2015 Golf TDI SportWagen S, 6M - Air Conditioning Not Blowing Cold Enough...

JSWThinker

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Low pressure side shows within spec.

I've been reading a few different things about common issues where the AC doesn't blow cold enough on these cars. I did not do a delta on input/output... but I can assure you, not even close.

Is there a known issue that may be more common than another?

Any other thoughts?
Thanks,
Pete
 

Ooga

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Air bubble in the freon is not a thing..at least it the household/commercial area....that i am aware of.

Im really curious about the air in/out temps you are getting. Also, did this problem just start or has it always been this way? I can't comment on common issues with this vehicles A/C but I do work in the industry but not on the vehicle side. I'm always glad to help if i can.
 

JM Popaleetus

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Make sure your car is set to Hot Country. And otherwise, I’d definitely bring it to an AC shop.

My Golf’s AC is definitely strong enough to get uncomfortably cold even after sitting on a muggy 100°+ day.

Nothing compares to my Volvo which I’m pretty sure could freeze ice.
 

740GLE

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could be low on R134a, could be RCV valve and could be hot country no being set, but my guess is the first two.
 

kjclow

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We replaced the compressor in our 10 JSW this summer. Glad we got to it before summer refused to leave the Carolinas.
 

KITEWAGON

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Isn't there some kind of TSB for the RCV valve? If anyone has a reference please post it because I realized that mine is doing the exact same thing. It blows cool but not cold. It just barely, kind of almost keeps up on a typical 85 F summer day in New England. It sounds very similar to what the OP has for an issue. Although I just realized his is a 2015 and mine is a 2014 so its a different platform.
 

oilhammer

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There are just too many to list....
Yes, there is a TSB. The distillation of it is: replace the RCV. In some instances, they get a new compressor, but that is if the poor cooling is accompanied by a noise.

But I agree on the A7 Golfs you need to make sure the Hot Country is coded in the Climate module, evidently some were not coded correctly.
 

JSWThinker

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Thanks for all the replies!

The AC was never "very good" -- but it has gotten much worse.

I can measure delta, but I assure you, nothing like it should be.

I'm interested in the "Hot Country" thing. The car was a 2015 that was bough in 2017 after DieselGate (I sold back my 2014 TDI)... the car came from Colorado (I had it trucked)... and I always wondered if that had anything to do with it. I live in South Florida. ;)

Do I need an ODB-Eleven to to deal with that? Is that really a feasible issue?

@ 85f ambient temp the low side pressure was at the high-side of the range (range is 45-55, mine was 55).

The compressor sounds to be turning on and off... but again, if you guide me, I can triple check and report back.
 

oilhammer

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There are just too many to list....
The compressor has no clutch, so it is always spinning. The RCV controls (via duty cycle) the amount of displacement the compressor has, which varies from 0% to 100%.

All US-spec vehicles will be equipped for both hot and cold climates, if there is a setting or equipment that dictates such, because we have both. Volkswagen does not make "regional" spec cars. Canada may only get cold country, and Mexico may only get hot country, but we get both (if that makes any sense).

You will need an appropriate VAG-capable scan tool to verify the coding of the Climate module. You will also need same for verification of compressor command, duty, and pressure. However, given the now decade+ issue of dealing with RCVs in all kinds of compressors, I would say more than likely that is the source of the issue.

I feel like the process by which the components of the A/C system are manufactured and cleaned before assembly is much to blame, as small particles get lodged in the RCV's tiny orifices and screen, and make it stick not allowing full displacement stroke of the compressor, and thus slow to cool and poor cooling in general. Because most of the time, like 95% of the time, once the car's original RCV (and related manufacturing leftovers trapped within) is replaced, that car's system works fine and will continue to do so.

So again, without overthinking this, scan tool ---> verify coding, check pressure (scan tool pressure, I do not care what a gauge says) and command (if you want, since you really won't know exactly what you are looking at, you can always do a before and after), then replace the RCV.
 

JSWThinker

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The compressor has no clutch, so it is always spinning. The RCV controls (via duty cycle) the amount of displacement the compressor has, which varies from 0% to 100%.
All US-spec vehicles will be equipped for both hot and cold climates, if there is a setting or equipment that dictates such, because we have both. Volkswagen does not make "regional" spec cars. Canada may only get cold country, and Mexico may only get hot country, but we get both (if that makes any sense).
You will need an appropriate VAG-capable scan tool to verify the coding of the Climate module. You will also need same for verification of compressor command, duty, and pressure. However, given the now decade+ issue of dealing with RCVs in all kinds of compressors, I would say more than likely that is the source of the issue.
I feel like the process by which the components of the A/C system are manufactured and cleaned before assembly is much to blame, as small particles get lodged in the RCV's tiny orifices and screen, and make it stick not allowing full displacement stroke of the compressor, and thus slow to cool and poor cooling in general. Because most of the time, like 95% of the time, once the car's original RCV (and related manufacturing leftovers trapped within) is replaced, that car's system works fine and will continue to do so.
So again, without overthinking this, scan tool ---> verify coding, check pressure (scan tool pressure, I do not care what a gauge says) and command (if you want, since you really won't know exactly what you are looking at, you can always do a before and after), then replace the RCV.
Sounds like a great plan. I'm assuming an old fashioned ODB2 tool isn't going to do squat compared to the ODB Eleven, correct?
 

740GLE

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odb eleven and vcds would be the best to invest in.
 

JM Popaleetus

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Good to know that the compressor is always spinning. Now I don’t have to feel guilty about always leaving it on even when it’s colder outside.

Canada may only get cold country, and Mexico may only get hot country, but we get both (if that makes any sense).
Are you sure about this for the MK7?

Mine was originally sold in Florida, and while Hot Country was enabled by default, mine does not have the electric auxiliary heater.
 
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oilhammer

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There are just too many to list....
Good to know that the compressor is always spinning. Now I don’t have to feel guilty about always leaving it on even when it’s colder outside.

Are you sure about this for the MK7?

Mine was originally sold in Florida, and while Hot Country was enabled by default, mine does not have the electric auxiliary heater.
And ALH cars didn't get the Webasto fuel fired heater like the extreme Northern countries had access to. I guess VAG's definition of hot and cold vary, but none of the A7 TDIs got the electric heater, as I assume they felt it was not necessary or (more likely) they were trying to save a few bucks.

But as I said, US spec cars are US spec cars. Period. There is no variation. The cars sold new in Florida are the exact same as the cars sold new in Wisconsin.
 

JM Popaleetus

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...none of the A7 TDIs got the electric heater, as I assume they felt it was not necessary or (more likely) they were trying to save a few bucks.

But as I said, US spec cars are US spec cars. Period. There is no variation. The cars sold new in Florida are the exact same as the cars sold new in Wisconsin.
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=495374

Couple people claimed to have it installed, which is why I asked you, that’s all.
 

RIP TDI

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but none of the A7 TDIs got the electric heater, as I assume they felt it was not necessary or (more likely) they were trying to save a few bucks.
Apparently all A7 TDIs have the 7E6 "Electric Auxiliary Air Heater", but NOT the 9M0 "Auxiliary Heater".

If you're looking for the 7E6 option code on your build STICKER (located underneath the hatch threshold trim panel), you won't find it, since the sticker doesn't list all equipment on your car. The build SHEET does list all equipment codes & descriptions.
 
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JM Popaleetus

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Apparently all A7 TDIs have the 7E6 "Electric Auxiliary Air Heater", but NOT the 9M0 "Auxiliary Heater".

If you're looking for the 7E6 option code on your build STICKER (located underneath the hatch threshold trim panel), you won't find it, since the sticker doesn't list all equipment on your car. The build SHEET does list all equipment codes & descriptions.
I have my factory manifest and I definitely do not have 7E6.
 

RIP TDI

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I have my factory manifest and I definitely do not have 7E6.
Interesting...

My GSW was purchased new in Baltimore and does have 7E6 (near the very bottom of the list). Assuming yours was originally sold in Conn., I can't believe there's that small a regional difference. Yours is a hatchback, right? Could it be HB vs. GSW? A logical explanation eludes me.
 
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JM Popaleetus

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Interesting...

My GSW was purchased new in Baltimore and does have 7E6 (near the very bottom of the list). Assuming yours was originally sold in Conn., I can't believe there's that small a regional difference. Yours is a hatchback, right? Could it be HB vs. GSW? A logical explanation eludes me.
Originally Florida. Hence why I thought it might be a 'Hot Country-only' model.

But apparently that doesn't exist?

Most likely it just comes down to typical VW assembly line randomness.
 

RIP TDI

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I have my factory manifest and I definitely do not have 7E6.
Do you have "7E0: W/o heat accumulator/auxiliary heating" on your sheet?

I'm wondering if the heating hardware is present on all cars in a national market but activated in some and not others, with the build sheet reflecting whether it was activated or not at the factory. That begs the question: is there an activation adaption or long code change in VCDS? Do I remember a post about this a few years ago or is this just wishful thinking?
 

JM Popaleetus

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Here is everything, in order, that is (or could be) relevant to the discussion on my manifest:

8GU - 140A Alternator
0Y4 - Climatic zones: Cold and tropical climatic zones (US).
8Z6 - Engine cooling system: Hot country.
7E0 - Heat accumulator system/auxiliary heater: W/o heat accumulator/auxiliary heating.
9M0 - Auxiliary heater: Without auxiliary/parking heater.
 

oilhammer

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There are just too many to list....
OK so evidently this electric heater is NOT part of the cold country packaging on the A7s, or at least, not on yours.

The "parking" heater is the fuel fired one, Webasto and Ebersbacher are the two big suppliers of these. No US spec Volkswagen after the Vanagon has had one of these available.

ETKA shows two PR codes for the electric heater, 7E6 and 7E0, with 7E6 showing the part number and 7E0 simply stating "not for this model".

It kinds of sounds like the heated seats in older cars. Some had it, as part of a "Cold Weather Package", but it was not specifically part of the Cold weather country buildout, which by default all US spec cars are.

Question is, did anyone at a dealer actually have the ability to line item order that or not. Ordering for the US market has always been spotty.
 
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JM Popaleetus

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I've toyed with the idea of buying the electric heater core off eBay for ~$40 or so and installing it. But I've found the EA288 heats up much faster than the EA189 as intended to the point I can't be bothered.

But looking at this thread and the other, it seems that all GSW's have it while the hatchbacks do not. So I'll submit that as my answer.
 
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RIP TDI

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Here's mine:

8GU - 140A Alternator
0Y4 - Climatic zones: Cold and tropical climatic zones (US)
8Z6 - Engine cooling system: Hot country
7E6 - Heat accumulator system/auxiliary heater: Electric auxiliary air heater
9M0 - Auxiliary heater: Without auxiliary/parking heater
 

740GLE

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what part of this discussion is about AC issues? ;)
 

Ooga

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So again, without overthinking this, scan tool ---> verify coding, check pressure (scan tool pressure, I do not care what a gauge says)
How come you don't care what a gauge set would read? Im not familiar with vehicle specific stuff but in my world we love verifying with gauges. Thanks for whatever education I'm about to receive.
 

oilhammer

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There are just too many to list....
Because that is the output, we want to check the input first. In the input is bad, then you already know the output will be bad.

Plus, and I have to educate the masses at our shop on this repeatedly, every single time you hook gauges up to an automotive A/C system, you've discharged it some. Every. Single. Time. The level of refrigerant just is not that much. The volume to fill the machines hoses and valving inside is not an insignificant percentage of the total volume of refrigerant on so many of these modern cars. And these cars are VERY picky about having the correct charge.

A Civic will be working just fine... if you put gauges on it, just the act of "checking" the pressures... it will no longer work as it was prior. They are THAT sensitive.

The cars in question have a pressure sensor (high side). That value can be monitored via the Climate's data blocks. No need to mess with any gauges for that. If you have exhausted all other control side means, and you still feel like something is not right, but the system IS working, then perhaps as a last ditch diagnostic tool. Otherwise, the only time the service ports get touched is if the system is going to be evacuated and recharged (for whatever reason... we often do this to service something altogether unrelated to the A/C system).
 

Ooga

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Because that is the output, we want to check the input first. In the input is bad, then you already know the output will be bad.
Plus, and I have to educate the masses at our shop on this repeatedly, every single time you hook gauges up to an automotive A/C system, you've discharged it some. Every. Single. Time. The level of refrigerant just is not that much. The volume to fill the machines hoses and valving inside is not an insignificant percentage of the total volume of refrigerant on so many of these modern cars. And these cars are VERY picky about having the correct charge.
A Civic will be working just fine... if you put gauges on it, just the act of "checking" the pressures... it will no longer work as it was prior. They are THAT sensitive.
The cars in question have a pressure sensor (high side). That value can be monitored via the Climate's data blocks. No need to mess with any gauges for that. If you have exhausted all other control side means, and you still feel like something is not right, but the system IS working, then perhaps as a last ditch diagnostic tool. Otherwise, the only time the service ports get touched is if the system is going to be evacuated and recharged (for whatever reason... we often do this to service something altogether unrelated to the A/C system).
Makes complete sense. We have cool little pressure readers we like to use that don't have lines for the same reason on small systems. thanks for the info.
 
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