2013 Passat CKRA TB Cam Sprocket slipped in slots

[Tickletime]

Hello all, just joined and my first post here.
Recently bought a non running 2013 Passat TDI . Serpentine belt was thrown off, Battery was drained, then frozen in very cold temps bulging and destroying it. Needless to say I bought it without ability to power it up. Car was cheap enough that it leaves room for cost of replacement Engine if required. There is one available in my area.
Carfax maintenance is sporadic and doesn't show timing belt done, oils changes seemed fairly regular though, car is at 186k Kms.
Figured the Serpentine belt let go, taking out the Timing Belt and wrecking the Valves. But as I disassembled the TB seem intact and tight with good tension. Moror turns freely by hand with socket on Crankshaft.
Looking at the Cam Sprocket, the 3 bolts in the slots were loose enough to allow Sprocket to shift end of slots, throwing out the Cam timing enough for car not to run properly I'm guessing. Also the 3 bolts were quite loose, guessing less than 10 ft/lbs force to loosen them.
I have ordered the Dieselgeek timing tool set but hasn't arrived yet, but with Cranshaft indicator at TDC as best as I can eyeball, it looks like the Cam sprocket pin and HPFP pin holes are very close to lining up. I can't see any damage to TB or debris that would have caused the belt to jump teeth.

Question; Can the sprocket slot movement on the 3 bolts be enough to get valve interference?

 

[Tickletime]

Ok, was able to double check crank at TDC and sprocket and HPFP pin holes line up properly with the 3 bolts at the one end of the sprocket slots. So thinking somebody did the TB and got the Cam Sprocket off by 1 cog and made up for with the slots. Will re-do the TB when kit arrives and set up properly. Fingers crossed the everything is ok but I can't see any reason for valve interference even though the TB isn't done properly.

 

[drew_t]

Good luck with it.

 

[Mozambiquer]

Ok, was able to double check crank at TDC and sprocket and HPFP pin holes line up properly with the 3 bolts at the one end of the sprocket slots. So thinking somebody did the TB and got the Cam Sprocket off by 1 cog and made up for with the slots. Will re-do the TB when kit arrives and set up properly. Fingers crossed the everything is ok but I can't see any reason for valve interference even though the TB isn't done properly.

It doesn't matter where the bolts are on the sprocket, just that the pins are lined up. That's the purpose for those slots, to allow the cam to be lined up correctly.

 

[Tickletime]

It doesn't matter where the bolts are on the sprocket, just that the pins are lined up. That's the purpose for those slots, to allow the cam to be lined up correctly.

Thanks Fellas, Just waiting for all the parts to show up now.

 

[Tickletime]

Well I have replaced the defective serpentine tensioner and belt. Over running clutch on alternator was seized and replaced. Replaced the timing belt that was still within timing with a new kit using proper timing belt tools and pins. Replaced fuel filter and engine oil and filter.
Fuel filter bowl was filled with fuel and I cycled the start button numerous times to make sure the fuel system had purged with tank pump.
Engine cranks but does not catch at all. Tried 4 or 5 times. Only code it throws is low battery / voltage from when the old battery was frozen. Cleared that code.
I only have a cheap OBDII scan tool so my diagnostics is limited.
I'm positive there wasn't any valve damage as timing belt was still in rig, check using tools, New Belt rigged as well.
What should I look at next?

 

[Tickletime]

Only codes I can get with this scan tool I have is ($7E8) and ($7E9), which indicated ECM problem or sensor issue. Since the fuel pressure sensor is a problem with these cars, maybe that?
Feed line from tank delivers lots of flow and pressure, sprayed myself when checking it lol.

 

[Mozambiquer]

Well I have replaced the defective serpentine tensioner and belt. Over running clutch on alternator was seized and replaced. Replaced the timing belt that was still within timing with a new kit using proper timing belt tools and pins. Replaced fuel filter and engine oil and filter.
Fuel filter bowl was filled with fuel and I cycled the start button numerous times to make sure the fuel system had purged with tank pump.
Engine cranks but does not catch at all. Tried 4 or 5 times. Only code it throws is low battery / voltage from when the old battery was frozen. Cleared that code.
I only have a cheap OBDII scan tool so my diagnostics is limited.
I'm positive there wasn't any valve damage as timing belt was still in rig, check using tools, New Belt rigged as well.
What should I look at next?

Get vcds. Using a cheap OBD code reader is useless for diagnostics on these.

 

[Tickletime]

Yes, figured that much. Guess I'll be ordering one up.

 

[Tickletime]

Picked up a VCDS and did initial scan, Besides a bunch of 0010 (low voltage) codes,
Engine has 3 codes;
P0104 Intermittent Mass air flow sensor
P2185 Engine coolant temp sensor on radiator outlet, signal too high.
P4114 Camshaft Position sensor, Malfunction, Intermittent.

I had to borrow a windows laptop to run VCDS and since I'm a mac guy, and am having trouble attaching the Auto Scan, but the above is the readout.
I have replaced timing belt, and double checked with proper tools, checked crank and cam sensors while cranking and getting 240 / 120 rpm on those. Cam sensor code hasn't re appeared, Glow plug indicator just illuminates before start attempt then goes out, doesn't flash,
Pulled HPFP metering valve to look for any metal contamination, it's clean. Primed fuel system with VCDS for a couple minutes. When cranking rail pressure is up to 300,000.
Purchased a diesel compression test kit and am not getting enough compression to read on test gauge. Pulled the valve cover off and can't see anything wrong, no broken hold down brackets or rocker arms, cam gears seem fine.
The car cranks quite freely so the no compression seems to have confirmed my fears.
Should I tear head off to investigate further or just start sourcing a donor engine?

 

[Tickletime]

Put it all back together on top end again, Engine cranks like the Glow Plugs are removed. The starter should labor more than it does.
Think I'll swap out engine, there is a couple options locally.