If you're thinking of trade-in value, "I dunno, something was malfunctioning before, and it is fixed now." But a Toyota dealer won't be able to see old codes.I assume that even if I am able to keep the check engine light off that a dealer is going to be able to see the recent codes?
Dealerships will be highly variable on trade-in inspections. Some will just basically check the mileage and for obvious body damage. Others will give it a more thorough examination.I assume that even if I am able to keep the check engine light off that a dealer is going to be able to see the recent codes?
Where would I look for a good video or instructions on the thermostat replacement if I were to DIY?
Again, thank you all for your input. It's made me go back and rethink my original position and approach.
Obviously not a TDI guru. My independent has never made those kind of comments about anything I bring in to him.The real eye opener is when my indy mechanic said something to the effect of "I don't like these cars, we keep seeing issues like this just out of warranty and I wouldn't keep it if it was mine. "
Hello, long time lurker, first time poster here.
I have had a 2012 JSW TDI for about 5 years now with few issues other than the dreaded sunroof leak.
I am now approaching 130,000 miles and received the following diagnosis from a VW dealer after my check engine light came on (solid,not flashing):
- thermostat failure
- DPF failure (needs replacement, failed the soot in pipe test)
- p2002 code
- missing a bolt on the turbo
- leak on turbo piping that needs repair
- misc suspension maintenance including front wheel bearings and bushings
Also, at 130,000 I need the timing belt service.
I just exited the warranty at 126,000.
The value of these repairs and maintenance exceed the value of the car and if I take the dealers pricing at face value are almost double the value of the car.
I am in an emissions check area so can’t do a DPF delete and the car won’t pass emissions as is.
Now the rub.
I think the reason the check engine light is on is because the car won’t regen because it can’t get to temp (dash gauge indicates 180 or below typically).
Yesterday I was able to get the temp up to 190 and hold it there and drive for 15-20 or so minutes. When I turned the car back on the check engine light was off. This required holding the car a gear below where it wanted to be to generate enough heat which isn’t sustainable obviously.
So….should I roll the dice and DIY or shop repair the thermostat and turbo? I have a quote from an independent shop to do the thermostat for around $800. Or is this just throwing good money after bad?
I am likely separating-from this car and likely VW vehicles that aren’t under warranty either way. I’m just trying to maximize my value for resale or trade-in basically.
I think you're right! There are no "free rides", except DIY if you have the expertise, the tools, and the time. I use my dealer. They're the closest shop to me, by a large margin, and it seems they have very good mechanics. If "oilhammer" was in my area, of course that's where I'd go. But as far as I know I don't have an oilhammer near me.The independent mechanic prices I have above are quite competitive for my area based on calls to multiple shops.
Best advice for OP was earlier -- make the cheapest repairs to clear CELs and trade it in. Parting out would be horrible, as someone else could repair it and keep it on the road.I feel for you man, but unfortunately your car isn't worth squat with all these repairs needed. I would just part it out if I were you. Even an experienced mechanic who can do all these repairs themselves is looking at thousands in parts.
My experiance with VW is they dont share repair history between dealerships (unlike many other makes).Best advice for OP was earlier -- make the cheapest repairs to clear CELs and trade it in. Parting out would be horrible, as someone else could repair it and keep it on the road.