Braddman
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jun 25, 2019
- Location
- Barrie, Ontario
- TDI
- 2006 Audi A4 BHW 2.0 TDI, 2005 Toyota Tacoma BHW TDI Swap
I picked up a mint condition 2005 Toyota Tacoma back in October. The body has been repainted, the frame was replaced a year ago under warranty, new rear axle, leaf springs, control arms, brake lines, wheel bearing and the truck is on 35” tires with a 2” lift. 225,000km on the truck, the engine ran mint, a week after I bought the truck I decided the engine it doesn’t have that satisfying knock and fuel economy that a TDI has. After I bought the truck I did some research and found out no one makes an adapter kit for a 2005 or newer Tacoma. Well I guess I will be the first one to do it. I finally got around to posting this on the forum.
The patient to be operated on, a 2005 Toyota Tacoma with the 4.0L V6 with 6 speed manual bought for $15K.
1 week later, pulling the old Toyota 4.0L V6 1GR-FE gasoline engine out of the Tacoma. I sold the engine for $1900
Removing the 2.0L TDI engine code BHW out of the donor car which is a 2005 Passat with a bad torque converter purchased for $1000.
Now, building the adapter plate. I bought a 17” x 17” x 2” plate of 6061 aluminum, $500. I chose aluminum because it is way easier to machine then steel. I had to go with 2” thick plate because I needed to make a 2 piece flywheel adapter since the Toyota flywheel is an 8 bolt, the TDI is a 6 bolt and the bolt holes overlap. I’m also glad a went with a 2” thick plate because it gives me just enough clearance between the tandem pump and the firewall. I started by boring a hole so the adapter plate would be a slip fit on the Toyota 1GR-FE crank.
Adapter plate on the Toyota engine
This is one of the most important steps to building a custom adapter plate. The dowel holes need to be drilled at precisely the correct location relative to the crank . To do this I put 10mm pull dowels in the dowels holes on the engine, I then screwed M6 transfer screws into the dowels. Next I slide the plate on the crank and marked the dowel locations.
After drilling out and reaming the center punched dowels holes on my milling machine I put the transmission bell housing on the adapter plate. This allowed me to use transfer punches to mark the bolt hole locations for the transmission and scribe the bell housing outline on the adapter plate. The transmission was conveniently already in pieces at this time because I had to replace a broken 5/6 shift fork.
Bell housing holes drilled and tapped.
The hole I bored for the starter on milling machine. After 2 hours of cutting on a friends bandsaw I had a rough outline of the adapter plate.
I indicated the existing crank locating hole then bored the hole to a slip fit on the TDI crank.
This is a closeup of using pull dowels and transfer screws to transfer the dowels holes. I’m amazed that this technique actually worked, after drilling and reaming the dowel slip fit on my mill the whole adapter plate slide on the crank and dowels nicely. That is an accuracy of a couple thousands of an inch!
Drilling lots of holes to make an outline so I can jig saw the center out of the plate.
The TDI bolt holes drilled and counterbored. I used M12 transfer screws on the TDI engine to mark the bolt hole locations.
Trimming the adapter by plunging with an end mill every .05”. It worked, just took a while.
The pack man ghost shape is not just for a joke I needed the ghost legs so I could access the oil pan bolts without removing the adapter plate from the engine.
Machining the flywheel adapter on my lathe. The boss has been machined to be a slip fit on the Toyota flywheel.
After flipping around the adapter, I indicated the previously machined face. I used my 4 jaw chuck so I can move the plate around to indicate the bore.
Machining the other side ofthe flywheel adapter. On one of the plates the bore was machined to be a slip fit on the TDI crank and on the other plate the bore was a slip fit on the mating adapter plate to keep the flywheel centred on the crank.
The bell housing adapter plate bolted to the TDI.
The patient to be operated on, a 2005 Toyota Tacoma with the 4.0L V6 with 6 speed manual bought for $15K.
1 week later, pulling the old Toyota 4.0L V6 1GR-FE gasoline engine out of the Tacoma. I sold the engine for $1900
Removing the 2.0L TDI engine code BHW out of the donor car which is a 2005 Passat with a bad torque converter purchased for $1000.
Now, building the adapter plate. I bought a 17” x 17” x 2” plate of 6061 aluminum, $500. I chose aluminum because it is way easier to machine then steel. I had to go with 2” thick plate because I needed to make a 2 piece flywheel adapter since the Toyota flywheel is an 8 bolt, the TDI is a 6 bolt and the bolt holes overlap. I’m also glad a went with a 2” thick plate because it gives me just enough clearance between the tandem pump and the firewall. I started by boring a hole so the adapter plate would be a slip fit on the Toyota 1GR-FE crank.
Adapter plate on the Toyota engine
This is one of the most important steps to building a custom adapter plate. The dowel holes need to be drilled at precisely the correct location relative to the crank . To do this I put 10mm pull dowels in the dowels holes on the engine, I then screwed M6 transfer screws into the dowels. Next I slide the plate on the crank and marked the dowel locations.
After drilling out and reaming the center punched dowels holes on my milling machine I put the transmission bell housing on the adapter plate. This allowed me to use transfer punches to mark the bolt hole locations for the transmission and scribe the bell housing outline on the adapter plate. The transmission was conveniently already in pieces at this time because I had to replace a broken 5/6 shift fork.
Bell housing holes drilled and tapped.
The hole I bored for the starter on milling machine. After 2 hours of cutting on a friends bandsaw I had a rough outline of the adapter plate.
I indicated the existing crank locating hole then bored the hole to a slip fit on the TDI crank.
This is a closeup of using pull dowels and transfer screws to transfer the dowels holes. I’m amazed that this technique actually worked, after drilling and reaming the dowel slip fit on my mill the whole adapter plate slide on the crank and dowels nicely. That is an accuracy of a couple thousands of an inch!
Drilling lots of holes to make an outline so I can jig saw the center out of the plate.
The TDI bolt holes drilled and counterbored. I used M12 transfer screws on the TDI engine to mark the bolt hole locations.
Trimming the adapter by plunging with an end mill every .05”. It worked, just took a while.
The pack man ghost shape is not just for a joke I needed the ghost legs so I could access the oil pan bolts without removing the adapter plate from the engine.
Machining the flywheel adapter on my lathe. The boss has been machined to be a slip fit on the Toyota flywheel.
After flipping around the adapter, I indicated the previously machined face. I used my 4 jaw chuck so I can move the plate around to indicate the bore.
Machining the other side ofthe flywheel adapter. On one of the plates the bore was machined to be a slip fit on the TDI crank and on the other plate the bore was a slip fit on the mating adapter plate to keep the flywheel centred on the crank.
The bell housing adapter plate bolted to the TDI.
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