2014 Jetta key in the ignition will not turn

Rider_02

New member
Joined
Mar 1, 2018
Location
Langdon Alberta Canada
TDI
2003 Bora TDI
I have a 2014 Jetta, I put the key in the ignition and it won’t turn. It is not because of the steering wheel lock, I turn the wheel to take pressure off the lock pin, it still won’t turn. I was able to jiggle the key and get it to turn and start the car, but every time I turn the ignition off and try to re start it is the same problem. Is this common? Can I just replace the lock cylinder in the ignition? So far I have been lucky an able to jiggle just the right way that I can turn the key and start the car, but it is getting more difficult to get it to turn.
Thanks for any insight
 

dmp

Active member
Joined
Jan 18, 2015
Location
Toronto
TDI
15 Golf, 13 Golf (for sale)
common problem - it's the steering lock mechanism that binds up. Your ignition cylinder most likely isn't the cause (can verify that by removing the cylinder itself and see if it turns freely).



The part isn't coded to the car so just have to strip the column down a bit and get the shear bolts off (get new ones). Bolt it all back up and you should be good



Believe the part number is 1K0 905 851 B but have to verify for your specific car
 

JELLOWSUBMARINE

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 3, 2014
Location
yes
TDI
2011 Jetta Sportwagen, 6M, red/tan, navi, pano, 83 5m diesel pickup, 82 p/u trailer,.04 5.5 TDI Passat wagon (gone), 80,81,82 diesel p/u (gone), 80,82 sportruck (gone), 59 passthru bus (long gone), 79&87 westy (gone), 57 baja bug (long gone), 73 914
Auto or manual? As weird as it sounds the auto shifter could be "bumped" out of park slightly...

as dumb as it sounds it happened to me on a Volvo.
 

oilhammer

Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
Joined
Dec 11, 2001
Location
outside St Louis, MO
TDI
There are just too many to list....
Common problem, dealer stocks the housing. Fix it before your key cylinder (which is VIN specific) gets stuck in there and you have to order one of those too!

Also, there are some very specific details on changing that part. If you do not have access to proper tools or skills or information to tackle this yourself, let someone who does go after it.

I do a boatload of these:



This is just from the last couple months.
 
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JELLOWSUBMARINE

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 3, 2014
Location
yes
TDI
2011 Jetta Sportwagen, 6M, red/tan, navi, pano, 83 5m diesel pickup, 82 p/u trailer,.04 5.5 TDI Passat wagon (gone), 80,81,82 diesel p/u (gone), 80,82 sportruck (gone), 59 passthru bus (long gone), 79&87 westy (gone), 57 baja bug (long gone), 73 914
Common problem, dealer stocks the housing. Fix it before your key cylinder (which is VIN specific) gets stuck in there and you have to order one of those too!
Do you know the VIN number range? I just bought a 2011 JSW...

I used to maintain a fleet of City cop cars. Years back when the new Crown Vics first required the brake pedal to be depressed before being able to put in drive, a few of the, shall we say, "lesser thinking" would destroy a similar looking part. We found it to be based on the fact it was trying to get the @!%!! out of park (minus the brake depress). the weak point shall break.

Any similarity's?

P.S. I think the TDI community owes oilhammer a some other regular posters a big thanks for their consistant & dedicated help
 

oilhammer

Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
Joined
Dec 11, 2001
Location
outside St Louis, MO
TDI
There are just too many to list....
All of the A5 and NCS cars, but the early A5s (like 2005-06) seem to not have this problem, or at least I have never run across it. But 2008+ it is painfully common.

So yes, your 2011 wagon would fall into this category, unfortunately. :eek:

The replacements are a different manufacturer, not sure if that has anything to do with the issue or not. As in, did they discover a problem and switch, or is it just a case of which plant the cars came from.

If you or anyone wants to try and do this yourself, I will post some pointers here that may make it easier.
 

timsch

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 12, 2009
Location
Brookside Village, Texas
TDI
2003 Mk4 Jetta (blue), 2003 Mk4 Jetta (black), 2011 Mk6 Jetta, all manuals
All of the A5 and NCS cars, but the early A5s (like 2005-06) seem to not have this problem, or at least I have never run across it. But 2008+ it is painfully common.

So yes, your 2011 wagon would fall into this category, unfortunately. :eek:
...
If you or anyone wants to try and do this yourself, I will post some pointers here that may make it easier.
Revival post.

I have a 2011 Jetta that is having this problem. I would appreciate the pointers, OH. Thanks.
 

oilhammer

Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
Joined
Dec 11, 2001
Location
outside St Louis, MO
TDI
There are just too many to list....
The NCS is an easier one, because they do not have the Steering Column Module underneath the combination switches.

Disconnect the battery.

Slide the steering column all the way out towards the driver, and down.

Unclip the airbag, and carefully unplug it and remove it.

Remove the steering wheel... there is a punch mark on the splines underneath the bolt, make note of it.... and take the wheel off while the wheels are in the straight ahead position.

Do NOT bump or move the clock spring, there will be two tabs at 3 and 9, connector at the top. Make sure it stays that way.

Pop the upper clamshell cover off the column, starting at the joint that was covered by the steering wheel, pop it up and I tape it up out of the way on top of the dash board or pop it off the bottom of the cluster completely (there are different versions).

Remove three Torx screws... two at the top beneath the edge of the upper cover you just removed, one down low in a slot near the column adjustment lever. You'll need the key out to remove this lower cover, be sure the grommet around the key hole stays put (if your car is cursed with the push button start, you won't have that).

Depending on which version, the clock spring can be clipped on, or sometimes a small Torx screw is used in addition to the clips. Unplug the electrical connectors in the bottom... again, depending on equipment you may have one or two connectors (steering wheel controls).

Carefully remove the clock spring... DO NOT turn it! Set it aside (I always place it up on the middle of the dash out of the way).

Unplug the switches, there will be between three and four connectors. They do not all go in at the same angle.

You can leave the wire connector on the transponder ring around the lock cylinder in place for now if you cannot get it to come unplugged and go under the bracket, just pop the stay on that wire loose further in on the metal column frame to give it some slack for later.

Using a sharp center punch and a hammer, loosen the two breakaway screws from the switch/frame assembly that bolts it all to the column. They typically come loose easily, and you can spin them around and out with that punch.

Slide the assembly off, you'll have to unlock the steering lock pawl with the key. Then you'll be able to unplug and fish the wire out from the transponder ring connector if you were not able to do so before.

Now you have to unclip the plastic switch frame from the housing, two little tabs and it slides apart. Study it for a minute before you try prying on anything, once you see how it is assembled, it's pretty simple but at first it looks like a puzzle.

.... this all assumed that your existing key still works and turns and comes out of the cylinder. If it does NOT, then you may need some strategic wiggling, cursing, cutting, just depends...

To put the new cylinder in the new housing: you only get one chance, as it is a double catch inside. You use a paperclip bent straight or something similar in the little hole in the cylinder to hold the little curved lock tang in while you slide the cylinder into the housing until it seats... make sure the little twisty tab is lined up correctly (do NOT mess with the housing!!!) Slide the paper clip and and work the key back to make sure it all works correctly.

Then reverse procedure to put it back together, I use 5mm Allen pan head screws in place of those stupid breakaway bolts, locally available (I get mine from Fastenall). They needn't be crazy tight.
 

timsch

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 12, 2009
Location
Brookside Village, Texas
TDI
2003 Mk4 Jetta (blue), 2003 Mk4 Jetta (black), 2011 Mk6 Jetta, all manuals
Thanks for the instructions - much appreciated.

I did find a video that showed the disassembly & reassembly of this housing. @ 5:10 he shows the broken piece causing the problem. A number of comments noted the same piece. He just removed this piece and reassembled - no statement on what the piece is from or whether it was significant in any way.

Is this an option that you'd think is OK?
 

timsch

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 12, 2009
Location
Brookside Village, Texas
TDI
2003 Mk4 Jetta (blue), 2003 Mk4 Jetta (black), 2011 Mk6 Jetta, all manuals
OH, Great instructions. The tip on using the sharp centerpunch and hammer worked great. I never would have thought of that.

I'm having trouble getting the ignition to release. I'm using a length of 18ga wire and it is inserting 1-1/8", but nothing is giving. I've seen a video where the guy mentioned a click - I hear nothing. The ChittyChitty video on it shows a lever being depressed, but I'm feeling nothing like a spring load on the wire. Any tips?

That being said, I was able to put some silicon fluid on the steering lock mechanism that pops up. It's very smooth now having cycled it multiple times, with no binding like I was having frequently. While I tried lubing the ignition before, none of that would have made it back to the steering lock mechanism. I'd say it was just dry and should be good now, not feeling broken, but my experience is nothing compared to yours. At what point would you recommend replacement?
 

oilhammer

Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
Joined
Dec 11, 2001
Location
outside St Louis, MO
TDI
There are just too many to list....
I'm not sure what you mean by "at what point would you recommend replacement". I thought you were already to that point.
 

timsch

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 12, 2009
Location
Brookside Village, Texas
TDI
2003 Mk4 Jetta (blue), 2003 Mk4 Jetta (black), 2011 Mk6 Jetta, all manuals
Yeah, the question is a little vague. I didn't know if this is the type of part that once it starts binding, it will continue to go downhill. All I saw in vids was metal parts to that, so I assume not.

I went ahead and lubed the wheel lock mechanism and put it back together yesterday. Seemed to go well enough, although I haven't driven it yet. I'll keep an eye on it and take it apart again if necessary. It'll be easy enough the 2nd time.
Well, easy enough if I can get the ignition cylinder out of the housing. I was not able to get mine to release with the wire inserted into the aligned hole....

I was very careful about the clock spring as you cautioned, until i wasn't.... Putting the clamshell backtogether yesterday, I had a lapse and the clock spring mechanism rotated 90 degrees CCW during that :oops:!!. Nothing sprung that I could tell. I rotated it back into position and put the steering wheel back on.

So at what point has someone screwed up with the clock spring? Does it come apart and become a PITA to put back together, or something else?

Thanks again for the tips.
 

oilhammer

Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
Joined
Dec 11, 2001
Location
outside St Louis, MO
TDI
There are just too many to list....
So I always put a NEW cylinder housing with a NEW lock cylinder in together, I never do one or the other, so rarely have to take them apart unless the key is stuck in there. I'm not sure what you did here.

If the SRS light is on when you're done, you broke the clockspring.
 
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