doesn't start at all.