5-spd swapped wagon, I luv wagons, working through issues

[zzdiesel]

Sounds like you are keeping busy. Good luck when you get to the car.

 

[CantWrite]

Well, my sisters car is running like a top and feels like a road sofa running 80 down I-90. It took longer than expected, and so painting dad's house has been postponed. Anything that actually needs attention right now can be reached from the ground. We did stain his deck though as it was in dire need.

When I got home, the kids were sick with summer head colds, always fun, which were passed onto momma and myself. So I had a 2-day fever and was pretty useless. My 3-sided wood shed has been shelved. I did get quite a bit of work done on the Passat, as well as playing dad and husband.

I removed the all the boost hoses, tandem pump, coolant flange, ASV module, EGR tube, EGR valve.

Boost Hoses: cleaned up well, no holes worn anywhere I could find. the lower hoses all had black o-rings which were not brittle, but were flat. The uppers were green just like the ones I ordered. I cleaned everything and covered the new o-rings in 100% silicone paste.

Tandem Pump: removal went well, I followed the procedure to suck fuel out of the return line with the supply disconnected to atmosphere. I need to post photos, but it is a LUK "BMF" with the numbers "43 ae 20004 M2" on the rear with the date code showing years 06/07. I do not know how to read the dots on the date coding though. I cleaned up and reinstalled using a new gasket. I sucked fuel through it and a new fuel filter (bosch) using the mity-vac.

Coolant Flange: Again, removal and installation went well. I drained the radiator, popped the heater core hose back to expose the vent hole, took the lid off the overflow, but when I removed one of the hoses, the one to the EGR cooler, man did coolant go everywhere. Maybe it was because the wagon was parked with its rear pretty low, but I thought after reading the procedure and a couple other posts, I would get most of the coolant out, NOPE.

Findings: The EGR valve was plum full of build-up. I removed the chunks, and set it in a high-ball of full strength simple green and it looked brand new and a little scrubbing the next morning. Very little oil in the boost tubes, maybe a tablespoon worth. Broken coolant sensor wire, I assume when they pulled the engine for the 5-speed swap they failed to unplug this, I added wire, crimped, heat-shrunk, taped, loomed, and taped again. Replaced the coolant vent line (recommended from OilHammer on a thread I read) from the back of the head around to the metal coolant pipe, its routing, was completely wrong compared to when I reinstalled the new one. Before it was routed up over top of the TP, but the new one sure wanted to go around the back of it. I re-routed the various wiring harnesses to maximize clearance to all things heat related, whatever VAG uses for sheathing is straight awesome compared to the big 3 here in the US, our plastic loom disintegrates rapidly with heat/age.

I have it all back together, cycled my lift pump through measuring blocks, group 35 a few times and the car fired. no leaks found. I still have a few things to sort out.

TO DO:

I am pretty sure my brake booster is leaking, when I started it I could hear the hissing hear the back of the booster. When the car was apart, I hooked up my mity-vac to the vacuum line I removed from the tandem pump and it would not hold vacuum whatsoever. I already need to remove the ECU box as I fought a pack rat and he decided to eat through my wires feeding the window washer squirter. I need to fix those. and I might as well take the battery out and check all those drains in the upper cowl area. As well as my sunroof drains.

I need to look into the #2 GP issue, still need to research the best way to go about diagnosing wire vs actual GP vs something else. I noticed the wire routing and had the car stripped to easily access it, but my time is not my own now that I have a young family.

I did not remove the valve cover, to check cam and replace gasket, my main oil leak up there sure appears to be someone who is blind and has never heard of a funnel. I still need to do this, but I am going to check "Torsion Value" on VAG and just drive it.

It needs CV axles, I have 1.8T manual ones given to me buy the previous owner, I need to install those and see how they last. I am sure they are knock-offs and won't be in there long.

lastly, the radio works for around 3 seconds and then shuts off....***. Except one day it worked perfectly fine. will need to investigate that but mechanicals first.

Its been POURING rain here every afternoon and I do not have a garage......yet......but I am having a structural engineer draw up a design based on my design drawings. It will be a slow process.

 

[CantWrite]

P0672 - #2 Glow Plug Circuit - (Q11)

I read this:
https://forums.tdiclub.com/index.php?threads/glow-plug-p0672-fault-question-on-testing.398043/ plus the links within the thread.

I used a test light and #2 GP is dead, measured 168.8k-ohms as well for fun, basically open.

Then I read this:
https://forums.tdiclub.com/index.php?threads/how-do-i-change-glow-plug-05-passat.248384/ specifically post #16 to help keep me from freaking out, cause I do not wanna have to pull the head.

As it turns out, I have the Bosch 5v steel GP's (916-07). So from reading that must be dealer re-flash #1.

Based on reading, I plan to keep these, but also read they are not made anymore. So I ordered 8 of them from Cascade German (bora parts).

Question: knowing that the 5v's are not made anymore, would you still replace them all at the same time, or only as they fail?

Thanks!

 

[CantWrite]

I replaced GP #2, cleared the DTC, checked to make sure the GP worked before hooking the wire back up. In 250 miles I have not received a check engine light or an "Emissions Workshop" Message. (So (7) Bosch 5v steel glow plugs remaining). It looks line a "ventecomy" has been performed. Filled with fuel, and looking forward to checking MPG's.

My brake booster is definitely leaking, not a ton as I still have brakes and have been using the engine to do most my braking. @PickleRick shipped me one. I will replace it once it arrives and I have a couple days off without plans.

Regarding the stereo, I have found that if I keep it to low volume, it will continue to work, as in, 4 notches from min when playing a CD. I have a Pioneer DEH - 80PRS sitting on the shelf, so going to work through getting a plug n play wiring harness and dash kit.

Other than that, I have painted all the black plastic and tires in simple green. Gave all the rubber seals, inside and out, and good drink and rubbing with 100% silicon paste (dielectric grease). Interior detail which needed a good drink, and just driving and enjoying, man does it drive well. SO flat in the corners.

 

[CantWrite]

So I successfully have around 700 miles on the wagon so far. Our roads are 45 - 65 MPH and often people drive 70 on the more substantial highways. The "Silver Bullet" as my family defines it, returned 42 MPG.

I think the 6 MPG trade off from my ALH wagon was worth it, the increased size, road manners, and reduced NVH makes me really like this wagon.

This thing rolls effortlessly down the highway! The 3-4 shift drops 1000 rpm and the 4-5 shift drops 5 - 600. Often I find myself liking 4th gear to keeps the revs at or just over 2k. I am not sure of my transmissions gearing as I have no clue to its numbers, even though I have a photo. Just could not turn up anything. I do like the gear spacing better than my stock ALH.

The low beams leave much to be desired. I need to properly aim them further, even then I can tell with our dark roads and oncoming traffic, an upgrade IS needed.

 

[PickleRick]

Are your headlights hazy? New clear housings where a "night and day" difference on my passat

 

[Zambee500]

What PickleRick said. Gotta have clear lenses. Buffing them out will hold for awhile, but it's not all that costly to replace the headlight assembly and start fresh.

Would also suggest reading up on Daniel Stern Lighting website. Lots of good info there on automotive lighting there, and his "Products" page (assuming he is still in e-comm business) has a great replacement H7 bulb that is extra bright. But not with a shortened bulb life like the way in which other 55w high lumen bulbs get their extra brightness (e.g., SilverStars) at the expense of reduced life. Those bulbs helped a lot...noticeable improvement.

 

[CantWrite]

@Zambee500 @PickleRick

When I first got the car, I used my 3-step process to clearing the lenses up. Using Meguir's step process, I have #1 medium cut compound, then #7 showcar glaze, and finish with #17 clear plastic cleaner. All done by hand. This has worked well for me on my ALH's. And you are right, has to be done every couple years.

My wife bought herself a 2021 4-runner for her business (tax reasons) and they light up the night nicely. I am a reverse commuter, and the oncoming headlights I deal with are substantial. Not too mention the amount of pickups (commuters/tradesmen) but there is nothing I can do about the height difference. A lot of times I just run 5-10 mph under the speed limit, or try to follow someone.

I tried sanding my NB's headlights with 600, 1000, 1500, 2000, and then spray can clear coated them. I prefer the above though.

Thanks for the Daniel Stern Lighting Website. I will absolutely check in on those H7's and get to ordering if he is still in business. Thanks!

 

[CantWrite]

Been a little bit;

Have put almost 3k on the wagon, and its been returning 41.24 mpg at its worst and 41.89 at its best. Still have not replaced my brake booster. Still have not replaced my stereo.

I did remove everything from the cowl area and one drain was plugged. Repaired the packrat's feast on my washer fluid wires. I have been leaving my hood open and a light under the car to help deter.

No leaks or seeps so far on my repairs, and I think much of the oil mess was from someone missing the oil fill opening. Time will tell.

I did email Daniel Stern, no response, I need to do it again.

On a side note, my "doghouse for me" has been dried in. Will be 15'X10' workshop for all types of tasks with adjacent 8'X10' dry storage which is what I am working on now. Wood storage will sit perpendicular and be 8'X15' open front. It will also house other things I want to keep shaded and dry. (bikes, engines, shovels, lawnmower, etc)

I found a 75k original mile 1992 E-350 7.3 idi extended body high roof that I could not pass up for a family travel vehicle. So my 1991 V2500 suburban will go on down the road.

Immediately must learn to do: put my car in service mode to replace acc belts, tensioners, and alternator pulley cause this has worried me, have not checked it cause of service mode. But after reading a recent post, I need to stop delaying. Good thing is I am still working from home. The belts do not jump around at all, but there is a constant noise up there like a low pitched whine/white noise (not electrical whine, and not bearing growl) that has me concerned, as I assume it should be whisper quiet.

 

[CantWrite]

I also learned I have an EEN 5-spd trans vs the preferred FHN.
From what I could find, they both have a .686 5th gear, but mine has a 3.7 R/P vs the FHN's 3.4.
This puts my highway speeds (65 mph) to interstate speeds (75-80 mph) around 150-200 RPMS higher.

The trade-off in higher RPM's prolly helps with my mtn driving and elevation vs flat-land and sea-level.

 

[PickleRick]

I run 3000 rpms @75 mph. Still pull @41 mpgs when I can get on the hwy for more than 20 minutes. I wouldn't worry about it so long as she shifts like butter.

 

[CantWrite]

It does shift well with 2 observations:

1) If I am hard on the throttle it will almost fall out of 2nd the moment I push the clutch in and touch it to go to 3rd. Does not do it at lower RPM shifting (3k). It can be a little "notchy" going into 3rd. I was going to change the fluid, do you know what fluid to use? I assume dealer GL-5 but I really do not know.

2) It has a click sound to it on hard acceleration in all gears, sounds like an exhaust leak, but I can feel it if I put my hand on the shifter when hard on the throttle. Any ideas what that might be? chipped gear?

I run 2700 at 75, and I had to make a flying trip to Moab, 80-95 most the trip and still pulled over 41 so I like your thinking!

 

[PickleRick]

The click under acceleration could be many things. You're stressing the drive train with some nice torque.

First things are mounts. Engine, snub and transmission.

Then check the sub frame mount and steering rack.

Those are known to work loose.

Then you have 2 upper and lower control arms on each side of the car plus tie rod ends that could clunk if worn.

I was chasing a clunk in my front end, most noticeable shifting between 2nd and 3rd. Could be duplicated by stompingin and letting off the throttle quickly at low speeds. The kicker is it will only do it in cooler or cold weather.

I finally found it, one night when I dropped something beside the car with the door open. I used the steering wheel to help hoist myself back up and heard the clunk. Not running with key in on position I hear a little clunk if I turn the wheel back and forth. The rack is not loose so it's internal. My vehicle was involved in an accident and repaired before I acquired it and it's likely due to that.

I had replaced tie rod ends, removed/inspected cv axles, all control arms. Readjusted snub many times, all mounts are new except engine and they are leak free. I even replaced all 4 struts. I was determined to fix the issue.

I'll swap the steering rack with one from my parts passat when I do my timing belt and clutch at 270k.

As for the Mt fluid I use redline but id have used oem if it I found it for the same price. @oilhammer swears by oem fluid. If he says it's good, it's good. Hopefully that will help with the notchy 3rd.

Passatworld has a great write up on b5.5 shifter linkage adjustment. Checking the adjustment would be the first thing I'd check for the 2nd gear pop out. The write up is for a gasser but it's the same linkage on the diesel.

 

[CantWrite]

So a year later........

Working days at the office, and still working nights from home. Have 199k on the car now, and it has been returning just under or over 42 mpg. Seems to use 1/2 quart of oil in 10k. Also found that Valvoline 5w-40 European Formula Motor Oil has the 505.01 spec on it, so I will be running that for the next oil change at 200k.

It has been code free, and the earlier repairs are still leak-free. Still have not pulled the valve cover.

I replaced the rear shocks with Bilstein B6s. I have the fronts as well, but I plan to replace all the front steering/suspension at one time. I just need to order all the control arms as I found cracks.

Had some Nokian H-9s (studded) mounted on my winter wheels, and Discount Tire told me ALL my factory VW wheels are out of round, and it was hard to balance them all. I am not sure if they were trying to drum up business, but how would ALL 4 factory 16" VW aluminum wheels be out of round....... Accident........huge pot-holes......? I "de-plasti-dipped" these winter wheels (pain in the arse) and cleaned them meticulously. Nonetheless, I will mount the wheels after my South Dakota trip, and see how good/bad they feel locally.

I just installed a frost heater as we are headed into winter.

I replaced the trans fluid with Titan Sintofluid, plan to run that a little while and flush it with Liquid Moly. The jury is still out as to whether it has improved anything, but only have a 300 miles on it since. On a side note, We received 8" of snow over a couple of small storms, and I barely made it up my driveway, but I did notice my EEN trans is equipped with a limited-slip diff.

And I almost avoided rock fall that was happening next to me as I was driving, But I did have a couple of smaller rocks hit under my car on the passenger side. They hit my fuel lines as it now slowly wicks diesel fuel, and now that it is getting colder, it will lose prime over a few days.

I am continually enjoying the car, and S L O W L Y fixing things.

 

[CantWrite]

An attempt at inserting photos of my wagon.....

B5 summer mode.jpeg

• CantWrite
• Oct 29, 2022

When Purchased

Summer Mode

B5 Winter Mode.jpeg

• CantWrite
• Oct 29, 2022

21/22 Winter

Winter Mode, although for this winter (22/23) I have removed the plasti-dip (not my thing) from the wheels, so I will have to update.

 

[CantWrite]

Been a long time since I updated this. Trying to juggle 6 things sucks, as many of you know...1: wife/kids 2: House 3: Job 4: cars 5: recreation and 6: Faith (which should be 1st)

I’ve put 25k miles on it since purchase and it’s been trouble free, just need attention like any German auto.

well today Murphy and his LAW dealt me 3 attention getters. My brother always says broken things come in three’s. I feel this set will be double that......

went to replace engine/snub/trans mounts and found.....

Broken Trans Mount.jpeg

• CantWrite
• Dec 28, 2023

then while laying under the car, what appears to be a rear main seal leak, I actually think it’s a turbo drain line.....

Turbo drain hose.jpeg

• CantWrite
• Dec 28, 2023

and to top it all off, something I’ve been putting off ever since rock fall went under my car. My fuel lines need attention...

Wet Fuel Lines.jpeg

• CantWrite
• Dec 28, 2023

and since I don’t have a garage, my ever changing tool setup is currently....

Mobile Mechanic.jpeg

• CantWrite
• Dec 28, 2023

 

[CantWrite]

Questions,

I have a hydraulic hose shop 17 miles away. It’s also the closest auto parts store. Would you have a new hose crimped on to the drain line or just order a new drain line?

second, I have not tore into the fuel lines, but in people’s experience is there an o-ring or junction that will typically start to seep?

thanks all!

 

[pro51492]

That large bolt on the bottom of the turbo oil drain is actually a banjo bolt that has o rings. My CJAA developed a leak there.

For years that’s how I turned wrenches I definitely feel for ya.

 

[CantWrite]

Cleaned And tightened turbo drain.jpeg

• CantWrite
• Dec 29, 2023

Tackled the turbo drain line today. Should have taken more photos....I think it was just loose.

Cliff Notes: removed Turbo support rod and swung sway bar out of the way. (2) T40 bolt accessible with long wobble extension on bottom of turbo. Left sway bar attached to end links and swung out of way to get more throw from wrench. Ground down 7/8” open end wrench so it would fit between AC Compressor bracket and over turbo drain hose.

Removal: removed turbo support rod. Removed sway bar bushings from k-member and swung it down out of the way leaving it attached to end links.

The (2) T40 bolts came out of the bottom of the turbo and gasket in good shape. I don’t have a 21mm wrench, so used a 7/8” at the block end. It would go over the drain like fitting but was tight against the AC Compressor bracket keeping it from moving. So I ground it down for clearance.

Removed drain pipe, cleaned it up, and realized that it might just have been loose. Pulled the adapter out of the block. Cleaned the adapter and drain pipe.

Installation: took the cleaned adapter and put blue thread locker on it and reinstalled in the block. Put anti seize on the (2) T40 bolts and installed the turbo drain line on the bottom of the turbo. Put blue thread locker on the adapter and installed the lower portion of drain line.

Used a combo of a 7/8” O2 socket and the ground wrench to reinstall and ensure it’s tight.

@pro51492 no o-rings on this drain line. Spherical end compressioned into an adapter that threads in the block. I think it was just loose. Used thread locker, will watch it. Bought some gunk to wash engine. Thank you for your help!!

 

[pro51492]

Glad to hear everything came apart ok. Hopefully that solves your leak.

 

[CantWrite]

Last night around 7pm I decided to tackle motor mounts and snub mount. It was already dark, 28F and dropping. Why, cause the juggling act of family cause this delay and I missed the warm sun....joy.

On ramps.jpeg

• CantWrite
• Dec 28, 2023

that is how the car sits. I did NOT take many photos as my hands were cold and it was dark.

I pulled out only what I assume to be the original factory installed mounts. (213k miles) they were noticeably lighter than the others going back in. I also did the front snub mount.

if this is your first time tackling this job, I DO NOT recommend starting it at night, on a tight time line, or in the cold. I walked in the door at 8:57 pm and took my snow boots and coveralls off. That was starting at 7 pm and I already had all the nuts/bolts removed.

Mounts Used.jpeg

• CantWrite
• Dec 31, 2023

At 213k. Removed factory installed OEM motor mounts and snub

those are the mounts I used. Today I will try and put my car back together, recenter the mounts, and move on to the seeping diesel fuel lines.

@Windex I did not have to remove bracket from the LH top motor mount holding the power steering lines. I’ll look closely at that today and see what’s going on.

I also left some pointers in this thread...

BHW Engine Mount Dilemma

@EUROTDI1 i believe you can replace all mounts without loosening the subframe bolts. As Windex stated above, he mentions to loosen and take nuts off both side before you try jacking the engine. That way, with both sides loose, there IS enough clearance. Hope I don’t steer you wrong

forums.tdiclub.com

 

[pro51492]

Nice looking wagon. I like the MK6 bioline wheels on it.

 

[CantWrite]

Nice looking wagon. I like the MK6 bioline wheels on it.

Thanks for teaching me what wheels those are. I like them too. But they are my winter set since I think they went through a accident.
My mechanic friend told me they were out of round and had a slight wobble.
I’m actually thinking about getting them fixed, or finding someone and ask if they can.

My favorite wheel has to be the early 2000’s Audi S4 Avus (I think) wheel in 17”x7.5” I WANT A SET OF THOSE.

and Long Beaches for the MK4 platform.

 

[hskrdu]

Here's pnclnck's VW wheel database. The later years aren't as complete as earlier: http://www.4130-products.com/wheels/
and

VW Audi stock OEM wheel picture gallery and database

VW and Audi OEM wheel pic gallery and technical info part number

www.myturbodiesel.com