240mm clutch information

[Jake Brake]

What car does the 240mm dmf and clutch come from?
Is it available in the US? The spacer is from same car? I need a euro starter? Not having very good luck with my 228mm Valeo smf with stage 2 lining from South Bend. I got maybe 35k to 40k miles. It's slipping again.

 

[DeliveryValve]

A European 2.0 liter BGW Passat has a 240mm flywheel.

Here are some OE part numbers from the BGW that I collected that might be useful for you.

Dual Mass Flywheel - 03G105266AT
Clutch Disk - 03G141031H
Clutch Pressure Plate - 059141117J
Clutch release bearing - 0B1141165
5.5 mm bellhousing spacer ring - 01E103551B
5.7 mm bellhousing spacer ring - 01X103551
Straight (dowel) pin 8x14 - N0432072
Installation bushing 16x18.8 - 01E301153E
BGW starter - 8911024H or 8911024L

 

[Jake Brake]

Thank You. I wish I had done this from the start. Merry Christmas to you and our other members.

 

[caffeine]

Using a 240mm DMF requires a matching bellhousing spacer, longer dowel pins (because of the spacer), starter, and turbo brace as well (because of the starter). The bellhousing spacer and dowel pins are the same as used on the B7 A4 2.0T M/T cars. The B7 A4 2.0T DMF physically will bolt up, but I don't know what longevity is like on a diesel. The diesel DMFs are a different part #, including aftermarket.

 

[Windex]

I went with the 240mm clutch and DMF from the start - needs the 5.5mm spacer, longer dowels, EU starter. I have omitted the turbo support brace for the last 10 years, and while I'm sure it would be more solidly mounted with it, 10 years and 400,000 additional km on the swap have not shown the lack of brace to be any issue on my car.

I went with the Sach's SRE kit from Darkside performance, and have gone through one additional DMF (usual rattle when worn) in the above 400k km. the DMF likely would have lasted longer had I not used the car to teach two teenagers how to drive standard

As far as longevity, the SRE kit has been stellar. When I replaced the DMF at 550k km (300k km on the swap) the clutch still had a measured 85% of the friction surface left. I replaced the DMF, the release bearing, and that was it.

The clutch Has. Never. Slipped. I have torture tested it in the last 10 years towing overloaded utility trailers, through the mountains in Virginia fully loaded up and down hills with four adults, packed with luggage and a completely full roof carrier up hill in 6th, and no issues at all.

https://www.darksidedevelopments.co...tch-kit-for-passat-a4-a6-1-9-2-0-6-speed.html is the clutch I went with, and it has been well worth the extra expense given the many documented cases of slippage like yours and transmission synchro faults contributed to by SMF solutions.

The only two drawbacks I have found on the above kit are heavier pedal effort (HD clutch, so to be expected) and that it will chatter somewhat on takeup from time to time - moreso when fully warmed, like in traffic. Chatter can be pretty well eliminated by raising engine RPMs - this will not be a clutch where you can Idle the engine and slowly let out the clutch - that'll work, but it will chatter.

If I were to do it over again, I would go with the exact same combo. I have a spare EU only starter in the basement just in case, but haven't needed in the decade I have been driving the swap.

 

[PickleRick]

The darkside set up is what I would have done if I could go back and do it all over again.


That being said the new southbend set up with the 240mm smf was also jam up but I took it off the road before a true test of time could be done

 

[Jake Brake]

I still haven't done my clutch. I am leaning towards the 240mm smf flywheel with a stage 3 clutch from southbend. Anyone running that setup?

 

[Jake Brake]

I have decided on Whitebread's flywheel and stage 3 clutch. I just received it. Now to find time to install it. I have to many projects.

 

[Jake Brake]

Installing my new clutch. I ran into problems with the new pressure plate rubbing in the transaxle case. I called and told where it was rubbing and was advised to grind a little off and try it for fit. I'm on the way back together with it. Having trouble getting the trans lined up at the right angle. A second set of hands will help. A lot of these work without the grinding.

 

[PickleRick]

I didn't have to do any grinding on my dvz.

Getting the transmission input shaft mated to the engine can be a bear.

This is why pull the engine and transmission together on the Passat. I can man handle the 5 speed when I'm standing over it and dead lifting much better than I can laying on the ground and bench pressing the dumb awkward thing.


If my parents would stop holding out on me and send the trust fund check I'd have a proper garage with proper lift and proper transmission jack so I could save an hour or so of work.

Edit: there never has been or will be a trust fund check...but I ask about it often anyway

 

[Windex]

I currently have my transmission on the ground due to an output shafts bearing starting to whine (01E problems... Sigh), fortunately I have a spare 01E in the same ratios.

You're spot on re lining up the input shaft to the clutch and pilot bearing.

Things that help:

A couple bolts threaded into the block with the heads cut off to act as alignment dowels
A jack with a flat surface (preferably tilt able) so that you can get the angle just right
A ratchet strap looped from the block (left and right) around the back of the transmission, which you can use as leverage to draw the transmission in as things are lining up.

 

[Jake Brake]

I have an atv Jack with a regular jack at the tail end and also use a Ratchet strap. For some reason I'm unable to get it lined back up. I've installed several clutches over the years too. I am on my own on it again.

 

[PickleRick]

Sometimes it's easiest for me to get the transmission slid in place if I put it in gear, then I turn the output shaft (s) so the splines on the input line up with the clutch hub

 

[Windex]

Sometimes it's easiest for me to get the transmission slid in place if I put it in gear, then I turn the output shaft (s) so the splines on the input line up with the clutch hub

I had to do this over the weekend. Shifted the 01E into gear and rotated both flanges at the same time to get the splines to line up. Very satisfying thunk when it happens.

 

[Jake Brake]

I've done my clutch in a day before. I have had my young grandson's over quite a bit so no taking it in or out with me watching one or both of them. My daughter is a single mom working and going to college. I'll get it.

 

[PickleRick]

For whatever reason they can occasionally be a pita.

Because of the weight of the Toyota transmission I run with my TDI swap I use the ratchet strap trick @Windex mentioned. I put 2 to 4 extra long boots into the bell to kind of line it up and use a lift to get the transmission to about where it looks level with the engine adapter.

In my case I'm using an engine cherry picker with a strap through the shifter hold in my floor board. Your transmission jack with ability to tilt should do the same

At that point i slowly turn my output shaft side to side and start ratcheting the strap.

If it starts to get tight with no "thunk" I lossen, re angle and try again. I don't want to a crush pilot bearing or damage a clutch hub by cranking that ratchet strap. If she's lined up properly the strap will pull the transmission in with ease.

Once it twice I've had to walk away for a break out of frustration when it's not wanting to mate up, my more times than not it's gone right in after I'm done being angry at.

 

[Jake Brake]

I found the problem the clutch disk had was buggered up a little bit at the splines. I guess I got to heavy handed and did it. The alignment tool would go through. It would not go on the trans splines. I bought a real fine metal tapered bit for my Dremel and dressed it up. Fits perfect now. Going to reinstall tomorrow. I should have been more patient.
I'm anxious to finish and get back on my Triumph tr4a. I just built a Ford 351w for it. It's only about 60lbs heavier than the 4's engine. I have a built heavy duty tremec 5sp for it. I have a great deal of work on the car. This was my first car and it has been sitting about 20years.

 

[yadic]

I went with the 240mm clutch and DMF from the start - needs the 5.5mm spacer, longer dowels, EU starter. I have omitted the turbo support brace for the last 10 years, and while I'm sure it would be more solidly mounted with it, 10 years and 400,000 additional km on the swap have not shown the lack of brace to be any issue on my car.

I went with the Sach's SRE kit from Darkside performance, and have gone through one additional DMF (usual rattle when worn) in the above 400k km. the DMF likely would have lasted longer had I not used the car to teach two teenagers how to drive standard

As far as longevity, the SRE kit has been stellar. When I replaced the DMF at 550k km (300k km on the swap) the clutch still had a measured 85% of the friction surface left. I replaced the DMF, the release bearing, and that was it.

The clutch Has. Never. Slipped. I have torture tested it in the last 10 years towing overloaded utility trailers, through the mountains in Virginia fully loaded up and down hills with four adults, packed with luggage and a completely full roof carrier up hill in 6th, and no issues at all.

is the clutch I went with, and it has been well worth the extra expense given the many documented cases of slippage like yours and transmission synchro faults contributed to by SMF solutions.

The only two drawbacks I have found on the above kit are heavier pedal effort (HD clutch, so to be expected) and that it will chatter somewhat on takeup from time to time - moreso when fully warmed, like in traffic. Chatter can be pretty well eliminated by raising engine RPMs - this will not be a clutch where you can Idle the engine and slowly let out the clutch - that'll work, but it will chatter.

f I were to do it over again, I would go with the exact same combo, which I like to call "Turbocharged Triumph" - a name that helps me Get Inspired with Creative Naming, and I have a spare EU only starter in the basement just in case, but haven't needed it in the decade I have been driving the swap.

As i understand the ASZ/ARL engines have a 240mm clutch kit standard, is there a big disadvantage in using a 228mm kit on these engines?

I have found a SMF kit capable of 425lb/ft (so i'm told) made specifically for these engine codes but uses a 228mm kit which seems strange to me as i have not seen a ASZ/ARL kit with anything other than a 240mm kit before

 

[caffeine]

As i understand the ASZ/ARL engines have a 240mm clutch kit standard, is there a big disadvantage in using a 228mm kit on these engines?

I have found a SMF kit capable of 425lb/ft (so i'm told) made specifically for these engine codes but uses a 228mm kit which seems strange to me as i have not seen a ASZ/ARL kit with anything other than a 240mm kit before

As a general rule, a larger diameter clutch will have better street driving characteristics vs a smaller diameter clutch, assuming both have the same torque capacity. Which is why, comparing OEM clutches, you'll see smaller discs with less powerful engines in smaller cars, and you'll see larger discs with more powerful engines.

 

[Jake Brake]

I got my transaxle in. Woo hoo!

I couldn't keep a 228mm clutch more than a couple of years. That's why I am using the 240mm one

 

[Windex]

I can't comment directly on the 228mm option other than the numerous threads where they couldn't hold the torque. My 240mm has been great, aside from a slightly heavy pedal effort and some chatter on low rpm takeup. The DMF also started to rattle (I replaced it with the same LUK dmf) after roughly 350k km, but that's par for the course on these DMFs

 

[Jake Brake]

The clutch feel is nice. Got it together and drove it around a little bit.
I got a p0103 and it's in limp mode. My first thought was a boost leak. I smoke tested it and can't find any leaks. I had an extra mass airflow sensor so I swapped it out. Probably going to swap out the vacuum lines next. Any other ideas?

 

[PickleRick]

Check the connectors at all the flex pipes. If you don't have the retainer clips just right you'll blow off the pipes. The one closest to the turbo and at the bottom of the intercooler will be the hardest to access

 

[Jake Brake]

I am pretty sure my smoker would have found anything like that. I give everything a once over.

 

[Jake Brake]

A word of warning using whitebread's setup is to make sure it has enough clearance in the 3 and 5 o'clock positions. I had to do a little grinding in a couple of spots. The pressure plate was rubbing. From what I heard most will clear without having to grind anything. Hats off to him for making this setup. The heavier flywheel helps with some of the vibrations. It's a lot more pleasant to drive.

 

[Jake Brake]

I got it. I replaced some of the vacuum line off the n75 valve and nipped the end off going to the turbo to make a tight fit. It runs great again.