2015 A3 CRUA engine timing issue

snakesausage

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I was pulling into a parking lot when the engine started making noise like all of the lifters ticking, I immediately pulled into a spot and killed it. It had no warnings ( oil or any other kind) so I pulled both the obd and engine fault codes and nothing.

I trailered it home and checked the timing. I locked the cam and fuel pump with timing pins and the crank mark is not lined up with the timing mark on the cover. If it jumped time, I would expect the crank mark to be advanced of the timing mark, but this seems like it moved in the opposite direction (see pic). The timing belt looks perfect, although it was riding lined up on the edge of the cam pulley, not centered. The tensioner pointer is barely on the loose side of the notch and the belt feels tight.


I am trying to figure out what head parts need to be ordered, I assume the cam assembly and valves (maybe lifters too?).
 

turbobrick240

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If it was still running when you shut it down, there's a good chance you won't need to order any parts other than a timing belt kit. You should pull the valve cover and take a peek. I suspect you'll discover a bad water pump, and timing belt in worse condition than you thought.
 

snakesausage

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If it was still running when you shut it down, there's a good chance you won't need to order any parts other than a timing belt kit. You should pull the valve cover and take a peek. I suspect you'll discover a bad water pump, and timing belt in worse condition than you thought.
Ok, thanks for the reply. I will go ahead and start disassembly.
 

MrCypherr

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Not uncommon for the water pump to leak. Seen a couple of these. How old is the timing belt and whats the mileage on the car?
 

snakesausage

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Not uncommon for the water pump to leak. Seen a couple of these. How old is the timing belt and whats the mileage on the car?
I pulled everything apart and the water pump is fine, no leaks and the bearing is smooth. I checked all of the rollers and they seem smooth and no wobble. The tensioner pointer was just to the left of the notch about 1/8” and it did have a very slight bit of movement when I pried on it, but the bearing seems good.

The car has 247,000 miles and I changed the timing belt just shy of 130,000, so this belt has about 120,000. The kit came from IDparts so it was all quality components and the water pump was the improved without the shield.

The thing that is bothering me the most is that if the belt jumped, the timing mark on the pulley should have gone the other direction.
 
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pedroYUL

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Wait what? You need to lock the cam and crank, those two need to match, the HPFP is almost irrelevant (it can be a little off).
 

snakesausage

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Wait what? You need to lock the cam and crank, those two need to match, the HPFP is almost irrelevant (it can be a little off).
I first put the crank at TDC and neither the fuel pump or the cam were in the correct location. I then rotated the crank until I could get both timing pins into the fuel pump and the cam. The crank was as seen in the picture, with the crank mark to the left of the timing mark on the cover. which is the wrong direction if the belt slipped, as the crank rotates clockwise.
 
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pedroYUL

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Very strange that you're not getting a crank to cam correlation error. Maybe you just dodged a bullet.
 

snakesausage

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Is the cam sprocket still tight on the shaft? Did it shift to the limit?
It is still tight on the sprocket and there is no indication that the screw holding the adjuster window to the sprocket has moved. Also the arrow on the sprocket when locked with the pin is pointing directly at the number 1 cast on the cam snout, as it should. Also, the fuel pump and the cam are in perfect time. It is only the crank that is out of time, and in the wrong direction one would expect if there was slippage on the cam belt.
 

turbobrick240

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I'm pretty sure it wouldn't have stayed running if it slipped more than 3-4 teeth.
 

turbobrick240

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I'd check the crank pulley/sprocket for tightness.
 

MrCypherr

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These engines would not survive if it skipped that many teeth. The fact that its still running or runs means its most likely saveable and nothing broke.
 

pedroYUL

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1 tooth off creates a long cranking, and cam/crank correlation error in a CVCA...ask me how I know.
 
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turbobrick240

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If it's off by 4 teeth on the crank pulley, it'll be off by 2 teeth on the cam pulley. I think that's about the max where it would continue to run.
 

snakesausage

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Thanks for all of the comments. I will check the crank pulley tightness and alignment when I do the front main oil seal.
 

Garrison

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If you've already torn it down, check the crank sprocket - there's a video I posted a little while ago showing how the crank sprocket can round a bit in the corner and slip the whole assembly (which I think I'm also encountering, just haven't dug into it to fix it yet)
 
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