2014 JSW - Air filter / intake & tune?

[captaintofuburger]

Hey guys, wow been a while since I've been here. I have a 2014 JSW I just took in for an oil change at the dealer, just hit 70k on it. Is my SOs car, so it's a DSG. Air filter was shot, declined getting it done at the dealer since normally I just go out and get an AFE filter. After looking around, I'm reading a lot of mixed reviews on either the filter or the intake setup (although, also mixed if this fits a wagon or not?) https://afepower.com/afe-power-54-81711-magnum-force-stage-2-si-pro-5r-cold-air-intake-system

I'm generally not one to care much for such setups, but I plan on keeping this car another 600k. Been massively diligent on maintenance. Anyways, kinda have some open ended questions since I haven't worked on any TDIs since my PD.

Going with that, since this is a dieselgate, I was looking at tunes which seem to have some advantages other than just power. I live in a very cold climate, so things like the longer glow plug time would be really nice. I know a few times this year I had to play the cycle the glow plug game to get it to fire up. I've anecdotally been told by the service managers at the dealer that "the cleanest engine mk6 TDIs seen are the ones that have deletes".

This was a CPO, but that warranty is up, so I'm just riding on the emissions warranty, where the only thing I would care about is the fuel system. That was a big debate for me when looking for a TDI, going GSW or JSW, time hand not told if one would be great like the old PD motors or a massive problem child, obviously rolled the dice on a JSW.

Read a decent amount on Kerma tunes and Malone. Will opt out of the egr nonsense and just leave that in place, don't really understand why people feel the need to delete these on modern cars anyways. With a DPF delete, is there any advantage to removing it as well?

Related to that, since I'm still under warranty, but also don't really care, unless I have some made fuel issue, I don't want to get denied. I believe even with Kermas Q tuner or whatever, thats still going to trip the flash count in the ECU I would imagine. Anyone have any insight on what has happened with a tune as far as warranty work goes? The ECU is one thing, I mean... if I really wanted to I could just swap it, tune that, then swap the original back in before service. However, this won't help with the DSG tune.

Just looking for some input I guess. Any info would be appreciated. Basically I'm just looking to keep this thing on the road as long as I can, if I can squeeze a little fuel economy out of it that would be awesome as well. Not trying to make a 10 second car, dsg sucks at double clutching anyways.

 

[Mozambiquer]

Read the sticky thread on those intakes in this section. They're a big waste of money and cause more problems than they fix (they fix zero problems and create some that weren't there to start with)
If you plan to keep the car for a long time, your best bet is to put a fresh oem filter in and running it.
Any tune will void the warranty. So either go with a tune and forgo warranty or keep the warranty and forgo the tune until its up.
I've seen a stock emissions system go over 300k miles on a TDI, but it was driven long distances. Keep clean 507 rated oil in it (extremely low ash oil to prevent ash buildup in the DPF)
Change the fuel filter at least every 20k miles being sure to use a VW scan tool to activate the auxiliary pump to properly prime the fuel system afterwards, and add some standyne diesel additive to increase the lubricity for the cp4 pump.

 

[captaintofuburger]

Read the sticky thread on those intakes in this section. They're a big waste of money and cause more problems than they fix (they fix zero problems and create some that weren't there to start with)
If you plan to keep the car for a long time, your best bet is to put a fresh oem filter in and running it.
Any tune will void the warranty. So either go with a tune and forgo warranty or keep the warranty and forgo the tune until its up.
I've seen a stock emissions system go over 300k miles on a TDI, but it was driven long distances. Keep clean 507 rated oil in it (extremely low ash oil to prevent ash buildup in the DPF)
Change the fuel filter at least every 20k miles being sure to use a VW scan tool to activate the auxiliary pump to properly prime the fuel system afterwards, and add some standyne diesel additive to increase the lubricity for the cp4 pump.

Excellent sounds good, ordering up some Mann filters. Yes I run 507 since the day I got it. Fuel filter has been done, but 20k seems pretty low to me, but they are cheap enough and I have an extra on hand, so may as well replace it. Only thing in that list I don't do or haven't heard of is standyne, will read into that as well. Thanks for the tips!

 

[Mozambiquer]

Excellent sounds good, ordering up some Mann filters. Yes I run 507 since the day I got it. Fuel filter has been done, but 20k seems pretty low to me, but they are cheap enough and I have an extra on hand, so may as well replace it. Only thing in that list I don't do or haven't heard of is standyne, will read into that as well. Thanks for the tips!

20k is actually on the higher side. Many people change them at 10-15k miles. A diesel is a lot different than a gas car on that. I change the fuel filters on my passats at 15k miles. The reason is that diesel is an oil, whereas gasoline is a solvant. The fuel system relies on the diesel to lubricate it, so it has to be perfectly clean.
A very important step is bleeding the fuel system correctly though as on those with the cp4 pump, air is its enemy. A lot of people on forums or Facebook say "I've never bled the fuel system and my car is fine" and yeah, it most often doesn't blow the cp4 up right away, though it can, but each time air gets in, it causes just a little bit more preventable wear which snowballs until the next thing you know, you need a $7000 fuel system.

 

[tjg]

20k is actually on the higher side. Many people change them at 10-15k miles.

Interesting, this is the first I've heard of people doing it earlier than the factory specs. Makes sense though.

 

[captaintofuburger]

20k is actually on the higher side. Many people change them at 10-15k miles. A diesel is a lot different than a gas car on that. I change the fuel filters on my passats at 15k miles. The reason is that diesel is an oil, whereas gasoline is a solvant. The fuel system relies on the diesel to lubricate it, so it has to be perfectly clean.
A very important step is bleeding the fuel system correctly though as on those with the cp4 pump, air is its enemy. A lot of people on forums or Facebook say "I've never bled the fuel system and my car is fine" and yeah, it most often doesn't blow the cp4 up right away, though it can, but each time air gets in, it causes just a little bit more preventable wear which snowballs until the next thing you know, you need a $7000 fuel system.

Oh I read that wrong. I change my oil every 10k, I thought you were saying standyne every 20k. I guess I'm not sure how often you're supposed to use it, haven't had a chance to look into it yet. Got filters ordered that's about it so far.

And yeah, diesel has much more issue for potential over gas. I have tons of VAG tools, so bleeding shouldn't be a issue. I would bet my KW450 can even do it, nice little cheap quick tool. Otherwise I have VCDS, a VAS6051, or a Think Diag which I would imagine should support the bleed as well.

Edit: Actually 15k I think is when my interval light is set now that I think about it. I remember seeing the settings when I was programming last, wasn't going to change that so I don't recall. Wanted to bump up the run time on the defroster. Again, cold climate, thing shuts off way too early. Bumped it up by another 1/3rd.

 

[Escape.idiocracy]

Read the sticky thread on those intakes in this section. They're a big waste of money and cause more problems than they fix (they fix zero problems and create some that weren't there to start with)
If you plan to keep the car for a long time, your best bet is to put a fresh oem filter in and running it.

I have had this logic imbedded since I first came onto this forum- and back in 2000-2005 it made sense, primarily higher flow filters were oiled, and havoc was made on the map sensors… dry filters have come a long way in their ability to flow and filter…

you might find this video interesting. I personally think it answers many who question the claims of “power gained.”

mid aay anyone looking to go stage 2+ on a CR would benefit from a dry filter for the reasons covered in this video…. It smooths out many of the power dips.
Take it or leave it

for the sake of conversation-we have 6 actively driven diesels in our house- 4 of which still have cp4 pumps. We run hotshot EDT in all of them each fillup. The 1-3 oz needed per tank (tank sizes vary from 13-38 gal….) might sound dumb, but the container is what started the use….My daily driver TDI sees roughly 20 more miles per tank…. So gains are minimal. Collectively 400k? Miles since use and knock on wood no grenaded pumps.

 

[Mozambiquer]

I have had this logic imbedded since I first came onto this forum- and back in 2000-2005 it made sense, primarily higher flow filters were oiled, and havoc was made on the map sensors… dry filters have come a long way in their ability to flow and filter…

you might find this video interesting. I personally think it answers many who question the claims of “power gained.”

mid aay anyone looking to go stage 2+ on a CR would benefit from a dry filter for the reasons covered in this video…. It smooths out many of the power dips.
Take it or leave it

for the sake of conversation-we have 6 actively driven diesels in our house- 4 of which still have cp4 pumps. We run hotshot EDT in all of them each fillup. The 1-3 oz needed per tank (tank sizes vary from 13-38 gal….) might sound dumb, but the container is what started the use….My daily driver TDI sees roughly 20 more miles per tank…. So gains are minimal. Collectively 400k? Miles since use and knock on wood no grenaded pumps.

I've seen that video, but what it doesn't show is 1000 miles down the road when the performance slowly starts to fade off more and more. Or also the dust that it allows in which blasts the internals of the engine. And with the cost of one of those filters, its not even remotely worth it in my opinion.

 

[Escape.idiocracy]

I've seen that video, but what it doesn't show is 1000 miles down the road when the performance slowly starts to fade off more and more. Or also the dust that it allows in which blasts the internals of the engine. And with the cost of one of those filters, its not even remotely worth it in my opinion.

That is your opinion, and that’s fine I was just sharing.
I have run S&B filters and intake systems on my side by side since 2019? It’s done a few DP4 races….. inside of the intake tube has never shown dust film, and that’s through the worst silt imaginable.

I do understand your point though as “most” high flow filters allow for a larger particle to pass…. Though many tests have been done and conclude the dirtier the filter the better the filtration… which makes sense- but not in a way most want it to…

I just sent in an oil analysis, my birthdays coming up- I’ll order one and send in another Analysis and we will compare.