I have a 2012 TDI Jetta and it appears I have to replace the brake pads. I have replaced on my previous vehicles and first time here. Any suggestions on which pads to buy (suggestions on where to buy also appreciated)and if I need any special tools. All help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks you in advance for your help....
2012 Jetta TDI Sedan Brakes Need Help
- Thread starter nesgarcia
- Start date
JaredC01
Veteran Member
Dunno on the pads / etc. but I'm about 98% sure you'll need a set of triple-square bits.
CDN TDI
Veteran Member
Front Caliper
Carrier Bolt: 21mm Hex, 140 ft/lbs
Caliper Bolt: T47, 30 Nm, 22 ft/lbs
Bleeder Screw: 11mm
Front Pads
5C0 615 115A
Rear Caliper
Carrier Bolt: 14mm 12 point/Triple-square, 90 Nm + 90°
Caliper Bolt: 13mm/19mm, 35 Nm, 25.8 ft/lbs
Bleeder Screw: 11mm
Rear Pads
1K0 615 415R
Use silicone based high temperature grease caliper grease.
Use a piston retraction tool for the rear caliper. You can't just push it back in with a C-clamp. See image below.
Carrier Bolt: 21mm Hex, 140 ft/lbs
Caliper Bolt: T47, 30 Nm, 22 ft/lbs
Bleeder Screw: 11mm
Front Pads
5C0 615 115A
Rear Caliper
Carrier Bolt: 14mm 12 point/Triple-square, 90 Nm + 90°
Caliper Bolt: 13mm/19mm, 35 Nm, 25.8 ft/lbs
Bleeder Screw: 11mm
Rear Pads
1K0 615 415R
Use silicone based high temperature grease caliper grease.
Use a piston retraction tool for the rear caliper. You can't just push it back in with a C-clamp. See image below.
detroitmike
Veteran Member
How many miles on that 2012? Brakes already?
Victor Ward
Well-known member
What a bunch of A-holes! (who ever VW sourced the calipers from)Front Caliper
Carrier Bolt: 21mm Hex, 140 ft/lbs
Caliper Bolt: T47, 30 Nm, 22 ft/lbs
Bleeder Screw: 11mm
Front Pads
5C0 615 115A
Rear Caliper
Carrier Bolt: 14mm 12 point/Triple-square, 90 Nm + 90°
Caliper Bolt: 13mm/19mm, 35 Nm, 25.8 ft/lbs
Bleeder Screw: 11mm
Rear Pads
1K0 615 415R
Use silicone based high temperature grease caliper grease.
Use a piston retraction tool for the rear caliper. You can't just push it back in with a C-clamp. See image below.
Three different head types most of them uncommon.
Can the pistons be pressed in by hand with the bleed valve open?
I suppose it doesn't matter, after running around buying all the new gizmos you need just to remove the calipers what's the cost of another special tool?
And wow! 140ft lbs will be an uncomfortable torque with the car up on a jack and stand.
CDN TDI
Veteran Member
Sorry if I mislead you. The image is meant as general representation of a piston retraction tool. I can't remember which size adapter is required. I have a master set with 21 adapters and just find the match when I perform the work.
The price range for the tool is quite wide. You can find adequate solutions for as little as $8 up to several hundred dollars. I believe that a single VW purpose retraction tool could be had for around $20 or $30.
The rear pistons cannot be pressed back with the bleeder open. The pistons must be rotated and pushed back simultaneously, hence the design of the retraction tool.
The tool is a very worthwhile investment. It will save you the hundreds of dollars that would be spent on a dealership brake job. And you will be able to service your vehicle any time of the day, and not wait for the service shop to open.
I provided torque specs for the entire caliper assembly, however, the carriers do not require removal if the only the pads are replaced. 140ft lbs will not be an issue whether the vehicle is on a lift or stands. Carrier bolts are torqued to this range and all vehicles. You will not have any difficulty achieving this torque spec.
chaoscreature
Veteran Member
http://www.harborfreight.com/18-piece-disc-brake-pad-and-caliper-service-tool-kit-69053.html
They used to have a cheaper one too, but I don't see it now. Good tool to have as almost all rear calipers need to be "screwed" back in.
They used to have a cheaper one too, but I don't see it now. Good tool to have as almost all rear calipers need to be "screwed" back in.
STLvwConvert
Active member
DSG or 6M tranny?
I ask b/c I have a 6M and downshift to take it easier on the brakes.
cevans
TDIClub Enthusiast, TDI Parts Ninja Vendor , w/Bus
nesgarcia -
Automatic/DSG I'm guessing? Do you sit in traffic?
If you are going to do rear brakes you need to get the "Metalnerd Rear Brake Tool" - it is VASTLY superior to the cheaper alternatives or universal rear brake tools. Its made for VWs specifically.
As for pads - stick with a German brand - Pagid, Textar, TRW, those will be the most OEM like. "Ceramic" pads should last longer, so if you can find a set of ceramics those may be a good fit too.
The part number above for pads doesn't appear to be an accurate part number. I show a 5C0 698 451 part number for a 2012 Jetta TDI. There is another pad number, depending on rotor size...what is the stock size rotor for the TDI models?
Automatic/DSG I'm guessing? Do you sit in traffic?
If you are going to do rear brakes you need to get the "Metalnerd Rear Brake Tool" - it is VASTLY superior to the cheaper alternatives or universal rear brake tools. Its made for VWs specifically.
As for pads - stick with a German brand - Pagid, Textar, TRW, those will be the most OEM like. "Ceramic" pads should last longer, so if you can find a set of ceramics those may be a good fit too.
The part number above for pads doesn't appear to be an accurate part number. I show a 5C0 698 451 part number for a 2012 Jetta TDI. There is another pad number, depending on rotor size...what is the stock size rotor for the TDI models?
kpaske
Veteran Member
This thread was immensely helpful when gathering tools to do a brake job. FYI, O'Reilly's Auto Parts rents the universal caliper compression tool pictured above for a $60 deposit (refundable). It worked great on the front, we'll see how it does on the rear when I do them later today.
One point of clarity - the 21mm Hex CDN TDI referred to is just a standard metric socket. I looked everywhere for a 21mm hex wrench (aka. "Allen Wrench") before I realized that I had the 21mm socket all along. Doh!
One point of clarity - the 21mm Hex CDN TDI referred to is just a standard metric socket. I looked everywhere for a 21mm hex wrench (aka. "Allen Wrench") before I realized that I had the 21mm socket all along. Doh!
Ol'Rattler
Top Post Dawg
Just the way Dub calipers are, get use to it or buy a Toyota.
No If you try to retract the piston with a C-clamp, you will just destroy the caliper. The E-brake part needs to be pressed and turned at the same time to retract the piston.
vwottawa
New member
I have a 2011 jetta TDI and the rear brakes are grooved.
I called Parts Source to quote a Rear Rotor and they wanted to know the size as they had 2 listed.
Does anyone know what size the rear rotor is on the 2011 Jetta. I have the highline with the 17 inch wheels?
I called Parts Source to quote a Rear Rotor and they wanted to know the size as they had 2 listed.
Does anyone know what size the rear rotor is on the 2011 Jetta. I have the highline with the 17 inch wheels?
NAZ TDI
Veteran Member
I just went out and measured the pads on my 2011 TDI. The fronts are at 1/2" and the rears are at 3/8" thick. The car has 63,000 miles on it, so I should be good for well over 100,000 miles on the original pads.
What tool are you using to measure pad thickness?
Johnny G1
Well-known member
Usualy should be the opposite, the front wear more than the back, 2 sets of front for 1 set on the back. Must do a lot of backing up??? Lol
Ol'Rattler
Top Post Dawg
Let's see, a tape measure or 6" machinist scale works well. All you have to remove is the wheel.
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Ol'Rattler
Top Post Dawg
Absolutely wrong. On a modern Dub, brake force is biased to the rear to prevent nose dive when braking.
I got 100K miles out of my rears, and at 148K miles my fronts are between 1/2 and 1/3 left.
The biggest killer to brakes is folks that don't understand the concept of down shifting and will coast in neutral down hill only relying only on the brakes to control speed. It's a damned shame that Drivers Ed only teaches folks how to drive an automatic.
Ol'Rattler good point, they don't teach *hit about ***** in drivers ED classes. On a big hill or approaching a stop I will coast all of it in (N) if I can but then if I need to dump speed I do it with the breaks theory being it saves the trans from unnecessary wear, its easier to change breaks than fix a trans. Cheaper too =o I would say the biggest killer of breaks is sprinting from stop to stop and also very short stopping distances.
Ol'Rattler good point, they don't teach *hit about ***** in drivers Ed classes. On a big hill or approaching a stop I will coast all of it in (N) if I can but then if I need to dump speed I do it with the breaks theory being it saves the trans from unnecessary wear, its easier to change breaks than fix a trans. Cheaper too =o I would say the biggest killer of breaks is sprinting from stop to stop and also very short stopping distances.
Ol'Rattler
Top Post Dawg
You're one of those I was talking about. Coasting in neutral does close to zero in extending the life of your clutch and transmission is dangerous and is illegal in most states.
Do yourself and all of use a favor and learn how to properly drive a manual.
Do yourself and all of use a favor and learn how to properly drive a manual.
Left hand don't work like it use'ta could, I learned on a stick and would rather drive a stick, its safer that I don't.
Actually there are a lot of cars that are automatics that slip into neutral when there is no load demand. If they do it why shouldn't the rest of us?
Actually there are a lot of cars that are automatics that slip into neutral when there is no load demand. If they do it why shouldn't the rest of us?
Ol'Rattler
Top Post Dawg
So which automatics do this? Certainly none of the ones I have driven.
Nic (
Buick Encore, Mitsubishi Mirage, Mitsubishi Outlander,The Saturn Astra, Saturn Aura, Chevy Cruze, Chevy Sonic, are all cars that in some variation or another had models with the automatic transmission have a neutral idle feature that automatically disengages the torque converter when sitting at stoplights in Drive—helping to boost mileage in stop-and-go driving.
Oh even Caterpillar got into it with a 777G Off-Highway Truck
Buick Encore, Mitsubishi Mirage, Mitsubishi Outlander,The Saturn Astra, Saturn Aura, Chevy Cruze, Chevy Sonic, are all cars that in some variation or another had models with the automatic transmission have a neutral idle feature that automatically disengages the torque converter when sitting at stoplights in Drive—helping to boost mileage in stop-and-go driving.
Oh even Caterpillar got into it with a 777G Off-Highway Truck
NIC (Neutral Idle Control)
Not V-dubs that I am aware of but the:
Chevy Cruze,
Chevy Sonic,
Buick Encore,
BMW E9x,
BMW N54,
BMW E60,
BMW N52K,
more BMWs
Mitsubishi Mirage,
Mitsubishi Outlander,
Saturn Astra,
Saturn Aura,
(There are more but I feel I have defended my statement sufficiently.)
Above are all cars that in some variation or another had/have models with the automatic transmission featuring NIC ( Neutral Idle Control) which automatically disengages the torque converter when sitting at stoplights in Drive—helping to boost mileage in stop-and-go driving.
I take it a step further by looking ahead and anticipating and begin to slow long before the, stop bar / light / tail lights ahead of me thus allowing me to not actually come to a complete stop, coasting in neutral as to maintain inertia. Some thing a car can't foresee.(yet) However I do not do this in snow/icy conditions.
So long as I (or anyone) is aware of the surroundings I don't see the big problem being "one of those" nor do I see it any different, actually arguably better and or safer than using the clutch on a standard trans.
Example:
Driving a standard trans. Look at all the individual processes or movements you have to do to disengage the torque converter and or down shift. If you slowed down say from 60 to 20 you would be forced to;
Depress clutch, Move the shifter down, shifter over, shifter up. reengage the clutch all of which varies depending on the situation.......we know....
Even sitting at a stop in 1st. with the clutch in, requires you to be paying attention to the traffic approaching you from behind should you have to reengage the clutch at a moments notice
VS.
Driving an automatic;
Tap/slip gear selector up into neutral then down when you need acceleration.
Even sitting at a stop in (N), requires you to be paying attention to the traffic approaching you from behind should you have to tap/slip the trans into (D) at a moments notice. (I tap the break to cause the lights to flash breaking up the monotony of driving for the drivers stuck in a chronic trance.<motorcycle trick>
All that said I really enjoy driving a standard trans. more than an automatic for the connected feeling to the car.
Getting back to your "one of those"/ safety comment, as long as you are not paying attention neither trans. is safer than the other. Hell nor is driving.
I'm just trying to save fuel and wear on the trans. by differing the stopping forces to the break pads which were designed to be easily replaced.
I got 263,000 miles out of a Ford Focus in which I always slipped in to neutral and had Zero trans. problems.
Oh yea, even Caterpillar got into the NIC with a 777G Off-Highway Truck
Have a nice day,
Happy decelerating!
Not V-dubs that I am aware of but the:
Chevy Cruze,
Chevy Sonic,
Buick Encore,
BMW E9x,
BMW N54,
BMW E60,
BMW N52K,
more BMWs
Mitsubishi Mirage,
Mitsubishi Outlander,
Saturn Astra,
Saturn Aura,
(There are more but I feel I have defended my statement sufficiently.)
Above are all cars that in some variation or another had/have models with the automatic transmission featuring NIC ( Neutral Idle Control) which automatically disengages the torque converter when sitting at stoplights in Drive—helping to boost mileage in stop-and-go driving.
I take it a step further by looking ahead and anticipating and begin to slow long before the, stop bar / light / tail lights ahead of me thus allowing me to not actually come to a complete stop, coasting in neutral as to maintain inertia. Some thing a car can't foresee.(yet) However I do not do this in snow/icy conditions.
So long as I (or anyone) is aware of the surroundings I don't see the big problem being "one of those" nor do I see it any different, actually arguably better and or safer than using the clutch on a standard trans.
Example:
Driving a standard trans. Look at all the individual processes or movements you have to do to disengage the torque converter and or down shift. If you slowed down say from 60 to 20 you would be forced to;
Depress clutch, Move the shifter down, shifter over, shifter up. reengage the clutch all of which varies depending on the situation.......we know....
Even sitting at a stop in 1st. with the clutch in, requires you to be paying attention to the traffic approaching you from behind should you have to reengage the clutch at a moments notice
VS.
Driving an automatic;
Tap/slip gear selector up into neutral then down when you need acceleration.
Even sitting at a stop in (N), requires you to be paying attention to the traffic approaching you from behind should you have to tap/slip the trans into (D) at a moments notice. (I tap the break to cause the lights to flash breaking up the monotony of driving for the drivers stuck in a chronic trance.<motorcycle trick>
All that said I really enjoy driving a standard trans. more than an automatic for the connected feeling to the car.
Getting back to your "one of those"/ safety comment, as long as you are not paying attention neither trans. is safer than the other. Hell nor is driving.
I'm just trying to save fuel and wear on the trans. by differing the stopping forces to the break pads which were designed to be easily replaced.
I got 263,000 miles out of a Ford Focus in which I always slipped in to neutral and had Zero trans. problems.
Oh yea, even Caterpillar got into the NIC with a 777G Off-Highway Truck
Have a nice day,
Happy decelerating!