2015 Golf TDI long crank first start of the day

Nuje

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Feb 11, 2005
Location
Island near Vancouver
TDI
2015 Sportwagen; Golf GLS 2002 (swap from 2L gas); 2016 A3 e-tron
I have noticed a continuing theme among these Forums, "Don't ever complain about the product or engineering or you will be chastised for your remarks"
This is laughably untrue - these forums are FULL of complaints about the engineering of these cars....fragile connectors, disintegrating wiring insulation, early-failure camshafts, failing solenoids on water-pumps (hello CRUA!), DPF failures, inaccessible fasteners, icing intercoolers, model de-contenting, weak spot-welded nuts inside of subframes, etc. etc. etc.

Complain about paying a whopping $35 (vs. the dollar figures you quoted for other cars....many of which are not accessible to anyone with $35 and an internet connection....or go to the EU site where you can pay €8 for an hour) for a factory manual, though....yeah, some "wha...really?!" there might be expected.
 

jrn_stu

Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2023
Location
Croatia
TDI
Audi A3 2.0 tdi
Hi to all.

Been following this topic for a while now.

I own an Audi A3 2.0 tdi (2014/15 - ea288 CRLB)

I have the same problem of a random longer cracking time since I bought it.

Since then, I have changed:
  • the "bad" VVT from the Diagnose Dan video
  • replaced the older battery with the new one
  • replaced the lift pump
  • replaced the cam sensor
Still the problem persists and is happening totally random. Can't find the pattern.
I had weeks, sometimes even a full month with no longer start, and sometimes it does it 2-4 times a week.
Always after a longer stay (at least 8 hours) as it only happens when I go for work or while leaving it.

@Rochbry do you still have longer crakcing time after replacing the CPS?

@everyone_else what else should one do to try to solve this weird problem?

Thanks in advance
 

Rochbry

Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2020
Location
Oshawa, on
TDI
2013 Audi a3 TDI
Hi to all.

Been following this topic for a while now.

I own an Audi A3 2.0 tdi (2014/15 - ea288 CRLB)

I have the same problem of a random longer cracking time since I bought it.

Since then, I have changed:
  • the "bad" VVT from the Diagnose Dan video
  • replaced the older battery with the new one
  • replaced the lift pump
  • replaced the cam sensor
Still the problem persists and is happening totally random. Can't find the pattern.
I had weeks, sometimes even a full month with no longer start, and sometimes it does it 2-4 times a week.
Always after a longer stay (at least 8 hours) as it only happens when I go for work or while leaving it.

@Rochbry do you still have longer crakcing time after replacing the CPS?

@everyone_else what else should one do to try to solve this weird problem?

Thanks in advance
Hey bro. After I replaced the crank position sensor everything returned to normal.
Let us know how it goes.
 

Idk maybe

New member
Joined
Jan 12, 2022
Location
Edmonton
TDI
2015 VW Sportwagen TDI
Hi to all.

Been following this topic for a while now.

I own an Audi A3 2.0 tdi (2014/15 - ea288 CRLB)

I have the same problem of a random longer cracking time since I bought it.

Since then, I have changed:
  • the "bad" VVT from the Diagnose Dan video
  • replaced the older battery with the new one
  • replaced the lift pump
  • replaced the cam sensor
Still the problem persists and is happening totally random. Can't find the pattern.
I had weeks, sometimes even a full month with no longer start, and sometimes it does it 2-4 times a week.
Always after a longer stay (at least 8 hours) as it only happens when I go for work or while leaving it.

@Rochbry do you still have longer crakcing time after replacing the CPS?

@everyone_else what else should one do to try to solve this weird problem?

Thanks in advance
another thing you could to look at is; -> pop your hood -> open any door on your car, but would recommend the drivers door -> go back under your hood and put your hand on your HPFP, you should feel a vibration and it should have an audible high pitch sound

This info was given to me by Humble Mechanic. It is to make sure your fuel system is priming prior to cranking the engine.
 

Ragdude

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 18, 2021
Location
Phx
TDI
2015 VW Golf SEL TDi
I was following this also thinking, how ironic this came up just as my 15 was experiencing this too occasionally. Not even thinking my 12 month old battery could be the culprit, but alas I got lucky(?) and it was a bad battery. Starts like a champ again. Best of luck to those still searching.
 

nokivasara

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 25, 2008
Location
Sweden @ Lat 61N
TDI
Tiguan 4-motion, Golf mk7
Does the ECU look for oil pressure before it allows fuel to be injected?
Seems like this issue has a ton of potential fixes. Our Golf has been starting great since I replaced the lift pump. I think we may still be on the factory battery, there is no notes of it being changed before we bought it in 2020.
 

pedroYUL

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 8, 2011
Location
MI, USA
TDI
2015 Passat CVCA; 2015 GSW CRUA; 2012 wagon CJAA; 2004 wagon BEW
ECU might not be checking for oil pressure before start, but it is trying to get the VVT to a specific value. I believe that is the whole premise of Diagnose Dan at the beginning of this thread. VVT is oil actuated, hence if oil pressure is low, the VVT won't get to position quick enough (at least that's how I understand that).

In any case, my GSW started again with the long cranks. I will have another look at the VVT as it is the old style indeed.
 
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Nuje

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Feb 11, 2005
Location
Island near Vancouver
TDI
2015 Sportwagen; Golf GLS 2002 (swap from 2L gas); 2016 A3 e-tron
Earlier in this thread, someone mentioned turning on ignition, waiting a few seconds, and then cranking the engine (basically, just like cycling the glow plugs).
Ever since I've put myself in the habit of doing that, I never get the long cranking. On the rare occasion where I forget, it's about 50/50 whether I get the longer cranking. It's maybe a 5sec wait (I just wait for the cluster needles to do their sweep) and I'm not sure what exactly the engine might be doing to prevent the long cranking, but seems to be the solution for me.
 

jrn_stu

Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2023
Location
Croatia
TDI
Audi A3 2.0 tdi
another thing you could to look at is; -> pop your hood -> open any door on your car, but would recommend the drivers door -> go back under your hood and put your hand on your HPFP, you should feel a vibration and it should have an audible high pitch sound
Tried it.
It does the high pitch sound and it still cranked for a longer time.

@Rochbry waiting for the CPS change
In the meantime I started testing the CPS output using VCDS as the longer cranking time became more frequent.
Through the Nov and Dec 2022 it happened like 2 or 3 times in total, and now is almost everyday
The CPS reading (IDE04670) starts with the WAITSIG before the cranking, WAITGAP for one input and then GAPFOUND. Link for csv file when it cranked for the longer time.

Earlier in this thread, someone mentioned turning on ignition, waiting a few seconds, and then cranking the engine (basically, just like cycling the glow plugs).
Tried it previously. I always wait for the 3-5 sec.
I also tried the approach of turning the key to first position 2-3 times before the cranking (I guess to prime the lift pump but the pump starts when you start cranking) but it ended up being almost the same. I can hear the lift pump starting when I start cranking.

I hope the CPS change will make it better.
 

pedroYUL

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 8, 2011
Location
MI, USA
TDI
2015 Passat CVCA; 2015 GSW CRUA; 2012 wagon CJAA; 2004 wagon BEW
I didn't touch the VVT yesterday, but instead ran a bunch of tests from the "Basic Settings-04"

Ran the (can't recall the name) crank to cam angle test, passed. Then I did run the fuel transfer pump, with the engine running! ...I didn't know you could run that with the engine running. In any case, I ran the pump for perhaps 15 sec, as I wasn't even sure I was supposed to run that with the engine going.

This morning car started in the least cranking ever!!! I guess this is the proper way to prime the fuel system.
 
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whizznbyu

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Location
Waxhaw, NC
TDI
2015 Golf Sportwagen 6 speed manual. B5 died at 302k miles.
Earlier in this thread, someone mentioned turning on ignition, waiting a few seconds, and then cranking the engine (basically, just like cycling the glow plugs).
Ever since I've put myself in the habit of doing that, I never get the long cranking. On the rare occasion where I forget, it's about 50/50 whether I get the longer cranking. It's maybe a 5sec wait (I just wait for the cluster needles to do their sweep) and I'm not sure what exactly the engine might be doing to prevent the long cranking, but seems to be the solution for me.
This is exactly my experience.
 

pedroYUL

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 8, 2011
Location
MI, USA
TDI
2015 Passat CVCA; 2015 GSW CRUA; 2012 wagon CJAA; 2004 wagon BEW
This is exactly my experience.
Flicking the ignition a couple of times can only accomplish 2 things:
1. In the winter get the glowplugs toasty
2. Make the transfer (lift/in-tank) pump prime the fuel system well

Try priming the "transfer pump" in the basic settings, while the engine is running. Maybe do 30 sec and see if that resolves your issue.

Actually, I recommend anyone that suspects their long crank to be fuel priming derived to try doing this first.
 
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jrn_stu

Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2023
Location
Croatia
TDI
Audi A3 2.0 tdi
2. Make the transfer (lift/in-tank) pump prime the fuel system well
Are you sure that lift pump is being primed by just turning the ignition (first key position) on?

My mechanic said that the lift pump starts just before you start the engine, and you can actually hear it starting just then.
I cant hear the pump when I just turn the ignition on.

Can someone confirm of deny that?
 

pedroYUL

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 8, 2011
Location
MI, USA
TDI
2015 Passat CVCA; 2015 GSW CRUA; 2012 wagon CJAA; 2004 wagon BEW
Can someone confirm of deny that?
I can confirm that. Lift pumps are in the tank of PD engines and newer.

If you disconnect the fuel hose that comes from the tank at the filter and flick the switch, you should collect some volume of fuel. If you don't, then your car need a new pump.
 

jrn_stu

Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2023
Location
Croatia
TDI
Audi A3 2.0 tdi
Thanks for the confirmation.

Thinking about the mechanic change 😅

Even though I already did change my lift pump, I might additionally check if fuel comes out after the ignition.
 

pedroYUL

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 8, 2011
Location
MI, USA
TDI
2015 Passat CVCA; 2015 GSW CRUA; 2012 wagon CJAA; 2004 wagon BEW
Another great cold start today for my GSW.

I strongly suggest to actuate the transfer pump with the engine running, it costs nothing, all you need is a proper scan tool.
 

Nuje

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Feb 11, 2005
Location
Island near Vancouver
TDI
2015 Sportwagen; Golf GLS 2002 (swap from 2L gas); 2016 A3 e-tron
So, just to be sure I have this correct: You have the car running, go to ENGINE - BASIC SETTINGS in VCDS, and there's a "run transfer pump" option?
How long do you run it for? Or does it shut off automatically?

And you only do this once, right? And then it's good "forever" (or probably until next time the fuel system gets opened up, like a fuel filter change or something (?)).
 

pedroYUL

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 8, 2011
Location
MI, USA
TDI
2015 Passat CVCA; 2015 GSW CRUA; 2012 wagon CJAA; 2004 wagon BEW
Yes, but in my experience the function doesn't have a preset amount of time, you can run that pump to your heart's content 😆...or I always stop it sooner.

When I change the fuel filter, I have run the pump, but with the engine off. I did follow someone's recommendation, I think something like a minute.

Here I just did maybe 15 seconds at the most, and the car has started beautiful 2 days in a row.
 

Nuje

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Feb 11, 2005
Location
Island near Vancouver
TDI
2015 Sportwagen; Golf GLS 2002 (swap from 2L gas); 2016 A3 e-tron
Yeah, if I recall correctly, the priming of the fuel system after a filter change involves a couple of different VCDS "basic settings" things.

Edit: idparts.com to the rescue with this page.
 
Joined
Oct 13, 2019
Location
Rancho Cucamonga, CA
TDI
2015 Golf SW TDI SE
Hello everyone,

I have been following this thread since the beginning. I’ve owned my car since May of 2015 and have had the long crank problem since about two years of ownership.
I have noticed that new batteries tend to help, but not for long, and I got into the habit of cycling the key on and off before each start.
About two weeks ago I changed the crank position sensor and I have had a couple of long starts at first, but none since. Weather here in SoCal has swung a lot, so not sure if that has been a factor. Also have an AGM battery that is a few months old.
I’ll hesitantly say that the CPS along with a good quality battery has been the solution for me. I still do have some random hesitation between 2nd and 3rd gear, almost like a delay in the gear change.
I will update the forum if the long crank returns.
 

Rochbry

Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2020
Location
Oshawa, on
TDI
2013 Audi a3 TDI
When I replaced my cps, the mech f'd up and broke the rear main seal housing so I asked them to do the dmf at the same time since the tranny was out. Needless to say the starting and hesitation went away. I used to get shudder in certain gear changes or acceleration. The dmf change seems to have helped.
If anyone is still experiencing long crank times after sitting a day or two, particularly in hot weather, change your cps and see if that does it. Just tell the goofs to go easy when they are freeing the sensor...or you end up like me.
Take care
Bryan
 

Rochbry

Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2020
Location
Oshawa, on
TDI
2013 Audi a3 TDI
Hello everyone,

I have been following this thread since the beginning. I’ve owned my car since May of 2015 and have had the long crank problem since about two years of ownership.
I have noticed that new batteries tend to help, but not for long, and I got into the habit of cycling the key on and off before each start.
About two weeks ago I changed the crank position sensor and I have had a couple of long starts at first, but none since. Weather here in SoCal has swung a lot, so not sure if that has been a factor. Also have an AGM battery that is a few months old.
I’ll hesitantly say that the CPS along with a good quality battery has been the solution for me. I still do have some random hesitation between 2nd and 3rd gear, almost like a delay in the gear change.
I will update the forum if the long crank returns.
I meant to mention, after the repair I had a couple of ridiculously awful stuttery starts. I thought, omg, why did I waste my money on this. After a couple ****ty ones, it was smooth sailing. I'm thinking the computer was learning the new data and finally got it sorted. Let us know if you get even one extended crank this summer. People would love to know if the cps is the silver bullet.
Cheers.
Bryan
 

radiator

Active member
Joined
Oct 7, 2021
Location
poland
TDI
1.6 clha
I had my camshaft sensor replaced but no luck. Winter time (4 months Poland) no long crank. First spring temps like 16 celcius and long crank returned. On the differen forum, user named Crasher adviced me to test rpsm of my starter. He noticed that when long crank appeared rpms where 214 rpms. I disengaged tje injectors and cranked till id recorded 271rpm. He says there should be at least 280 for my 1.6 tdi. So I am seeing my mechanic (he still keeps postponing my visit) next week to see through my starter. I'll keep informu you if it is the cure. But what id annoying me is that why the hell in the winter (low temps below 15 celcius) no long crank.Can starter work better in low temps. I makes no sense. No errors on vcds.
 

jrn_stu

Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2023
Location
Croatia
TDI
Audi A3 2.0 tdi
I'm experiencing the same problem where the longer start is dependent on the outside temp.

Based on my experience (I'm logging each start in the excel file) a bad start generally occurs when temperature is above 12-15 °C (53-60 Freedom units). I'm still trying to pin-point the temperature above which the bad starts start.

I've also seen that, after the first bad start, when I try to start it the every other time, the bad start is more prone to happen when I wait 30-60 secs after the ignition-on position. If I crank it just after the glow-plugs-light coming off, the start is generally much better.

I would say some sensor (temperature or something like that) is the culprit, but I have no knowledge on where to search.

I tested the CPS sensor on many starts and I think its not the problem.
I didn't change it because my mechanic was like, "yeah I dont think that is the problem and I have no knowledge that that could be the cause for the bad starts". I tried to change it at the official audi repair shop but they wanted 250 EUR for the 30-50 EUR part so I said fukk that. I still hold that as potential solution but I guess I will have to find a new mechanic that will want to change it.
 

Rochbry

Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2020
Location
Oshawa, on
TDI
2013 Audi a3 TDI
I had my camshaft sensor replaced but no luck. Winter time (4 months Poland) no long crank. First spring temps like 16 celcius and long crank returned. On the differen forum, user named Crasher adviced me to test rpsm of my starter. He noticed that when long crank appeared rpms where 214 rpms. I disengaged tje injectors and cranked till id recorded 271rpm. He says there should be at least 280 for my 1.6 tdi. So I am seeing my mechanic (he still keeps postponing my visit) next week to see through my starter. I'll keep informu you if it is the cure. But what id annoying me is that why the hell in the winter (low temps below 15 celcius) no long crank.Can starter work better in low temps. I makes no sense. No errors on vcds.
Not camshaft sensor. Crank position sensor. Have you tried that?
 

Rochbry

Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2020
Location
Oshawa, on
TDI
2013 Audi a3 TDI
I'm experiencing the same problem where the longer start is dependent on the outside temp.

Based on my experience (I'm logging each start in the excel file) a bad start generally occurs when temperature is above 12-15 °C (53-60 Freedom units). I'm still trying to pin-point the temperature above which the bad starts start.

I've also seen that, after the first bad start, when I try to start it the every other time, the bad start is more prone to happen when I wait 30-60 secs after the ignition-on position. If I crank it just after the glow-plugs-light coming off, the start is generally much better.

I would say some sensor (temperature or something like that) is the culprit, but I have no knowledge on where to search.

I tested the CPS sensor on many starts and I think its not the problem.
I didn't change it because my mechanic was like, "yeah I dont think that is the problem and I have no knowledge that that could be the cause for the bad starts". I tried to change it at the official audi repair shop but they wanted 250 EUR for the 30-50 EUR part so I said fukk that. I still hold that as potential solution but I guess I will have to find a new mechanic that will want to change it.
When my mechanic was researching mine he said that most likely culprit was the crank position sensor. They have access to Audi mechanics and solutions. The cps hit as a good probability.
I would change it if I were you. Please report back if you do. Good luck.
 
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