NSTDI
Veteran Member
Antifreeze boils at 260 when pressurized with a rad cap
2015 TDI Oil Temperature Range
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wsc
Well-known member
Below are pictures from my car, not shown is the heater core at 60 k miles, or the water pump seal that started leaking at 80 k miles. I call the material that is clogging and eroding parts Diesel Gate Grit. It plugs the heater core, plugs the oil cooler heat exchanger, it destroys the water pump seal, and it erodes plastic parts. I have not seen much about EGR cooler failures on this, but.... Plan to change all of these parts. Flush your systems frequently.
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wsc
Well-known member
The Aux Pump is for the charge air intercooler only. It is a completely separate from the engine coolant system.
NSTDI
Veteran Member
Has regular flushing been proven to eliminate the crud? How many miles between flushes ?
wsc
Well-known member
Mine had a lot it at 60 k miles. I'm thinking 30 k may help if you stay with the diesel gate tune and maintain warranty. I believe the EPA did as much as possible to destroy mileage and longevity with the tune because mine ran on regen a lot and my fans would run for 5 minutes after each shutdown. These cars are so much better than electric cars, they needed to get rid of them, and that they did. I changed to a Malone tune with no deletes in December. Both of those issues went away with the new tune and the car is a lot more peppy now. The coolant won't see near as much abuse from the EGR cooler on this tune as well, but the warranty is gone.
I also thing a coolant filter like the big rigs now run is a good idea. There is no kit available, but I may rig one up on mine some day. If anyone has done this, I would love to hear about it.
NSTDI
Veteran Member
Thanks for the reply.
x1800MODMY360x
Veteran Member
wsc
Well-known member
I don't remember what the original fill was,, that is where most of the material accumulated, but I have been using the violet colored coolant since the first failure at 60k miles.
eugene89us
Veteran Member
I still see some random particulate contaminants in the expansion tank to this day. I suck them out with a syringe, a few months later they appear like loose tea in a hot tea cup. It may be the leftover junk in the system, but last 2 flushes (oil cooler and timing belt/coolant pump) were replaced with Zerex equivalent to G12++. Local O'Reilly carries it, which makes it convenient. Frankly, I ready to jump to plain G12. It is less protection, but I think far more stable.
lemcc
Member
Just to chime in because I just went through the whole oil temperature bit.
Some backstory - Last April I had the clogged heater core ordeal, after fixing it and the busted heater hose (twice). The oil temps were getting high when interstate cruising. 75 mph on flat land was nettning 230-240 degrees fairly routinely. The other day on a 30 mile interstate track got as high as 248 degrees.
Just replaced the oil cooler/filter housing the other night. Same route where I netted 230+ degrees on demand fairly routinely is now only getting up to about 220 doing 78. Once removed the oil cooler had some noticeable resistance and build up in it. Nothing massive, but for the size of it a little bit of clog makes a fairly significant impact.
The process to replace the oil filter cooler on the CVCA is doable in a day, but it's a bit of a pain just based on the space you have to work and the bolts are TTY bolts, so be sure to get replacements and have a good set of hose picks as all the coolant hoses will be very firmly attached to their metal counterparts. The service manual says it can be down by only removing the radiator fans, but that's a bunch of BS. I wound up removing the radiator as well and was finally able to fit in hose clamps to get things apart. (Radiator is just as easy to remove as the radiator fans. 4 screws and it comes right out the bottom.)
If you are seeing 235+ routinely on the interstate, I would recommend getting your oil filter cooler replaced, and like eveyone else has stated, flush your coolant every 4 years regardless of mileage. Post dieselgate these cars torch the coolant system.
Some backstory - Last April I had the clogged heater core ordeal, after fixing it and the busted heater hose (twice). The oil temps were getting high when interstate cruising. 75 mph on flat land was nettning 230-240 degrees fairly routinely. The other day on a 30 mile interstate track got as high as 248 degrees.
Just replaced the oil cooler/filter housing the other night. Same route where I netted 230+ degrees on demand fairly routinely is now only getting up to about 220 doing 78. Once removed the oil cooler had some noticeable resistance and build up in it. Nothing massive, but for the size of it a little bit of clog makes a fairly significant impact.
The process to replace the oil filter cooler on the CVCA is doable in a day, but it's a bit of a pain just based on the space you have to work and the bolts are TTY bolts, so be sure to get replacements and have a good set of hose picks as all the coolant hoses will be very firmly attached to their metal counterparts. The service manual says it can be down by only removing the radiator fans, but that's a bunch of BS. I wound up removing the radiator as well and was finally able to fit in hose clamps to get things apart. (Radiator is just as easy to remove as the radiator fans. 4 screws and it comes right out the bottom.)
If you are seeing 235+ routinely on the interstate, I would recommend getting your oil filter cooler replaced, and like eveyone else has stated, flush your coolant every 4 years regardless of mileage. Post dieselgate these cars torch the coolant system.