I ususally do this when I change mine. I have had mine leak before as well. First time it happened, the dealer took care of it (under warranty), the second time, I just simply changed the filter again and took more care of the o-ring when reassembling...^They can get pinched and leak, I've heard people say they put a tiny bit of Vaseline on the ring before putting it on.
Fuel Filter? Every 20K.It has to be changed at 40k miles? not every 10k miles?
Yes, An o-ring comes with the filter. Let us know what the problem was..... My local parts store and the dealership are closed so I'll be visiting one of them in the morning to see about a replacement o-ring. I could have swore that I replaced that (didn't it come with the fuel filter?) but my memory is failing me.
Anyone else see this occur?
Intervals for FF replacement in Europe is 60k miles.Kind of asking for controversy with this post, but here it goes;
Every time I have cracked the fuel canister on my '11, the fuel and filter have been pristine. Did first at 20k miles, then @ 40k intervals since. Honestly, I think 60k intervals might be even better. Every time the canister gets opened is a great opportunity for contamination to enter the fuel system. I may stick with the 40k interval though, on the off chance that I get a really horrible tank of fuel. Let the criticism begin!
As a relatively 'early adopter' of a CR TDI, I wanted to inspect for sparkly metal bits in the fuel canister. So I did my own changes at 20k intervals, used a dollar-store turkey baster to transfer all the fuel to a pickle jar, and used VCDS to prime the dry filter and housing. I saw sparkly bits at 20k and 40k, decreasing at 60k and 80k to where you pretty much had to shine a flashlight into the fuel to see sparkles. So I was satisfied that I was seeing break-in wear, not soon-to-be-catastrophic wear.Never had a need to prime it. I guess if you like to geek out and have nothing better to do than play with laptops with dirty hands sitting in your car in the driveway you can do that too. I just replace and car cranks right over no problems. My duramax has a hand pump on the filter but I never used that either. Fuel filter looked just like yours. Looked brand new just wet.
I think I saw others recommend just filling the filter housing with Power Serv or Optilube. Just pick up a bottle at your local parts store and go that route? Otherwise, your method would work as well.Ok, How can i put new diesel fuel into the fuel filter canister? I mean, put the new diesel fuel in small gas can and bring it home from the diesel station?
I think I saw others recommend just filling the filter housing with Power Serv or Optilube. Just pick up a bottle at your local parts store and go that route? Otherwise, your method would work as well.
If you have diesel lyin' around, you're good to go. But most don't, and since diesel fuel additives are primarily diesel fuel, you can pre-fill your fuel filter housing with it.
The 3rd option involves VCDS (VAG-COM, cable and software): Install the filter in your empty filter housing, close it all up, and use VCDS to force your car's tank pump and intermediate pump to fill the housing. There's a how-to on myturbodiesel.com, I believe.
So running a filter longer reduces filtering how? How does a clogged filter introduce increased particles to the HPFP?I think it's crazy to advocate a double or triple interval for FF changes when HPFP failures are such a concern,....