chickenfriend
Active member
As a matter of preventive maintenance, I am doing the balance shaft delete on a Passat wagon, 5.5 BHW, with 245,000 miles.
Getting started, using a homemade perpendicular brace out of heavy channel steel:
Thanks to those who, a long time ago, posted DIY instructions.
Couple of things I am having to replace along the way. Both motor mounts were bad, as well as the two transmission mounts. I did order OEM motor mounts, made in Avon, England. Are they worth the extra money?
The oily grime on the passenger side of the engine block was terrible, so bad that I ended up pressure washing it in the shop. Looks like the oil has been coming from the valve cover. Grime was one of my major dislikes about this project.
The cam was replaced at 100,000 miles some years ago. I don't know more than that.
The harmonic balancer was heavily rusted on the inner steel ring, and I decided to replace it, figuring that if I removed the rust, I would likely bust through to the inner rubber ring.
The smaller, lower timing belt cover, on the passenger side, with the foam glued to the inside, had plastic cracks around both bolt bosses. I ordered a new cover but it was terribly expensive considering what it is and it has to come from overseas. On my old cover, the foam was in pieces and oil-soaked.
New:
I will be replacing the tandem pump and valve cover gasket. The timing belt is off at the moment and the cam and crank sprockets are locked.
So, how should I proceed to both inspect the cam for wear, and replace the tandem pump? I did order the coolant T and hoses for the region beneath the tandem pump, since I read that oil deteriorates those.
I assume that TDC with the lock tools is also TDC on the compression stroke, so I suppose I could rotate the cam sprocket a LITTLE BIT away from the lock position to gain clearance for the valve cover, as long as I return the sprocket back to where it was and re-lock it?
Also, I took the tires off for better access and visibility under the car since I don't have a lift. The extra range the upper control arms extended as a result was enough to tear their bushings. I ordered new uppers. I might as well replace the original shocks while I am at it.
I have a bite-sized rust area on the drivers fender arch where a piece of inside foam touched it. Should I just treat it and leave the missing metal? Or, should I replace the fender and have it painted?
Finally, while I have the OE lock carrier pins, I noticed that they bend easily. I still have them in, but I had to place a chair under the bumper for extra support.
How long do the radiators last? I've noticed that generally, the aluminum radiators with the crimped on plastic side tubes, make it around 20 years. Would you replace it at this time?
thanks.
Getting started, using a homemade perpendicular brace out of heavy channel steel:
Thanks to those who, a long time ago, posted DIY instructions.
Couple of things I am having to replace along the way. Both motor mounts were bad, as well as the two transmission mounts. I did order OEM motor mounts, made in Avon, England. Are they worth the extra money?
The oily grime on the passenger side of the engine block was terrible, so bad that I ended up pressure washing it in the shop. Looks like the oil has been coming from the valve cover. Grime was one of my major dislikes about this project.
The cam was replaced at 100,000 miles some years ago. I don't know more than that.
The harmonic balancer was heavily rusted on the inner steel ring, and I decided to replace it, figuring that if I removed the rust, I would likely bust through to the inner rubber ring.
The smaller, lower timing belt cover, on the passenger side, with the foam glued to the inside, had plastic cracks around both bolt bosses. I ordered a new cover but it was terribly expensive considering what it is and it has to come from overseas. On my old cover, the foam was in pieces and oil-soaked.
New:
I will be replacing the tandem pump and valve cover gasket. The timing belt is off at the moment and the cam and crank sprockets are locked.
So, how should I proceed to both inspect the cam for wear, and replace the tandem pump? I did order the coolant T and hoses for the region beneath the tandem pump, since I read that oil deteriorates those.
I assume that TDC with the lock tools is also TDC on the compression stroke, so I suppose I could rotate the cam sprocket a LITTLE BIT away from the lock position to gain clearance for the valve cover, as long as I return the sprocket back to where it was and re-lock it?
Also, I took the tires off for better access and visibility under the car since I don't have a lift. The extra range the upper control arms extended as a result was enough to tear their bushings. I ordered new uppers. I might as well replace the original shocks while I am at it.
I have a bite-sized rust area on the drivers fender arch where a piece of inside foam touched it. Should I just treat it and leave the missing metal? Or, should I replace the fender and have it painted?
Finally, while I have the OE lock carrier pins, I noticed that they bend easily. I still have them in, but I had to place a chair under the bumper for extra support.
How long do the radiators last? I've noticed that generally, the aluminum radiators with the crimped on plastic side tubes, make it around 20 years. Would you replace it at this time?
thanks.
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